This kimono buying guide is aimed at the average traveller in Japan looking to purchase a kimono as a gift, a souvenir, or as something to wear occasionally. It is aimed mainly at budget travellers looking to purchase a kimono and other accessories for the first time, and intends to inform those looking to buy an authentic kimono for the first time. For this reason, we're going to focus on buying second-hand kimono.
First off, a clarification on what a kimono is and what a kimono isn't. A kimono (着物) is a wrapped-front, T-shaped garment. When wearing a kimono, it is typically worn with an underkimono known as a juban, which look slightly different to outer kimono. Kimono vary in size, shape, and season. Originally, the kimono was strongly influenced by the clothing styles that were popular in China during the Tang Dynasty (roughly corresponding to the Nara period in Japanese history), but since then has evolved in its own uniquely Japanese way.
A kimono is usually worn with a number of accessories used to hold it together or accessorise it. It's a mostly flat garment with minimal shaping, and folds down into a small, flat rectangle for storage.
Kimono vary based on occasion, but there's a kimono for every situation – see this chart for help. Kimono are also seasonal, varying in pattern, color and fabric based on the time of year. Take note of what's seasonably and formally appropriate when you're going to buy or wear a kimono. Some kimono can be dressed up in formality, but they generally can't be dressed down.
In the modern day, you're most likely to see people wearing kimono to special occasions or summer festivals; they're not commonly worn as everyday clothing. However, some people do wear them frequently as regular clothes, such as sumo wrestlers, geisha, and kimono enthusiasts. There are very few occasions at which you'd be required to wear a kimono – except, of course, to a meeting of kimono enthusiasts.
Kimono are made in a number of different materials. Contrary to belief, not all kimono are silk – and not all silk kimono are the same.
Kimono also have a variety of sleeve lengths. Though men's and women's kimono have visually similar sleeve lengths, this wasn't always the case. Pre-World War II women's "short" kimono sleeves are noticeably longer than their modern-day counterparts.
Going back to the Edo period, there were also more varieties of kimono sleeve for both men and women; some had entirely rounded edges and were connected wholly to the body, whereas others were almost tubular, and featured a triangular gusset under the arm. Many of these older kimono sleeve types were developed for practicality, and would be worn by men and women who worked practical jobs. In the earlier Edo period, young boys and girls alike wore long, furisode-length kimono sleeves, as longer sleeves were a sign of youth. These sleeves would be shortened as they came of age. Extant examples of war-time kimono, some modern children's kimono, and the kimono worn by laborers and farmers still show the much shorter, at times tube-like sleeves worn in previous centuries for practicality or cost.
Kimono are different for men and women. Men's sleeves are a bit shorter, sewn mostly to the body, with a square edge. The bit of sleeve not sewn to the body is sewn shut. Women's sleeves are only attached to the body at the shoulder, are open down the rest of their length at the back, and have a rounded edge. Women's kimono should be as tall as the person wearing them; men's kimono should be as tall as the shoulder to ankle measurement.
Kimono are typically made to measure – and so aren't one size fits all. Vintage kimono are especially small, though looking at vintage photos of people wearing kimono, you soon realise that it's okay if it doesn't fit exactly – many photos show sleeves that don't even go to the wrist in length. Some adjustments are possible when dressing in a kimono, even for shorter pieces; some women wear vintage or otherwise too-short pieces without the horizontal hip fold known as the ohashori, which is otherwise required for women's kimono.
However, some kimono can be bought ready to wear – and it's not a new concept, either. Ready-to-wear kimono first became popular following the Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923, in which so many people lost their possessions that off-the-rack kimono made of meisen (literally, "common silk stuff" – woven from machine-spun, partially degummed silk thread otherwise unusable for fine kimono) became immediately popular, particularly those dyed and woven in the Art Deco or Taishō Roman style. Ready-to-wear kimono have existed ever since, and are still sold to this day, though formal kimono are still made to a person's measurements when bought new.
Some kimono have wider collars, which are known as hiro-eri ("unfolded collar"), as opposed to bachi-eri ("folded collar"). These collars are designed to be folded in half lengthwise before being worn. You can, for convenience, just sew them down before dressing – though note that the collar is not evenly folded in half all the way along its length. It's generally wider towards the ends, though not by much.
Not every kimono is lined, and not every lining is silk. Unlined kimono are known as hitoe kimono, and lined kimono are called awase kimono. Casual kimono made of fabrics like tsumugi, wool, and cotton might also be lined in cotton or wool, sometimes both. You can identify a pre-1960 kimono by its red silk lining: the fabric is called momi, which literally means 'red silk'; typically dyed with safflower (benibana) dye, it's identifiable for its orangey-red tones.
Mourning clothes
Do you have a plain solid-black kimono, where the only decoration is either one, three or five family crests (kamon) along the shoulders? That's what's known as mofuku: mourning clothing. Unless you really know what you're doing, it's likely best not to wear this while you're out and about in Japan.
Some mourning clothes have an extremely subdued grey pattern, but mourning clothing is generally identifiable by its sombre appearance.
The blanket term used to describe all types of traditional Japanese clothing is wafuku (和服). You also might hear someone referring to "kitsuke", particularly amongst Western kimono enthusiasts – literally meaning "dressing", this term is used to describe how someone wears their kimono. "Her kitsuke was so perfect" would be a compliment, while "His kitsuke was very sloppy. Did he get dressed in the dark?" obviously would not.
There are several different types of kimono; some are usually only worn by women, but as trans, nonbinary and gender nonconforming people exist in Japan as well as the rest of the world, once you know the ropes well, it wouldn't be frowned upon to wear whatever kimono took your fancy, regardless of gender.
Before you buy, be warned that you should consider how you're going to care for your kimono before you buy it; some kimono require a lot of care, vintage pieces especially. If you don't look after it, you'll have wasted your money – so be sure to look at the Care section of this article before you spend your cash.
You can use this chart here as a quick reference for what is and isn't acceptable in terms of formality.
Yukata make good souvenirs and gifts because they are cheap, easy to wear, and easy to buy brand-new in different sizes, including larger sizes. You can also find second-hand yukata – be sure to look out for second-hand shibori yukata, as they're less commonly sold second-hand, and are highly prized.
Though most kimono are very expensive brand-new, you can pick up second-hand ones very reasonably for around ¥15,000. Though museum-quality examples of kimono from certain decades can go for upwards of US$7000, most second-hand pieces are, if bought from the right places, quite cheap and entirely affordable. (The problem is not buying too many of them!)
There are also garments related to the kimono that might make good souvenirs and/or gifts.
Here's some tips on what kimono aren't, and how to avoid fake kimono:
If you're still unsure, and feel like you'd be unable to tell the difference between a real or a fake kimono – you're best off going to shops that aren't aimed at tourists. That's the easiest way to avoid fake kimono.
A kimono can be an elaborate outfit, consisting of a number of elements, to the point where it's actively easier to have someone else dress you rather than try to dress yourself; or, it can be simple enough that you only need a handful of items to have a finished outfit. When you are wearing a kimono, be sure to always wrap it left over right; doing it the other way round is a major faux pas as that is only done when dressing the dead.
(Once in a blue moon, two genuine kimono or obi that look the exact same do come along – these aren't fakes! The most common obi "twins" seem to be fukuro obi. These "twin" kimono or obi may appear identical, or with the same design, but in different colors – these are either widely-produced pieces, or ones commissioned by someone in two different colors at the same time.)
Men and women will need different things in order to dress themselves; unfortunately, men have it far, far easier. (Unless you believe gender is a construct. Then go wild. Non-binary people exist in Japan as well.)
The basic elements you'll need, no matter what type of kimono you're wearing, or what your gender identity happens to be, are:
Do you have an obi that's a plain, solid black, with no design other than a woven pattern? That is what's called mofuku – mourning clothes. Lucky you, these obi are easy to turn into ones wearable everywhere with a bit of fabric paint or embroidery, but if you're in Japan, it's best not to wear solid-black obi unless you really, truly know what you're doing.
Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending on your gender identity and kimono choices), men don't need the same number of kimono dressing aids as women. And by this, it's meant that they don't need any kimono dressing aids, above a couple of koshihimo and an obi.
There are of course a multitude of other accessories you can buy – from bags, to the fur stoles that young girls wear around their necks for Coming of Age day, to hairpins (known as kanzashi), underwear and others.
Some good news. You can pick up a 100% authentic kimono, including all of these elements, quite cheaply – for less than ¥10,000 yen by frequenting second hand stores. If you're going for the cheap option, here's a rough budget:
Total: about ¥6000.
For anything but tea ceremony and the more formal occasions, you aren't honour-bound to wear geta or zōri – a smart boot or shoe will work just fine.
If this is your first time purchasing kimono, it's a good idea not to go above ¥20,000 in total; if you end up collecting kimono, your tastes will change, and if you don't, you still may want to sell what you bought on one day. There's also some things you will need to keep in mind when scouring for your first, or otherwise, kimono purchase:
Broadly speaking, there are three places you can buy kimono from in-person.
Firstly, there are little antique shops selling old clothing known as furugi. You'll find a number of these in older shopping districts like Shimokitazawa in Tokyo; however, many of them focus on Western vintage clothing as well. Avoid Harajuku; it's a tourist trap, and you won't find any deals there. It's entirely possible to find nice items in these little shops, but it does take some ferreting around, and you really need to know how much to spend so you don't come away bested by an antiques dealer. You're also unlikely to come away with all the things you need for a full outfit.
Secondly, there are established shops in larger cities that cater exclusively to selling second-hand kimono, such as Sakaeya in Tokyo. The advantage of these shops is the visible price on the garments; antiques shops likely won't have this, and will require some haggling. These second-hand shops will likely have all the elements you'll need for a kimono, which is handy if you're not planning on looking forever through every single establishment. You'll find some good second-hand kimono shops in Tokyo, and surprisingly, a weekend-only, family-run stall located on Omotesando in Harajuku, where the staff speak some English and sell kimono on at a reasonable price – ¥2000 is likely enough to net a kimono.
Outside of larger cities, you can reliably find second-hand kimono by going to so-called "recycling" (risaikuru (リサイクル)) shops. One of the larger chains is Hard Off, and they will almost invariably have a section of kimono, often a number of reasonably attractive pieces at a reasonably attractive price. The prices are clearly stated on the garment, and with no haggling allowed, this is an easily accessible option for the average tourist.
You'll soon find that the problem with buying kimono isn't the kimono itself – it's locating everything you need to go with it, and finding a juban that fits is one of the biggest issues you're likely to run into. You may have to try and get one of these from Yahoo Auctions in Japan, or other online retailers. In previous years, one of the best online retailers to find kimono was Ichiroya (dead link: January 2023), run by married couple Ichiro and Yuka Wada; sadly, they closed down in early 2020, though both owners can still be found online in various kimono enthusiast Facebook groups. Their listings, staff and email newsletters were well regarded for the quality and depth of their information on kimono, and many have been archived through the WayBack Machine or archive.today (dead link: December 2020); though the shop has closed, the archived listings are an excellent resource of knowledge.
Brand-new kimono can be very expensive, requiring multiple fittings from a specialist tailor, and can cost upwards of ¥200,000; more so for kimono made by well known artists, often designated as Living National Treasures. Traditional kimono selling shops are known as gofukuya – and they have a reputation for being difficult to buy from.
Gofukuya sell kimono in fabric-bolt form, after which you pay an extra fee for the kimono to be sewn, and perhaps others for the fabric to be washed and treated; the price tag on the bolt of fabric, therefore, isn't the final cost. Be aware that if you enter a gofukuya, it is considered extremely rude not to buy something – even if it's something very small, such as tabi socks or an obijime.
One famous place to get a brand new kimono is the kimono department of Mitsukoshi's flagship store in Tokyo – other department stores may also feature shops with brand new kimono for sale.
Okay, you've got all the stuff. If you're going to wear your kimono, you're confident that nothing has been missed off the list; you've checked and double-checked a list to make sure that your outfit's going to be the exact right formality.
Now what?
If you want to actually wear the thing, there's a number of challenging things. The most most challenging, straight off the bat, will appear to be tying the obi, but you're also – if you're wearing a kimono with a juban underneath, and not just a yukata – going to have to contend with collars wandering off and getting lost.
The best way to learn is to start simple. Start with any knot tied with a hanhaba obi; though the taiko musubi is more common ("musubi" meaning "knot"), it requires more components, so start small, and half-width. The absolute simplest knots you can try are likely the karuta musubi (literally, "playing card knot") and the chocho musubi (literally, "butterfly knot").
It's worth noting that if your kimono doesn't fit, you're going to struggle a lot more to get it to look right when worn. Kimono aren't one size fits all, and a kimono that's too big around the hips, or too long in length, is going to present you with extra problems – though you can find guides on the internet to help with these issues. Chayatsuji Kimono's blog and YouTube channel are not only excellent kimono resources, but also incredibly helpful for taller people attempting to get too-short kimono to work – take a look there if you're struggling. There are also guides for larger people looking to make kimono work for them – so don't assume you can't wear them from the get-go!
There are a number of different places you can learn about wearing kimono; in the past, this was generally from well-respected books such as Norio Yamanaka's Book of Kimono, but in the present day, with the magic of the internet, your sources are wider, and also English-speaking.
As well as Chayatsuji Kimono on blogspot, Facebook and YouTube, try looking at Billy Matsunaga's YouTube channel – both are excellent kitsuke (kimono dressing) teachers. In previous years, the go-to recommendation for getting stuck in to kimono would have been the Immortal Geisha website and forums – however, both the forums and website were taken offline in 2014, and exist now only in archived form. Though many of the pages are preserved on archiving websites, don't panic! The group now exists on Facebook – under the name Global Kimono – with just as large and helpful a following of experts and enthusiasts.
There are quite a few guides on the Internet that show you how to put all the other elements together, so they won't be replicated here. You will find it quite difficult at first and your first few attempts may look a bit silly, but you get better with practice. Fitting kimono onto people is actually a recognised skill in Japan and aside from registered fitters or cosmetologists it isn't legal to offer one's services to put on a kimono for financial gain – though obviously, if you've got the skills and are willing to help a friend, they'd almost certainly be infinitely grateful.
Traditionally, kimono were washed in a process called kiri arai – you unstitched all the panels and washed them by hand individually. The completely undone kimono was known as arai hari. Naturally, this is a pretty expensive process, and isn't available outside of Japan.
The best way to keep a kimono clean is to make the right decisions before wearing it. Here's some questions to ask yourself:
Remember to wash your hands before wearing your kimono, and hang it up on a kimono hanger (really just a long pole with a hook in the centre) after wearing it to air it out. Wearing a juban underneath your kimono will keep it nice and clean, and wearing simple clothing underneath that – a tank top and shorts or leggings works well – will also help to keep it clean. You might invest in dress shields, if you know you're going to be doing something strenuous, but they may show under the arm.
If your kimono gets dirty – you can, cautiously, dry-clean it, but make sure before you send it to the dry cleaners' that you're not sending it to its grave. Before you go – call your dry cleaners' and ask them if they do bridalwear. If the answer isn't a confident "yes", move on and find another one. If they can't do bridalwear – the most silk-laden, snow-white outfits of all – they're unlikely to be able to do your kimono any justice.
If a good dry cleaners' isn't available, then there are some kimono that you could, potentially, hand-wash – however, the stitches on hand-sewn kimono are likely to come loose, and there's the possibility that the dye could run and bleed.
Kimono aren't sewn together with tight stitches, and some dyestuffs – even synthetic dyes – bleed easily, with red and indigo dye being the main culprits. Total immersion in water and the agitation from washing could lead to a kimono coming apart, and the colors running over one another – leading to a stained kimono that you can't wear.
Machine-sewn kimono, however, can be hand-washed, but only very gently – and it's far better to try and spot-treat kimono (not with water and a sponge!) than to hand-wash them if they have a number of different colors. For machine-sewn yukata, you can likely throw these in the wash on a delicate cycle with little consequence – so long as it's brand-new or otherwise mass-produced, as these are designed to be more washable. You should be fine, hopefully, but as always, exercise caution. Keep in mind that water stains do not wash out.
Hand-washing anything dyed red is immediately out of the question, especially vintage pieces with red linings, and machine-washing kimono in general, outside of simple pieces that have been machine-sewn, is almost certainly a very bad idea.
You may be able to remove stains with 99% isopropyl alcohol – as it evaporates quickly enough that it will not leave a water stain itself. Using a cotton bud lightly dipped in the alcohol, gently swab away stains, testing first on an area that won't be seen. Be careful of finishes such as fabric paint, gold foil and golden threads – the alcohol may react poorly with these. Never use less than 99%, as percentages like 70% and 50% will likely leave a water stain.
Don't store your kimono on a hanger in your wardrobe, unless it's folded up on a trouser hanger – and even then, it's not advisable. Yes, you found your kimono hanging on a Western-style garment hanger in the shop – but avoid it anyway! Over time, the shoulders will warp oddly, and the seams and panels will stretch out.
(You should also avoid storing your kimono in direct sunlight – the older a kimono is, the more likely it will fade quickly.)
Traditionally, kimono were stored in tatōshi wrappers – acid-free rice paper envelopes – and these are still available, relatively cheaply online. They are not particularly sturdy; it's very easy to rip them, though you can store more than one kimono in them at a time. They're a good investment, but you may not have access to them; in which case, acid-free tissue paper (the acid-free part is important) will probably do the job.
Kimono were also stored in chests called tansu – paulownia wood chests. Because of the properties of paulownia, these helped to regulate the humidity inside the chest, as Japan's environment is naturally prone to humidity and, over time, mould.
Tansu can be difficult to find and expensive to buy. A flat plastic container under your bed would suffice, as it keeps the kimono away from heat and light, but you must make sure to air out your kimono roughly once a year. You should also fold your kimono in the appropriate way, as this will help to avoid creasing panels unnecessarily.
If you're not storing your kimono in a tatōshi – don't store it in any kind of paper that isn't acid-free. This includes taking a bolt of fabric off the little cardboard tube you bought it on. This will lead to, in a shorter amount of time than you would think, discolouration spots appearing on the kimono, and unless you're able to submerge what you've bought in oxiclean for hours at a time, it is irreversible.