Munich/South-West - Route Wiki

South-West Munich is an area of the city of Munich roughly bounded by the railway tracks north, A99 west, the River Isar east, and the tract of land along A96 south. It's mostly residential, with visitor accommodation and eating places northeast along its boundary with Ludwigsvorstadt. The main attractions are the Flaucher islands in the Isar, the Zoo and Blutenburg castle.

Understand

Sendling was a village within walking distance of the city. It's best known for the Sendlinger Christmas Massacre of 1705, when a peasant revolt was crushed with the loss of 1100 lives. Sendling became an industrial and residential suburb during the 19th century and was incorporated into the city in 1877. Its main attraction is Westpark.

Thalkirchen is a little further south but industrialised early using waterpower from the Isar; its main attraction is the riverside area of Flaucher and the zoo. In 1992 several small neighbourhoods were combined to form the district of (deep breath) Thalkirchen-Obersendling-Forstenried-Fürstenried-Solln.

Hadern west remained rural into the 20th century, being incorporated into the city in 1938. It's the site of Waldfriedhof, the woodland cemetery.

Laim (not to be confused with Berg am Laim east of the city) is older than Munich itself - the name indicates loam or clay, made into bricks. It's on the main railway line and was incorporated into the city in 1900.

Obermenzing (site of Blutenburg Castle) and Pasing became semi-rural upmarket suburbs in the 20th century. They formed a combined district upon incorporation in 1938.

Aubing-Lochhausen-Langwied away west remains largely rural. You might visit the Langwieder lakes.

Get in

By train

Hauptbahnhof 📍 the main railway station is just east of this district. See Munich#Get in for inter-city connections, which span Europe. From the airport take S1 (or the slower S8) and change for lines heading southwest.

Pasing 📍 is a secondary station 10 km west where several mainline trains stop on their way into Hauptbahnhof. These include trains from Cologne, Leipzig and Salzburg, and regional trains from Buchloe, Burgau, Dinkelscherben, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Memmingen and Weilheim. Pasing is an interchange for S- and U-Bahn trains, trams and buses.

S-Bahn suburban trains run east-west across city centre then fan out on either side. This means that most routes radiate out through the southwest, or form its boundary with northern Munich.

S1 runs from the airport via Laim and Hirschgarten to Hauptbahnhof, then east across Altstadt to Ostbahnhof. You could also take S8 from the airport, slower as it runs first to Ostbahnhof, Altstadt and Hauptbahnhof, then Hirschgarten, Laim and south to Westkreuz and Herrsching.
S2 starts northeast of the city at Erding and crosses Altstadt to Hauptbahnhof, Hirschgarten and Laim. It then heads north to Obermenzing, Untermenzing, Allach, Dachau and Petershausen.
S3, S4, S6 and S8 cross city centre via Hauptbahnhof, Hirschgarten and Laim to Pasing, which has DB mainline trains. S3 there turns north to Mammendorf, while the others go south: S4 to Geltendorf, S8 to Herrsching and S6 to Tutzing.
S7 crosses city centre but turns south before Hirschgarten, traversing Sendling district (Heimeranplatz, Harras, Mittersendling), Siemenswerk, Solln, Großhesselohe Isartalbahnhof, Pullach, Höllriegelskreuth and out to Wolfratshausen.
S20 starts at Pasing and swings south to Heimeranplatz (missing Hauptbahnhof) then along the S7 route as far as Höllriegelskreuth.

U-Bahn underground trains are the way to go north-south across the city.

[u3] runs from Olympic Park in the north to Altstadt and Sendlinger Tor then across Sendling to Thalkirchen (Tierpark) (for zoo), Obersendling and Fürstenried West.
[u4] and [u5] run across Altstadt to Hauptbahnhof then Heimeranplatz, Westendstraße and Laimer Platz.
[u6] runs from the north via Allianz Arena, University district, Altstadt and Sendlinger Tor, then across Sendling to Harras, Westpark, Holzapfelkreuth and Klinikum Großhadern.

Trams 18 and 19 run from Altstadt and Hauptbahnhof and make six stops to Lautensackstraße. Tram 18 then trends south to Gondrellplatz while Tram 19 continues west to Pasing.

By road

Road access is straightforward except in rush hour as A99 arcs across the district, with autobahn connections to all points of the compass. The problem is that it's very difficult to park, and street parking is mostly reserved for residents. If making a day-trip, use one of the Park & Rides signposted from the autobahn: these have good S / U-Bahn connections.

Get around

This is a sprawling district though within cycling range. Use S-Bahn, U-Bahn, tram or bus to get around and don't try to use a car, parking is a nightmare. All the attractions described on this page are within the M inner city travel zone, see Munich#Get around for fares and ticket deals.

See

Flaucher 📍 (U-Bahn U3: Thalkirchen (Tierpark)) is a broad expanse of parkland and river islands along the Isar. It's one of the main areas for city folk to relax in the sun, or to stroll in winter when they're less likely to trip over nude sunbathers. It's crossed by the ring road 2R, and barbecues (but not campfires) are permitted outside that ring. (You can buy food, beer and disposable barbecues at EDEKA supermarket next to the U-Bahn station.) Until the 19th century the area near Thalkirchen village was floodplains, only suitable for rough grazing. Several side-channels were then cut to manage the river flow and supply industry, including the power station to the north. The banks became popular for leisure time; in 1870 Zum Flaucher inn (see Drink) was opened and the name caught on. Leisure use has been in conflict with wildlife habitat, and since 2000 the city has re-wilded some sections.
Hellabrunn Zoo, Tierparkstraße 30 (U-Bahn U3: Thalkirchen (Tiergarten)), 48.1007°, 11.5513°, +49 89 625080. Daily 09:00-17:00. This is east of the river and district boundary but easier to access from the west bank. The zoo was founded in 1911 to present animals in their habitat, and houses 19,000 animals. An extensive re-building project means that some areas will be closed, check the website for current status. Until April 2023 Jungle World is closed so you can't see the lions, and the bat grotto has permanently closed. Adult €18, concessions €13, child (4-14 yrs) €7 2022-11-23
Old St Margaret Church, 48.12145°, 11.54144°. This is a baroque structure of 1712, still in use. It was built on the site of the Sendling Massacre of 1705, which destroyed its predecessor. St Margaret or Marina supposedly lived near Isparta (now in Turkey) around 300 AD, and suffered fantastical tortures at the hands of the Roman governor and a dragon. Post mortem, she was always giving Joan of Arc good advice. Church indulgences (mitigation of punishments in the afterlife) were granted to those who read about her life and works, which fortunately you've just done. 2022-11-25
New St Margaret Church (Stadtpfarrkirche St Margaret). Completed in 1913, this is a baroque / rococo church a block south of the old church. 2022-11-25
St Korbinian Church, 48.1178°, 11.5499°. It is part of the same RC parish as the two St Margarets. It's neo-baroque, completed in 1925, bombed in wartime but rebuilt to the same plan by 1951. Corbinian was a 7th century Frankish hermit and bishop. A bear that ate his pack-mule was instructed to carry his bags for the rest of his pilgrimage to Rome, apparently. 2022-11-25
St Achaz, 48.1099°, 11.5385=°. This is neo-baroque, completed in 1927 as a larger version of its predecessor of 1569. Achaz or Achatius could be any one of a dozen early Christian figures who were torn to pieces in a spiritually-inspiring fashion. 2022-11-25
Hansastraße, 48.1314°, 11.5304°. A street that has several striking modern buildings, especially ADAC (the German Automobile Association) at No 19, and Fraunhofer-Haus at No 27 (a research institute named for the fellow who discovered dark lines in the spectrum of sunlight). 2022-11-25
Westpark, 48.123°, 11.518°. It was created in 1983 to host an International Garden Expo. It's divided by Garmischer Straße and most sights are in the western part: the Rose Garden, the lake with open-air stage for summer concerts and films, a couple of beer gardens (see Drink), and a few exhibits surviving from those shown at Expo. These are the Chinese walled garden, a Japanese garden, Nepali and Thai pagodas and a Bavarian chalet. The eastern part, ranged along the serpentine Mollsee lake, recreates the Alpine foothill landscape south of the city. 2022-11-25
Waldfriedhof, Fürstenrieder Straße 288 (U-Bahn U6: Holzapfelkreuth), 48.1024°, 11.4917°, +49 89 231 99343. Nov-Feb 08:00-17:00, Mar 08:00-18:00, Apr-Aug 08:00-20:00, Sep-Oct 08:00-19:00. This is Munich's largest cemetery, opened in 1907, extended in the 1960s and still in use, with over 60,000 burial plots. As the name "Wald" indicates, it's a woodland cemetery, with memorials and the funeral chapel semi-hidden in the trees rather than dominating a bare lawn. Those here include ace fighter pilot Hans von Ritter (1886-1917), Stepan Bandera (1909-59) whose status as hero or right-wing terrorist changes with the Ukrainian political weather, Michael Ende (1929-95) author of the The Neverending Story which never did end once film and TV got hold of it, Paul Heyse (1830-1914) winner of the Nobel Prize for literature, film director Leni Riefenstahl (1902-2003), artist Franz Stuck (1863-1928), Admiral Alfred von Tirpitz (1849-1930) and playwright Frank Wedekind (1864-1918). 2022-11-21
Fürstenried Palace, 48.094°, 11.487°. This was built from 1715 for Elector Maximilian II Emanuel as a hunting lodge and bling-mansion. It's nowadays an RC spiritual centre, so other visitors can only admire the exterior and gardens. One who did so was Joseph Aloisius Ratzinger (b 1927), who found his vocation for the priesthood confirmed here, and became Pope Benedict XVI. 2022-11-25
St Ulrich, Lutzstraße 30 (S-Bahn: Laim), 48.1407°, 11.4996°. This may date from the 12th century. A new church was added in 1912-16, whereupon the original onion-domed church became a side-chapel. Ulrich was a 10th century Prince-Bishop in Augsburg and military leader against Magyar invasion. 2022-11-25
Blutenburg Castle (Schloss Blutenburg), Seldweg 15, off Verdistraße (S-Bahn S2: München-Obermenzing), 48.16320°, 11.45685°, +49 89 179080. Daily Apr-Sep 09:00-17:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-16:00. This was built in 1438 as a hunting lodge for Albert III, Duke of Bavaria. It was on a river island between two arms of the River Würm, with the east arm dammed to create an ornamental lake - leisure rather than defence was always the intention here, and the ring wall, towers and gatehouse weren't designed against serious assault. It was embellished and extended by Albert's son Duke Sigismund, the stand-out being the chapel of 1488 in late Gothic style. Since 1983 the castle has housed the International Youth Library (Internationale Jugendbibliothek) so there is limited public access to the interior. You enter through the gatehouse into the courtyard. A stepped ramp or "ox piano" leads to the upper courtyard, with the Herrenhaus or mansion. The castle often hosts concerts and other cultural events and has a restaurant. Just outside is a modern sculpture park: notable works are the Spanish stone cross, the "plastic-granite" blocks, the Joseph Michael Neustifter memorial, and the memorial to the 7000 sent on the death march from Dachau just ahead of the Allied advance. Free 2022-11-21
Hiob Monastery. This is Russian Orthodox. You can look in at the church and attend services. 2022-11-25

Do

DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum (Climbing and bouldering centre), Thalkirchner Straße 207 (U-Bahn U3: Thalkirchen (Tierpark)), 48.1073°, 11.5459°, +49 89 189 4163110, service@kbmuenchen.de. M-F 07:00-23:00, Sa Su 08:00-23:00. Large indoor bouldering and climbing centre, gets busy out of office hours. Adult €18, child €14.50 2022-11-23
Jogging and walking: one popular area is the long island ribbon between the Isar and the adjacent canal.
Gasteig HP8 📍 (U-Bahn: Brudermühlstraße) until 2027 is the home of the philharmonic orchestra and others displaced by the rebuilding of the Gasteig cultural complex in Haidhausen. HP8 refers to this temporary site at Hans-Preißinger-Straße 8.
Golf: Munich Golf Club main course is at Strasslach 15 km south of the city, 3 x 9-holes. However they also have a 9-hole course on the riverbank, 200 m south of Asam Schlössl restaurant and west side of Thalkirchen campsite.
Basketball: FC Bayern Munich, Audi Dome, Grasweg 74 (S-Bahn S7, S20 & U-Bahn U4, U5: Heimeranplatz), 48.1261°, 11.5254°, +49 89 200 57000, basketball@fcb.de. They're better known as a soccer club, but Bayern Munich also play in Basketball Bundesliga, the game's top tier. Their home court is Rudi-Sedlmayer-Halle, sponsored as Audi Dome. It seats 6700 and was built in 1972 for the Olympics. 2022-10-14
Sugar Mountain, Helfenriederstraße 12 (U-Bahn: U3 Machtlfinger Straße), 48.0974°, 11.5180°. Daily 11:30-22:00. Culture and activity centre in a disused concrete factory. Activities (many free) include fitness classes, bouldering, basketball and skatepark. Culture includes film, concerts, theatre, art exhibitions and warehouse raves. There's also a beer garden. In summer it hosts Kollektivgarten 3000 electro music festival. 2022-11-24
Feierwerk, Hansastraße 39 (S-Bahn & U-Bahn: S7, S20, U4, U5 Heimeranplatz, Bus: 62, 130, N43 Hansapark), +49 89 724880, kultur@feierwerk.de. Cultural centre in a former industrial depot with live music venues (Hansa 39, Kranhalle, Orangehouse, Sunny Red), a radio station (Radio Feierwerk 92.4 ), an artist's workshop (Farbenladen) and a skatepark (Skateplatzl). 2022-11-24
Langwieder lakes 📍 (S-Bahn S3: Lochhausen then Badebus) are three, accessed by Kreuzkapellenstraße off A8: Langwieder See itself, Lußsee and Birkensee. Thy were created by gravel extraction in the 1930s. You can swim, rent rowing boats or play minigolf. You can even scuba-dive to the narky depth of 8 m, ideal for beginners or skill-refreshers. The restaurant is open Tu-Th 17:00-23:00, F-Su 10:00-23:00 and has a beer garden, hotel rooms and campsite. The lakeshore gets busy on hot summer days.

Buy

Laim main supermarket is EDEKA, at Fürstenrieder 21 just south of the S-Bahn station. It's open M-Sa 07:00-20:00.
Sendling has four branches of EDEKA, similar hours.
Pasing Arcaden is south side of Pasing station on the S- and U-Bahn. It's a huge shopping mall over three floors, with stores open M-Sa 09:30-22:00. It's got pretty much everything including cheap eateries.
Sport Bittl, Georg-Reismüller-Straße 5 (S-Bahn S2: München-Allach), 48.1914°, 11.4668°, +49 89 892190. M-F 10:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-18:00. This is the main outlet of a chain of sports wear and equipment stores, specialising in mountain sports and biking. Their outlet in Laim remains closed. 2022-11-24
Wochenmarkt Solln (S-Bahn: Solln) is a food market held F 08:00-12:00 on Fellererplatz outside St Johann Baptist church, 100 m west of Al Caminetto restaurant.

Eat

Al Caminetto, Diefenbachstraße 39 (S-Bahn S7, S20: München-Solln), 48.078°, 11.5205°, +49 89 796180. Su-F 11:30-14:30, 17:30-22:00. Small restaurant run by two Sardinian ladies, mixed reviews for quality. 2022-11-23
Mangostin, Maria-Einsiedel-Straße 2 (100 m south of U-Bahn U3: Thalkirchen (Tierpark)), +49 89 723 2031. Daily 18:00-00:00. Excellent Thai and other Asian cuisine. 2022-11-22
Asam Schlössl, Maria-Einsiedel-Straße 45 (U-Bahn U3: Obersendling), 48.0943°, 11.5425°, +49 89 780 167790. Tu-Su 11:30-23:00. Upscale Bavarian restaurant and beer garden in an 18th century villa. 2022-11-22
Sendling restaurants cluster north of Harras S-Bahn station. They include Sendlinger Treff (dead link: January 2023) at Plinganserstraße 14A and Öeins Stemmerhof at No 6, Sendlinger Augustiner at Alramstraße 24, Tannengarten at Pfeuferstraße 32, and Ayurveda at Ganghoferstraße 76.
Laim offerings are mostly Italian and Greek. They include Taverna Anemos at Willibaldstraße 24, Ristorante Cleo corner of Genovevaweg, Laimers at Agricolastraße 16, Trattoria Lindengarten at Agnes-Bernauer-Straße 115 and Polatsch at No 98, Asado Steak at Landsbergerstraße 292, Il Cortile at Fürstenrieder Straße 8, Am Ziel at Aindorferstraße 137, Taverna München-Laim at Camerloherstraße 91 and Speis Zimmer at No 82, La Ruota at Gotthardstraße 8 and Gotthardgarten at No 1, Kadifekale at Elsenheimerstraße 2 plus Hoa Quynh at No 26 and Bami at No 49.

Drink

Cafés

Café Gans am Wasser, Siegenburger Straße 41 (S- & U-Bahn: U4, U5, S7, S20 Heimeranplatz), 48.1249°, 11.5305°, info@gansamwasser.de. Daily 10:00–18:00. Lakeside café in Westpark which often hosts live events. 2022-11-24

Beer gardens

Augustiner Schützengarten, Zielstattstraße 6 (S-Bahn S7, S20: München-Mittersendling), 48.1045°, 11.5347°, +49 89 724 68088, info@augustiner-schuetzengarten.de. Su-Th 11:00-23:00, F Sa 11:00-00:00. Pleasant beer hall and garden with 3000 seats serving Augustiner beer and trad food. On Sunday from 17:00 they have a live band. 2022-11-24
Hopfengarten, Siegenburger Straße 43 (S-Bahn S7, S20 & U-Bahn U4, U5: Heimeranplatz), +49 89 7608846. This 1500 seater beer garden is next to Audi Dome (see above) in Westpark and serves Löwenbräu. It remains closed in 2022. 2022-11-23
Insel Mühle, Von-Kahr-Straße 87 (S-Bahn S2: München-Untermenzing), 48.1764°, 11.4613°, +49 89 81010, hotel@inselmuehle.com. Apr-Oct daily 11:00-23:00. As the name indicates, this is a former mill on an island in the river Würm. In summer the 800-seater beer-garden serves Augustiner beer. The hotel and restaurant are open year-round. B&B double €130 2022-11-24
Rosengarten, Westendstraße 305 (Tram 18: Stegener Weg), 48.123°, 11.5086°, +49 89 578 69300, info@wirtshausamrosengarten.de. Daily 10:00-01:00. 1500-seater beer garden at the western end of the extensive Westpark (described above) serving Paulaner beer and trad food. 2022-11-24
Waldwirtschaft, Georg-Kalb-Straße 3, Pullach im Isartal (S-Bahn S7: Großhesselohe Isartalbahnhof), 48.067°, 11.5395°, +49 89 749 94030, info@waldwirtschaft.de. W-Su 11:00-23:00. 2500-seater riverside beer garden, a pleasant bike-ride from the city. They serve Spaten beer and have a self-service buffet for trad food, and you may bring your own food to barbecue and eat at table. The music is not oompah band but jazz. 2022-11-24
Zum Flaucher, Isarauen 8 (U-Bahn U3: Brudermühlstraße), +49 89 7232677, info@zum-flaucher.de. April-Oct. This restaurant and beer garden is near the south end of the large Flaucher island. It has 1700 seats, serves Löwenbräu beer, and is open in summer whenever the weather is okay for sitting outside. From the U-Bahn or Bus 54 stop, access the island via the R2 bridge. 2022-11-23

Bars & clubs

Alte Utting 📍: see Ludwigsvorstadt for this wacky venue on the railway tracks along the district boundary - a steam boat finds itself perched on the railway bridge. Beneath it is Zur Gruam bar and across the tracks is Bahnwärter Thiel.
Nachtgalerie, Landsberger Straße 185 (Tram 18, 19: Am Lokschuppen), 48.1405°, 11.5229°, +49 89 324 55595. F Sa 22:30–05:00. This club is in a former railway cargo terminal. It's primarily DJ's now and seldom live music. 2022-11-24
Nerodom (Der Schwarze Club / Black Club), Ganghoferstraße 74 (U-Bahn U4, U5: Schwanthalerhöhe), 48.1284°, 11.5386°, +49 89 776262, kontakt@nerodom.de. F Sa 21:00-04:00. By black they mean Goth, Wave, Industrial, Electro, Medieval or Black Meta. Dress black or you won't be allowed in. 2022-11-23

Sleep

Budget

Campingplatz Obermenzing, Lochhausener Straße 59 (S-Bahn S2: Untermenzing), 48.1742°, 11.4460°, +49 89 811 2235, book.campingom@outlook.de. Simple campsite open March-Oct, some noise from autobahn. Normally clean but gets mobbed and squalid during Oktoberfest. 2-person tent €20, caravan €30 2022-10-03
Camping Munich Thalkirchen, Zentralländstraße 49 (U-Bahn U3: Thalkirchen (Tierpark)), 48.0909°, 11.5449°, +49 89 7231707, info@campingmuenchen.de. Peaceful bosky campsite open March-Oct on the banks of the Isar. 2-person tent €23, caravan €34 2022-10-03
Hangover Hospital is an Oktoberfest pop-up glamping site within Thalkirchen campsite.
Munich Park Youth Hostel (DJH Jugendherberge München Park), Miesingstraße 4 (U-Bahn U3: Thalkirchen (Tierpark)), 48.0994°, 11.5436°, +49 89 785 76770, muenchen-park@jugendherberge.de. Well run place open year-round, for youth hostel association members only. 2022-10-03

Mid-range

ibis Munich City West, Westendstraße 181 (U-Bahn U4, U5: Westendstraße), 48.1348°, 11.5237°, +49 89 5794970. Reliable budget chain. B&B double €130 2022-11-22
Holiday Inn Munich South, Kistlerhofstraße 142 (U-Bahn U3: Machtlfinger Straße), 48.095°, 11.5158°, +49 89 780020. 320-room business hotel, concrete bunker from the outside, good service inside. B&B double €100 2022-10-03
Leonardo Hotel Munich City West, Brudermühlstraße 33 (U-Bahn U3: Brudermühlstraße), 48.1119°, 11.5479°, +49 89 724940, info.muenchenwest@leonardo-hotels.com. Efficient hotel with modern interior and a large roof terrace. B&B double €125 2022-10-03

Splurge

K+K Hotel am Harras, Albert-Rosshaupter-Straße 4 (S-Bahn S7 & U-Bahn U6: Harras), 48.117°, 11.5384°, +49 89 746400, harras@kkhotels.com. Clean comfy small hotel with good public transport. B&B double €120 2022-10-03

Connect

As of Nov 2022, the entire city of Munich has 5G from all German carriers. Wifi (WLAN in German) is widely available in public places.

Go next

Munich/Ludwigsvorstadt-Isarvorstadt is the central district just west. The big attractions are Deutsches Museum and Bavaria Statue & Hall of Fame. Oktoberfest is held in this district.
Munich/North across the railway tracks is extensive, but Nymphenburg Palace and park are near the boundary with the southwest.
Andechs has a monastery that brews a renowned beer.
Starnberg is an attractive lakeside resort.