Lake Toba (Danau Toba), on the island of Sumatra in Indonesia, is the largest volcanic lake in the world. Samosir island, in the lake, is an island within an island. It is located at North Sumatra.
Lake Toba is an immense volcanic lake covering an area of 1,707 km<sup>2</sup> (1,000 km<sup>2</sup> bigger than Singapore) with an island in the center. Formed by a gigantic volcanic eruption some 70,000 years ago, it is probably the largest resurgent caldera on Earth. Some studies say it might have been associated with causing previous ice age/climate change and the largest human population bottleneck ever. Genetic estimates suggest that there were only a few thousand individuals that survived the catastrophe. The island in the middle - Pulau Samosir - was joined to the caldera wall by a narrow isthmus, which was cut through to enable boats to pass; a road bridge crosses the cutting. Samosir island is the cultural centre of Batak tribe who are mostly Christians nowadays.
Lake Toba was perhaps once more popular than it is nowadays, but for many it remains a firm fixture on the Banana Pancake Trail. It is a great laid back place to chill out for a few days after jungle trekking etc. The location is very popular with Chinese tourists around Chinese New Year, when availability drops dramatically and accommodation costs skyrocket. In its effort to promote tourism, government has greatly improved the infrastructure.
The water quality in Lake Toba is not the same everywhere, so seek local advice before swimming. Some areas of the lake are not recommended for swimming, due to pollution caused by intensive fish-farming.
The local people who live in the Toba region are called Toba Batak, or simply Batak, and they speak the local Batak language, but everyone also speaks Indonesian. You may want to use the Batak greeting, 'horas', which means welcome, good morning, farewell, etc.
You can also fly to Medan's Kualanamu International Airport and continue to Lake Toba by land.
A heliport is available in "World Heritage minimini".
There are 2 routes to reach Lake Toba from Medan:
The Kabanjahe route is by far the shortest route and the only road to offer several options to reach Lake Toba. The route passes through Berastagi town and Kabanjahe city till it reaches Merek town (about 2.5 hours' drive from Medan). Once you reach Merek, there are 3 options: go to Tongging in the northern part of the lake (30 minutes' drive), to Parapat in the eastern part (2 hours' drive) or go through Sidikalang and continue to the western part to reach Samosir island via the only land bridge. This route is recommended to those who wish to explore Berastagi, Kabanjahe and Lake Toba in one go.
The Pematang Siantar route is the most popular route if you choose to head for Parapat or the southern part of Lake Toba. It takes about 5 hours by bus from Medan and will pass through Pematangsiantar. Due to opening of a toll road, the travel time may be cut by 30 - 45 mins. If you are flying to Kualanamu Airport, then most likely you will use this route.
From Medan:
There is no direct train to Lake Toba. The nearest train station is at Pematang Siantar 50 km north of Parapat. The train (Siantar Ekspres) departs from Medan every day on 14:00 and the trip takes about 4 hours because the train stops at almost every station. Ticket price is Rp 22,000 one way (as of December 2018). From Pematang Siantar, you have to continue by bus/taxi to Parapat, which is another 1-2 hours ride. It is a long but wonderful way to travel if you like to learn more culture on their daily living and lifestyle.
Using a car is the easiest and safest way to get around, but you have to rent from either Medan or Pematangsiantar. Use a car with a high ground clearance and preferably one with lots of power. The majority of roads around Lake Toba are unpaved, save for the major road. Even the paved one may be in very bad condition, with lots of potholes.
In June 2018 within a week there were 2 accidents. First a ferry lost most of its passengers, about 200, who drowned due to high waves. The second was a boat with 9 passengers who drowned due to engine failure. Avoid using boats in bad weather and use boats with at least 2 engines. Don't use the ferry if it is overloaded, as they have an insufficient number of life vests. Small boats rarely have any life vests at all.
Local transportation around the lake takes the form of boats (cheaper, school boats with limited schedules and more expensive public boats that operate throughout the day).
The ferry dock of Parapat is the major access point for the Samosir island. From there, jump in a local mini-van (Rp 2,000) towards the Parapat bus station. From there you can reach nearly all the big cities in Sumatra and even Java.
Several harbours on the mainland have ferry connections with Samosir island. Most common is the Parapat - Tomok route. Public boats from Parapat and surrounding areas sail from either Ajibata harbour 📍 or Tigaraja harbour 📍 to Tuktuk or Tomok at Samosir island. The boat runs every hour, with the last one at 18:00. Some ferry owners are tourist hunters and will overcharge you. Try to take the ferry with wooden benches inside and the light green ferry. Those are the ferries that charge Rp 10,000 and the locals take to cross over. Self-proclaimed 'tourist hunters' may befriend you on the boat but are harmless and often helpful. If you are staying at Tuktuk, you can ask the ferryman to drop you directly at your resort. Watch out for the guys that ask for the fee before you embark — they do not work for the operators. You pay on the boat.
The large ferries KMP Tao Toba I & KMP Tao Toba II operates between Ajibata and Tomok 📍 daily, carrying passengers as well as vehicles. On non-peak season, usually only one of the ferry operates. The ferry ride over is fantastic, just truly peaceful, apart from the car radios playing, the ladies selling peanuts, bottled water, noodle or pretty much anything else. Normally some of the passengers and vendors will be able to speak English. Landing at the other end of the 1 hour ferry journey is daunting, but again, behave like everyone else in Indonesia and just push, ever so politely, but firmly and eventually you will get off the ferry and onto the main road. If you are not bringing vehicles along, better use the boat service as it's faster.
Other large ferries routes are (as of January 2018):
Public boat routes (passengers only) are (as of January 2018):
If you have cash to burn, you can charter a speedboat and tour around Lake Toba. Rent are Rp 500,000++.
It may be obvious but just remember there are no taxis around Lake Toba. Public buses exist, but there is no specific schedule. Ask the locals which bus to take as it may be confusing or you can flag a bus and ask the driver. State clearly your destination to avoid misunderstanding. Open minivans circulate around the main one way thoroughfare between the main road, port/market waterfront area, and the mountains behind Parapat. Hop on / hop off anywhere. Prices around Rp 3,000 per person.
Hire a motorcycle for a day or two and get out and about Rp 70,000 per day including full petrol. You can bargain down to Rp 50,000 per day in low season if you hire for several days. Most of the motorcycles available for rent are the owner's own transportation, so you may need to return it to them before sunset (depends on owner) or you may be charge for an extra fees. Take a map. There are no police checking licenses and there is not much traffic - just watch out for the big trucks, buses and diabolical bridges. Honking around is a norm to indicate that there's incoming car from the opposite or there's a car bypassing you from the back (in driver's point of view). A good journey to take on a motorcycle would be to travel North from Tuktuk around to the western shore, stopping at the tourist sites along the way such as the many and varied traditional houses and villages. The roads are very bad in the center of the island (bumpy and washed out) and it takes half a day to cross this way (verse 1–2 hours by coast road which is more scenic anyway). You can expect to ride at least up to 100 km in the day. If you're going around the island with motorcycle or bicycle, be sure to put on some sunblock as when you venture out in the morning things can be deceiving due to the cooler temperatures in the morning cause of the higher elevation, but the sun will be intense by mid-day.
Most of the cottages and guest houses at Tuktuk will rent you a very serviceable bicycle for a nominal fee (for locals, it's about Rp 100,000), this is a very much preferred way to get around, but be very careful for the cars as nobody looks and there does not seem to be any right side of the road, even when its the left side.
Sure you can walk the small part of the island in an hour or so but if you are heading out for the night plan ahead on how you will get back home. The locals are very friendly people who will go out of their way to help. However, some corners of the island are very quiet at night and you may find yourself on a long long walk. Most part of the island also lack road lights, combined with bad road condition makes driving at night is misery!
There is a path leading up the mountains to the north of Parapat about 100 m out of the buildings down the main road. This leads up to an attractive pine forest.
Replace after the frenetic atmosphere of Indonesia. Swim in the volcanically warmed waters of the lake or arrange an overnight 'party' boat out on the lake if you can get enough volunteers together. A beautiful place to do nothing at all. Plenty of second hand book shops to stock up on reading material. Traditional Batak Dance in Restaurant Bagus Bay every Wednesday and Saturday from 20:15 onwards. After the dance, sit back and enjoy the folk songs done by a group of men.
Rent a scooter to get around. Scooters cost about Rp 80,000 -100,000 per day. Petrol is approx Rp 9,000 per liter as of June 2017.
Do visit the west! Especially the viewpoint at the northwest tip called Pantai Batu Hoda. Very chill place with a couple of huts to relax and have coffee in. It's away from the roads and bustle of touristic jet skis.
Get to the viewpoint in the northeast, after Tomok near Latihan Paralayang, for a good accessible view over the lakes while up on the hills. Take a right fork after passing Tomok town. Roads are good. The road on the left fork is not paved.
Fishing Rental of a fishing rod (Rp 120,000 including bait) is possible.
The adventurous travelers may find many opportunity to explore the wilderness. Lake Toba offers plenty of rainforest with hills and mountains. Unless you are an experienced trekker and know what you are doing, a guide is recommended.
The main road around Tuktuk is lined with small restaurants of varying quality. Also on offer is magic mushroom and various "happy herb" pizzas if you want that.
Most restaurants in Parapat are located either on the main road or in hotels. The hotels offer some western dishes, whereas the local restaurants are either Batak (pork may be present) or Minang/Padang (Muslim). Many hotels will include a basic Indonesian breakfast of coffee and either fried rice (nasi goreng) or fried noodles (mee goreng)
This area is in a depressed tourist state but is actual a wonderful gem that should be on the world stage. So while some places may look like not much is going on- just go in - and the momentum will build into a fun filled night with new friends. There is one discotheque on Fri and Sat nights - expect the 80s music. Better to drink at your guest house generally. There are a number of fine spots around the Tuk Tuk area to catch a sunset beer. Especially on Saturday night you can hear a chorus of parties going around the Tuktuk area.
There are numerous hotels and guest houses, mainly in Tuktuk but with a few scattered in other small towns around the island. During Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb), many Indonesians come for vacation and will pay generously for their rooms (about triple the rate). To accommodate these guests, some guest house owners may ask their existing guests to vacate their rooms, but only giving them very short notice. Therefore, when arriving before Chinese New Year, check with the guest house owner to ensure your stay will not be interrupted.
Aman guesthouse, Tuktuk (Next to Tony's). Traditional Batak houses with hot water shower. Rp 40,000-50,000 per room.
Bagus Bay, Jalan Tuktuk, Samosir, 2.66993°, 98.85512°, +62 625 451287. Next to the lake. A dark wood and bamboo bar/restaurant gives the place a relaxed feel. The most rooms are basic. They have a restaurant and internet and WIFI. Rp 30,000-175,000 2016-09-08
Hotel Barbara, Ambarita, 2.6931°, 98.82085°, +6285261687343. Small quite relaxing place a few km from Tuktuk with lovely scenery and good swimming. Rooms are clean and located in several houses. Western and Indonesian style food is served in the restaurant or on the terrace. Tourist information and good tips about Sumatra. From Rp 70,000 2022-11-25
Charlie's Guesthouse, Parapat. cheap and central. Overlooks the market (therefore a bit noisy, especially on Saturday) and is very close to the ferry station. Rooms are about Rp 70,000, pretty clean and with shower 2015-02-23
Christina Guesthouse, Tuktuk, +62 625 451027. A small relaxing place with lovely scenery and good swimming. Rooms are clean and located in several traditional Batak-houses). Internet and Skype access are available for reasonable price. Western and Indonesian style food is served in the restaurant. General tourist information and good tips about Sumatra. From Rp 50,000
Danau Toba Cottage, Parapat, 2.65972°, 98.93084°. Offers spacious rooms, Wifi and cable TV and a swimming pool. rooms Rp 260,000-400,000 2015-02-23
Ebikel's Homestay. Homestay with a decent room and affordable price. The owner Ebikel is a helpful and willing guide to Samosir Island.
Haraira. Large very clean rooms with hot water shower (Rp 80,000-100,000/night). Well maintained garden in front of the rooms towards the Lake. Really nice view, good swimming.
Hotel Carolina, Tuk-tuk Siadong, Samosir, 2.66800°, 98.86139°, +62 625 451210, carolina@indosat.net.id. 49 rooms set in a beautiful tropical garden. It has a restaurant with a verandah overlooking the lake. Staff are very helpful. Small Batak style cottages up the hill have cold water only. Luxury rooms on the lake shore come with hot water, a bath tub and a fridge. They have a lake area for swimming with a diving board and pontoon to relax. The hotel can organize travel, trips and motorbike rental. Computer room and free Wi-Fi in the restaurant area, though the speed can be very slow. Rp 45,000-150,000+10% 2016-09-08
Liberta Homestay, Jl. Lkr. Tuktuk, Samosir, 2.67000°, 98.85374°, +62 625 451035. It has quiet private cabins on the lake. Traditional Batak houses, good atmosphere. The room No1 is a good choice, because of the view and terrace. Friendly owner Mr Moon will sing, cook, and go out of his way for you. He also provides a herbal blend against diarrhea. Rp 60,000+ 2016-09-08
Mas Cottages. Closer to the ancient ceremonial stone chairs than downtown Tuktuk. Variety of accommodation options all directly on the lake including suites and traditional Batak houses. Prices are a bit higher for this secluded location. Rooms with hot water, but the hot water is unreliable. Good breakfast. No Wi-Fi or internet, and the nearby internet café seems always to be closed. Rp 60,000-70,000
Niagara Hotel and Resort, Parapat. One of the better hotels, although only 2 to 3 stars. Can be crowded with families and Indonesians at weekends and on public holidays.
Parnas Homestay and Bar, Tuktuk Siadong - Samosir Island, Parapat 22395, Indonesia, +62 625 451167. A very chilled out place on the left wing of the peninsula Tuktuk. 4 very spacious and beautifully furnished rooms with bathroom, direct access to the lake and stunning views. There's a huge Bar and restaurant with a communal room. free pool billiards, table tennis, darts. Live music, scooter rental, BBQ, laundry. Rooms between Rp 60,000 in low season and Rp 150,000 in high season (note: confirm the agreed room price in writing as it may change when you get the bill).
Romlan, 2.67331°, 98.86053°, +62 625 451386, romlantuktuk@yahoo.com. Small guesthouse with 12 rooms including 2 batak cottages in both a single and a 2-storey building. The rooms are clean and comfortable with attached bathroom. All rooms have a direct lake view. Good for swimming and relaxing. Local and Indonesian food including some German meals. Free Wi-Fi. Private boat dock. Cottages Rp 40,000 (must ask), rooms Rp 150,000 (Rp. 120,000 low season) 2022-11-25
Samosir Cottages, Tuktuk, +62 625 451170, info@samosircottages.com. Good for those who arrive late in Parapat, there is usually a representative to take them to the cottages. The waterfront is clean, and the large restaurant food and drinks. Batak music provided every Wed night and Sat night. If you walk outside the hotel you can use a local cafe which may offer some more variety and cheaper prices. They also own Samosir Villa Resort 5 mins drive away. Its sister resort has new rooms, free internet, a pool and a restaurant providing food and drinks. From Rp 200,000
Sapo Juma, Tongging (From the gate to Sipiso-piso waterfall/Tongging village, turn right where signboard mention Bukit Gajah Bobok and Sapo Jumma. Follow the road passing flower garden until reaching Sapo Jumma about 15 min), 2.9100°, 98.5196°, +62 812 6293 1331. A home-stay consists of 8 standard rooms, this can be a very cheap alternative to Simalem Resort if you want to enjoy the same view as this is located adjacent hill of Simalem Resort. The owner also has extensive flower garden just across the hotel. Staff are very friendly. There's a camping ground as well. Rp 450,000++ per room 2018-06-11
Saulina Resort, Jl. Aek Rangat, Kel. Siogung Ogung, Pangururan (If you are coming from Tele, turn left on the fork before the land-bridge to Samosir island, with the bridge right of your position), 2.618°, 98.678°, +62 626 20810. One of the hotels at Pusuk Buhit foothills just at the lakeside. Not much activity at night except taking a dip in nearby hot springs. Rp 420,000++ for standard room, Rp 2,150,000 for villa (6 people) 2018-12-28
Tabo Cottages, Tuktuk, +62 625 451 318, tabores@indo.net.id. Rooms are clean and quite modern by Sumatran standards. Free Wi-Fi. Western-styled food served in the restaurant is good. From Rp 120,000
Taman Simalem Resort, Jl. Raya Merek - Sidikalang Km. 9, 2.88728°, 98.50353°, +62-61-4577616 (marketing office), +62-811-6077-616, info@tamansimalem.com. Taman Simalem Resort is Indonesia's first agro-eco-tourism destination that has the magnificent Lake Toba as the backdrop at some 1400 m above sea level. Some unique features of the resort comprise Indonesia's largest loquat farm, an organic vegetables farm, a 9-hole golf course set in a tea and coffee estate and a twin waterfall in the 130-ha jungle that surrounds the resort. The resort is still under development but accommodation is available; ranging from the 4-bedded rooms with detached bathrooms to villas set in the jungle. For the more adventurous, camping packages are also available. A minimum 2-night stay is recommended to be able to enjoy most of the resort's facilities. Windbreakers and sweaters are recommended as the temperature averages below 20°C year round. Start from Rp 1,900,000 2018-04-26
Tony's Guest House. Nice people and nice double room. Vegetable taco for Rp 21,000. From Rp 25,000
Tuk-Tuk Timbul, Jl. Lkr. Tuktuk, Samosir (along the road from Tuktuk to Ambarita), 2.68083°, 98.84064°, +62 81 2640 11194. Basic bungalows along the Lake Toba shore, with a small restaurant. 2016-09-08
My Nasha Hotel, Tigaras, 2.8009°, 98.7818°, +62 81809351766, +62 81534534383, mynashatigaras@gmail.com. A bit expensive by Lake Toba standard, but it offers a very splendid view to Lake Toba especially the Junior Family room type. Food from hotel are expensive, it's recommended to eat outside of hotel. Has swimming pool for adults and kids (separated). start from Rp 500.000 2019-12-30
The local Batak people are very respectful. Some of the local males may try to turn on the charm too much.
A popular way for tourists to get around Samosir Island is to hire a motorcycle Rp 70,000-80,000, a lower rate may be available if rented for a longer period. Care should be taken if choosing this option as the roads around the island are in poor condition and medical services very limited if you have an accident requiring medical treatment.
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