Backwaters in Kerala is a network of 1500 km of canals both manmade and natural, 38 rivers and 5 big lakes extending from one end of Kerala to the other.
Backwaters is one of the major tourism product of Kerala, being unique to the state. Traditionally used as one of the main transportation alleys, today backwaters offer a rejuvenating experience for tourists visiting Kerala.
The backwaters can be explored by hiring a boat for one or several days. If you go for more than a day, the boat usually comes with a navigator and a cook, which provide you with various facilities when exploring the backwaters.
While hill resorts and beaches can be found in other parts of India, the backwaters are unique to Kerala. Meandering through the coastal areas of Kerala is a 900-km-long (560-mile) intricate network of lagoons, lakes, canals, estuaries and deltas of several rivers that flow into the Arabian Sea. This is a natural phenomenon, as major rivers and streams that flows within Kerala drain themselves into backwaters regions, resulting in creation of several small land strips, lagoons, islands etc, which opens to sea at few areas. Thus backwaters are one of the largest fresh-water sources and rich in marine habitat as well as adds to natural beauty. Kerala has 3 backwater regions.
The most beautiful and accessible part of the back waters is the Vembanad backwater stretch located in districts of Ernakulam, Alapuzha and Kottayam area. Vembanadu lake is the longest lake in South Asia and listed as prestigious Ramsar sites, with rich biodiversity. The north Vembanadu lake opens to sea at Kochi harbour. The Kochi coast is dotted with numerous islands interconnected by ferries and bridges, adorning the Queen of the Arabian Sea like a necklace of pearls. The islands break the waves from the sea, thus ensuring that the back waters are calm and navigable. Among the islands, Wellingdon Island deserves special mention as it houses the Port of Cochin and the largest Naval presence in India: the Southern Naval Command.
The southern Vembanadu lake is world-renowned for its natural beauty and large expanse of water, sandwiched between district of Alapuzha and Kottayam. This is the most visited tourist area in South India and enthralls visitors all over world. Houseboat tourism, made these backwaters popular, where tourists can stay overnight in luxurious houseboats, enjoying natural beauty.
Alapuzha has one of the largest network of canals and lagoons. It is famous for its unique practice of farming below sea-level at Kuttanad, where sea water is prevented using mud bars and lagoon strips. Whereas Kottayam has rose to world fame, when its sleepy lake village- Kumarakom became favourite holiday homes for international celebrities, overnight. Kumarakom is a famous bird sanctuary with home of several rare migratory birds with large expanse of backwaters and lagoons.
The second most visited backwater region is Astamudi Lake located in district in Kollam. This is one of the largest fresh-water lake in India, with numerous navigable canals and rivers interconnecting almost all regions of south Kerala. The Astamudi is also home of several endangered marine species.
The third backwater region is located at Kannur-Valiyaparambu Backwaters located in districts of Kannur and Kasargod, which is least exploited, though it offers amazing natural beauty and presence of numerous small uninhabited islands.
Apart from these three major backwater regions, smaller lagoons can be found in most coastal districts of Kerala. The popular options are
Houseboat tourism is the most popular activity in backwaters, with many large Kettu-vallams (traditional rice boats, now converted into floating hotels), large cruisers and yachts operating.
Arundhati Roy's famed debut novel The God of Small Things is set largely in the Kerala Backwaters. It is worth reading to get a sense of the role of culture, religion, and politics in shaping the society of the people who live here.
To access Vembanad Lake, Cochin International Airport (IATA: COK) in Kochi is 90 km from Alapuzha and Kottayam districts.
To access Ashtamudi Lake, Trivandrum International Airport (IATA: TRV) in state capital Thiruvananthapuram is better, as it's within 68 km.
Calicut International Airport (IATA: CCJ) of Kozhikode, should be your choice to reach Malabar Backwaters, particularly Kannur areas. Alternatively, Mangalore Airport (IATA: IXE) and Coimbatore Airport (IATA: CJB) are other options having national flight connectivity.
Alapuzha Town and Kottayam Junction are major railway stations in Indian Railway Network, for all trains bound to South Kerala, where one needs to align to proceed to Alapuzha Backwaters and Kumarakom islands respectively.
Kollam Junction, is a major railway station, which is in heart of Kollam town where one can reach Astamudi-Sasthamkotta lake regions
Kannur, Thalassery, are Kasargod are major railway line in busy Konkan Railway line (Trivandrum-Mumbai route), hence align respectively, to proceed to Malabar backwaters region
Most of the backwater regions are interconnected each other with National highways and State highways. While much of Alapuzha region is connected by NH 47, Kottayam is connected with SH-1 (MC Road) and both the regions are interconnected with A-C State highway (Alapuzha-Changassery).
Much of Kollam regions are covered with numerous State highways and 2 national highway- NH 47 and NH 208.
Northern Kerala are interconnected with several SH and NH 17.
Regular cruises call at Kochi port from where tourists can reach Vembandu lake either by car or yachts or light cruisers. A few ships do call at Old Alapuzha Port.
Similarly few cruises call at Beypore Port near Kozhikode, from where tourists can proceed to Kannur Backwaters via cars.
Boat is the best way to go around the region. Apart from tourist houseboats, regular ferries operated by Kerala State Inland Navigation Company (KSINC) and traditional country-side canoes also operate in the region.
Road connections are also available interconnected by bridges, allowing cars and buses to ply. A few islands are connected with small walk-bridges, which needed to be explored either by foot or bicycle/bikes.
Before trucks became common, the main cargo transportation was through backwaters by 'Kettuvalloms'. Kettuvallom loosely translated means: ‘roofed boat’. They can be as long as 70 foot, with a 30 ton capacity, made with wooden planks joined and tied together with coconut ropes and painted with cashew nut oil outside. Nowadays many kettuvalloms have been converted to House Boats by enterprising boat owners with amenities like beds, kitchens, bars & toilets. The entire houseboats are constructed with natural eco-friendly materials like bamboo, coir, palm leaves and wood. Normally houseboats have 2 or 3 bedrooms with large lobby area, a kitchen and crew rooms. Some larger houseboats are even two storied with open terrace and observation deck connected with bamboo stair case.
They are available on hire for fixed rates (varies according to the season). The package usually includes tour along the backwater with stops at various place with historical or cultural importance. The menu usually includes the fresh water catch along with the seasonal sea food and Kerala vegetarian dishes. Guests who require special menus as well as vegetarian foods in certain specific styles, must inform the crew or operator office, at least one day before the cruise. Packages include cost of food and all regular amenities. Guests can swim in the backwaters, only in the areas, authorized by houseboat crew. Most of the houseboat operates on 22-hour cruise, starting from noon to 10AM next day. The houseboats will be anchored from evening 8PM onwards and morning 6AM next day, as laws prohibit these vessels being piloted at night. Houseboats are available for 8-hour cruise package for larger crowds, who do not prefer staying over-night.
The backwaters flow through almost all the districts of Kerala -- Alappuzha, Thiruvananthapuram, Ernakulam, Kottayam, etc. Almost all the stretches have breathtaking views. Not to be missed are the Thiruvallam backwaters, Kumarakom (on Vembanad lake) and Kuttanad.
It's water, water and water everywhere, with few narrow of strip of land in-between with huge coconut trees guarding, with its palms swaying in wind. The experience cannot be described effectively by any travelogue.
A large draw to the backwaters of Kerala are tours in houseboats. The houseboats are equipped with kitchens (many include a cook!), bedrooms and a pilot. Some houseboat operators offer fishing and will even cook your catch according to your preferred style of cooking. These tours commonly anchor at local vegetable markets and allow you to purchase fresh, local produce. In the evenings, the houseboats will anchor near local toddy shops and you can treat yourself to traditional Kerala palm toddies and food.
Perhaps unique to this region are the floating supermarkets operated by Triveni Co-op. They offer a decent selection of groceries items and other essentials to cater to people living on the islands. The supermarkets are built inside large motorized boats.
A key component of the daily menu for those travelling in a houseboat is freshly-caught freshwater fish. Regular menus are prepared in typical Kerala style, freshly prepared by crew in each houseboat. Special dietary needs can be accommodated if notified in advance. Guests also can cook for themselves in the boat's kitchen.
Around the backwaters, there are numerous small Kallu shops (Toddy Shops) which also serve food. However you would not be able to appreciate, if you are a vegetarian or vegan, as majority of them are fishes and other non-vegetarian dishes. Kallu-shops, serves local palm toddy known as Kallu, but today most of the people visit shops for its signature dishes. Some signature regional specialties include:
Many travellers stay on houseboats, but you can also find many resorts dotting the backwaters. Most of these are converted ancestral homes where you can stay with the family and have a feel of the local culture and cuisine.
There are few homestays in the island of Kumbalangi, Bolghatty etc. But to see the backwaters, you don't have to stay in any of the islands, there are hotels in mainland Ernakulam, from where you can go the islands, or backwaters.
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