El Chaltén is in the Patagonia region in southern Argentina.
El Chaltén was founded in the late 1970s/early 1980s as an outpost of Argentina to anticipate land claims of Chile for that area. It is still a small town that is best known for being the gateway to Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, two of the most rugged and impressive peaks in the Patagonian Andes, as well as the Viedma Glacier, the biggest one in Argentina. The growing number of hiking tourist has led to an increase in construction and in summer the town is full of tourists.
El Chaltén is also called the trekking capital of the world and offers trails of highly varying degrees. Most tourists go for the easy Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre trails, while more enthusiastic hikers go for the Viedma Glacier trek. Besides that free salmon fishing, pricey glacier boat tours and even crossing over into Chile are possible here.
In general, the town is a budget paradise, considering the free national park and possibility to find inexpensive accommodation—see below.
Note, that hiking and trekking is highly dependent on the weather. Use WindGuru to plan ahead, which most people in Argentina and also the park office are using.
From:
Hitchhiking is highly accepted but competition is fierce. So, it might be better to split up or have a backup plan.
Only by foot or car. The main streets have been paved. Side streets remain mostly gravel.
For most things that are to see here, you will have to hike, see below.
In the centre of town you can also pay to go horse riding with a gaucho guide along some of the major walking trails. The horses are easy-going and well suited to beginner riders.
Salmon fishing is popular near El Chalten, because many fish travel up Río de Las Vueltas back to their roots. It is unclear whether a permit is necessary, but good points seems to be right before waterfalls that the fish has problems to cross, being stranded at its foot. There are some beside the gravel road Ruta 23 out north of El Chalten, one such waterfall can be found here 📍.
A popular trekking area so the trails get very crowded in peak season. A good strategy is to skip your hotel breakfast (self cater instead) and depart at dawn to avoid the crowds, unless hiking in a line with hikers every 20 m is your thing. All trails are clearly marked, and safe water is available from the rivers flowing down the mountains along the trails, so carrying 0.5 l should be sufficient.
If you do not want to buy a paper map, that does not have much detail, use OpenStreetMap, which many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz are based on. It has all trails and camp sites of the El Chalten region, especially the more untouristy ones in the north.
It is possible to combine the Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre treks using connecting side-trails and available camp sites that create a loop. In addition the following trail can be done:
The Viedma Glacier 📍 is the reason why most experienced trekking tourists come to El Chaltén. However, meant by "experienced": 1) reasonable fit, 2) well-considering the weather, and 3) having the right equipment for registration (free) with the park office (especially harness). Inform yourself before heading to El Chaltén what is needed for the (latter) registration and bring everything with you—getting and renting things on site is more expensive and can be a hassle.
Viedma Glacier Boat Tour, -49.39390°, -72.86895°. This is the easy way, referred by most packaged tour tourists, but you will not see much of the glacier, only its end. A boat trip combined with a glacier trek on the Lago Viedma and the adjacent Glacier Viedma. US$135 2018-03-22
Viedma Glacier Round Trail (<span style="color:#615CF3; font-weight: bold;">blue</span>) (Huemul Circuit). Distance: 63.6 km. Altitude range: 1,161 m. Total climb: 2,593 m. Total descent: 2,592 m. Duration: 3-4 days. Grade: Medium to difficult. Recommended: warm, weatherproof clothes, hiking boots and harness for river crossing.
Also called Huemul Circuit Trail, this is a very exciting, but potentially strenuous trail, for which many experienced hikers come here. The harness can be rented for ~6-7 USD per day in town, and one harness is often sufficient per group. In addition, the registration requires that you show a cooker and gas container, although you may be able to hire one. For all additionally necessary information, refer to the park office.
Download coordinates: GPX, KML.
Viedma Glacier Lower End Trail (<span style="color:#22CA54; font-weight: bold;">green</span>). Distance: 55.5 km. Altitude range: 812 m. Total climb: 2,183 m. Total descent: 2,180 m. Duration: 2-3 days. Grade: Medium to difficult. Recommended: warm, weatherproof clothes, and hiking boots.
Registration is not required for this trail, but the trail should not be undertaken when the round trail is not recommended due to the bad weather. A harness could be rented, but there are many people along the trail, which will help you with their harnesses over the lower part of the Tunel River. Otherwise, you can just cross the river (with wet feet) a little downstream were it divides.
You can do the trail in two days, either hiking up to Paso Huemul in the evening or morning. The trail between El Chalten and the camp site is 6-8 hr. Hence, it might be better to: 1) hike in the first day until the camp site, and see the sunset onto the glacier from there in the evening, 2) spend the next day hiking up and beyond Paso Huemul and exploring the region around the view points and even down until the end of the glacier, and hike back to the camp ground in the late afternoon, and 3) on the third day hike back to El Chalten.
Note, on the way from El Chalten, you have to go down a hill right before the Tunel boat station. This hill should be descended inside the farm land towards the mountain, otherwise you will have to fight with plants full of spikes.
Download coordinates: GPX, KML.
A dead-end ripio road (about 37 km one way) leads you to the very remote Lago del Desierto through a wonderful valley along a river. You can do easy hikes and strolls there and enjoy the peace and quiet.
Besides the easy trails there do seem to exist considerable further even demanding hiking trail, which however are not available on OpenStreetMap. So, you need to consult another source if interested. It is even supposed to be possible to cross into Chile to Villa O’Higgins from here (2-3 days). (In case you find additional information, put them here to help others.)
There are three supermarkets in town, the largest and most central of which accepts credit cards. All three are well stocked, but about twice as expensive as the larger ones in the city. Opening hours depend on season.
The calafate berry ice cream, a bit like blueberry but milder, from the ice cream shop in the middle of the town is worth trying. There are two small grocery stores selling food and supplies.
There are at least a dozen restaurants in town.
What better after a long hike in the mountains then to enjoy a good beer. Home brews (rubia y negro) at the Cervezeria. Good food and friendly staff. However, 50 pesos for two beers is a bit pricey.
There are a large number of hotels and hostels in town. Walk around and you will find cheaper deals than on the usual reservation websites indicated (also see below), so long as it is not high season.
Most accommodation accept credit cards, at least this is what they advertise with. However, it is worth checking in advance to make sure that this is the case and the connections are working.
There are several free camping sites in the park, even close to the town.
Cabañas Arco Iris, 77 Halvorsen, -49.33144°, -72.88360°. Not shiny but cheap with apparently free luggage storage. The owner is said to be grumpy, but he is quite clever and is probably just annoyed of all the larger groups of backpackers stealing tableware and toilet paper for their treks. Dorm AR$180-250 depending on the season 2018-03-22
Hostal Las Cuatro Estaciones, 948 Avenida San Martín (at the very northern end of the town, right before the trail to Mount Fitz Roy begins and next to the bakery), -49.3224329°, -72.8941686°. Probably the cheapest option in town, but the staff is not very considerate. The dorms are spotless, but the toilet is not recommended. And unfortunately they have a strict 11:00 check-out and leave property policy. Luggage storage: AR$50 per day. AR$200 2018-03-22
Rancho Grande Hostel, +54 2962-493005. Chaltentravel bus stop, Restaurant 24 hrs service.
Pioneros del Valle, San Martin 9405 (The Caltur bus stops here after the bus terminal.), +54 2902 49-2217. New hostel affiliated with the Caltur bus company. Very clean and comfortable, dorms generally have attached bathrooms.
La Comarca Hostel, Perito Moreno 70 (very close to bus station). One of the cheaper hostels. Friendly owner but with bad ventilation in the dorms.
Hosteria Koonek, Lionel Terray 415, +54 02962-493304.
Hotel la Aldea, Av. Guemes No.95 (9301) (Walk out of the bus station and head up Av. Guemes No.95. la Aldea is on your left after one block.), -49.33309°, -72.88523°, +54 2962 493040, reservas@hotelaltocalafate.com.ar. Very comfortable with excellent service.
2nd-order administrative division
Primary administrative division