Bayonne is in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France, part of the Basque region close to the Spanish border. It's part of the triple township of BAB (Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne)- and as a tourist destination it's been overshadowed by the more famous Biarritz. But it has more to offer the visitor, with its charming half-timbered buildings and range of interesting sights. It's also the transport hub for the area.
The town grew up at a point where the valley of the river Adour is pinched, and dominated by a hill. As the chief town of the Basque province of Labourd, it came under English rule from 1152 when Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry II; France only regained it in 1451. Whaling and later cod-fishing were important industries, forging the Basque connection with Newfoundland and maritime Canada. Around 1500, many Jews arrived here from Spain, fleeing the Spanish Inquisition - they brought with them the art of chocolate-making, and this too became a major industry. Around 1700, Vauban enclosed Bayonne within sturdy ramparts. The town was battered and besieged in 1814 as Wellington's forces advanced out of Spain against Napeolon's France. In the 19th and early 20th century, Biarritz was a fashionable seaside resort, but Bayonne was neglected. It revived after 1951 when a gas field was discovered, and the BAB area became industrialised.
The area around Bayonne has a high proportion of Basque ("Euskara") speakers, but in the BAB conurbation only 9% were fluent, according to a survey of 2006.
There's a bus (Chronoplus Line C) every 30 min between the airport and Bayonne town centre, fare €1, 20 min. It runs from about 07:30 to 21:00.
For a direct door-to-door transfer, use Biarritz Airport Transfers.
Trains run every couple of hours from Paris Montparnasse (4 hr), Bordeaux (1 hr 50 min) and Toulouse (4-5 hr). From Spain, take an hourly local train from Hendaye (45 min), which is connected with San Sebastian and Donostia with Euskotren running every hour. For Madrid, trains run up to the border town of Irun, requiring a walk across the border to Hendaye.
Principal autoroutes are
Eurolines buses run to Paris, about 4 per day taking 11 hours, fare €30-40. The bus stop in Bayonne is on Place des Basques, behind the Tourist Office parallel to Allees Paulmy.
Bayonne is on the historic pilgrimage route to Santiago de la Compostella. Routes through Aquitaine converge on Bayonne then there's a choice of paths over into Spain, with way-stations a convenient day's hike apart.
There is an excellent bus network, called Chronoplus — see website for timetables and routes. This serves the three BAB townships. Bus fares are a flat €1, pay in cash on the bus. This ticket is valid for one hour including interchange between bus routes. Cheaper multi-journey tickets are also available from the kiosks at Bayonne Mairie (Town Hall) but cannot be bought on the bus. These include a 10-journey ticket (€8); a seven-day travel pass (€11); and a 24-hour pass (€2). These tickets are also sold at 39 tobacco shops/cafes in the Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne (BAB) area.
Bayonne's charming Old Town lies on the south bank of the River Adour, and is enclosed by grassy ramparts. Town and ramparts straddle a smaller river, the Nive, which here joins the Adour. West of the Nive is called Grand Bayonne and east of it is Petit Bayonne; the quays of the Nive are very picturesque. The Pont St-Esprit spans the Adour to the St-Esprit district around Square Gambetta and the railway station. A citadel commands the river approaches from this side; it's still a military base and you can't visit.
Jewish refugees from Spain in the 16th century established Bayonne as a centre for chocolate-making. The town holds chocolate festivals in May and October.
The city is also known for a type of dry-cured ham known as jambon de Bayonne. The name is protected by European Union laws; only ham that is cured in the city using the traditional method can be labelled as such within the European Union.
Most restaurants are along the Nive riverbank. In Grand Bayonne find:
In Petit Bayonne find:
In St Esprit near the railway station find:
Bars in Grand-Bayonne include:
In Petit-Bayonne:
There's no regular camping or youth hostels in Bayonne; try Angelet or Biarritz. However, there is a temporary campsite for the Fetes de Bayonne, with 1500 pitches on the Parc de Mousserolles.
Central hotels include:
More hotels are strung along the D810, mostly mid-range for business travellers:
The beach resort of Biarritz is an easy day-trip. Take the bus, as it drops you centrally, whereas Biarritz railway station is 3 km out from the centre.
There's nothing to see in the town of Angelet, though the airport is here and some accommodation, and Biarritz's eastern beaches are actually in Angelet.
Other good day-trips are Saint Jean de Luz & Ciboure, and San Sebastián or Donostia. These can easily be reached on public transport. From San Sebastián, the "Feve" coastal railway runs west to Bilbao, Santander and eventually Ferrol.
For countryside pursuits, head north into Gascony and Landes, or up into the mountains. You'll need your own wheels.
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