Sherwood Forest in Nottinghamshire is the last surviving tract of primeval forest in England. In medieval times it was a royal hunting forest – the shire or sher wood of Nottinghamshire – and it became the setting for the legend of Robin Hood. Other attractions around the fringes of the forest are Clumber Park, Rufford Abbey, and the village of Southwell near Newark. The forest surrounds the village of Edwinstone, where they relentlessly market the Robin Hood link. (As they need to – it was a mining village until 2014, when Thoresby Colliery closed.) There are various themed events here especially in school holidays, and visitor facilities. Most visitors come on day-trips: if you plan to stay over and have your own transport, Southwell or Newark are better bases.
When the last Ice Age ended around 10,000 BCE, Northern Europe became blanketed by forest. Early inhabitants gradually cleared areas for agriculture, and in England this process was well advanced by Norman times. When the Domesday Book was compiled in 1086, only about a quarter of Nottinghamshire was still covered by forest and heath. In the following centuries this dwindled further, so the Sherwood Forest we see today is just a remnant called Birklands & Bilhaugh. This medieval forest wasn’t a wilderness. It contained areas of open heath, royal game reserves, and woodlands harvested for timber, fuel, and acorns for pigs. People lived there, few of them outlaws, and major routes criss-crossed the forest.
Elsewhere in England the ancient forests were entirely cleared away. New forests were created, from Norman times up to the present day, but they could not re-create the original eco-system. Sherwood Forest is therefore an SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest), NNR (National Nature Reserve) and SAC (Special Area of Conservation), jointly managed by Nottinghamshire County Council and the Forestry Commission. Its most striking features are the ancient oaks, some of them perhaps 1000 years old. These have a strange “blasted” appearance, as fungal infection has caused their tops to die back, and some limbs are propped up, like unsteady dowager duchesses, to put off the day when they keel over.
About a mile west of the main stand of forest, Thynghowe was a meeting place during the Danelaw era, 9th to 11th century.
Robin Hood is a completely fictional character, but he is one of the most powerful, enduring legends of England. It’s because of Robin, rather than some ancient trees, that up to a million people visit Sherwood Forest each year. See under Robin Hood for a summary of how the legend arose sometime in the 13th century, and the main Wikipedia entry for a fuller discussion. His forest companions are equally fictional. However The Sheriff of Nottingham was, and is, a real official, but nowadays his or her duties are mainly ceremonial.
The forest is best accessed via the Visitor Centre off B6034 just north of the village of Edwinstowe. Most visitors day-trip by car.
From Yorkshire, follow A1 south to A614 (signed “Nottingham”) and follow this to Ollerton. From the south, either leave A1 at Grantham and follow A52 east then A6097 north; or leave M1 at Leicester and take A46 north then A6097 & A614.
The forest is free but it costs £3 to park at the Centre, £5 when events are on. Considering walking in from nearby, eg the village, but please take care to avoid inconveniencing residents.
The Stagecoach Sherwood Arrow runs from Nottingham Victoria Bus Station, dropping off at the Visitor Centre and Edwinstowe village. It takes an hour and runs hourly M-Sa and every two hours Sundays.
From Worksop and Retford the Sherwood Arrow runs to Ollerton, change there for the Nottingham Arrow to Edwinstowe. Every two hours Mon-Sat, only two buses on Sunday.
Some Arrows don’t stop at the Visitor Centre, get off in Edwinstowe and walk 5-10 minutes. There are no National Express coaches through the village: their nearest stop is Newark, but Nottingham is better connected.
Mansfield station 7 miles away has a train every 30 min from Nottingham, taking 30 min, alternate trains continue to Worksop.
From Mansfield take bus 14 or 15 (M-Sa every 30 min, Su hourly) to Edwinstowe, 30 min. Newark Northgate has better mainline train services but lacks bus connections to the forest.
The nearest major airport, with good connections across West Europe, is East Midlands Airport (IATA: EMA) about 35 miles southwest.
But if you’re hiring a car from the airport, there’s a wide choice including Birmingham Airport (IATA: BHX), Manchester Airport (IATA: MAN) and the London airports: Heathrow Airport (IATA: LHR), Gatwick Airport (IATA: LGW), Stansted Airport (IATA: STN) and Luton Airport (IATA: LTN).
Edwinstowe is a small place so walking is the method of choice. Local taxi services will take you further but ask for a quote before travelling. Those staying at Center Parcs can hire bikes there.
Start at the Visitor Centre, opened in Aug 2018, then stroll through the forest at least as far as the Major Oak. After that, maybe see the events at Edwinstowe, but a lot of them are tacky, catchpenny merchandising. Further out are Clumber Park and Rufford Abbey.
Don’t bother, it’s mostly tat.
There are cafes at the Sherwood Forest Visitor Centre, at Rufford Park and at Clumber Park. On Edwinstone High Street, find one Indian and two Chinese take-aways. The pubs listed below under “Drink” also do decent bar food.
As a mining village, Edwinstowe was well supplied with pubs. These are dwindling as drinking habits change but in summer 2018 the following were still in business:
Although there are various B&Bs dotted around the village the Youth Hostel is probably the best deal in terms of value-for-money and facilities.
Southwell is a charming small town near Newark, with a Minster, and Victorian workhouse. The garden of the Bramley Apple Pub is said to be the origin of the Bramley Apple. The town is set in attractive bucolic countryside.
Newark is a traditional English market town with an important role in the Civil War – King Charles I surrendered at Southwell. See the castle and museum, and look out for events at the Showground. Other historic centres within an hour or two’s drive are Lincoln and York.
Nottingham is a modern city, and its castle is disappointing – though for interesting reasons. For big city attractions, the obvious choices are Birmingham, Sheffield and Manchester.