Grand Teton National Park

Grand Teton National Park is a United States national park that is located in the Rocky Mountains, in Northwest Wyoming. The park is south of Yellowstone National Park and just north of the town of Jackson. Grand Teton National Park is noted for its stunning mountain vistas, its shimmering alpine lakes and its abundant wildlife.

Understand

History

In the late 1800s, Colonel S.B.M. Young, the acting Superintendent of Yellowstone National Park, suggested the expansion of Yellowstone's park boundaries towards the south. During the following years, various officials introduced a series of proposals to include the Teton mountain range and Jackson Lake in an enlarged Yellowstone. These proposals were met with fierce opposition by local ranchers, who feared that an expanded park would lead to cuts in their grazing areas. Around this same time, farmers in the region suggested the damming of Two Ocean, Emma Matilda and Jenny Lakes for irrigation purposes. Ranchers became concerned that if the lakes were dammed, it could lead to the destruction of natural resources by way of increased commercial development. This concern led to a key meeting in 1923, when Yellowstone Superintendent Horace Albright and some local residents decided that they could pool private funds to buy up land. This way, they could lock the land away from developers and preserve the natural character of the Jackson Hole region.

Albright was the only person at the meeting who openly supported a national park. The other attendees wanted to make sure that they could continue to use the land for hunting and ranching. As time went by, public support for a national park grew. This support wasn't unanimous, and there were still many holdouts who would not sell their land to the government. Nonetheless, on February 26, 1929, Grand Teton National Park was signed into law by President Calvin Coolidge.

John D. Rockefeller, Jr. became enamored of the Jackson Hole area and decided to help with Superintendent Albright's plan. Rockefeller created a private company as a front to buy land, using the company to hide both his personal involvement and any links to the federal government. That way, local residents would sell their land to the company, not knowing that it was in fact going to be donated to the National Park Service.

When the true nature of Rockefeller's front company became publicly known, it caused outrage in the area. After many legal battles, this controversy was put to rest with a compromise that allowed limited hunting and grazing within the park, as well as the existence of some privately run guest ranches.

Landscape

The Wyoming landscape in Grand Teton National Park is stunningly beautiful. This range often represents the entire Rocky Mountain range in countless photographs, postcards, and imaginations. This section of the Rockies is a wondrous playground for climbers, hikers, skiers, and nearly all other outdoor enthusiasts.

Flora and fauna

Grand Teton National Park has abundant wildlife, but it is most famous for its populations of elk, bison (buffalo), moose and bald eagles.

Climate

Jackson Hole hardly seems the same place when one contrasts the winter and summer seasons. The southern end of the valley averages 15 feet of snow in the winter and often reaches balmy 80 °F temperatures in the summer. Temperatures in higher elevations average four degrees Fahrenheit cooler every 1,000 feet in rise.
Raingear is recommended during spring, summer and fall. Sub-zero temperatures are common throughout winter and demand multi-layered clothing, hats, mittens and cold weather boots.
Vehicles with four-wheel drive or all-weather tires are recommended for winter travel, roads may be closed during blizzards. Drive at or below posted speed limits at all times; moose and other wildlife are often seen crossing roads during the winter.

The first heavy snows may fall by November 1. Between winter storms the days are sunny and the nights are frigid. Average temperatures range from a daily maximum of 29°F to a minimum of 6°F. Ask at the Moose Visitor Center for road closures during blizzards.

During spring mild days and cool nights frequently come with rain or snow. The spring months average 11 days with measurable precipitation. Temperatures typically range from 22°F to 49°F. Valley trails remain snow-covered until late May.

Between the months of June through August the average daily temperature is 76°F, but high-elevation hiking trails don’t melt out until mid-July. Nighttime temperatures can reach the lower 40s. Most of the year’s precipitation falls during the summer months; afternoon thunderstorms are common.

Sun and occasional rain and snow fill the short fall days. The average daily maximum is 54°F while the minimum average is a cool 25°F. The fall months average 23 days that drop below freezing. For a comfortable trip, bring plenty of layered clothing.

Visitor information centers

Colter Bay Visitor Center, 43.9032°, -110.6437°. A surviving Mission 66 visitor center, the Colter Bay Visitor Center provides great views of Jackson Lake. Inside, view 35 artifacts from the David T. Vernon Indian Arts Collection. The auditorium hosts ranger-led programs and shows a variety of park-related videos throughout the day. Visit this facility for trip planning information, backcountry, or boating permits. Shop at the Grand Teton Association bookstore, attend a ranger-led program, or visit nearby shops and restaurants. 2020-06-28
Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center, 43.6534°, -110.7186°. The grand expanse of the Teton Range rises above the visitor center. Inside, interwoven themes of place, people, preservation, mountaineering and Native American Indians encourage visitors to contemplate the past, present and future of this place. Visit this facility for trip planning information, backcountry or boating permits. Shop at the Grand Teton Association bookstore, enjoy the variety of exhibits and artwork, attend a ranger program or watch a movie about the park. 2020-07-04
Flagg Ranch Information Station, 44.1069°, -110.6661°. For visitors traveling south from Yellowstone National Park, Flagg Ranch is the first stop for trip planning information. This small wooden cabin is staffed daily during the peak summer season and includes a visitor information area, small sales area, exhibits depicting the Rockefeller legacy and restrooms. 2020-06-28
Jenny Lake Ranger Station, 43.752236°, -110.722257°. In the 1930s, the Jenny Lake Ranger Station and Museum opened as the park’s first visitor facility. Today, climbing rangers provide backcountry safety information, climbing route conditions and perform mountain rescues. A small raised-relief map features the core backcountry area and other exhibits address backcountry risks. A safety video provides visitors with essential information. The ranger station issues backcountry permits to all backcountry users, and sells boat permits. 2020-08-21
Jenny Lake Visitor Center, 43.751475°, -110.722344°. Harrison Crandall built this cabin in 1921 near the Cathedral Group Turnout as his studio. Today, the visitor center highlights art in the park through Crandall and other artist's work. Visit this facility for trip planning and information. The nearby Jenny Lake Ranger Station offers backcountry and boat permits. Shop the Grand Teton Association bookstore, attend a ranger program or begin your backcountry adventure. 2020-06-28
Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center, 43.626416°, -110.7752284°. The Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center allows visitors to learn about Mr. Rockefeller's vision and his legacy of conservation stewardship. Exhibits engage visual, tactile, and auditory senses through a poem by Terry Tempest Williams, audio recordings of Mr. Rockefeller, videos, photography, and a soundscape room. Visitors may relax in the resource room, attend a ranger program, or strike out on a hike to Phelps Lake. The center does not have a sales area or offer permits. 2020-08-21

Get in

By plane

Jackson Hole Airport (IATA: JAC) lies within the park boundaries, on the west side of the Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway, which carries three US Route designations: 26, 89, and 191. American, Delta, Frontier, and United serve the airport. Some service is seasonal.

The nearest major airport to the park is Salt Lake City International Airport (~6h drive away).

By car

From the north, U.S. Highways 89, 191 and 287 share the same road into the park via Yellowstone National Park. This route is closed from November to April due to snow.

From the south, U.S. Highways 26, 89 and 191 share a road from Jackson.

From the east, U.S. 26 connects to Dubois.

From the west, Grassy Lake Road, a gravel road, connects Ashton, Idaho, to U.S. 89 near the north end of the park. This route is closed during the winter.

Driving Teton Pass, going from Sheridan over to Idaho, is treacherous. It has a steep grade up and down, wide curves, and you can easily miss a turn and drive off if you take your eyes off the road or the sun gets in your eyes.

By foot

There are an extensive number of trails entering the park on all sides including the 3100 mile long Continental Divide Trail.

Fees and permits

All vehicles and individuals entering the park must pay an entrance fee that is valid for seven days and allows unlimited re-entry for the week. Entrance fees as of 2020 are:

$20 - Hiker/Biker
$30 - Motorcycle
$35 - Private Vehicle
$70 - Grand Teton Annual Pass

While in the past a single entry fee allowed entry to both Grand Teton and Yellowstone, separate entry fees are now charged for each park.

Grand Teton National Park is a bit curious in that the ranger stations where you pay the entry fees lie fairly deep within the park. This essentially means that sections of the park can be accessed for free, including Jackson Hole Airport.

Get around

Most visitors to the park drive around, because of the distances involved. Some hardy souls bike or hike.

See

Overlooks

There are turnouts and scenic overlooks throughout the park which offer a good view of Grand Teton's many mountains. Here are just a few highlights:

Oxbow Bend, 43.8627190°, -110.5488182°. Besides the view of Mt. Moran, many types of birds can be seen here
Cathedral Group turnout, 43.789444°, -110.713333°. This turnout offers a great view of the three highest peaks in the Teton range: Teewinot, the Grand Teton and Mt. Owen
Teton Glacier turnout, 43.71302°, -110.72804°. This turnout highlights the largest glacier in the park.
Snake River Overlook, 43.75362°, -110.62416°. Ansel Adams took a famous photograph of the Tetons from this site.
Schwabacher's Landing, 43.7291°, -110.6617°. They lead to nice views of the Tetons and their reflections in the Snake River.
Signal Mountain, 43.8489°, -110.567°. A fairly narrow paved spur road climbs to a parking area, then a very short walk to the summit gives an excellent 360 degree view of Jackson Hole.

Other sights

Besides the mountains, there are other attractions worth seeing:

Menor's Ferry, 43.6583°, -110.708°. This is a reconstruction of an 1890s ferry that crossed the Snake River.
Chapel of the Transfiguration, 43.660111°, -110.715333°, +1 307 733-2603. Holy Communionː Sundays 8AM & 10 AM (Memorial Day-Sept.). This Epicopalian log cabin chapel, in a meadow near Moose Junction on Teton Park Road, has a view of the mountains through an altar window. There are also stained glass windows that depict the mountainous landscape. 2020-08-20
Chapel of the Sacred Heart, 43.845291°, -110.603004°, +1 307 733-2516. This Catholic chapel, near Jackson Lake Junction, has a rustic feel with its log cabin construction. 2020-08-20

Do

Barker-Ewing Grand Teton Park Float Trips, PO Box 100, Moose, WY 83012, 43.65562°, -110.7158°. 10-mile scenic float trips on the Snake River within Grand Teton National Park. $70 adults/$40 children
Hidden Falls hike, 43.7635°, -110.764°. A worthwhile and fun activity is to see by Jenny Lake. You can hike 2.5 miles to the falls and take a boat ride back ($7 one way, $10 round trip). The falls and whitewater is spectacular as it makes its mad dash down to Jenny Lake. Be sure to be on the lookout for rock climbers near the falls. Beyond Hidden Falls the hiking trail continues with a climb up to Inspiration Point which affords a spectacular view over Jenny Lake and Jackson Hole. After another climb the trail flattens out and heads west along highly scenic Cascade Canyon. Eventually the trail reaches Lake Solitude.
Paintbrush Canyon hike, 43.8035°, -110.745°. Paintbrush Canyon hike is one of the most rewarding canyon hikes in Grand Teton. The trailhead is at String Lake, just north of Jenny Lake. The hike from the trailhead to Paintbrush Canyon all the way to Holly Lake is 12.4 miles round trip and the last couple miles is strenuous.The total elevation gain is 2,749 ft. 2019-11-06
Leigh Lake hike, 43.8159°, -110.754°. Just north of Jenny Lake Lodge, this hike follows the shoreline of String Lake before arriving at Leigh Lake after about a mile. Leigh Lake offers crystal clear waters and reflecting views of the Tetons. As with most hikes in the area, beware of the overwhelming presence of mosquitoes if you plan to do this hike in the summer.

Buy

Eat

Colter Bay Village

John Colter Cafe Court, 43.90311°, -110.64151°, +1 307-543-2811. Has Mexican and American fare. It's quick and decent.
Chuckwagon Restaurant. Nice sit down dinner type of restaurant. They have breakfast buffet ($7.95 for cold $11.95 for cold and hot). Drinks ordered charge extra (e.g. orange juice $2.50, Latte $3.65ish)

Jackson Lake Lodge

Pioneer Grill, 43.8774°, -110.57741°, +1 307-543-2811. Offers counter service with light meals, snacks and soda fountain treats for breakfast, lunch and dinner, open daily 6AM-10:30PM. Service is not very quick and the food is not great, but it's open all the time.

Drink

Sleep

Due to the political deals which made Grand Teton National Park a reality, a mix of concessionaire lodging, private guest ranches and camping is available within the park. Apart from the in-park accommodations, Jackson is the closest town with many lodging options.

Lodging

Colter Bay Village, 43.9042°, -110.641°, +1 307 543-2811. Open late May to late September. Facilities range from basic tent cabins to cabins with private baths. Budget to midrange prices. The tents have 4 bunk beds outfitted with decent sleeping pads, but you'll need to provide your own sleeping bag.
Jackson Lake Lodge, 43.8775°, -110.576667°, +1 307 543-2811. Open from late May to early October. Large hotel with on-site restaurants and heated outdoor pool. Many mountain views. Midrange to pricey for this area.
Jenny Lake Lodge, 43.782718°, -110.724791°, +1 307 733-4647. Accessible via North Jenny Lake Junction off of Teton Park Road. Open early June to early October. Upscale to luxurious cabins and suites with on-site restaurant. Expensive.
Teton Mountain Lodge, 3385 Cody Lane Teton Village, 43.58667°, -110.83002°, +1 307-201-6066. PO Box 564, Teton Village. A slope-side mountain resort in Jackson Hole, Wyoming that offers rustic lodge rooms and suites. This luxury resort features a luxury spa, extensive meeting facilities, a variety of ski services and fine dining at Cascade Grill House & Spirits.
Signal Mountain Lodge & Marina, 1 Inner Park Rd, Moran, 43.8433°, -110.611°, +1 307 543-2831. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. 2020-01-05

Camping

Headwaters Campground and RV Park at Flagg Ranch, 44.10518°, -110.668538°. Open May-Sept. 131 sites, 97 sites with electrical hookups. 114 sites can be reserved in advance, 17 sites are first-come, first-served. This campground has facilities for both tent campers and RVs. Located within the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway, Flagg Ranch is only two miles south of Yellowstone and five miles north of Grand Teton. Wilderness surrounds the Headwaters development. The upper reaches of the Snake River flow through meadows mixed with open conifer forest. The Yellowstone Plateau rises to the north and Huckleberry Mountain to the east. 2020-06-28
Lizard Creek Campground, 44.004062°, -110.688427°. Open May-Sept. 60 sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. Usually fills by about 2PM. Vehicle size limited to 30 feet. A less heavily developed campground with sites in the spruce and fir forest. One side of the campground is adjacent to and slightly above Jackson Lake. This rustic campground is in a remote park of Grand Teton National Park. The campground is 11 miles south of Yellowstone and eight miles north of Colter Bay Village providing easy access to both parks. 2020-06-28
Colter Bay Campground, 43.907939°, -110.64052°. Open May-Sept. 346 sites, 11 group sites, 13 sites with electrical hookups. 11 sites can be reserved in advance, 335 sites are first-come, first-served. This large campground is in a lodgepole pine forest near Colter Bay Village. While not on the shores of Jackson Lake, a short stroll leads to a spectacular view of Mount Moran and the northern Teton Range. Trailer dump station, showers, and laundry nearby. Usually fills by about noon. 2020-06-28
Signal Mountain Campground, 43.840769°, -110.615209°. Open May-Sept. 81 sites, 25 sites with electrical hookups. All sites are first-come, first-served. Usually fills by about 10AM. Signal Mountain offers a mix of spruce and fir trees, hillsides, and lake and mountain views. Adjacent to Signal Mountain Lodge and marina with a camp store and amenities close by. Sites are generally small and intimate. The campground accepts both tents and smaller RVs (up to 30 feet total length). The developed area offers a wide variety of services and amenities including lodging, restaurants, showers, laundry, dump station, and marina. Maximum stay is 14 nights. 2020-06-28
Jenny Lake Campground, 43.753312°, -110.719776°. Open May-Sept. 59 tent-only sites. All sites are first-come, first-served. This is the park's most popular campground and is generally full by 8AM. Sites are in among the evergreens and glacial boulders a short distance from Jenny Lake. Only one vehicle, less than 14 feet long, is permitted per site. Trailers, campers and generators are prohibited. The campground straddles a glacial moraine covered with an open forest of lodgepole pine, subalpine fir and Douglas fir. Maximum per site is two tents, one vehicle, and six guests for up to 7 nights. 2020-06-28
Gros Ventre Campground, 43.616492°, -110.667165°. Open May-Sept. 300 sites, 5 group sites, 36 sites with electrical hookups. 5 sites can be reserved in advance, 295 sites are first-come, first-served. The park's largest campground is in the southeast part of the park, closest to the town of Jackson. Generally fills in the evening, if at all. The campground lies along the Gros Ventre River with a mix of sites in sagebrush, beneath cottonwoods and adjacent to but a short distance from the river. If you are arriving in the afternoon of a busy day, just pull in and seek a better site the next morning. Some sites offer views of the Grand Teton and Blacktail Butte. Wildlife including bison, moose and mule deer frequent the area. Maximum stay is 14 nights. $30 Campsite with vehicle, $31 Group campsites, $55 Campsite with electric hookup (2020 rates) 2020-06-28

Backcountry

All backcountry camping requires a permit. These permits are free when applied for in person, on a first-come, first-serve basis. Permits can be obtained at the Moose and Colter Bay visitor centers, and at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. People who wish to climb mountains must apply at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.

Requests for advance reservations are accepted from January 1st to May 15th. Send the request by regular mail, fax, or in person. Include your name, address, phone number, number of people, and preferred campsites and dates. Be sure to include alternatives. Requests are processed in the order received. Requests may be faxed to +1 307 739-3438 or mailed to:

Grand Teton National Park Backcountry Permits PO Box 170 Moose, Wyoming 83012

A non-refundable service fee of $15 will be charged for each reservation (fee is per trip, not per person). Put credit card information directly on the fax, or mail a check made payable to the National Park Service. If no payment is received with your request, you will be billed. Only one-third of the sites are reserved in advance, leaving two-thirds available for walk-in reservations.

Stay safe

The weather can change rapidly in this mountainous region. Temperatures can plummet with little advance warning. Lightning is a real danger. Watch the skies, and if you hear thunder, take shelter within a structure or lower your profile to the sky.

Go next

Yellowstone National Park — The world's largest concentration of geysers, hot springs and other geothermal features is a short drive to the north from Grand Teton National Park on U.S. 89/191/287. Yellowstone also has bison, elk, antelope and bears. Admission to Grand Teton also allows entry into Yellowstone, but be prepared to show your pass at the entrance gate.

Related: United States National Parks

Grand Teton National Park - United States National Park in northwestern Wyoming