Pangmapha (ปางมะผ้า) is a district in Mae Hong Son Province. Within the district is Soppong (สบป่อง), a small town with a predominantly ethnic Shan and hill tribe population on the road between Pai and Mae Hong Son. Pangmapha is less touristy and has a more traditional feel than Pai while boasting some excellent natural caves and interesting hill tribe villages.
Pangmapha is in northwestern Mae Hong Son Province, along the border with Burma. Better known is Soppong, a small village in a small valley in the Pangmapha District. Soppong is on the main road, between Pai and Mae Hong Son on the Mae Hong Son Loop. The village is a trading and market centre for the many hill tribe villages that populate the area. There are about 350 homes in the whole village area. The population is about 40% hill tribe (mostly Karen, Lisu and Lahu), 40% Burmese Shan, 20% Thai, as well as few Haw Chinese Muslim families.
The area does not attract many visitors, in contrast to Pai, 45 km away, which has become crowded with tourists and now contains more than 300 guesthouses and hotels. There are several guesthouses and restaurants in Pangmapha, but very few tourist-oriented businesses and shops, thus lending a traditional feel to the area. There are several ATMs in the village centre, but if your time is limited you might want to bring enough baht as they sometimes don't work for a several days due to failing connections.
The area offers fantastic do-it-yourself trekking in the abundance of mountains, caves, rivers, and jungle. Information on what to do and where to go is offered at "Border Bar" in the centre of the village, across from the market and bus stop, as well as at the guesthouses. The Cave Lodge has a particular abundance of information and organises a wide range of guided trips as well.
Buses depart from Chiang Mai throughout the day, and are available as either a bus or minibus. The buses cost 95 baht, are fairly cramped, fan only, and take about 6-7 hours. The mini-buses, in contrast, cost 250 baht, have much more comfortable seats, are air-conditioned, and take 4-5 hours. They have racks on top for luggage, so you will not have to buy an extra seat for your backpack as you have to on some other routes. The schedule for the two are as follows:
Minibus: 06:30 / 07:30 / 08:30 / 09:30 / 10:30 / 11:30 / 12:30 / 13:30 / 14:30
Regular bus: 07:00 / 09:30 / 12:30
From Pai: private minibuses leave from the small station next to walking street every hour or two and cost 100 baht, though the staff may try to ask for 150 baht. These do book out sometimes. Public buses or vans apparently leave from in front of the same bus stop, reportedly 60Baht.
Motorbike rentals for 200 baht per day are available at the Castrol Bike Point shop. Motorbike taxi drivers linger right in front of the market, and they have established set fares to most possible locations (e.g., 70 baht to Tham Lot or the Cave Lodge).
A car ride is available if you have lot of luggage or for small groups. The fare to the main cave or the nearby lodge is 300 baht. Ask at the bus station and the guy who runs it will get his car out for you.
Most guest houses will offer guided tours, either private or in small groups. The Cave Lodge (see the sleep section) has an extensive range of activities to offer and can provide detailed information and tips if you want to head out alone.
Hill tribe people set up in some public areas, and are eager to sell their crafts. A travelling market is set up every Tuesday morning along the road in the main market area, with hill tribe people coming down from the mountains to sell their produce and wares.
The guest houses and bars mentioned in the sections below all serve food as well, so make sure to check out those listings too. Overall, the food you'll find is simple but good, with some traditional Shan dishes here and there as well as a few Western options on the menus.
There are a few guesthouses around, and expectations are that others will follow as visitor numbers increase. Nights are cool here all year, so while most rooms come without air conditioning, it's unlikely you'll miss it much.
As in many regional Thai towns, there are many stray or pet dogs roaming the streets. The dogs are territorial and can be aggressive, especially at night, when in a pack, or when you are walking/cycling alone.
Primary administrative division