Lucca is a city of some 90,000 people (2017) in Tuscany. Its long history goes back to Etruscan and Ancient Roman times, and the city retains pieces of ancient architecture. Lucca's heyday was in the Gothic era just before the Renaissance, and the city contains much marvellous architecture from that era. Lucca remained an independent city state until the end of the 18th century. Giacomo Puccini, one of the best-known opera composers, was born in Lucca, and his house is visited by many opera-lovers every year.
The area of most interest to visitors is still enclosed within the old city's defensive walls. The top of these broad walls is a ring park, a pleasant place for walking.
Rail and road links provide easy access from nearby Pisa and Florence.
Pisa Galileo Galilei International Airport (dead link: March 2023) (IATA: PSA) is 2 km south of Pisa. Flights from most large cities are available daily, and from major airports several per day. Car hire is available from all the major providers.
There's a direct "Viabus" from the airport to Lucca, one hour; buy your tickets (€4) beforehand at the kiosk within the arrivals hall. Otherwise take the "Pisamover" light railway to Pisa Centrale, and change there for trains to Lucca.
Viabus 11 calls at Florence Airport on its way to Florence Santa Maria Novella.
The railway station 📍 is just south of the old town walls. Deposit luggage at the Tourist Center just outside.
Trains from Pisa Centrale run every 30 minutes. Lucca is also on the main line from Viareggio to Florence Santa Maria Novella, so there is a direct train at least hourly from both cities.
The main local operator is Viabus, with regular runs to Pisa, Florence and Barga. The bus station 📍 is at Piazzale Verdi, just inside the walls west side of the old town.
Driving inside the walls is mostly reserved to residents, so park your car (there are car parks outside the walls and a couple inside, accessible by non-residents) and rent a bike. Several bicycle rental locations can be found near the north entrance to the city, Porta Santa Maria, near Porta San Pietro and walking from Porta Elisa towards the center. It is not a large city within the walls, so you may find it more enjoyable to simply walk around.
The city has many car parks outside the wall; the largest two are on the North and South side. The A11 (E76) Runs from the coastal A12(E80) Autostrada across towards Firenze.
On foot: the old city is compact.
By bike: hardly necessary for the old city, but helpful if you've edge of town accommodation. Hire bikes from the Tourist Center at the railway station. Rental bikes ranging from 2-6 people are available for rent to travel around the circumference and within Lucca.
By bus: little navetti potter through the streets: a map of their nine routes is available at Vaibus. The only one you're likely to use is #11 from railway station to bus station, and #12 in the other direction. Last buses are at 20:00. As for other Italian buses, buy your ticket at any tobacconist, and cancel it when you board. A single ticket is €1.
City Walls. You can walk or cycle on top of the ancient city walls. The entire perimeter is approximately 4 km. This gives a good introduction to the city layout. Expect crowds in the summer months.
Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, 43.8454°, 10.5063°. A former Roman amphitheatre, but the remains of the amphitheatre are gone. The houses there are of medieval origin, built where the spectator stands were.
Duomo di San Martino, Piazza di San Martino, 43.840556°, 10.506389°. Romanesque cathedral dating to 14th century. Contains the must-see Volto Santo and Ilaria del Carretto's Sarcophagus by Jacopo della Quercia (as of May 2014 you have to pay an additional €4 to see this). Includes a sculpture of the crucifixion attributed to an eyewitness, Nicodemus. Some interesting carvings in the marble exterior, including a labyrinth. €3
Torre Guinigi, 43.843611°, 10.506944°. This is a tower with trees atop it, a very dramatic sight, with good views of the city. No lift, many stairs. As of July 2019 the normal entrance price is €5 and the reduced price is €4. It is also possible to buy one ticket for both Torre Guinigi, Torre delle Ore and botanical garden for €9 total
Torre delle Ore, 43.8434°, 10.5042°. Ancient clock tower with original clock still working. It is possible to go upstairs in this tower for a beautiful view of the city and a good perspective of Fillungo street. Great views of Torre Guinigi's trees. No lift. As of July 2019 the normal entrance price is €5 and reduced price is €4. It is also possible to buy one ticket for both Torre Guinigi, Torre delle Ore and botanical garden for €9 total
Puccini Museum, Corte San Lorenzo, 9, 43.84329°, 10.50155°, +39 583 584028. This was Puccini's birthplace and is now a museum about the composer. 2015-12-05
Saint Michael's Church, 43.843056°, 10.502778°.
Saint Frediano's Church, 43.846111°, 10.504722°.
Via Fillungo, 43.843889°, 10.504278°. Main street full of shops and bars.
Palazzo Pfanner, Via degli Asili, 43.84615°, 10.503297°, +39 340 923 30 85. Preserved rooms formerly inhabited by the Pfanner family, as well as a pleasant garden. Also on display, some 19th-century medical equipment. €4
Piazza Napoleone, 43.8414°, 10.5027°. Lucca's largest square. Contains the large Palazzo Ducale, now a government building.
Domus Romana, 43.84515°, 10.50316°, info@domusromanalucca.it. Remains of an old Roman home, have been partially excavated, and may be seen at via Cesare Battisi 15 (at via San Giorgio). €3 2012-04-01
Statue of Luigi Boccherini, 43.842878°, 10.506383°. 2019-05-13
Lucca has many old churches, some of which now house art galleries.
Puccini opera & recitals: The composer Puccini (1858-1924) was born and grew up in Lucca. His works are regularly performed here throughout the year. From 1891 he lived at Torre del Lago on the coast 20 km west, and built a villa there; the annual Puccini festival is held nearby. In 1921 a peat works polluted the neighbourhood so he moved to neighbouring Viareggio. Puccini villa at Torre del Lago 📍 is nowadays a museum and he's buried in the chapel there.
Bagni di Lucca's spa, 44.012282°, 10.582044°. Bagni di Lucca lies between the Appenine Mountains giving a semblance of a climatic mountain resort despite its 152 meters above sea level, perfectly integrated by the River Lima and Serchio, from which the Valley takes its name, can be considered an oasis of peace and serenity. 2019-05-13
The main shopping street is Via Fillungo which runs roughly north/south through the centre of the city. It has a mix of high to mid-range shops selling a range of Italian designer labels such as Missoni, Armani, Max Mara, etc.
Only in Lucca you can find a special sweet-bread in shape of a small baguette or a bun. It's called Buccellato and it has raisins inside and has a unique taste of anise. You can find it in a small shop called Taddeucci, behind Saint Michael's church in the main square.
It is safe to drink the water that comes out of the public fountains. Many locals fill gallon jugs and it is their primary source of drinking water. It is delicious and quite refreshing. In fact, it tastes better than most bottled water.
The digestive tonic China Massagli (dead link: January 2023) is produced at the Farmacia Massagli in Lucca. This is an eminent example of the "china" style of amaro (Italian potable bitters). If you ask for an "amaro locale" at a restaurant, this is likely what you will receive.
Biadina is another local style of bitters, bottled by Massagli and other producers; this drink is often sold with a small pack of pine nuts.
Compared to Florence or Siena, there is relatively little late night activity on the streets of old Lucca. The San Colombano, on top of the walls, overlooking the train station, the Betty Blue (near piazza Santa Maria), the Rewine near San Michele and the Cupido and McCulloughs, outside the walls near the station are some of the bars open late, especially in the summer.
Most locals tend to make the short trip to Viareggio on the coast, which offers a far better selection of clubs, such as 7 Apples and La Canniccia.
It's the opposite of Florence: budget to mid-range places cluster in or near the old walled city. Splurge places are a few km out in the Tuscan countryside, and you'll need wheels.
Places within walking distance of the railway station and available at less than €50 a night include:
2nd-order administrative division
Primary administrative division