Khorugh (also spelled Khorogh, Khorog, Xoroq, Tajik Cyrillic: Хоруғ) is a city in the Pamirs of Tajikistan.
Khorugh, the capital town of Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (Province), is situated in a steep river valley surrounded by the Pamir mountains. The nearby river Panj (aka Oxus) is the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. The town has enough bustle to be interesting but it certainly isn't overwhelming. There are a plethora of NGOs working in the area.
The Pamir Eco-Culture Tourism Association (PECTA) has an office at the edge of the city park (37.49N x 71.548E) where you can get a map of the Pamir mountain region, as well as books about the local culture, advice about home-stays, etc.
Nearly everything closes on Sundays, there's not even transport out of town (except perhaps for Murghab and Dushanbe, but get there early); it may be wise to plan a schedule accordingly. A day wandering amongst equally bored watermelon vendors can get quickly become tedious.
From Dushanbe:
Airplane usually flies 1 flight a day, when the weather is good during the summer. Spectacular flight, for about USD 85.
Vehicles run constantly to Khorugh. Best to get there is very early in the morning, maybe 06:00-07:00. Vehicles leave from a lot tucked away near the airport. Most people in the capital are unaware of its location. When heading to the airport from the north you go into a dip going under a big road. Just before that there will be a dead end road on your right. Get out of the car and walk through a big gate (lots of people heading that way.) Just repeat "Khorogh" to everyone, and sooner or later someone will know what you're talking about. Price is 300-350 somoni (30-35 US dollars, June 2019).
Get a good vehicle as a good vehicle usually means a good driver. The trip takes between 14-17 hours and this will sometimes be split over 2 days.
There are a series of parking lots, each with vehicles heading to somewhere in the Pamirs. Vehicles arrive in town around 08:00-09:00 and begin departing 10-12ish, whenever they get a full load. The cost to most villages is 1-3 TJS a seat.
In town you can just walk or catch a local marshrutka for 1 TJS.
The bazaar sells osh (pilaf), eggs, and potatoes, or all variety of fried pastries. Head up the place where they sell bread in stacks on the main road.
Be careful with the water as always but the water here is not nearly as bad as in Dushanbe. Most water sources in the villages are contaminated by cattle and people upstream.
Several inns and lots of homestays available.
Pamir Lodge, 37.48683°, 71.56239°, +992 55 555 3912. The budget place in town. Quite far up the hill. Very popular among bicycle travellers. Camping 50 SM; Rooms 7-8 USD per person. 2019-08-01
Kivekas Hotel, +992 3522 2 4142. wifi, breakfast. $35
Lal Inn (Lalita Inn), +992 93 507 0005.
Lalmo Pamir Home Stay, +992 93 508 6999. Laalmo is a very nice lady who runs a homestay in her house. Nice meals. Very clean and western toilet and shower with hot water. Good place to stop on your way in and out of the higher places. Breakfast is extra, but it has hot showers, western toilet. $10 2020-05-17
Serena Inn Very nice but pricey at $100. Has en-suite bathrooms. Is 2.2 km north from the Khorog airport, on the west side of the main road at 37.525N x 71.506E. Built by the Aga Khan Foundation in-order to encourage tourism in the region. Built in typical Badakshani style and situated next to the river, it is luxurious. Telephone: (+99235222) 3228.
Some hotels and guesthouses will have WiFi, but not the majority. Go down to the PECTA info centre in Khorog City Park, Wi-Fi is available for 5 somoni for 3 hours. The staff are friendly and English-speaking.
If you need treatment, you need to evacuate. There are some expat docs in Dushanbe, who know what they are doing.
Broken bones can be dealt with in Khorugh. The hospital (a huge compound) is near the lowest walking bridge, on the non-bazaar side.
The Aga Khan Foundation has access to a helicopter for emergencies. Flag down a vehicle with one of the logos.
Air - Go to the airport. Try to give your passport to someone. If they take it, that means you might get on the list. Ask... there might be some English speakers there, but all speak Russian. ("Samaliot" = airplane). Once the airplane takes off from Dushanbe, they will begin selling tickets in the back of the building, so walk around to a tiny hole in the wall and listen for your name. 1hr flight.
Land - Arrive at the bazaar no later than 08:00. The place will be mostly deserted, except for a few men standing around cars. They are going to Dushanbe. Pick a very good car. Once their vehicle filled, they will leave. 14-24hrs, provided no problems. 1 day trip is tough but 2 days is much more relaxing. Your food may very well be covered in the fee. Be careful at the roadside diners. Often the soup or food has been sitting out for days. Eggs and hotdogs are safest.
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