Barbados is an island in the Caribbean region, but which lies out in the Atlantic many miles east of the Caribbean Sea. Its nearest neighbours 100 miles (160 km) west are Saint Vincent and Saint Lucia, part of the arc of the Lesser Antilles that separate Atlantic and Caribbean. Those islands are a partly-submerged chain of mountains. By contrast Barbados has formed from deposits of coral and has a gentler landscape. It's fertile, and is sometimes called "Bimshire" or the "Little Britain" of the Caribbean because of its long and uniquely unbroken history of British colonisation and settlement. It became independent in 1966 and tourism is nowadays its main industry. In 2019 the population was 287,025.
"Bajan" is the word for the people and products of Barbados.
The main chain of Caribbean islands are along the rim of a tectonic plate that is migrating east, throwing up a line of volcanoes. Around that rim formed a shallow sea with a build-up of corals: one million years ago this was uplifted to become the present island, a slab of limestone.
The first inhabitation of Barbados was probably about 1600 BC but little is known of those people. Better evidenced are the Saladoid-Barrancoid people who arrived by canoe from Venezuela's Orinoco Valley around 350 AD. Next were the Arawaks, arriving from South America around 800 AD; they called the place Ichirouganaim meaning "teeth", referring to the island's reefs. In the 13th century, the Caribs arrived from South America and displaced the previous populations. For the next few centuries, they lived in isolation here.
In 1536 the Portuguese explorer Pedro Campos called the island "Os Barbados" ("The Bearded Ones") because the long hanging aerial roots of the island's fig trees resembled beards. Later, Spanish conquistadors seized many Caribs on Barbados to use as slaves, and many other Caribs fled from the island. However neither Spain nor Portugal settled here. The first Europeans to do so were the British from 1627 and, unlike other Caribbean islands, Barbados never passed into the control of other nations as the later centuries' wars played out.
Early crops were of cotton, tobacco, ginger and indigo, worked by indentured labourers, mostly English and Irish. Their conditions were harsh but not slavery, and after several years labour (if they survived), they were awarded freedom, money and land - so a colony evolved. But those crops suffered competition as North American production grew. Sugarcane was introduced in 1640 and proved more profitable and reliable, but demanded heavy labour. Enslaved Africans were shipped in to meet this need, many being Igbo from what is now Nigeria. For two centuries Barbados was a slave colony, as the plantations grew and grew and bought out the other settlers. From 1833 there was gradual emancipation, through a combination of rebellions, anti-slavery movements and laws, and changing economics. The island had been utterly wrecked by the hurricane of 1831 so this was a time of re-building, leading to a pleasant harmony of style in the buildings seen today.
Barbados remained heavily dependent on sugar, rum and molasses through most of the 20th century; the labour was still hard, and employment conditions were repressive. By now 90% of the island's people were of African descent, 10% were a British-descended squirearchy that clung onto all the wealth and positions of power, and ethnic Caribs were very few. But from the 1930s an educated black middle class fought for universal adult suffrage and gradually gained power. Unlike many other Caribbean islands, Barbados never received indentured Indian labourers, though a community of Gujarati Muslim merchants settled here, and their descendants today form the majority of Barbados' Muslim community.
Post-war saw social and political reforms, and mass emigration as England drew in Caribbean labour to run its hospitals and transport: London's Hammersmith and Brixton became the new Bimshire. A "wind of change" blew through Britain's colonies, and the first attempt at independence was to form a Federation of the West Indies. This was quarrelsome and short-lived, so it was as a separate nation that Barbados achieved independence from the United Kingdom in 1966, though it retained the British Queen as head of state. In the 1980s, tourism and manufacturing overtook the sugar industry in economic importance. Barbados has developed into a stable democracy with one of the highest rates of literacy in the Western Hemisphere. It does however have an uncomfortable level of sovereign debt: in 2018 the newly-elected government uncovered shady national accounting, with the true debt being over 1.7 times the country's GDP. Your tourist spending however modest will be appreciated.
On 30 November 2021, Barbados became a republic, ceasing to acknowledge Britain's Queen as head of state. Sandra Mason, the former governor-general, became the country's first president. The tourist and other industries were badly hit by COVID but the island is recovering.
Barbados has eleven parishes which can conveniently be divided into four regions: Bridgetown
The capital of Barbados and its suburbs are in Saint Michael Parish. The top attractions are the historic areas around the Careenage (old harbour) in city centre, and Garrison Savannah to the south which has the George Washington House. The city also hosts Mount Gay Rum Distilleries, Kensington Oval cricket ground, and the bases for scuba-diving and other boat-based activities. There's little accommodation here.
North of the city are the parishes of Saint James, Saint Peter and Saint Lucy. This is the west-facing, most sheltered coast, so it's the best for family beach holidays. Holetown and Speightstown are the two main townships, with many tourist hotels and small guesthouses along this strip.
The parish of Christ Church is a tourist strip of hotels, bars and restaurants, one long traffic jam honking its way through Rockley, Saint Lawrence (the main party zone), Oistins and Silver Sands. This south-facing coast is good both for water-based activities and family bathing. East of the airport is Saint Philip parish: this has fewer hotels, the coast trends north-east and becomes rugged and the seas are stronger.
The parishes of Saint Andrew, Saint George, Saint John, Saint Joseph and Saint Thomas are the least developed and most scenic part of the island. There are lush botanic gardens such as Andromeda, plantation houses such as Sunbury, and Harrison's Cave in the underlying limestone. The hilly east coast is exposed to the full fury of the Atlantic, with big surf, and is too hazardous for casual beach and water sports.
Outlying islands are just uninhabited rocks. Pelican Island off Bridgetown was once a quarantine facility, but it was engulfed by mainland harbour development in 1961. Culpepper Island is a scrap of grass 30 yards across that you can wade out to off the east coast. Some Arawak Indians have claimed it as their sovereign territory, but nobody pays any heed.
<br clear="all" />Most visitors do not need a visa for tourist or business visits. That includes citizens of the countries below (updated by the Barbados government in May 2019 and believed to be unchanged in 2020) but they are likely to need a visa to work or study so those visitors must make further inquiries of the embassy or consulate.
Citizens of the following countries do not need visas to enter Barbados; the maximum period ranges from 28 days to six months:
See embassy website for visa application process and fees. Beware commercial websites that will charge extra for less reliable information.
Sir Grantley Adams International Airport (IATA: BGI), 13.0747°, -59.4925°. By air is the main way in and out of Barbados, so the airport has good connections to North America, Europe (especially Britain and Germany), and the Caribbean region. Many long-haul flights are by package tour operators e.g. TUI or Virgin Atlantic, but these also offer flight-only tickets. Regional short hops are operated by Caribbean Airlines and InterCaribbean Airways. Departing, the check-in area is a semi-open-air triangle with a couple of small cafes and free rest-rooms. After check-in, emigration comes before security, as there are no domestic flights. Airside has a large retail mall with cafes but the exchange desk charges 5 B$ minimum fee so it's not the best option for leftover small amounts of B$. Arriving, you may use the duty-free shop before immigration. You have to fill in a landing card for immigration, and you have to keep the counterfoil for departure. 2019-02-18
Public buses and minibuses run from a stop just outside the airport. They ply to the south coast hotel strip, Bridgetown, and up the west coast as far as Holetown and Speightstown for B$3.5 (2022) per person, but a taxi is the most convenient way to get to your hotel on arrival. Across the road is a little collection of bars and eating places.
There are no ferries between Barbados and the other Caribbean islands. A ferry to Grenada ran 2011-2016 but was discontinued, and there are no plans to restart.
Many cruise ships dock in Bridgetown deep water harbour - check company itineraries to see if a point-to-point sailing to Barbados is possible. The terminal is served by an army of taxis, as well as shuttle "buses" to/from downtown Bridgetown for B$2 each way per person. There are separate arrangements to enable cruise passengers to transit between ship and airport without going through immigration.
Private moorings are available around the island. It's strictly forbidden to drop anchor on the coral reefs, with stiff penalties.
Drive on the left. The bus system is extensive, cheap and fast if you are headed to somewhere on the main route, but a car (or mini-moke) is the only way to see many of the out-of-the-way sights. Many drivers will hold a bus for you if they see you are from out of town, reflecting the typical welcoming spirit. Buses are run by the Barbados Transport Board (blue) and are quiet. Private operators include the yellow buses, which play very loud music, and private mini-vans (white), which are usually cramped and crowded. The two privately run means of transport are often driven very fast and recklessly. All charge the same fare (B$3.50, July 2019). Yellow buses and minivans offer change and even accept US dollars. BTB buses accept Barbados dollars and US dollars but do not give change.
There are also more than enough taxis to take you wherever you need to go on the island for reasonable prices. They do not use meters and it is best to negotiate the price before you get in. However, most taxi drivers are honest and you are unlikely to be overcharged. Be sure to ask the management of the hotel or the friendly locals what the going rate is for a cab ride to your destination.
Renting a car is expensive. Island roads are generally narrow and twisty with poor sight-lines and unexpected bumps. The exception is the ABC highway, which also has several long sections of dual carriageway.
Many of these "highways" do not have sidewalks, so there can be pedestrians on the street sharing the road. Many bus stops are also on the side of roads where there are no sidewalks. Additionally, beware of impromptu passing lanes as slow drivers are often passed by others behind them when on two lane roads. Road signs can be fairly confusing (they often indicate the nearest two towns/villages in opposite order - i.e. furthest listed first), so be prepared to get lost: just ask the way as people are always eager to help.
At most all of the local car rental agencies, a full collision damage waiver policy is automatically included with the rental, except for any damage incurred to the car tires, a testament to the poor condition of the smaller roads and tendency of foreign drivers to miscalculate driving lanes and hit curbs.
Mopeds and bikes can also be rented to explore sites not easily reached by cars. This is not recommended however due to the poor condition of many of the secondary and residential roads. Except for the main highway, all the other roads provide a hazardous journey to the moped or bike rider due to the lack of sidewalks, frequent pot holes, sharp corners and speeding local buses.
Another fun way to get around is to rent a moke (open top car/buggy) available from any number of local car rental agencies.
The official language in Barbados is English, but the pronunciation may be high, fast and hard to follow. When speaking with each other, locals may slide between English and Bajan, which is a creole language based on English, Irish and West African Igbo vocabulary and expressions. Look baffled and they'll slow down for you, if they judge it helpful for you to understand. A good start is always to say "good morning", "good evening" etc, even to strangers on the sidewalk.
If you're a member of a heritage organisation at home, such as the National Trust or RHS in Britain, bring your membership card, you'll get a discount at many Barbados heritage sites.
The local currency is the Bajan dollar, officially denoted as "Bds$" (ISO code: BBD) but usually just as B$ on local signage (and hence in these pages). US dollars are accepted in almost all shops and restaurants. The exchange rate is fixed at 2 Bajan dollars to the US dollar, but hotels may scalp you for an extra 5% or so.
Coins in Barbados come in denominations of 1-, 5-, 10 and 25 cents and 1 dollar. Banknotes in Barbados come in denominations of 2-, 5-, 10-, 20-, 50 and 100 dollars. Two series of Barbadian banknotes are in circulation, the paper version issued in 2013 and the new polymer issues introduced in 2022.
Just as anywhere else, your prime considerations are "Do I actually want this stuff?" and "What feels like a fair price?" Anything else is secondary.
Bridgetown's main street hosts numerous jewellers, such as Colombian Emeralds and Diamonds International. Cave Shepherd department store offers a wide range of mercantile, while Harrison's offers premium gifts, leathers and cosmetics. There are large supermarkets on the edge of Bridgetown. Smaller stores offer virtually everything a visitor or resident might need. The mall at the harbour has a good selection but is pricier than elsewhere.
Barbados has a well-deserved reputation for its rum. Two distilleries are open for tours, and purchases there will be at the best price.
Barbados has a great variety of street vendors. Haggle vigorously. Don't stop until you are at about a third of the original price. Duty-free pricing is available for luxury items such as watches and jewellery, cosmetics, clothing, tobacco, alcohol and electronic gadgets. The shop may call itself duty-free but it's the individual item that you need to check: the price tag should state DF and the amount in US$ or B$. If it states LP, that's "local price" with duty paid. (Of course they may have a cute definition of the local price, to make out you're getting a bargain.) The duty is specifically the import tax that the vendors paid on that item, that they recoup when the goods leave the country. So there's no duty-free reduction for things like food that are home-produced or that don't incur import tax. You need your passport and departure schedule in writing; for most items you take the goods away and drop off a counterfoil at the port of exit. For alcohol you pick up the goods at the port of exit, though surely you wouldn't have been tempted to drink it while still in Barbados.
Almost everything used to shut down on weekends, and visitors had to plan ahead especially if self-catering. This is no longer the case. Clothing and gift stores open until 4PM or so (Sheraton Mall shops until 9PM) on Saturdays; very few are open on Sunday. Many supermarkets island-wide are open on Saturday and Sunday.
On bank holidays (such as Christmas, New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday), most if not all stores and banks and business houses will be closed. But stores attached to gas stations will have limited availability of basic items, and shops at the deep water harbour will be open if cruise ships are visiting. There are a few small family run groceries across the island that will open on bank holidays (or have a side door open) to serve their community.
Do flying fish fly?
They glide. They use powerful sideways strokes of their tail fin to gain speed, then break surface and use aerodynamically-shaped pectoral fins to maximise lift, plus updrafts from the waves. They have to fall back to sea again so it's not sustainable flight. Nevertheless their record stands at 45 sec aloft, 400 m covered and 6 m altitude, well beyond the Wright Brothers' first true flights of 1903.
What to eat? Bajan cuisine is an odd mix of spicy, flavorful treats along with traditional English fayre. So be prepared for meals where fiery stews accompany beans on toast.
Where to eat? See each region's "Sleep" as well as "Eat" listings, as many hotels have good restaurants open to non-residents, both a la carte and buffet-style.
Check your visa eligibility when making enquiries of these institutes: the standard visa-free tourist rules don't apply to extended stays for study or work.
Barbados remains much safer than many other Caribbean islands, but as of 2023, there has been an increase in crime. Be wary of secluded beaches and non-tourist residential districts away from main roads. Solo tourists, especially women, are most at risk. The most common crimes against tourists include taxi fraud, robbery, and short-changing; rape and assaults are becoming more common.
Drugs are strictly illegal, sternly prosecuted, and vigorously marketed: marijuana and cocaine being the main stuff on sale. Sellers roam the beaches peddling aloe vera and other innocuous goods as a pretext to strike up a conversation about "ganja", "smoke" or "bad habits". As a result, many hotels and resorts ban the use of aloe vera, claiming that it "stains the towels".
Camouflage clothing is forbidden for non-military personnel in Barbados, even kiddy outfits or anglers' floppy hats that couldn't possibly be mistaken for army camo.
Your biggest risks are road safety, safety in the sea, and alcohol especially when combined with those.
Climate: Beware of the sun. Barbados is only 13<sup>o</sup> degrees north of the equator and you can burn very easily even if it's cloudy and the sea breeze is keeping you cool. Temperatures often top 32<sup>o</sup> C (90<sup>o</sup> F). Seek the shade, use a parasol, wear a wide-brimmed hat and long clothing, and slap on high-factor sun-block: you're aiming for the zinc-nosed cricketer look. Don't be out in the sun unprotected from noon to 3 pm when there's maximum UV and heat. Allow for the high humidity: it can top 90%, and anything above 60% is unpleasant. Drink plenty of water (the tap water is safe), though on humid days your sweat cannot evaporate quickly to keep your body cool.
Mosquitoes are more of a nuisance than a danger: it's very rare for them to carry serious tropical disease such as malaria. You don't need anti-malarials, just standard anti-mozzy precautions - they get busy after sundown, so spray on a repellent before heading out for al fresco dining. Dengue Fever is nowadays uncommon, and Zika and Chikungunya Virus are rare.
Bajans are fun-loving yet tend to dress conservatively when not on the beach. A bikini will not be appreciated in town and certainly not in church.
They appreciate courteous manners, and saying "Good morning" to them, even strangers, goes a long way to earning their respect. Bump into them on the street, let alone tread on their child's toe, you'd better apologise sincerely and real fast.
The "N" word is a no-no, but informal terms such "B" (short for "bro") and "dawg" are used among friends. Strangers shouldn't use them.
Using your mobile in Barbados will hit you with international charges. You can buy a local SIM card at the airport, cruise ship terminal, or any tourist strip.
As of Nov 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Barbados. There are two mobile carriers, Flow (formerly Lime) and Digicel. Neither of them care to show a coverage map, and Nperf data doesn't cover the island. In general 4G/Wi-Fi is good in Bridgetown, on the south and west coasts, and along the main highways, so that Bajan motorists can yap to each other about how it should be made illegal while driving. There is patchy coverage out in central and eastern parts, so either use the hotel or cafe connection, or put the damn thing away and have a holiday instead.
It means flying, as there are no ferry services. Barbados' closest neighbours, all with frequent flights of 30-50 min duration from BGI, couldn't be more different from each other:
The chain of islands continues north through Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe. To the south are Trinidad & Tobago, and mainland Venezuela.