Hierve el Agua - waterfall

Hierve el Agua is set of natural rock formations in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, Mexico, that resemble cascades of water.

Understand

Hierve el Agua (Spanish for "the water boils") consists of several natural rock formations that resemble cascades of water due to the accumulation of minerals deposited by spring water that has flowed down the rocks over thousands of years. It is one of only a few calcified waterfalls in the world.

Due to ongoing land disputes between the government and indigenous locals, the site is occasionally closed for extended periods of time. It is therefore wise to check its status with local sources (hotels, tour operators) prior to undertaking your excursion.

Get in

By car

From Oaxaca - Drive towards Mitla on road 190 and Crucero (a small town close to San Pablo Villa de Mitla) there you'll see a gas station on your left and ahead an intersection. The signs direct you to the toll road 179 which is the easy fastest way. You can also go around the toll road which is 10 min longer, take right in the intersection towards Mitla and then a left on the bridge to San Pablo Villa de Mitla cross the whole town on the main road and just follow the signs. On both options you'll get to a dirt road going through small villages until you get to a small gate with a guy that will charge you M$10 to use the access road to the park.

• A shorter way that avoid all tolls requires 4WD vehicle - drive to San Pablo Villa de Mitla, 4 km (2.5 miles) from the entrance there is a road to your right called De Independencia towards Xaagá. From the southeast corner of this small village there is a nice dirt road through the mountains that will take you directly to Hierve el Agua. Better to ask the locals in Xaagá for direction to that road, once you are on that road there are no more turns.

By public transport

Go by bus or colectivo to Mitla and there change for another colectivo to Hierve el Agua. To go to Mitla, you can take the bus or colectivo at the bus stop on the main road east from the baseball stadium (Estadio Eduardo Vasconcelos), next to McDonald's. M$20 for the bus, M$50 for the colectivo (Feb 2023). Another option is to take the colectivo at the bus stop in front of the Coppel Periférico department store (on the main road heading eastwards), located south from the centre. Take note that the colectivo is a normal passenger car (like taxi) but it fits 5 passengers (2 people squeeze on the front seat so secure the seat at the back if you can). When you get to Mitla, you just transfer to another colectivo to Hierve el Agua. This time it is a pickup fitting up to 12 people. Be prepared for a crazy bumpy ride, especially for those sitting on the benches at the back. The cost is between M$75 and M$100 one way depending on how many people are aboard (Feb 2023). The colectivos are running quite frequently, always when they get full enough.

Fees and permits

The main entrance fee for the park is M$50 per person. There is also an unofficial 'road maintenance' fee of M$20 per person (not per car) charged by the locals about 1km before the park entrance (Feb 2023).

Get around

The best way to get around the park is by walking. The walking paths are easy to follow, though there are many steps and bumpy rocks.

See

When walking around the site you will see the springs and some ancient canals built by the Zapotecs as many as 2500 years ago for irrigation. If you go for a walk beneath the waterfalls, you will see some amazing rock formations and flora.

Do

• Hiking - There is a nice hiking loop that goes below the waterfalls and back up. This hike allows you to see the waterfalls from below which reveals some amazing rock formations. The full loop takes around 45 minutes to complete and is highly recommend. Warning: trail is in poor condition as of November 4, 2018- do not attempt unless you're comfortable with washed out trails, vertical climbs and navigating flooded/muddy surfaces.

• Swimming - In the summer some people go swimming in the pools however some signs written in Spanish say you cannot swim.

Eat

There are a few food stalls selling Mexican food at the site.

Drink

There are a couple of vendors selling refreshing drinks at the site including one that serves a highly recommended Piña loca with fresh pineapple, mezcal and chilli.

Sleep

Camping - it is possible to camp inside the site for M$40 per person and get a chance to explore it on sunset. Arrive before 19:00 and ask at the entrance gate for instructions.