Warning: On February 6th 2023 Malatya, was hit by a devastating earthquake. Many of the city's buildings and landmarks are badly damaged or collapsed.
Malatya is one of the biggest cities in the Eastern Anatolia region of Turkey.
Malatya is a relatively new city by Turkish standards, although its ancient name, Malidiya, dates back to the Hittites, a Bronze Age people of Anatolia.
In 1838, during a war between the Ottoman Empire and the forces of Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, the Ottoman army seized what was then the town of Malatya, forcing the local population to Aspuzu, then a collection of cottages amidst the orchards in the outskirts of the town. After the war, the people decided not to return to their battered town, settling permanently in Aspuzu and renaming it to Malatya (the abandoned old town, 10 km north of the present-day city, was later re-populated, and is now called Battalgazi, covered in its separate article).
Today, with a population of over 600,000 (2021), Malatya is the largest city of central-eastern Anatolia, where the gently rolling steppes of Central Anatolia give way to the heavily-rugged terrain of Eastern Anatolia. The plateau on which Malatya sits is surrounded by higher mountains, some of which are covered with orchards that produce the apricots the city is famous for.
Unlike the rest of Eastern Anatolia, much of the urban population speak a non-dialectical standard Turkish, sometimes with a slight accent.
Local people are generally friendly and helpful.
A semi-arid continental climate reigns in the area, with hot (and sometimes sweltering), dry summers and cold, snowy winters. The rainiest time is spring, when a storm season brings showers and thunderstorms, while fall (especially October) is mild and generally pleasant.
Direct trains run daily from Ankara to Malatya, taking 16 hours. There are couchettes and a sleeping car but no buffet. The main stops along the route are Kayseri and Sivas. Twice a week the train continues east via Elazig to Tatvan (the Vangölü Express, 10 hours), with dolmus connections to Van. Trains the other days (the Guney Kurtalan Express) continue to Diyarbakir (6 hours) and Kurtalan (9 hours). For details see Turkish railways website at tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr. The timetable and the online booking system give different days of running for these services. A high-speed line is under construction from Ankara eastwards. This will greatly reduce journey times when the first section to Sivas opens, but don't hold your breath — the grand opening has been postponed every year to the next since 2018.
The Firat Express runs daily from Malatya, south to Adana, taking 8 hours via Gölbaşı and Osmaniye, and north to Elazig (3 hours).
Malatya's railway station is some 5 km northwest of the city centre, about 200 m off the intercity highway - look for the small white sign saying TCDD Gar at the roundabout with a Carrefour store at one side. Dolmuses and town bus lines #1A and #1B run frequently to the central square.
Malatya can easily be reached by car, via Kayseri-Malatya motorway, which is numbered D300.
There are many domestic coach firms from Istanbul bus station. The coaches, reach Malatya via Ankara and the journey takes nearly 15 hours. Beydağı Turizm, Aksoğanoğlu Zafer Turizm, Kernek Turizm have at least 5 daily coaches to Malatya within the specific times of the day.
Buses from Ankara, which also shortly call at Kayseri bus station on the way, take between 9 and 11 hours depending on the service, costing 35 TL on the average. In addition to some of the local companies based in Malatya listed above, nation-wide Metro Turizm operates on this line, too.
Long-haul buses from other major centres in the country, both regional and elsewhere alike, such as Bursa, and Van also call at and accept passengers for Malatya bus station.
Malatya's bus station (otogar) lies at the western outskirts of the city, on the highway from Kayseri and way out of city centre. Luckily, quite frequent public buses, which call at the stops on the highway in front of the station (cross the street for eastbound buses, i.e., those heading for the city), connect it with the city centre (although not all of the buses calling at that stop make it to the city centre—some proceed to the suburbs on the other side of the city via the intercity highway). The earliest public bus services start around 06:00.
The name of the bus stop in front of the otogar (as well as the administration of the station itself) is Maşti, so look for that in bus signs when getting from elsewhere in the city.
The bus station has an official tourism information office, an internet cafe open 24-hr, toilettes (which cost 0.75 TL), as well as benches which might offer a quite uncomfortable sleep if you arrive in the middle of the night. The place is calm and safe through the night with a visible presence of security officers.
The city has a wide number of public buses, some fairly modern and some quite old, easily recognizable by their flashy yellow colour and big Malatya Belediyesi ("Malatya City Council") banners on the sides. However, not every of them heads into downtown, some ply up and down the intercity highway (which is named Çevreyolu on the maps and such, literally "ring road", however it's a wide avenue through the residential neighbourhoods of the city rather than a motorway surrounding the city nowadays), which lie a few blocks north of the main street of city centre. The bus stops at the central square are called Valilik or Vilayet (both mean "Governor's Office", and it seems there is no fixed standard for it—it's possible to see both words on bus signs), so make sure you catch one heading for there when you want to make it right to the downtown. A ride, regardless of the distance or the direction, costs 1.25 TL.
Once in the center, everywhere is easily accessible by foot as the city lies on a fairly flat ground, except for southern neighbourhoods leaning against a steep hillside, which an average traveller takes little, if any, interest anyway.
From the central square, a stroll of 800 metres along the Fuzuli Caddesi (Street) will bring you to Kernek Square (Kernek Meydanı).
The waters of the waterfalls park keep running along a canal spanned by pleasant foot bridges in the leafy median strip of Hamit Feritoğlu Caddesi, unofficially known as Kanalboyu (literally "along the canal"). A stroll of about 500 metres along the Kanalboyu will bring you to another square.
Heading back to northwest from here along Kışla Caddesi—which has a beautifully landscaped wide median strip, which includes benches and palm trees (yes, palm trees. Like those that are found in tropical paradises. All thanks to legendary cold hardiness of Trachycarpus fortunei species)—you will arrive back at the central square; drawing a triangle in the city. However, there are a few more sights on the way, which might slow down your pace a bit.
The city is known for huge apricot orchards of the surrounding countryside, and it's possible to sample a number of local products based on apricot, from the usual dried apricots to highly unique shish kebabs with grilled apricots.
There are a number of cafes along the Kanalboyu, some of which serve hookah (nargile).
The area code of Malatya is (+90) 422.
There is an internet cafe on the corner of Kernek Square and Fuzuli Caddesi, opposite the Waterfalls Park.
As of Dec 2020 Malatya has 4G from all Turkish carriers - coverage of the surrounding highways is variable. 5G has not yet reached this area.
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