Bocas del Toro (aka Bocas Town aka Bocas) is a town in the Caribbean West of Panama. The town has an interesting mix of islanders, ex-pats and backpackers and is the most developed in the region. The town boasts an abundance of restaurants, hotels and bars. Bocas has developed a reputation for being a party town with a number of bars and clubs that sit on the stilts over the water.
Bocas Town is on the southern tip of Isla Colón and is part of the Bocas del Toro archipelago of islands.
Further afield on the island of Colón, are a number of white sand beaches and nature reserves. Bocas also makes a good base for doing tours around the other islands. Other islands accessible by water taxi from Bocas Town include Carenero, Bastimentos, Cristóbal, and Solarte.
There is a small airport on Isla Colón with several flights from Panama City and San José. From Panama City, AirPanama flies to the island twice a day everyday (45 min).
From San José International Airport Aerobell Airlines, Sansa and Skyway Airlines (dead link: February 2023) offer daily flights starting from US$99 each way plus US$26 international departure fee and $12 for a Panamanian entry stamp.
It is possible to take your vehicle on the island using a car ferry. The ferry leaves Almirante port every morning at 08:00 Monday to Saturday (no service on Sundays). Cost per car is $15 and there is an extra $1 charge per passenger. The same ferry goes back to the mainland on the same days at 16:00. If you wish to leave your car on the mainland, there is a secure parking available next to where the water taxis leave in Almirante. Cost is $3 per day.
The town is on Isla Colón and you'll need to take a boat to access it. Boats departs frequently from Almirante. There is no service anymore from Changuinola. Locals pay $4 for the boat each way (25 min). With some haggling even as a tourist you can manage to pay $5 and get a voucher to pay only $3 on the way back. There are three operators, all offering the same service. The one in the middle at the docks (Transporte Torres) is the most inexpensive one and open for bargaining. On return tell them you used them to come to Bocas and at Almirante they promised the return trip for $3 (or $4). But you can probably also try this argument with the other two companies.
Prices without bargaining: $6 one-way, $10 round trip (August 2022).
An alternative is to take the truck ferry which departs Almirante every day at 07:00 and 12:00. Pedestrian passage is $3, $3.50 for a bicycle and more for motorcycles or cars. Arrive early if you have a car. The ferry returns from Bocas at 10:00 and 15:00.
From David look for buses to Changuinola and ask a driver to stop in Almirante ($8.45, 4 hr). In Almirante, get off before the bus terminal at the turn, otherwise it is a very short walk to the docks (1–1.5 km). Many decide to take the taxi ($2), which is why they do not stop near the docks.
Ignore the guys who want to walk you there as this will increase the price of your ticket to the island.
From Changuinola the bus might stop near the dock ($1.45).
From Panamá City are two buses: 7AM and 8PM ($27.50) (August 2022)
From Boquete you can also take a private shuttle for the 4-hr journey to Almirante, and then the water taxi, which is included in the ticket price, to Bocas del Toro. Two companies in town offer the daily shuttle: Reservations are recommended ($30-35). From Boquete they leave at 08:00 from Hola Panama in the Mamallena Hostel, or 09:00 from the Transport Company in Plaza Los Establos on Main Street.
There are a few other companies also offering private buses and shuttles to Bocas from many destinations including Puerto Viejo, Panama City, San Jose and others. To check pricing, schedules and availability, click the link: Caribe Shuttle.
Bocas del Toro is a popular place for sailboats to stop and stay for awhile, with plenty of easy anchorage and a marina, and it is an authorized port of entry to Panama. If you are arriving from another country, immigration officials will come to your boat to do an inspection once you contact them upon arrival, and the crew is not supposed to leave the boat until this process is complete (though you are unlikely to be penalized if you make a mistake). If you do not have your own boat and cannot afford to charter one, it may be possible to find crew opportunities for boats coming here from elsewhere in Panama or the Caribbean.
From Sixaola in Costa Rica you get to pay a $7+1 exit fee and a $4 municipality fee to enter Panama. The border in Panama closes at 5PM local time. The Panamanian officials frequently ask for printed proof that you are going to leave the country again. If you can't provide any such documents you might be required to buy a $14 ticket to San José. From the border there are $10 shuttles to Almirante, or you can take a bus to Changuinola ($1, 15 min) and from there a mini bus to Almirante ($1.45, 40 min).
Bocas town is small enough to walk all over. If you need a ride, cabs are plentiful and usually only cost 60 cents or so to get around town.
Not necessary for getting around the town itself, but water taxis are the main means of transport to other islands or farther-flung beaches. Fares are always charged per person, not per group, and start at $1 (from the Bocas Town waterfront to Aqua Lounge on nearby Carenero Island). Agree on the price beforehand. You can also pay before getting in if you want to make sure to get your change.
Bicycle rentals run approximately $2/hr or $10/day. There is a guy opposite the market downtown renting cruisers for $6/day, you will pay more for a mountain bike or one with electric pedal assist from the bigger hostels. The roads are flat and in good repair inside town. Cycling to Playa Bluff will require crossing some sandy areas, but nothing too challenging. Cycling to Boca del Drago takes about an hour over the hilly, sometimes-gravel road through the jungle.
Scooters can also be rented, for approximately $70/day. ATV are also available and popular.
There are two bus companies that provide service between Bocas town and Drago beach (for the starfish). They run every full hour for $3.50 (2022/08). If you get off a little earlier, it is $1 less (see the price sign in the bus). In case you stay along Bluff or at Skullys, entering later than the town they still demand $2.50. If you are confident, you can argue with them. At least on the way back, you can refer to the price sign.
Scuba Diving. Most operators offer identical dive options at the same price, with the same types of boats. The diving may not be adventurous enough for seasoned divers as most of the dives are fairly shallow (15–20 m) and the wildlife not as rich as some of the more mainstream Caribbean dive destinations. There is also another scuba operator on Isla Bastimentos. They do not hire contract dive masters. All dives are lead by the owner. About $60/two tanks, all equipment included. Certification courses from $199 2019-03-05
Horseback riding. Horses are a way of life in Panama. It is not unusual to look out the window of your casita, and have a horse looking back. Horseback riding in Panama is mostly Western horses and Western saddles. Privately owned horses can vary from Quarter Horse to a mix of Columbian or Peruvian Paso. By breeding the two, you get a larger horse, than the traditional Paso Fino, with the smooth and lovely gait of the Paso. A great area for riding are the beaches of Bocas del Toro near Dolphin Bay'. 2019-03-05
Starfish Beach, 9.40417°, -82.32695°. Although very touristy, go here for seeing starfish. Bring a snorkelling set. The amount of starfish can be very low, maybe you will only see 10-20 different ones. If you are keen free-diving, check out the sea weed area where also other maritime life can be found including lion fish. 2019-03-11
Zapatillas Day Tour. Even though it is very crowded and many boats go there, it can be worth it. Apparently, it also includes a visit to a starfish place with much better sight than Starfish Beach. $30 (2022/08) 2019-03-11
There are plenty of places to eat lining the main streets of Bocas Town. Just walk around and check some out. Expect to pay about $3–5 for a cheap meal, though of course it is easy to find places where you will pay much more. Food carts can be either fairly expensive or pretty cheap, usually depending on the location and target clientele. Specialties are empanadas or fried chicken and patacones.
There quite a few bars in Bocas Town, and all the restaurants serve beer as well. It's not uncommon for backpackers to buy beer at one of the many small grocery stores and drink while walking down the street, though this is probably illegal.
This section lists accommodations within Bocas Town. For more (and quieter) options within a short water taxi ride of Bocas Town, see Isla Carenero. There are also places to stay on the slightly-farther Isla Bastimentos, Isla Cristóbal, and Isla Solarte, still accessible by water taxi from Bocas.
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