Chefchaouen (شفشاون, also Chaouen, Chawen or Xaouen) is a gorgeous mountain city in northeastern Morocco.
It's no wonder that tourists flock here — this humble town is the embodiment of almost every Moroccan cliché. The picturesque medina, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Rif Mountains, is filled with white-washed homes with distinctive, powder-blue accents, and the call to prayer rings out of several mosques around the town in chorus. If you've got a few days to relax from the rigors of travel, this is a good place to do it.
Tourism in Chaouen is also driven by its reputation as centre of the marijuana plantations region in North Morocco. Drugs are widespread and somehow tolerated, but touts trying to sell to tourists are also very annoying.
Spanish and French are most popular foreign languages.
Airports around are in Tangier, Fez, Rabat, Casablanca and some flights go to Tetouan. From there you can take an intercity bus to Chefchaouen. From Casablanca it makes also sense to use the low-priced high-speed train to Tangier and continue from there.
There are frequent buses from Fez and Tetouan and also from Casablanca, Rabat, Meknes, Tangier, Nador, Al Hoceima. Enjoy the sales pitches of vendors who come onto the bus while you wait for more passengers at major stops.
Approximate bus timetable to destinations around Morocco (as of Jan 2017):
Bus station (Gare Routière), 35.16762°, -5.27483°. 6:00-22:00. There are two main bus companies serving Chefchaouen: CTM and Nejme Chamal, plus a few smaller ones. All of them terminate/start from this station. Supratours coaches don't serve Chefchaouen, reaching only as far as Tetouan and Fes. Storing piece of luggage in a bus trunk cost 5 dirham, don't pay more. Bus station hosts ticket offices, basic shop, toilet and a cafe serving simple snacks. 2023-01-17
Getting there/away: there are usually a couple of petit taxis waiting for a customer at the entry, 10 dirham to get to the medina (as of Jan 2023). Otherwise it's 15 minutes walk uphill.
Chefchaouen is compact and easily walkable. This is what many people come here for.
If you are looking for sports or peaceful hiking tours, Chefchaouen is the ideal starting point to branch out in the villages and the surrounding mountains of the Rif with a local guide who knows well the region or just by yourself.
If you go to Chefchaouen by car, there are several small car parks on the perimeter of the ancient medina. Car parks are not signposted nor do they have meters, but are tended by people who would claim to be 'guardians'. The going rate seems to be 10 dirham per day—pay when you leave to avoid paying twice.
Also, parking is possible at these specific places:
The medina is the focal point of interest for most visitors to Chefchaouen. Walking around the town with its whitewashed walls, originally decorated in this style by Jewish immigrants, can be a nice change to the hustle and bustle of the cities of Marrakech, Rabat, and Fez.
Take a hike through the scenic Rif Mountains. There is a pathway leading up into the mountains 📍 just behind the Ras El Ma frequented by backpackers. Don't mind the vast marijuana plantations; the farmers and goat herders that work them are used to tourists and will either ignore you or try to sell you hash.
A strenuous hike up Jebel al-Kalaa 📍 (the peak immediately overlooking the town) is fun, but can take up to 9 hours round trip and goes by (and if you're lucky/unlucky, through) big marijuana plantations. The route is not well marked (with white and yellow), and you might have to trail blaze for parts of it if you lose the trail. Start by following the road up the southeastern valley, from where you'll get a good view of town, and look for the markings up the mountain. Bring plenty of water, and some snacks. There a viewpoint on the way to Jebel al-Kalaa 📍 which can be reached in 30 min counting from the city walls.
A two-day hike in the Talasemtane national park 📍 via Asilane 📍 to Akchour also starts up the big mountain on a 4WD track which goes of in the north of Chefchaouen just after the camping site. At the peak at about 1,800 m is a camping site. There maybe snow even until April, so be prepared for cold temperatures. There are at least two water sources on the way up, so you'll not need to carry too much water. It's about 14 km until the gite in Asilane. The 4WD track continues until the next village from where one has to cross over a small valley, continue straight after passing a tomb-house and climb down the small path to the village of Inezgane. From there, a mule treck follows the river more or less closely and the gorgeous mountains, cliffs and breathtaking views. After a while the path goes down to the river over an ancient bridge and continues north, passing a source (although this one might dry up in summer) and eventually leads to the village of Akchour which has another Gite, but also cheaper accommodation. There are more tracks and gites in the area.
Getting there: see #Grand taxi stand to Akchour, Oued Laou, Dar Akouba for information about grand taxi to Akchour taxi stand 📍. Getting back may be a bit of a hassle, as there are not many grand taxi in the evening. On weekends you may be able to hitch with locals.
Do a 1½-hr hike in the mountains towards the The God's bridge 📍 (Pond de Dieu). After the dam, the path lies on the right side of the river and goes up the hill quite steep. The bridge was formed by the river floating underground and carving its way over millennia. There seems also be a way down at the river, so one can see the bridge from below. Don't try this in spring though, as after snow-melt or rain the river may be unpassable. To left over the river starts a path towards the cascades.
Petit cascades, 35.2389°, -5.1609°. Easy 40 min, 2 km (one way) hike. 2023-01-25
Grand Cascade D'Akchour, 35.21832°, -5.13842°. Moderate 6 km (one way) hike. 2023-01-25
Have a bath in hammam together with locals for 15 dirham (separate hours for men and women) or rent a private room just for yourself for 100 dirham per hour (as of Jan 2023). There are several hammams scattered around medina, one of them - hammam 📍.
All the usuals are on offer in the medina — carpets, leatherwares, spices, metal wares, etc. If you're a seasoned bargainer you can probably get better prices in Fes or Marrakech, but Chefchaouen is undoubtedly a more pleasant place to shop. You'll also find plenty of hippie-wear aimed at budget travelers and marijuana tourists.
Chaouen is particularly renowned for leather artisans, and there are 4 or 5 workshops dotted through the town, whose goods you can find at many of the local stores and in the larger northern cities. Many of the craftsmen in Fes and Tetouan served their apprenticeships here. The choice in local stores is often limited to bags and purses, so if you're up for it take advantage of the workshops where you can tweak a standard design or come up with something entirely your own, even moving beyond traditional leather into snake, crocodile, lizard and more. They can make pretty much anything, from guitar straps and tobacco pouches, to handbags and jackets. It can take a couple of days to make the more complex designs, so head there on your first day.
The local speciality is baissara, but you'll also find the usual staples such as tajine (vegetable stew with goat or sheep), harira (tomato soup), kofte (meatballs) and tagras (fish). The moroccan salad is a salad of cucumber and tomatoes, while salada variada includes eggs. The region is also well known for olives and olive oil, and for goat cheese, which is sold on display in various shops.
Always busy restaurants near the Kasbah (Outa Hamman square) offer tajines starting from 40 dirham of somewhat subpar quality.
Local breakfast includes fried eggs, cheese, olives, Moroccan mortadella, bread and tea/coffee, all for 20-25 dirham. Pretty much any cafe will be happy to serve it.
Some stalls cook pancakes (baghrir) with honey and olive oil or butter, for 10-15 dirham.
Cafe Clock, 3 Derb Tijani, 35.1695655°, -5.2629826°. Cult cafe chain from Fes run by European. It occupies an entire four-floor riad, it has a roof-top terrace, nice atmosphere. But food is only OK, however, this is the only place in Chaouen where you can try Moroccan rfissa. 50-80 dirham per meal 2022-09-01
Restaurant Hamsa, 32 Place Outa El Hamam, 35.1687554°, -5.2626416°. Meeting point for younger people. Great view from the terrace which overlooks central square and mountains. Food is average. From 50 dirham per plate 2022-09-01
Mandala, Av. Hassan II, 35.1680167°, -5.2614896°. Pizza, pasta, salads. Small European-alike pizzeria. OK-ish quality, eastable. 50 dirham per plate 2022-09-01
Chez Hicham, Rue Targhi, 35.1695398°, -5.2616877°. Long waiting time, average food, great view over the main square. 65 dirham tajines 2022-09-01
Alcohol is not readily available but can be found in Restaurant Oum Rabie and Hotel Parador's restaurant. The latter charges some exorbitant prices for alcohol and requires ordering accompanying food. Mint tea is prevalent, 7-10 dirham per cup/pot.
Budget: under 350 dirham, mid-range: 350–1000, splurge: 1000 dirham and over (standard double room).
Accommodation can be tight in the peak periods (mid-Jul to Sep) so arrive early or book ahead in these periods. A stroll through the medina will reveal dozens of cheap hotels, starting from 40 dirham per night for a single. Many of these hotels have roof terraces.
Hotels that are fully booked will sometimes deliberately over-book and try to move you to another hotel (for a commission), as always avoid touts who may tell you your hotel is closed, not good, hard to find, etc.
Dar Antonio, 36 calle Garmata, 35.1695°, -5.26169°, +212 539 989 997, +212 661 895 010. Nice guesthouse right in the Medina. Clean and quiet with a great view on the top floors. Hot water on demand. Shared facilities. Not for people with mobility problems. Double 330 dirham 2023-01-09
Harmony Hotel, 35.1686882°, -5.2643523°. Good value for solo travellers, who pay less but still get double beds. Room 80 dirham per person, 250 dirham double 2023-01-09
Hotel Andaluz, 1 Rue Sidi Salem, 35.168736°, -5.2657357°, +212 39-986034. A popular little budget hotel with a nice rooftop terrace and cool (occasionally damp if on the ground floor) rooms. It's not far from the main road in the medina, most locals can point the way. There is a shared kitchen and guests can use the washing machine upon request. Double 150 dirham 2023-01-09
Hotel Ouarzazate, 35.170070°, -5.263959°. In the medina is a decent choice with a good location. From 160 dirham 2023-01-09
Hostel Aline, Av Sidi Ahmed el Uafi, 2 (on the eastern side of the medina, a bit away from the central square), 35.1687256°, -5.2592700°. A nice, clean place; catch it during low season and you'll likely end up with a room to yourself. Amenities include a big terrace with a hammock, laundry service, kitchen, and 24 hour hot water. The staff don't speak much English. Double 200 dirham, breakfast of a loaf of French bread and jam included 2023-01-09
Hotel Zerktouni (formerly known as Hostel Sahara), av. Zerktouni (just outside the Medina, near Bab el-Ain, the road on the corner with the Banque Populaire), 35.1675030°, -5.2651918°. Nice and clean, perfect for travelers on a budget, in an interesting building with wooden decorations; the staff speak mostly Spanish, and the reception boy is very kind and enjoys as a painter. The Hostel has a terrace (with rooms facing it). 150 dirham 2019-03-09
Pension Cordoba, 35.169401°, -5.261427°, +212 5399-89968. Very friendly staff, nice welcoming rooms and a big and comfy roof terrace. 170 dirham per double room 2023-01-09
Pension la Castellana, 35.1688178°, -5.2629769°, +212 539986295. It has a central courtyard and roof terrace. Room 80 dirham per person 2023-01-09
As Chefchaouen is on the edge of Morocco's marijuana growing region, touts desperate to extract money from travelers can be a serious problem. They can often be quite persistent, however, smiling, remaining calm, and politely refusing (repeatedly) will usually work without a problem.
Travelers hiking in the Rif Mountain area close to the town can run into the areas of marijuana production. While most of the growers may ignore you, some may offer to sell to you as well. While many travelers partake in or even come here specifically for the abundance of marijuana (hashish), understand that it is definitely illegal and heavily punishable.
On arriving in Chefchaouen, you may be met by touts at the bus station. They will claim the hotel you’re looking for is closed or on restoration. Don't trust these at all and insist on going to your planned destination. They will probably try to take you to some cheap and low-quality hostel in the medina - but it is better to find the place by yourself, because if you arrive with touts, you'll be charged extra so they can get their commission. Touts will then insist that you follow them to their house in the medina, and there try to sell you a stash of dope for 300-500 dirham. Refusing to buy is not contemplated, nor safe, if you end up in such a situation, so just say no from the beginning and don't accept their "help".
The tap water in Chefchaouen is fed from local springs, so it's way cleaner than in other places in Morocco and is safe to drink.
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