Kelimutu is a volcano on the island of Flores in Indonesia. Kelimutu is Keli=Mount and Mutu=Boiling means mount is always active. It is a good base for a trip to the coloured craters of the volcano. There are three craters which are usually dark red, green and light green, but the colours are not fixed and depend on the activities of the volcano, so the colour changes from lighter or darker. The similar Kawah Putih (White Crater) near Ciwidey on the island of Java has only one lake, with light green to white colour.
Airplanes from Denpasar to Maumere and Ende are limited. The ticket price is more than Rp 1 million to more than Rp 2 million for one way trip.
Buses from Bajawa (3-4 hr, Rp 80,000) start at 06:00. Gunung Mas runs 12-seater "Travel Bus" from Ruteng to Kelimutu (continuing to Maumere) at 07:00 and 13:30-14:00. Your accommodation may be able to arrange a "Travel" shared car for Rp 100,000 per person (as of Nov 2018).
From Ende there are more options. Public cars (2 hr, Rp 40,000), Toyota Kijang are the normally the most comfortable option. Bemos (Rp 20,000) and buses (Rp 30,000) also ply the route in 2½ hr. If you're feeling adventurous ojeks will take you there for Rp 100,000 letting you make your way in your own pace and stop for photos along the very scenic route.
From Maumere (3-4 hr) there is the same plethora of buses (Rp 30,000) and public cars (Rp 50,000), just ask at your hotel.
From Riung, the public bus to Ende (Rp 50,000) leaves at 06:00 and you can catch a bus to Kelimutu from there.
Your hotel can arrange transport for you in the public cars, but the downside is that the car will save a seat for you from their start in Maumere/Ende, so you have to pay the price of the full route even though you only get on in Kelimutu. Given that enough people get off in Kelimutu, it is better to just flag a car/bus in Kelimutu when you are ready to leave. It might take you an hour to do so, but there is also no guarantee that the car your hotel arranges for you will arrive at a specific time. This is Indonesia.
The ubiquitous ojek is never far away. Depending on your guesthouse's proximity to the national park, ojeks are between Rp 25,000-35,000 (1 way) for a ride up to see the sunrise at 04:30. It's best to walk back since it's a nice walk, and there's nothing worse than having an eager ojek driver pulling at you to leave the beautiful lakes just as the light is getting perfect for that moment.
You can rent a motorbike at many places around town for Rp 100,000 for the day.
The cars licensed to carry public transport passengers are the ones with yellow license plates. (However, it seems everyone is willing to stop and let you on for a price).
Some hikers sometimes hike down from Kelimutu to Ende on foot. This is not so difficult, because the hike goes down and the forest is light.
Not far from Kelimutu (about 5 km in the Ende direction), the big fruit and vegetable market is where the villagers sell the produce from their gardens. Everything is fresh, tasty and picked daily.
Ikat sarongs and scarfs woven by the local women in the surrounding villages are easy to find. They come in 2 qualities, natural dye and chemical dye. If you don't know the difference, opt for the cheaper chemical dye.
Besides the guesthouses, there are several good restaurants around Kelimutu offering western and local menus. And of course a couple of warungs peddling the cheap and tasty Bakso and Soto Ayam.
Try the traditional Moni dinner offered by a young local called Ivan, the son of the owner of "Marias Inn" guesthouse - he will do vegetarian on request.
Accommodation in Kelimutu is plentiful, although fairly spread out over 2 km along the main road. Prices are per room, and all have private bathrooms with western toilets. This lists accommodations in the order you approach them when arriving from Ende. Take your own covers or wear a sweater to bed, as the blankets these lodges provide for you are usually too thin to warm you up.
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