Humahuaca is a town in the province of Jujuy, Argentina, adjacent to the spectacular Quebrada de Humahuaca on the main road from Argentina into Bolivia. Humahuaca is located up in the mountains at 3,000 meters above sea level, and has a population of a little over 10,000. A dusty ranching center surrounded by acres of cactus and spectacularly colorful mountains, Humahuaca looks like it should be a set for a wild west movie. The town has a bunch of hostels and campgrounds and is a popular destination for backpackers.
The Quebrada de Humahuaca was the first part of Argentina to be explored and settled by the Spaniards, for it provided a connecting route to the more temperate regions further south around Salta and Cordoba where supplies of food and draft animals could be found for the silver mines at Potosi, the gold mines at Oruro and other mining settlements in Upper Peru, now Bolivia. The town was a stopping place along that route before beginning the difficult climb to the Altiplano. Later Humahuaca was a central place for the revolutionary activity that eventually led to the creation of modern Argentina. Humahuaca was also a station on the now defunct railway that connected Bolivia to Buenos Aires, and its wild west aspect will remind many North Americans of some of the towns of Arizona or New Mexico. The area is arid due to the mountains, which block rain clouds.
This region in the north of Argentina has been inhabited for thousands of years and was part of the Inca empire. Humahuaca is named after the ancient people who lived here: the Omaguacas. One of the attractions is the carnival, which is visited by locals and foreign visitors. It is eight days of colourful costumes, masks and music. The “comparsas” organize the celebrations with food, traditional drinks and dances.
There is a tourist office in the Cabildo on the main square, but it keeps very limited hours. Tourist information is also theoretically available at the bus station. Hotel proprietors are excellent information sources.
Most buses between San Salvador de Jujuy and the town of La Quiaca on the Bolivian border stop at Humahuaca, and through buses to and from Salta are also available at the small and fairly informal bus station 📍 a few blocks SW of the center of town. Buses are also available to and from smaller towns in the area such as Uquía and Purmamarca.
The bus station has luggage storage (pay by the day, AR$20 for small pieces of luggage, AR$40 for large). It also has food for sale and toilets.
The town is too small for any transport other than walking to be necessary.
The center of the town is an attractively whitewashed Spanish colonial area. The church, now a cathedral, is well worth a visit.
Monumento de la Independencia, -23.204019°, -65.350611°. Huge statue crowning a small rise just west of the center and reached by climbing a long flight of steps. At the top there is a nice view of the Rio Grande valley and the town center not marred by the statue. There is also an adobe belfry and several cactus plants, perhaps the most photographed site in northern Argentina. 2017-11-28
Iglesia de la Candalaria y San Antonio, -23.204023°, -65.349005°. A colonial-era foundation with an altarpiece dating to the late 17th century. Despite its small size, the church is a cathedral, one of the smallest churches to serve that function. It's sometimes open for visitors to come in and look around. It has lots of side rooms full of religious items, and a gift shop. 2017-11-28
Cabildo, -23.204107°, -65.348535°. Municipal building with an old clock. When it strikes noon every day a statue of San Francisco Solano slowly comes out like a cuckoo clock. 2017-11-28
Cementerio San Antonio, -23.204080°, -65.351840°. 07:00–18:00 daily. 2017-11-29
Torre de Santa Barbara, -23.204370°, -65.350269°. A small military watch tower built in 1600. 2017-11-29
For withdrawing money, the only bank in town is Macro 📍 on the central plaza, part of the RedBrou network and charging about AR$200 for each withdrawal.
There exists no exchange office and Macro does exchange only for customers. Nevertheless, you can ask (artesanal) shops in front of the bank, the optician at the corner near the Giramundo Hostel or the ticket sellers at the bus station. It is kind of illegal but people in town know the terrible situation and can be trusted.
There are many small shops in the center of town selling clothes, jewelry, bags, and other tourist trinkets, as well as a daily handicrafts market on the steps leading up the hill to the monument. Most of the items for sale will be familiar to anyone who has traveled in the central Andean region, though there are a few artisans making jewellery and other items in more modern styles.
Humahuaca is well supplied with small restaurants offering a range of types of food. Recommended are
Mostly the restaurants also serve alcohol, and there are few places that are strictly bars.
Due to its relatively isolated location in the mountains, internet is slow in Humahuaca. Hostels and some restaurants have WiFi, but don't get your hopes up.
The post office 📍 is on Buenos Aires, at the northwest corner of the main plaza.
2nd-order administrative division
Primary administrative division