Bella Bella - unincorporated community and Indian Reserve community

Bella Bella is a community of about 1400 people on Campbell Island in the Central Coast region of British Columbia.

Understand

Bella Bella is the largest community to be found on the Central Coast north of Queen Charlotte Strait. It is home to the Heiltsuk First Nation. Services in Bella Bella include a large general store, Alexa's restaurant, the Koeye Cafe, the Thistalalh Memorial Library, an RCMP police station, the Bella Bella Medical Clinic, staffed by 3 physicians and a Nurse Practitioner, and R.W. Large Memorial Hospital and its pharmacy.

History

Bella Bella is the main Heiltsuk community within Heiltsuk traditional territory.

Hudson's Bay Company operated Fort McLoughlin between 1832 and 1842. A community of Heiltsuk people developed at McLoughlin Bay, south of the current location. When the fort was closed, the village remained.

The village moved between 1898 and the early 20th century to the present site. Heiltsuk oral history tells of a dispute with the store owner at the original town. The store owner had acquired the land that had been the old Hudson's Bay Company fort and would not allow the community to expand on 'his' land – prompting the entire community to abandon the site and move to a larger site – the present location of the village.

This village was called "New Bella Bella", and later just "Bella Bella". Bella Bella was composed of relatively new European-style houses and a boardwalk. By 1903 the new town was fairly well established. The mission was complete with a hospital, mission house and school which doubled as a church.

In 1993 the Heiltsuk hosted an ocean-going canoe festival at Bella Bella. Called 'Qatuwas – the event was an important milestone in the ongoing renaissance in Northwest Coast Ocean-going canoes. Some 25 canoes from First Nations up and down the coast paddled to Bella Bella for a week-long cultural sharing event. A second 'Qatuwas festival was held in Bella Bella in 2014.

In 2015, a crisis erupted over a long-simmering dispute between the Heiltsuk and the Canadian Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO) over the crucial herring stocks. Citing concern for the stocks and Heiltsuk rights, as well as taking issue with DFO predictive models, the Heiltsuk occupied the local DFO office for 4 days. The crisis abated when the remainder of the commercial herring fleet departed and the Heiltsuk and DFO agreed to discuss the next season's management.

Get in

There are no roads into Bella Bella as it is on an island.

By plane

The vast majority of people fly in because of the time saved. However, a round trip is expensive costing at least $550 from Vancouver.

Airport

• Bella Bella (Campbell Island) Airport (IATA: ZEL), 52.1812°, -128.1552°.

Airlines

• Pacific Coastal Airlines, +1-604-273-8666, reserve@pacificcoastal.com. Operates flights primarily in the south coast area of British Columbia with its hub in Vancouver. 2022-04-25 Operates flights from Port Hardy (with connections from Vancouver) once daily in the winter and twice daily in the summer. From Vancouver the total journey (with the stop in Port Hardy) is about 1 hour 40 minutes or 1 hour 20 minutes if flying direct from Vancouver.

The Shearwater Resort also operates a private plane for bringing its guests up.

By boat

• BC Ferries - Bella Bella (McLoughlin Bay) ferry terminal, 52.1381°, -128.1421°. Operates ferries around coastal British Columbia. 2022-08-25
  • Operates the following vehicle ferry routes to Bella Bella:
  • • Between Port Hardy (Bear Cove) ferry terminal and Prince Rupert ferry terminal. Trips stops along stop the way in Bella Bella or in Klemtu, or in both. Crossing time to Bella from Port Hardy is 5.5-6.5 hours, from Klemtu is 3-3.5 hours, and from Prince Rupert is 10 to 14 hours.
  • • Between Bella Bella — Shearwater — Klemtu — Ocean Falls — Bella Coola. Travel time varies depending on stops along the way. From Bella Coola to Bella Bella, crossing time can range from 5.5 hours to 9.5 hours with the shorter end of the time range being direct trips offered in the summer. The crossing between Bella Bella and Shearwater is 50 minutes, and the crossing between Bella Bella and Ocean Falls is 4-4.5 hours.
  • It is important to check the schedule ahead of time. Ferries operate through the year, but not daily. These ferries operate less frequently outside of the summer.

Get around

Unless you bring your car on the ferry, you have to walk around town; which is not difficult: 10 minutes from one end to the other and 15 minutes to the airport.

To get to the Shearwater resort it is a 15-minute boat ride; the Shearwater operates a water taxi which runs every 1 to 2 hours; $5 one-way for visitors.

There are also two taxis that meet all the planes coming in.

See

There are two islands: Campbell Island and Denny Island. Old Bella Bella is on Denny Island along with the Shearwater. New Bella Bella is on Campbell Island. The only way to get between the two is by boat (see above). They both have their own airstrips.

Do

Rent a boat from the Shearwater and just putt around, or enjoy some of the best fishing in the world.

The Shearwater also has packages available; which includes flight from Vancouver, meals and fishing. It is common to see groups of men (generally older) come up on a company holiday/business trip.

Buy

There is a band store in Bella Bella, a grocery store in the Shearwater resort, and several small private shops and vendors.

Eat

The Shearwater has a full restaurant/pub. The other option for food is Brown's dinner in Bella Bella. There's one cafe in Bella Bella right near the wharf with (sometimes shaky) internet access.

Drink

The Shearwater's pub.

Sleep

Your choices are very limited, as it is only a community of 1,400.

• Shearwater Resort & Fishing Lodge, #2 Oceanview Road, fish@shearwater.ca. Salmon fishing and wildlife/adventure tour destination at the gateway to BC's Great Bear Rainforest. Marina and restaurant. Single from $110,double from $125, tent site $20, RV site $40 2018-06-03
• King Pacific Lodge, Milbanke Sound. A fishing lodge. 4-day, 3-night package including airfare from Vancouver, meals, fishing guide from $5000 per person 2018-06-03
• Bella Guest Cabins, 7 Waglisla Street, +1 250-957-8019, bellaguestcabins@gmail.com. Minutes from BC Ferries, the Bella Bella Airport, boat launch access, and boat dockage. Each unit has one bedroom with a queen size bed; full bath/shower; full kitchen (fridge, counter-top stove-top, microwave, coffee maker, kettle, toaster, all kitchen/cooking utensils, etc.); propane gas grill BBQ on the deck; dining room; living room with arm chair & one queen size sofa pull-out bed (+$20); a flat screen TV with satellite dish service; and Wi-Fi. Single or double: Oct 1-Apr 30 $140-165; May 1-Sep 30 $155-170 2018-06-03

On Denny Island there is the Denny Island B&B (10-15 minute walk to the Shearwater) and the Whiskey Cove B&B (20-25 minute walk to the Shearwater).

Connect

Bella Bella has its own police department and circuit court.

Go next

You have to get out the same way you got in; either by boat or by plane.

Pacific Coastal Airlines operates flights up the coast to Klemtu and Oceanfalls. Pacific Coastal does not operate direct flights to Bella Coola; meaning you have to come down to Vancouver and up again. You can always take the ferry to Bella Coola.