Puerto Escondido - city in Oaxaca

Puerto Escondido is a town in Oaxaca on the Oaxaca-Pacific coastline. It's known for its big waves and excellent surfing conditions. "Escondido" means "hidden", but in a well-connected world that's no longer true—blame Wikivoyage if you will. Nevertheless it remains small, friendly, and not too touristy.

Get in

By plane

• Puerto Escondido International Airport (IATA: PXM), 15.876667°, -97.088889°, +52 951 516 4982. Four daily flights from Benito Juárez International Airport (IATA: MEX) in Mexico City. 2022-05-11

Another alternative is flying into Huatulco (IATA: HUX) and taking a taxi to Puerto Escondido (~90-min drive, US$50-60 if you negotiate in advance).

Shared taxis (called colectivos) from the Puerto Escondido airport are cheap - about M$35 per person- and reasonably quick. The airport is close to town, but you may have to wait a few minutes as the colectivo driver waits to get a few more passengers, or drops one or two off ahead of you.

By bus

TuriStar and Estrella Blanca (dead link: August 2020) from Mexico City are the most comfortable and most expensive way to get here (M$500-900, 12 hours), traveling via Acapulco. These buses only leave from the South (Taxqueña) bus terminal. Other first class buses leave from both the North and South terminals, traveling via Puebla and/or Oaxaca City, and taking several hours longer than the buses via Acapulco.

More comfortable but longer are the buses leaving from the 2nd class bus station. Do not take a 1st class bus because the trip is over 15 hours – it takes the longest route. 2nd class buses take around 7-8 hours. There are also many buses from Acapulco. For example, the AltaMar bus line leaves from the Ejido terminal 7 times a day and takes 7-8 hours.

By shuttle van

A less expensive and faster alternative to the bus, two shuttle van companies do multiple daily runs between Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca (city). The very scenic route winds directly through the mountains with hairpin curves and takes about 6-7 hours depending on road conditions. Passengers who are inclined to get car sick should definitely take motion sickness tablets. There is a toilet and snack break about midway.

• Servicio Express (Express Service), Av 1a Norte s/n (ground floor of Hotel Luz del Ángel, on the corner of Av Oaxaca), 15.86362°, -97.06883°, +52 951-516-40-59. Hourly from 04:00-23:00. Offers daily service in 15-seat vans. M$209
• Transporte Villa del Mar, Av 1a Norte (between 2a Poniente and Tercera Ponienta, next to Cuff Minimart), 15.86315°, -97.07070°, +52 954 103 3134, lauren.zarate@hotmail.com. Hourly from 04:30-23:00. Offers daily service in 15-seat vans. M$170

By car

Highway 200 between Puerto Escondido and Acapulco is in fair-to-good condition and can be confidently driven with reasonable care - but watch for speed bumps. Highway 131, the direct road to Oaxaca, is in mediocre-to-poor condition, especially west of the mountains where the rains often wash away the highway. Do not attempt this road after nightfall, as there are sudden craters where the surface has slid away down the hillside, and it will be a serious accident if you tumble down after. Reckon 6 or 7 hours, do not hurry even though local traffic often overtakes you - they know where the booby-traps are.

Get around

Bus

Frequent local buses (urbanos) ply the main roads. There is no route map, but all buses have their destination painted on the windscreen and pass through the crucero 📍 (at the intersection of Carr. Costera and Av. Oaxaca). The fare is M$5 (Sep 2014) for a single ride, no transfers.

Taxi

The fixed price for a taxi in town is M$30-50 (Sep 2014) for the airport and Bacocho beach. Night rates are M$35 (Sep 2014). Some taxis will charge more than the going rate if you do not specify M$30 before the ride. A taxi from the airport to Punta Zicatela should cost you M$200 (Nov 2021), although this very much depends upon your Spanish negotiating skills and will often cost significantly more. You may be able to hire a cab driver for the day for about M$800 (Jan 2008).

Shared taxis (colectivos) travel along fixed routes that can be difficult to decipher, but all tend to travel through the crucero in El Centro and can be easily caught along the main road by giving a wave. The fixed price is M$10 (Nov 2021) within town.

Car

There are lots of great spots to visit if you have a vehicle, such as the nearby lagoon of Chacahua, the nudist beach of Zipolite, beach towns like Puerto Angel and Huatulco, all within two hours of Puerto Escondido.

• Budget Rent-A-Car, charge hefty rental fees for their fleet of subcompact manual transmission cars. They may also have some minivans available.

See

• Watch the sunset above La Punta - walk to the southern end of La Punta beach and walk around the cliff to a small rocky beach. From here you will see a lighthouse on the left and a small rocky hill on the right. Walk to the rocky hill and make the simple climb to the grassy top. From the top you will have a great view of the sunset and both beaches to your right and left. If the tide is high, you will not be able to walk around the cliff however there is a small path above it which you can follow. Be sure to bring some beers with you.

Do

Surf

You can take lessons if you're a beginner – try one of the friendly surf instructors on any beach or at one of the surf shops. Female instructors are available for those who may find the roaming hands of some of the male instructors a bit more than just being friendly.

• Playa Zicatela, 15.8432°, -97.0509°. This is the location of the famous Mexican Pipeline, with several international surfing competitions being held here annually. This beach is only for expert surfers and very strong swimmers; even experienced surfers have been injured here, and many people have drowned. The southern end of the beach near Punta Zicatela has consistently good waves. If you don't surf, you should at least make it over to the beach restaurant Los Tios and have a beer on the beach while you watch people surfing in the sunset. This is also a good place from which to watch over breakfast when there's a surf competition on.

Swim

• Playa Carrizalillo, 15.85959°, -97.07864°. The best and safest beach for swimming is Playa Carrizalillo. Take a taxi unless you want a half-hour walk. Carrizalillo is small, gorgeous, and not too crowded, 167 steps from street level down to the beach (then back up again). There are some surfers and some boats, but mainly swimmers enjoying the waves. This is a good beach for swimming or learning surfing with few restaurants. 2022-01-05
• Playa Manzanillo, 15.8581°, -97.0731°. A good, pleasant beach for swimming, with a few beachside restaurants with loungers. Visitors can use the loungers for free provided they purchase a drink or food from the restaurant.
• Playa Principal, 15.8597°, -97.0610°. This beach is good for swimming and boogie boarding, and very popular with locals.

Scuba dive

You're in the Pacific for heaven's sake. If you don't try scuba-diving here then where? And Pacific Mexico is an example of a place where diving really scores over just snorkeling. That said, do check on day-to-day conditions - sometimes the Pacific really isn't terrific, as storms far out to sea can kick up the visibility. But when it's good, it's great.

• Deep Blue. Two-tank dive US$70, single dive $40.

Other activities

• Temazcal. Try an indigenous type of steam-bath known as a temazcal. Sit in a small building with heats that go up to 49°C and then either be covered in towels or dunked into cold water.
• Boat trip. One of the most exhilarating experiences for non-surfers is the boat trip into the ocean to catch a glimpse of the wildlife; in particular, the turtles and dolphins. A few tour operators run similar trips out into the Pacific in search of the animals. More often than not, you get a glimpse of the turtles and, if you're lucky enough, the tour guide sometimes jumps in and catches hold of one! Unperturbed, the creatures come onto the boat for some photos and free food courtesy of the tour guide. It's kind of surreal, but incredible. Less often, you will get to see the packs of dolphins arching over the surface. Again, it is an amazing experience and well worth the money. About M$300 on average
• Fishing. Another good ocean-based activity is the regular fishing trips you can go on. For the keen fisherman, this is a dream activity. The waters host vast amounts of species of fish including tuna, marlin and red snapper. It isn't the cheapest (some operators can charge around M$1,000) but you can sometimes get a deal that your catch gets cooked at a local restaurant for your eating pleasure in with the cost.
• Skydiving. During the high seasons you can do a sky dive at the Zicatela beach for M$2600. It's one of the nicest places in the world to do this. They're just left of Café Babylon.
• Cascada de la reforma. Cool down from the heat in Puerto Escondido in a waterfall located about one hour outside Puerto Escondido. There are tours which will take you all the way but it's a bit inaccessible due to quality of the road. The waterfall offers basins in which it's possible to swim and a simple restaurant which serves local food.
• Turtle sanctuary. From July to September thousands upon thousands of olive ridley sea turtles wade ashore to lay their eggs at Playa Escobilla, between Puerto Escondido and Mazunte. Prices vary, and you can shop around, but from Puerto Escondido day trips normally cost around M$500. Regardless of your tour operator, you will be escorted by a friendly but watchful local guide.

Buy

• Mercado Benito Juarez, Between 8a and 9a Norte, and 3a and 4a Poniente, 15.8699°, -97.0743°. Daily; on Wednesdays and Saturdays fresh produce is delivered from elsewhere in Oaxaca. A typical Mexican market with everything on offer, including fresh fish and produce, kitchenware, and clothing.
• Artesanias El Adoquin, Adoquín pedestrian mall. Gifts and clothing from Thailand, Indonesia and Mexico. Local and imported home furnishings and accessories.
• Surf shop Puerto Escondido, Benito Juárez #7, Rinconada, +52 954 582 1445. Surfing accessories, board repairs, surf tours, surf lessons for beginners, surfboards for sale, and last but not least, a Spanish language school.
• Odyboards Surf Shop & Factory, Av Justo Salvador, 15.8367°, -97.03939°, +52 954 101 1058, ody@odyboards.com. M-Sa 10:00-17:00. Large selection of new, used surfboards and accessories in Puerto Escondido. Custom boards are available.

Groceries

• Chedraui, Av Oaxaca 105, 15.86255°, -97.06749°, +52 800 925 1111. Daily. The largest grocery store in town, this carries all necessities and also has a pharmacy.
• Mini Super Rubi, 15.84176°, -97.04330°. Daily. A well-stocked smaller grocery store which caters to the gringo market.
• 7+1 Mini-Super, 15.84337°, -97.04377°. Daily. Mini Super Rubi's twin, across the street.

Eat

Budget

City center

• El Sultan, Benito Juárez, Rinconada, 15.8617420°, -97.0773042°. 2022-08-01
• Comedor Tere, Del Pacífico 407, 15.8627788°, -97.0720028°. 2022-08-01
• Pepe's Fish Tacos, Primera Sur 127, 15.8627446°, -97.0649030°. 2022-08-01
• The JP Bunker, 71980, Calle Primera Pte. 305, 15.8655840°, -97.0701843°. 2022-08-01
• Antojitos Regionales Las Juquileñas, Calle Octava Nte., 15.8698200°, -97.0720092°. 2022-08-01
• Tacos Paco, 71984, Frente Al Sol, 15.8728518°, -97.0764134°. 2022-08-01
• Comedor doña China, 17 de Octubre 708, 15.8692131°, -97.0694145°. 2022-08-01
• Taqueria Rosy, Av. Oaxaca 103, 15.8625102°, -97.0681250°. 2022-08-01

Punta Zicatela

• Chilango-Taco, Calle Alejandro Cardenas Peralta (Brisas de Zicatela), 15.84179°, -97.0433°. M-Sa 13:30-23:00. An authentic (and authentically cheap) family-run Mexican restaurant worthy a try for its flavor, prices and lovely service. A nice break from the gringo-oriented restaurants in La Punta. M$15–80 mains

Mid-range

• La Galería, Av Alfonso Pérez Gazga s/n (Adoquín), 15.86066°, -97.06512°, +52 954 582 2039. Daily 08:00-23:00. Good Italian food, especially pizzas. 2022-08-01
• Restaurante de Hotel Santa Fe, Calle Del Morro s/n (in the Hotel Santa Fe), 15.85782°, -97.05873°, +52 800 712 7057, info@hotelsantafe.com.mx. Daily 07:30-23:00. Set beneath a palapa with great ocean views, this places serves not only Mexican favorites but also an extensive listing of vegetarian dishes. M$100-150 mains (Sept 2014) 2022-08-01
• Restaurante El Cafecito, Calle del Morro s/n (Playa Zicatela, near Rinconada), 15.85243°, -97.05504°, +52 954 582 0516. Daily 06:00-23:00. Has great club sandwiches with fresh avocados, good salads, and even soy burgers. Good coffee. Very popular for breakfast, expect to stand in line to get seated at late mornings. M$58-128 (mains)
• Flor de Maria, Calle 1ra. Entrada a Playa Marinero s/n, 15.8603°, -97.0597°, +52 954 582 0536, pajope@hotmail.com. Hotel restaurant, open only during the high season from mid-December to mid-March. A half-liter of the house wine is more expensive than any of the meals. Service is very good. 2022-04-01

Splurge

• Almoraduz Cocina de Autor, Benito Juárez 12, 15.8617336°, -97.0776381°. 2022-08-01

Drink

• BarFly, Calle del Morro s/n (a couple of blocks down the street from Casa Babylon), 15.85202°, -97.05483°. Tu-Su 10:00-04:00. Dancing until 02:00.
• Casa Babylon, Calle del Morro s/n (off of Playa Zicatela), 15.85462°, -97.05633°, +52 954 582 0875. Daily 09:00-02:00. They make really good mojitos and there's sometimes lots of cool beautiful people there.
• Congo Bar, Av Perez Gasca 605 (On the Adoquin, 20m from Playa Principal), 15.86151°, -97.06325°, bar.congo@yahoo.com. Tu 18:30-02:00, W 20:00-04:30, Th-Su 18:30-02:00. Live music, cheap drinks amazing environment.
• La Piedra de la Iguana, Calle del Morro s/n (Playa Zicatela), 15.84999°, -97.053920°. Good after-hours bar.
• Uh La La.

Sleep

There are numerous other hotels on Zicatela with great beachfront locations and moderate to downright cheap rates, especially off-season during spring and early summer. For longer stays such as one month or longer renting an apartment is also an option.

• Aldea del Bazar Hotel & Spa, Blvd. Benito Juárez s/n (Lote 7, Fracc. Bacocho), +52 1 954 582 0508. Feel at home in their clean, spacious rooms. Each is amply appointed with the essentials to ensure you of comfortable rest throughout your stay. Some of its facilities and services includes a sun terrace, swimming pool, free Wi-Fi, car rental, and facilities for disabled. Room rates start at M$850
• Blater Hotel, Calle del Morro S/N Col. Santa María, +52 954 582 0797. Standard single, double, and suite with A/C, cableTV and WiFi. Restaurant, swimming pool, snack bar and room service.
• Bungalows Santa Cruz, Calle Del Morro N/N, Apartado, +52 954 582 4700. Bungalows and suites with A/C, balcony and internet. Outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, massage services and car rental.
• Bungalows Zicatela, C/ del Morro s/n (Zicatela beach), 15.85424°, -97.05610°, +52 954 582 0798, +52 954 582 0799, +52 771 130 0931 (Whatsapp), bungalowszicatela@hotmail.com. Check-in: 07:00-24:00, check-out: 12:00. Has two pools, a bar and restaurant. Good views and the staff are friendly and helpful. Ask for room #13 and get their least expensive room. Doubles M$813 and up 2016-05-28
• Casamar Suites Hotel, Calle Puebla 407 (Brisas de Zicatela), 15.8379°, -97.0449°, +52 954 582 2593. American-owned, has 18 self-catering studio, 1- and 2-bedroom apartments, all set around a lovely garden and pool. The owner is very helpful and can help arrange tours, call a taxi, or even give you a ride into town. Pets accepted (M$100/night). M$423 and up per night; weekly and monthly rates available
• Hotel Barlovento, 6a. Sur No. 3, Col. Sector Hidalgo, +52 954 582 0101. Hotel Barlovento offers single, double and triple rooms with air-conditioning, TV with cable channels and phone. Its facilities include bar, restaurant and wireless internet connection at the reception area.
• Hotel Casa Blanca, Avda Perez Gasga, 904 (on the main tourist rd), 15.86176°, -97.06326°, +52 954 582 0168, hotelcasablancaptoesc@gmail.com. Check-in: 12:00-13:00, check-out: 11:00-12:00. Has 22 rooms with single to quintuple occupancy. Outdoor pool and restaurant. Surfing lessons and ecological tours on request. Free WiFi. M$350 and up 2016-05-28
• Hotel Ines. Offers rooms ranging from about US$18-70/night off-peak. US$70 can get you an A/C double room with a balcony near the front of Ines, looking right over the beach, while US$18-35 can get you simple rooms with a fan and private shower, but not necessarily a full bathroom.
• Hotel Rincón del Pacífico, Av. Pérez Gasga No. 900, Col. Centro, +52 954 582 00 56. Rincón del Pacífico provides fan room - triple, fan room - quadruple and aircon room - quadruple with TV with cable channels, telephone and complimentary breakfast. Its facilities include bar, restaurant and wireless internet access.
• Hotel Rockaway. Offers rooms ranging from about US$18-70/night off-peak. US$70 can get you an A/C double room with a balcony near the front of Ines, looking right over the beach, while US$18-35 can get you simple rooms with a fan and private shower, but not necessarily a full bathroom.
• Hostel Shalom, Playa Carallizo. Isreali managed hostel next to Playa Carillizo, only 200 m from the beach.
• Suites La Hacienda, Atunes 15 Col Rinconada, +52 954 582 0279. Spacious hacienda style home with 7 suites, all have A/C, cableTV, fully equipped kitchen and free continental breakfast. Patio, a swimming pool in a tropical garden, and a lounge area. From M$1,320
• Mayflower Hotel and Youth Hostel, Andador Libertad (near Playa Pricipal). Oldest hostel in town, fairly average in most ways. Great location near a beach - though often a very packed one. 11PM curfew.
• Quinta Carrizalillo Villas, Fraccionamiento Rinconada Focas 5 (corner of C/ Delfines), 15.86253°, -97.07769°, +52 954 582 3564. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00-13:00. A/C suites, cableTV, coffee/ tea maker, and a safe. Free Wi-Fi and parking. From M$850 2016-05-28
• Hotel Santa Fe, Calle Del Morro s/n (Playa Zicatela), 15.85782°, -97.05873°, +52 954 582 0170, info@hotelsantafe.com.mx. Rooms with A/C, TV, internet. Outdoor swimming pool, restaurant, massage services. M$1160
• Tower Bridge Hostel, Calle Oceano Atlantico (5 min from the Benito Juarez market). A fair bit outside the town centre. Kitchen, pool table, internet, M$10 Coronas and cable TV. Surfing lessons available, Spanish school is nearby. OK, but has a worn look, and cleanliness and security is not their strength, no lockers. Good vibe in the evening, individually themed staff. Bungalows for 2 people M$200
• Villa Bonobo, Calle Julio César MZ10 (On the hill above Punta Zicatela), 15.83127°, -97.03698°, +52 951 160 2931, info@bonobo.mx. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A highly-rated hostel, a little farther out than most, that offers mainly private rooms since the pandemic. Has a fantastic view out over Zicatela beach and the ocean. Outdoor swimming pool, kitchen, bar (open on select nights), beer fridge, rooms with A/C and internet. Private rooms from $M1,200. Dorms from $M460

Stay safe

Due to assaults and knife-point robberies, the beaches should be avoided from dusk until dawn; this especially applies to Playa Principal and Playa Bachoco. If you do not have a companion with you, it is best to not carry valuables on some of the more isolated stretches of beach even during the daytime.

Connect

Connectivity in Puerto Escondido is surprisingly poor for a city of its size and growing popularity. As general rule, internet service gets worse the farther you are from El Centro. For example, in Punta Zicatela connections can be quite spotty, particularly on weekends during the high season when demand often exceeds capacity. Locations nearer to the center are not exempt from poor service, however, and even the city’s mobile data network has been known to fail for hours at a time. Should you find yourself in dire internet straits, usually your best bet is to change locations within the city. There are several internet cafes and coworking spaces available, including:

• Casa Losodeli & Coworking, Prolongación 2a. norte s/n, 15.86337°, -97.07246°, +52 954 177 5430. A popular cafe, coworking space and hostel in El Centro. 2021-11-12
• Selina Puerto Escondido, Av. Del Morro 4, Playa Zicatela, 15.85746°, -97.05803°, +52 954 137 7020. A hostel on Playa Zicatela with a cafe and coworking space. 2021-11-12

Telcel has the best mobile coverage in the area, although it drops off quickly as you leave the central city. Expect one or two bars at best in Punta Zicatela. You can buy a SIM card at various locations around town. Typically the most convenient for tourists (as opposed to locals and businesses) is the Telcel store located on Av. Oaxaca across from the Chedraui supermarket.

Go next

• Mazunte - A nearby town with less tourism than Puerto Escondido and quiet beaches, on the Pacific Coast Backpacker Route. Famous for its National Sea Turtle Museum.
• Zipolite Mexico's only "official" nude beach. Popular since the 1960s and still has its hippy vibe. A beach where you loose track of time.
• Chacahua National Park - Good for surfing and for bird watching, as well as exploring the mangroves with a guide by canoe. It's best to spend the night there so that you can take the canoe trip at sunset.