Pondicherry (officially Puducherry, also known as Pondy and Pondichérry) is a city and capital of the Pondicherry (officially Puducherry) union territory of Southern India. There is a strong French influence on the architecture of the city, especially in the old quarters, with rues and boulevards lined with Mediterranean-style houses and bakeries, although the city remains very much Indian. French is still understood, and the whole city makes for a pleasant mix of the East and the West.
Pondicherry, though small in geographical size, was the largest French colony in India. The city has a long and interesting history of trade and war. It is also known as The French Riviera of the East (La Côte d'Azur de l'Est). If you have spent some time in Tamil Nadu and approached Pondichérry by land, you will very likely experience mild culture shock on discovering French architecture and restaurants serving steak and good wine. Pondichérry is very much a city with a dual personality: crossing the central canal from the east to the west reveals two different cities with very different characters.
Tamil is the main language spoken in Pondicherry. The city was essentially a French possession in the Tamil-speaking area of the region. You need to be able to speak Tamil if you wish to live in Pondicherry.
Expect to be able to get quite far in South Asia as an English-speaking tourist. Persons in Pondicherry with a university education may be able to converse with you in English.
French is no longer an official language or widely spoken in Pondicherry and has been largely replaced by English, but can still be heard among upper class elderly persons raised during French colonial rule. However, the city's French heritage is considered an aspect of life in Pondicherry that draws tourists from the surrounding regions. Telugu and Malayalam are the two official languages, but their use is generally confined to specific communities.
Pondichérry is well connected from all sides. Chennai is 160 km north of the city.
You can also hire a taxi from Chennai International Airport. It costs around ₹2,500 (Indian rupees), as of August 2018.
The road from Chennai to Pondicherry (the East Coast Road, commonly called ECR) is a scenic highway and a normal journey would take about 3 hours. Most tourists, however, cannot resist the seashore kissing the ECR and take a number of stops en route. This route passes through Mahabalipuram, Kalpakkam, Pudupattinam, Idaikkazhinadu (Alamparai or Alambara Fort), Mudaliarkuppam, which has a boat house, Marakkanam (contains large areas under salt pans), and Kanagachettikulam/Kalapet.
Another road from Chennai to Pondy is National Highway 45 (NH45), also called the Grand Southern Trunk (GST) Road. This route passes through Tambaram, Chengalpattu, Madhurantakam, Melmaruvathur and Tindivanam.
The ECR Road and NH45 are tolled roads. The journey from Chennai to Pondichérry takes about the same amount of time on each road.
Pondichérry is about 320 km away from Bangalore. Drive down National Highway 7 (NH-7) till Krishnagiri, take a left off the main highway (road signs mark the route) and then take National Highway 66 (NH-66) to Pondichérry. This route passes through Uthangarai, Chengam, Tiruvannamalai, Gingee and Tindivanam. You can reach Pondicherry either through Tindivanam (via Gingee) or Villupuram (via Thirukovilur). Gingee Fort is also on the way to Tindivanam and worth spending some time at. It's an Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) Heritage site. The total travel time should be about 5-6 hours. Pack some food or snacks for the way as there are no good restaurants en route.
Pondichérry is well connected to Cuddalore, Chidambaram, Karaikal, Nagapattinam, Velankanni, etc. to the South by National Highway 45A (NH-45A). The road is well maintained till Chidambaram.
Pondichérry connects to the GST or NH-45 in two places: at Villupuram by NH-45A and at Tindivanam by NH-66.
There are many coaches connecting to Pondicherry from a variety of cities. Getting to Pondichérry involves a 3½-hour road journey from Chennai by bus. One can board a bus from Chennai Moffusil Bus Terminus (CMBT) in Koyambedu, Thiruvanmiyur or Guindy. You can be sure of getting a seat on the bus only if you board it from CMBT in Koyambedu, which is the main bus terminus in Chennai. However, the cheapest way of reaching Pondichérry from Chennai is taking the East Coast Road (ECR) bus from Tiruvanmiyur. The fare from CMBT is around ₹150 depending on the bus service. PRTC (Puducherry Road Transport Corporation) operates air-conditioned buses and the fare is ₹280. The ECR bus will drop you at the main bus terminal in Pondichérry, on Maraimalai Adigal Salai. Auto-rickshaws are available from outside the bus station. The fare can be bargained down to ₹50 to go to the French Quarter.
Nearly all cities in Tamil Nadu are connected to Pondicherry through cheap government buses that will stop at smaller towns and villages, though no centralized timetable exists and departure times and routes must be obtained from the nearest bus station to where you are. These buses will almost certainly arrive at the Pondicherry Bus Stand.
Private coaches will connect to Pondicherry from a variety of cities including Chennai and Bengaluru. The coaches along the ECR from Chennai are well frequented and a variety of coach types, from regular urban-city-bus to semi-sleepers and full-sleepers. There are long-distance coaches to Mumbai and other cities of India too. It is possible to find out which buses are available from redbus website.
Pondichérry is connected to Chennai by an electric broad gauge railway line through Villupuram. There are 2 passenger trains running daily to Chennai Egmore Railway station and Tirupati and there is a weekly express train service to Bhubaneswar. In addition to this, there is also a daily express train to Chennai Egmore. Puducherry is also connected by weekly trains to Delhi, Bangalore, Mumbai besides Mangalore, passing through Kerala.
Bangalore Yesvanthapur (YPR) to Pondichérry (PDY) is connected by a 3-tier AC train called Garibh Rath Express. It covers a distance of 456 km in each direction however it takes 10 hr 5 min when operating as train number 12255 at an average speed of 60 km/h (excluding halts). It leaves Puducherry as train number 12256 on Saturday at 22:05 and at the end of 8 halts arrives at Yesvanthapur the next day at 08:25. It leaves Yesvantpur as train number 12255 on Friday at 23:15 and at the end of 9 halts arrives at Puducherry the next day at 09:20. Coach Composition comprises 16 AC 3 tier coaches and 2 luggage cum generator coach taking the total up to 18 coaches.
Pondicherry station 📍 is centrally located along the South Boulevard.
Pondichérry has an airport with facilities for the landing of small aircraft like Dorniers and Cessnas. Spicejet operates daily flights from Hyderabad (with connections from other major Indian cities). Flights from Bengaluru also operate on a daily basis. Cabs meet arriving flights at the airport, and charge ₹350 to the centre of town. You can also take a 30-minute auto rickshaw from the airport to the centre of town. The rate for taking an auto rickshaw from within the airport complex to the city centre is about ₹150, as of Apr 2013. If you walk to outside the airport complex and flag down an auto you may be able to negotiate a better rate.
Chennai airport is the nearest international airport, which is approximately 135 km from Pondicherry. Chennai airport is nicely connected to major cities in India as well as abroad. A one-way cab ride from Chennai airport to Pondicherry is approximately ₹1,500, and takes around 3 hours.
Pondicherry has narrow streets reminiscent of Western Europe. It is highly advisable that you do not attempt to drive around in a car, and instead purchase or hire a two-wheeled transport vehicle, such as a bicycle or motorcycle. It can however be difficult to ride smoothly in Pondicherry due to significant number of pedestrians on smaller streets, while roads would likely be used by cars and trucks. Pedestrians have right-of-way in the city.
There are several rental outlets on Mission St and MG Rd. The prices as of January 2016 are ₹300/day for a gearless scooter, and ₹500/day for a geared motorcycle and ₹40-50/day for a bicycle. You will need to provide some identification document as collateral and an advance of ₹500 only in few rental service shops while rest of them provide without documents or advance. Make sure you check the cycle thoroughly before taking it on rent. Many of the rentals also provide delivery and pickup at the hotel which is very useful. (Usually the number of days for these vehicles are calculated 9AM-9PM.) The motorbikes are easily available in a couple of two-wheeler rental shops in Mission Street.
The Pondicherry tourism development corporation has daily bus services for tourists and it covers all the important tourist spots to be seen in Pondicherry. It is the best and most economic way to tour Pondichérry.
There is a sparse network of buses and shared-auto-rickshaws that can be ridden for ₹5-20 per ride depending on distance.
Shared-auto-rickshaws can be found at the bus stand, along certain points on Bussy Road and Grand Canal - the most common route is from the bus stand, along Bussy Road, around Grand Canal, and then back up Bussy Road to the bus stand - but be sure to ask if the auto goes to your destination as not all autos will follow this route. The services in informal and unorganized so it is impossible to centralise the timetables.
Bharati Park
Botanical Gardens, 11.9286°, 79.8226°, +91 413 233 9497. A nice park, though a little in disarray. Entry free An aquarium, maintained by the Directorate of Fisheries is also a must-see while in the Gardens. Entrance ticketed.
Chunnambar Boat House - (which is crowded on holidays and weekends) 10 km south of the city on the way to Cuddalore and connected by local buses. You can take a motorboat to Paradise beach from here.
Government Museum
Mahatma Gandhi's statue, Beach Rd, 11.93250°, 79.83625°.
Oustery Lake - (only as a view but not developed). Declared a bird sanctuary with boating run by tourism corporation
Paradise Beach - You need to hire a motorboat for pick up and drop to the beach from Chunnambar Boat house which will cost you around ₹200.
Puducherry New Light house- only between 3-5PM a nominal entry fee There is not much to do at the beach if you are travelling solo but a perfect place for romance.
The globe (matrimandir) Also known as the area of 'Peace' is a well-built globe with reflectors. You need to make booking in advance between 9AM and 4PM if you are a first-time visitor. Entry is free but only allowed on Sundays, and the place is strictly used for meditation.
People also often visit Auroville from Pondicherry City. Consult the guide for that town for more information.
There is not much one is expected to do at Pondichérry. You would understand this better once you get there and understand the pace of life.
You can also do some serious meditation at the Auroville, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, or going to Bharatanatyam performances that are often organized there by the Auroville Cultural Exchange in the local temples, or at major hotels.
You can also go fishing in a Catamaran or while away your evenings at the Rocky Beach. You can also hire scooters (mopeds) and go on long drives for the sandy beaches that dot the coast line.
You can also experience staying in a traditional 'Parapachai' house - an affectionate name given by connoisseurs to traditional green colored houses. First class experience.
Temple Adventures, 9, Archbishop Gandhi Street, Colas Nagar, 1st Road Opposite Indira Gandhi Stadium, +9199402 19449, dive@templeadventures.com. Scuba diving club. There is a great range of corals, lion fish, grouper, kingfish, moray eels, eagle and manta rays, parrot fish, sea snakes, triggerfish, butterflies, angels, bannerfish, crustaceans, and if you're lucky, even sharks, whale sharks, turtles and dolphins. 2016-09-01
Kallialay Surf School, Thandryankuppam, Kottakuppam, Villupuram, +91 9442992874, ride@surfschoolindia.com. Offers surfing lessons and surf board rentals. 2016-09-01
Pondicherry is known for its wide variety of cuisines ranging from South Indian delicacies like idly and dosa to seafood like fried fish, prawn bajji and parota.
French influence can be seen to some extent in the local food. The best options are still the local delicacies; the excellent seafood. Good French food is available at restaurants around the French part of town.
There are a multitude of liquor shops and wineshops around the city, perhaps owing to the French influence. Alcohol in Pondicherry is not taxed as it is in Chennai and is therefore significantly cheaper. At a takeaway shop, a beer should cost around ₹80-100 (as of 2017).
Good branded liquor like Smirnoff, Bacardi and different Scotch whiskies are very inexpensive as there is no sales tax in Pondicherry.
In addition to these listings, on the beach road abutting the French quarter enjoy fine dining in a good ambiance with continental and Indian cuisine, has a nice buffet on weekends. Mimicry artists will sometimes entertain you at your table.
Always carry passport with you and put a sticky note inside it with phone number of your travel consultant. Never pay anyone upfront, especially to agents or drivers.
Never exchange money with unauthorized foreign exchange dealers. Ask for receipt after exchanging money with the broker.
Don't get trapped in the narcotics trading, as no one wants to end his journey in prison. Switch off your mobile phones while in museums, temples and churches or they will be confiscated.
Wi-Fi can be difficult to find in Pondicherry. Many restaurants, even fancier ones, do not have Wi-Fi.
Pondicherry is allowed one French consulate as a special case, even though India's policy is generally to allow foreign missions only in Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai.
2nd-order administrative division
Primary administrative division