Feldkirch - city in Feldkirch District, Vorarlberg, Austria

Feldkirch is a historic city in Vorarlberg, Austria. It is on the border to Liechtenstein and can easily be visited in an afternoon. It is nestled in a picturesque place where three valleys meet and includes a well-preserved old town and the dominating edifice of the ancient Schattenburg Castle. While small, it is the best preserved and most scenic of Vorarlberg's cities. Many people make the mistake of passing through Feldkirch on their way to Liechtenstein or Innsbruck without exploring its wonderful charm. Don't make this mistake!

Understand

• Stadtmarketing und Tourismus Feldkirch, Montfortplatz 1 (Montforthaus Feldkirch), 47.23573°, 9.59781°, +43 5522 73467, stadtmarketing@feldkirch.at. M-F 09:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-12:00. Can offer advice on sightseeing, helps arrange accommodation, and sells tickets to special events and concerts. They have a good free map of the inner city, which is also available outside the office when it is closed.

Get in

Feldkirch lies in the Rhein Valley bordering Liechtenstein to the south and Switzerland to the west.

By plane

The closest international airports are in Friedrichshafen (46 km), Zurich (124 km), Innsbruck (154 km), and Munich (223 km).

By train

• Feldkirch Train Station (Feldkirch Bahnhof), Bahnhofstraße 40-42, 47.240929°, 9.603729°, feldkirch.reisebuero@pv.oebb.at. Ticket counter: daily 06:30-23:30; ticket automats: 24 hr. Use ÖBB's SCOTTY to look up train information online. Storage lockers available and free Wi-Fi in the waiting area. 2016-05-09

By car

From Germany and Bavaria you will take the Rheintal Autobahn and cross at Lindau and continue southward. From Liechtenstein you head north. From Switzerland you have to cross east over the Rhein. From Tyrol and Innsbruck you will have to pass through the Arlberg Tunnel (toll) an incredibly scenic drive that takes you through the stunning Walgau Valley. The Arlberg Pass offers a free alternative but is only open in the warm weather months.

By bus

• Feldkirch Busplatz (Feldkirch Bus Station), 47.23869°, 9.59629°. Liechtenstein buses run from Buchs in Switzerland via Schaan in Liechtenstein to Feldkirch. Fares are cheap: CHF4.60/adult CHF2.60/student (show ID). There are also week-long passes available. The buses accept euros in Feldkirch as well. 2016-05-09

Get around

By foot

The old town centre is small, and easy to walk around. Most of the streets are pedestrianised. There is lots of parking available just outside the centre.

By bus

• Citybus (Stadtbus), Herrengasse 14 (near the Katzenturm and Tourist Information office), 47.238301°, 9.596898°, +43 5522 83951, feldkirch@vmobil.at. Office: M-F 07:30-18:00, Sa 09:00-12:00. 8 daytime and 4 nighttime routes provide good coverage for most of the city and beyond. Schedules for all route can be downloaded here (dead link: August 2018) (in German); a route map is available here (dead link: August 2018). Unfortunately the buses cannot accommodate bicycles. Free Wi-Fi is available on all buses, and at the central bus stop by the Katzenturm. Single trip: €1.30 (adults), €1 (concessions); day ticket: €2.40; week ticket: €8; month ticket: €20; night buses: €5 (adults), €4 (concessions)
• YOYO Sammeltaxi, +43 676-70 999 70. Su-Th 20:00-03:00, F Sa 20:00-05:00; requests taken starting at 19:00. An on-call nighttime 'maxi-taxi' service is available. Call at least 30 min beforehand. Fare calculated by route and distance

Taxi

• taxi4you, +43 5522 84 999, office@taxi4you.me.
• taximal, +43 5522 84 200, office@taximal.at.
• StadtTaxi, +43 5522 32002, info@stadt-taxi.com.
• MontfortTaxi, +43 5522-83434.

See

• Schattenburg Castle, Burggasse 1, 47.236314°, 9.599505°, +43 5522 71982, besuch.museum@schattenburg.at. Jan-Mar: Tu-F 13:30-16:00, Sa Su and holidays 11:00-16:00; Apr-Oct: M-F 09:00-12:00, 13:30-17:00, Sa Su and holidays 10:00-17:00; Nov-Dec: Sa Su and holidays 11:00-16:00. A 13th-century castle, on a hill to the east of the town and impossible to miss. It was once the seat of the Earls of Montfort. Today there is a local history museum and some restaurants inside. €6 (adults), €4.50 (concessions), €2.50 (children 6-11)
• St. Nikolaus Cathedral (Dom St. Nikolaus), Domplatz 6, 47.238136°, 9.598182°. The foundations of the church date to the 13th century. After suffering severe damage following serious fires, it was rebuilt in the Gothic style in 1478; it considered to be the most significant Gothic church in Vorarlberg.
• City gates and towers. City gates and defensive towers of the medieval city fortifications have been largely preserved, and are well-worth seeing. The city walls were demolished at the beginning of the 19th century.
  • Churer Tor, 47.237881°, 9.594556°. Built in 1491 as part of the old city wall. This is also called the 'Salt Gate' (Salztor), as until the turn of the last century salt was stored here.
  • Katzenturm (Cats' Tower), Hirschgraben (Opposite tourist office), 47.238383°, 9.596744°. This defensive tower, built in 1507, was once part of the town's fortifications. It is believed to be named after the canons (Katzen) which were kept in the tower, as the targeting devices were shaped like lions' heads. In the early 17th century the building was converted into a bell tower; the current bell was poured in the 19th century and is the largest bell in Vorarlberg. The bell is rung on major holidays and on Fridays at 15:00 (Todesstunde Christi: believed to be the hour of Christ's death).
  • Diebsturm (Thieves' Tower), Hirschgraben 18, 47.237656°, 9.593158°. Built in the 15th century, this was once, as the name suggests, a prison. The city walls which once connected it to the other towers were demolished several decades ago.
  • Pulverturm (Powder Tower), Mühletorplatz, 47.235431°, 9.596171°. The Pulverturm was built in 1460 and is the oldest of the city's four towers. As the name suggests, gunpowder was stored here. Today the tower is used as a meeting place by a local association.
  • Mühletor (Mill Tower), Mühletorplatz (next to the Pulverturm), 47.23567°, 9.59655°.
  • Wasserturm (Water Tower), Montfortgasse 17, 47.237118°, 9.593727°. This tower was built in 1482, and once had an entrance to the Ill River. This tower now also serves as a meeting place for a local club.
• Vorarlberg Music Conservatory (Vorarlberger Landeskonservatorium), Reichenfeldgasse 9, 47.235233°, 9.595328°, +43 5522 71110, sekretariat@vlk.ac.at. This building is now a music conservatory, but it used to be a Jesuit College. Arthur Conan Doyle, author of Sherlock Holmes, once was a boarder here, and the school was also mentioned in Thomas Mann's The Magic Mountain.
• Tosters Castle ruins (Ruine Tosters / Tostnerburg), Tostner Burgweg, 47.2425°, 9.575°. 24hrs. Built in about 1260 by the Counts of Montfort, the castle has been abandoned since 1616. The ruins of the primary defensive tower (Bergfried) as well as parts of the palace are still standing, and are a favourite destination for hikers. Free 2016-05-09
• Church of St Cornelius (Alte Pfarrkirche St. Corneli), 47.243748°, 9.573847°. A 12th-century Romanesque church, with foundations dating to the 11th century. By the northern wall of the cemetery is a thousand-year-old tree – the oldest tree in Vorarlberg and one of the oldest in Austria, with a circumference of 5 metres. The tree figures in a number of local legends, and was believed to have healing properties.
• Johanniterkirche (Johanneskirche), Marktgasse 1, 47.236427°, 9.596787°, arno.egger@kultur-online.at. Tu-F 10:00-12:00, 15:00-18:00; Sa 10:00-14:00. This former church, first built in the 13th century and modified in the 17th century, is now used as a venue for contemporary art installation pieces. Free
• Kunst Palais Liechtenstein, Schlossergasse 8, 47.237773°, 9.596825°, info@palaisliechtenstein.at. M-F 16:00-19:00, Sa Su 10:00-13:00. Hosts exhibits of contemporary modern art. Free
• Kunst.Vorarlberg, Bahnhofstraße 6 (Villa Claudia), 47.239607°, 9.600188°, +43 680 246 77 05, office@kunstvorarlberg.at. F 16:00-18:00; Sa 15:00-18:00; Su 10:00-12:00, 15:00-18:00. This former villa serves as a venue for exhibiting the work of a collective of regional artists. As of 2019 about 50 artists participate. Free

Do

• Letzehof Buddhist Monastery (Buddhistisches Kloster Letzehof), Im Buchholz 26, Frastanz (Stadtbus 7, or by foot from Liechtensteiner Straße and Duxgasse), 47.229419°, 9.590226°, +43 5522-706111, info@rabten.at. Prayer/meditation rooms, stupa: anytime; tour by appt. This Buddhist monastery was founded in 1982 by Geshe Rabten Rinpotsche, on the site of a former dairy. Resident monks include Tibetans, Mongolians, and Europeans. The monks hold regular seminars and evening lectures about meditation, and operate a small bookshop (daily 15:00-17:00). Several guest rooms are available for those interested in a meditation retreat. Donation appreciated; lectures €10
• poolbar-Festival, Altes Hallenbad im Reichenfeldpark (near the Music Conservatory), 47.234541°, 9.594432°, +43 5522 73467, ahoi@poolbar.at. Jul to mid-Aug. For six weeks every summer this festival offers numerous concerts, including Sunday morning Jazz concerts as well as such big name acts as Calexico, Heather Nova, Tocotronic, Shout Out Louds, dEUS, Kosheen, Coldcut, and others. Additional highlights include cinema, short films, cabaret performances, poetry slams, quiz programs, fashion shows, and discussion panels.
  The venues are completely rebuilt every year; designers are selected via an international architecture competition. Art and fashion competitions also enrich the festival. General admission is free (does not include large concerts)
• Schwimmbad Felsenau (Felsenau Public Pool), Fellengattner Straße, Frastanz (Stadtbus 7/73), 47.227029°, 9.602135°, +43 5522 72221. May-Sep daily 09:00-20:00 (depending on weather). Built in 1903, this is the oldest continuously-operating public pool in Vorarlberg. €4.20 (adults), €3.30 (seniors), €3.10 (youths), €2 (children 6-15), free (children under 6)
• Wildpark Feldkirch, Ardetzenweg 20 (top of the Ardetzenberg), 47.24718°, 9.59917°, +43 5522 74105. Daily. A lovely little zoo where you can see the a big deal of animals who are or where living the alps, including wolves, Luchse, deers, wild pigs and so on. Free 2017-10-20
• Hiking. The area around Feldkirch offers numerous hiking opportunities, with trails ranging in difficulty from short and easy to challenging full-day treks. Many of the trail heads can be reached by public bus. Some of the more popular routes include the Ardetzenberg, Stadtschrofen, and the Hohes and Niederes Känzele. The tourist office has excellent free hiking maps and can make additional suggestions.

Buy

• Frastanz Brewery (Brauerei Frastanz), Bahnhofstraße 22, Frastanz, 47.218442°, 9.637289°, +43 5522 51701-0, bier@frastanzer.at. M-F 09:00-12:00, 14:00-18:00; Sa 09:00-13:00. Located in a historic building, this is where the popular Vorarlberg beer is produced. Brewery tours (in German) are available on request.
• Illpark Shopping Centre, Leonhardsplatz 4, 47.23523°, 9.597373°. Located in the centre of town and renovated in 2012, with numerous shops.
  • Interspar Hypermarket, Leonhardsplatz 4 (in the basement), +43 5522 74189, im51@interspar.at. M-Th 07:30-19:00, F 07:30-19:30, Sa 07:30-18:00. Also has a small restaurant/café, with takeout available.
• Marktgasse (Market Street), 47.237016°, 9.596276°. This street is a proper medieval German street, with its arches and covered walkways, and has been used as the town's central market area since the Middle Ages. A number of shops and cafés are located here, which also have outdoor seating during pleasant weather.
  • Weekly Market (Wochenmarkt), Marktgasse. Tu Sa 08:00-12:00. Well worth visiting. Vendors offer fresh produce, cheese, and flowers, as well as a large selection of food items imported from Italy and France.
  • Farmers' Market (Bauernmarkt), Marktgasse. Apr-Nov: every 1st and 3rd Saturday of the month. Only local products are sold.

Eat

• Braugaststätte Rösslepark, Rösslepark 1 (directly underneath the Schattenburg), 47.235653°, 9.598853°, +43 5522 76543, info@roesslepark.at. Daily 09:00-01:00. Serves excellent traditional Austrian food and beers. In summer outside seating is available in a pleasant garden.
• Gasthaus Stern Bangs, Sternenweg 1 (Bangs district), 47.266277°, 9.54475°, +43 5522 74312. W-Su 10:00-24:00. The western-most restaurant in Austria, offers traditional Austrian food.
• New TomCat, Leonhardsplatz 4, 47.235515°, 9.597394°, +43 5522-71998, newtomcat.feldkirch@gmail.com. M-F 07:00-24:00, Sa 08:00-24:00; Su 14:00-19:00 (in winter; summer opening dependent on weather). Offers a range of innovative and creative dishes, with many vegetarian options. Outside seating.
• Schlosswirtschaft Schattenburg, Burggasse 1 (Schattenburg Castle), 47.2363257°, 9.5994275°, +43 5522 72444, restaurant@schattenburg.cc. Sep-Jun: Tu-Sa 11:00-14:00, 15:00-22:00, Su and holidays 11:00-14:00, 15:00-21:00, closed M; Jul-Aug: also open on M. One of the best-known restaurants in Feldkirch, well-known for their giant Schnitzel and other traditional dishes.
• Verona Due, Schmiedgasse 4 (near St. Nikolaus Cathedral), 47.237699°, 9.597706°, +43 5522 81790. Really delicious and great value pasta and pizza, in a cosy restaurant. Outdoor seating available in the summer. About €10

Drink

In the last few years a number of pleasant cafés have been established, inviting the visitor to linger awhile.

• Café Feuerstein, Schlossergasse 1 (on the corner of Schmiedgasse), 47.237346°, 9.596893°, +43 5522 72242, klaus_feurstein@vol.at. Daily 08:30-24:00. A well-established café.
• Espresso Bar Unterberger, Marktplatz 23 (on the corner of Schmiedgasse), 47.237159°, 9.596324°, +43 5522 85280. M-Sa 08:00-01:00, Su 16:00-24:00.
• Rauch Café-Bar, Marktgasse 12-14, 47.236928°, 9.596506°, +43 5522 76355, info@rauchgastronomie.at. Su-Th 09:00-01:00, F Sa 09:00-22:00. Also has a full restaurant.
• Bunt, Marktgasse 1 (south end of Marktgasse, in the courtyard), 47.2364077°, 9.5964572°, +43 5522 83983, info@bunt-bar.at. M-Th 16:00-02:00, F Sa 09:00-04:00.

Sleep

• Hotel-Garni Post, Schlossgraben 5, 47.237833°, 9.59862°, +43 5522 72820, hotel.post@utanet.at. In the city centre. This is a family-operated hotel. €77+
• Best Western Plus Central Hotel Leonhard, Leonhardsplatz 2, 47.235189°, 9.597756°, +43 5522 74600, central-hotel@bestwestern-ce.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. €82.50+
• Hostel Feldkirch-Levis (Jugendherberge Feldkirch-Levis), Reichsstraße 111, 47.249964°, 9.612709°, +43 5522 73181, feldkirch@jungehotels.at. The 700-year-old building is a former infirmary and has been renovated. Open year round, reception 07:00-23:00, no curfew, free Wi-Fi. €15+

Connect

Free Wi-Fi is available at the train station, main city bus stop and bus station, and all main plazas in the town centre.

Go next

• Rankweil. 10 km to the north and worth a visit, easily accessible by car, bus, or train.
  • Basilika Rankweil (Liebfrauenbergkirche), Liebfrauenberg 10, 47.269984°, 9.643855°, +43 5522 44224, office@basilika-rankweil.at. This church is particularly noteworthy, and was founded as a fortified church in the 8th century; portions of the defensive walls still remain. It is now a pilgrimage destination.
  • Freilichtmuseum Römervilla (Villa Rustica Freilichtmuseum), Kirchstraße 25, Brederis, 47.287526°, 9.611277°. Daylight hours. A unique open-air museum with the remains of a Roman estate dating from the 1st-5th centuries BCE. Free 2016-05-09

Liechtenstein, one of the smallest countries in the world, is only a few kilometres away.