There have been recent clashes between Indian and Chinese soldiers along the Line of Actual Control (LAC) near Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh. Check on current conditions before you visit the region.
Arunachal Pradesh is one of the northeastern states of India. It is bordered by Bhutan in the west, China in the north and northeast, Myanmar (Burma) in the southeast, and the states of Assam and Nagaland in the south.
Although most of Arunachal Pradesh is also claimed by China (as South Tibet) and Taiwan, it is under the effective control of the Indian government. As visitors wishing to visit have to obtain Indian visas, permits and so on, we treat it as a part of India here. This does not represent a political endorsement of the claims made by either side of the dispute.
Mouling National Park 📍 — (humid and wet area) named after Mouling peak part of the Dihang-Dibang Biosphere Reserve
Namdapha National Park 📍 — the largest national park in India, known for its biodiversity and for being home to the northernmost rain forest in India
Arunachal Pradesh was part of Tibet until 1914, when a treaty between the British government and the Tibetan government brought the Himalayan region under British control as part of British India. However, China considered the Tibetan government to be a local government that had no power to sign treaties with another sovereign state. As a result, China refused to recognise the treaty, and continues to claim the region as part of Tibet.
Arunachal Pradesh was known as the North-East Frontier Agency (NEFA) till 1987, when it was renamed to the current name. The current name literally means the "province of the dawn-lit mountains".
The only modern book written about travelling through this state is Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent's Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains from 2017. This book is well worth reading for anyone interested in visiting.
People of Arunachal Pradesh can speak and understand Hindi and English. There are more than 36 major tribes and more than 306 sub-tribes, but most of them know Hindi.
Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit (PAP) to enter the state. The PAPs are issued by the Ministry of Home Affairs, but the easiest approach is to get your Indian visa with a special endorsement allowing travel in the state. Individual travellers are generally granted 15 days (extendable once), but are allowed access only into major towns and sights; travels off the beaten track generally require a registered tour group of four or more people.
Indian citizens require an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to enter the state, which can be acquired from any of the AP Houses in Delhi, Kolkata and Guwahati. The ILP is provided for each of the following sectors:
You can get the ILP for any one of the above sectors.
Arunachal Pradesh has four commercial airports at Itanagar, Pasighat, Tezu and Ziro.
There is a helicopter service available from Guwahati to various destinations like Pasighat and Tawang. The service is operated weather permitting. The fares are reasonably priced. There are no public taxis operating at the helipad in Tawang. If you want to trek from the helipad to Tawang town, make prior arrangements for road transport before boarding the flight.
If you are visiting Bomdila sector, then the easiest way to reach there is by road from Tezpur (Assam). One can then go to Tezpur by state transport buses. From Tezpur, shared vehicles are available every morning from 05:30. It's recommended to use a reputed travel agency to book seats. Requesting your driver to stop at Sela pass during the winter allows you to see picturesque snow-covered views. The roads are good and well maintained by Border Road Organisation (BRO), but there can be landslides in the rainy season.
For first-timers driving by your own in mountainous roads is not recommended. There are numerous rental cars available in almost all cities in the state. The rental cars are generally safe and charge reasonably.
Arunachal Pradesh State Transport Services provides daily bus services between the cities. The bus might get jam-packed sometimes. The prices are very cheap and the journey is safe.
Places to visit around Tawang include:
Tibetan delicacies like thupka, momos or simple and delicious paratha-sabzi eaten hot from the roadside shacks on cold misty days are a treat. Most restaurants in Tawang serve them. A small shack called Annapurna serves delicious alu (potato) chips. The traditional Monpa cuisine uses a generous amount of chillies and fermented cheese which has a strong flavour.
Some traditional Arunachal dishes are:
Getting tea or coffee is quite easy in Arunachal Pradesh. There are many local drinks which include local beers.
Arunachal Pradesh is a safe state. The inhabitants are generally friendly and ready to help visitors. However, there are dangers of altitude sickness for the visitors of the state, especially in the high mountainous areas. You are not advised to visit sensitive places near the Indo-China border. Stay inside your hotel and its premises in the night as going out between the mountains during the night might not be a good idea. The most important, Drive Carefully!, if you are driving in mountainous roads, speeding or overtaking might not be a safe choice. Avoid visiting the state in the rainy season. The heavy rains cause the roads to get really muddy and landslides are frequent which lead to road blocks. All the places are well guarded and the crime rate in this region is very low.