Muang Ngoi Neua - human settlement in Laos

Muang Ngoi Neua is a small riverside village in Northern Laos wedged in between karst mountains at the confluence of the Nam Ngoi and the Nam Ou rivers. It's a low-key destination in a stunning location. Interesting hikes can be made to tribal villages in the area.

One of the tribal villages Sop Chem is easily accessible by private boat from Muang Ngoi (150k Nov 2022), 45 minutes upstream. There is a guesthouse there with a beautiful garden area and stunning views which was renovated during the CoViD lockdowns.

Get in

From the south

Three minivans per day travel from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw [Nov22](3½ hours, 09:00 & 11:00 (70,000 kip when bought at the North bus station, 125,000, including tuk tuk, when bought from your hotel, tuk-tuk 35-50k pp). From there, take the connecting 1-hour boatride (daily, 11:30 & 13:30, 50,000 kip).

From the north

Grab the 5-hour boatride from Muang Khua (200-350k kip Nov 2022). The price depends on the number of people travelling and their haggling skills (starting price for whole boat was quoted as 2.5m Nov 2022 but can be had much cheaper).

See

• Tham Kang Cave and Tham Pha Kaew Cave, 20.70095°, 102.69292°. These caves were bomb shelters during the Vietnam War. North of town, about 50 min by foot and can be found without a guide. There is a 10,000 kip toll to enter, to see the village, or to walk past the village. It is claimed this money is for a bridge but if you demand a ticket you will see it is for the cave only and can refuse to pay if you wish. Continue past the caves for about 45 min to reach Ban Na village for lunch, though options are limited. 10,000 kip 2022-11-19

Do

• Nam Ou Beach. At the end of the dry season when the water is low, take a cool splash in the Nam Ou or sip from a cocktail on a bamboo chaise longue.
• Phetdavanh Book Exchange. Change your old books for new ones at this 2-for-1 book exchange with more than 300 titles.
• Visit Surrounding Villages (Bana, Huay Bo, and Huay Sen). There are guest houses in all 3 villages, costing 50-100k kip for a bungalow.
• Phanoy Lookout Point. 08:00-17:30. A steep climb leading to a lookout platform with great views over Muang Ngoi, the Nam Ou and the surrounding mountains. There are two trails and the signs suggest you go up the left hand trail and down the right, however, the left hand trail consists mainly of limestone rock, and bamboo rails, though often loose and shakey, have been installed for safety and easier climbing. The left hand route is steep, and though only 25-35 minutes of climb it can be tricky and scary in parts. The right hand route (signposted for the descent) is relatively easy and mostly mud steps. The land owner will collect the entrance fee once you passed the gate. 20,000 kip 2022-11-19
• Phaboom Lookout Point. If the Phanoy Lookout Point doesn't cut it and you're up for a little challenge, you can ascend the limestone mountain immediately south of Muang Ngoi. There will be a villager collecting the entrance fee right at the gate. The first hour is a steep, slippery climb, with plenty of roots serving as steps, and there are ropes for assistance. You'll come out at an average lookout point with limited views over Muang Ngoi; from here, a more difficult path (taking about another hour) ascends to the peak of the mountain. This part is even steeper in places, more slippery with less holds and no ropes to hold onto save for a few near the peak. Wear shoes with good grip, go slow and make extensive use of the bamboo, trees and stones to avoid falling. Do not go alone unless you have experience with this kind of environment. The effort is rewarded by a magnificent view over the valley behind the mountain, with the Nam Ou river slowly disappearing in the foggy mountains in the distance. A few metres to the right when reaching the peak, you can climb to a flag which provides another fine view over Muang Ngoi. 20,000 kip 2019-01-17

Eat

All restaurants on the main road of the village cater pretty much exclusively to tourists, hence menus are in English only. Perhaps surprisingly, prices are (so far) mostly on par with what you would pay in Northern Laos' towns, maybe a bit more for certain dishes. Most guesthouses also run a restaurant. Lao and Western favourites are readily available, but service is often slow - consider it part of the overall atmosphere.

• Street stalls. There are a couple of street stalls selling bbq sticks, or fried goodies such as battered bread (2k), coconut battered banana (1k), and fried taro and coconut balls (1k), and bags of banana chips (5k) and fried riverweed (10k). The riverweed in particular is very tasty when fried and much cheaper than in the restaurants, it also goes particularly well with beer so if you've snagged yourself a nice balcony, grab a beer (15k) and while away the afternoon in your hammock. 2022-11-19
• Aloune Mai. Good Lao food and cold Beerlao. Makes its own bread and pizza dough. Closed during off season. 2018-08-27
• Lattanavongsa Restaurant. Open all year. Solid and clean. Boasts big wooden balcony and marble table seats on the grass.
• Meen Indian Restaurant. Tasty Indian and Lao food.
• Nicksa's Place. Nicksa's Place has 2 restaurants, 50 m away from each other on the main road. The furthest one offers good prices and a very quiet view on the river.
• Ning Ning Restaurant. Open all year. Big open-air terrace overlooking the Nam Ou. Best view in town.
• Phetdavanh Guesthouse. 07:30 - 10:30. All-you-can-eat breakfast buffet. Food in buffet is not anything special but good quantity for the money. 2 cocktails for 1 during happy hour. First house on the main street with a stone step. 35,000 kip 2018-03-01
• Vita Restaurant. Run by a friendly local couple. Deck with nice wooden tables and chairs, but not much other decoration. Free WiFi. While the menu is not as extensive as other restaurants in town and the atmosphere is lacking, the food is of fine quality and good value for money. 2019-01-17

Drink

• Bee Tree Bar. 17:00 - 22:00. Nice spot completely at the long end of the main road on the left. Bar with stools, couches and fireplace. Great Italian red wine.
• Gecko Bar & Restaurant, 20.707637°, 102.674990°. A nice bar/restaurant, good (if not the same every day) music selection. Friendly owner and staff. 20,000 kip for a cocktail during the happy hour. Their Lao food (or Lam, Suzy, etc.) is also great, ask for spicy (if you can tolerate it) for a more authentic experience. 2017-10-29

Sleep

• Say Lom Guesthouse, 20.710545°, 102.67401°. 2 modern bungalows with excellent views and several older bungalows. A lovely old couple run it. 80,000-100,000 kip 2022-11-12
• Lattanavongsa I & II. Upmarket choice. Hardwood bungalows with en suite bath, nice garden and good restaurant. 80,000-60,000 kip 2017-03-07
• Niksa's Bungalows, 20.7086°, 102.6737391°. Riverside bungalows with attached bath, and two hammocks for each bungalow. Wi-Fi at the reception as well as a restaurant. Friendly staff. Seems to be one of the best budget options. 80,000-50,000 kip 2017-03-07
• Ning Ning Bungalows. Clean wooden bungalows overlooking the Nam Ou. 300,000 kip 2017-03-07
• Phetdavanh Guesthouse & Bungalows. Bungalows with private bath, comfy beds, and superb view over the river. Has a big book collection in the guesthouse on the main street. 50,000 kip low-season 2017-10-19
• Rainbow Guesthouse. 3-storey concrete building with restaurant overlooking the river, close to the boat steps, tallest building in town. Basic rooms with fan and mosquito net. Better take a look on the mattress before checking in, they are not necessarily cleaned on regular basis (if ever). 80,000 kip a night (feb 2015), 60,000 low season (May 2017) 2017-05-16
• Aloune Mai. Private bungalows with hammock in a hidden away spot deep inside the village. Great outdoor seating with bar & restaurant. Restaurant closed during low season. Bungalows come with basic bathroom, hot shower and mosquito net. 50,000 kip 2018-08-27
• Lertkeo. Solid and clean bungalows with riverview about two thirds down the main road, turn right at Meen restaurant. 50,000 kip. 2015-05-16
• Veranda. Offers 3 bungalows with river view, down the main road. Spacious and clean bungalows, with mosquito net, attached bathroom, balcony and hammock. 60,000 kip (high season) for the biggest bungalow (two persons in a three beds room). 2016-02-07 Now also have four rooms in a concrete building with a veranda, with nice views. In low season 50,000 kip for concrete bungalows, 40,000 for wooden ones.
• Aloune guesthouse. Offers bungalows with river view, mosquito net, fan, attached bathroom, balcony with hammock, 60,000 kip, not to be confused with Aloune Mai above.

In the off season the number of empty guest houses can see prices fall as low as 30,000 kip/night.

Cope

• As of June 2018, there are still no ATMs in Muang Ngoi. Make sure to bring enough cash with you. If you run out of money, you will have to take the 09:30 boat to Nong Khiaw and return on the 11:00 boat. As of August 2019, you can get cash with a credit card and 5% fee at Riverside Bungalows.
• Bring a torch with you at night as there are little to no street lights and most of the town goes to bed after sunset.
• Bring boots/old shoes if you arrive in rainy season, as roads are unpaved and can get muddy.
• Wi-Fi is available in most guesthouses and restaurants, but is generally slow to painfully slow.

Go next

Take the public boat south to Nong Khiaw (daily, 09:30, 25,000 kip) the onward boat service from Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang has been discontinued due to the construction of a dam, or north to Muang Khua (1.2m to 2m kip (Nov 2022) to charter a boat for upto 8 people. The cheaper prices available when they already have a group of people coming south from Muang Khua, so they can charge a fare in both directions) for further overland connections to Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam, and the northernmost Phongsali province. It is also possible to make a one-day hike or kayak trip back to Nong Khiaw.