Saint Martins Island is in the Chittagong Division of Bangladesh and lies about 10 km southwest of the southern tip of the mainland.
Saint Martins is a tropical cliché and the only coral island in the country, with beaches fringed with coconut palms and laid-back locals. It's a clean and peaceful place with nothing more strenuous to do than soak up the rays — even mosquitoes are a rarity. There's a naval base near the center of the island, and the USA looked into setting up one of their own. The island was devastated by a cyclone in 1991 but has fully recovered, and was untouched by the 2004 tsunami.
It is possible to walk around Saint Martins in a day since it measures only 8 km², shrinking to about 5 km² during high tide. Most of the island's 7000 inhabitants live primarily from fishing, and between October and April fishermen from neighboring areas bring their catch to the island's temporary wholesale market. Rice and coconuts are the other staple crops, and algae is collected and dried from the sea rocks and sold for consumption to Myanmar.
Most things are concentrated around the far north of the island, with the center and south being mostly farmland and makeshift huts. There is no electricity on the island, though the larger hotels run generators in the evenings for a few hours.
November to February is the main tourist season with the best weather, though keep an eye on the forecast, as the occasional cyclone can strike during this time.
Getting to Saint Martins Island by bus is a two-step process. First you'll need to come Teknaf which is on the very southern tip of Bangladesh, near Myanmar. One can come Teknaf by bus from Dhaka, Chittagong and Cox's Bazar. Dhaka to Teknaf bus fare is Tk 850-950 non-A/C and Tk 1300-1700 A/C as of January 2012. Several bus services depart from Fakirapool, Dhaka to Teknaf. Maximum bus starts at night and the journey is near about 11-12 hours.
From Teknaf, mid-level ships run daily and take around 1½-2 hours, named Kutubdia, Keary Sindabad, and Shundorbon Service. The fare ranges from Tk 450-2500 as of January 2012. All the ships and cruises stars journey from Teknaf to Saint Martin at 9AM-9:30AM and return journey starts from Saint Martin at 3PM-3:30PM. During the off-season (May-August/September) these ships do not provide services because of bad weather. The peak season is September-April. The total distance from Dhaka to the island is 510 km.
From Teknaf, you can cruise to Saint Martin's Island with the largest and the safest ship, LCT Kutubdia, and reach Saint Martin's comfortably in 2 hours or less. LCT Kutubdia cruise journey is a pleasant one as you will see the spectacular views of Teknaf Hill on one side and Myanmar on the other side while she cruises along the Naf River. You will arrive at the Saint Martins Island Ferry Terminal 📍, at the northeastern part of the island.
Ferries depart the island around 3PM. If you do not already have a round-trip ticket, you can book the return leg at the Keari Marzaan restaurant (+88 01727 266077, 01819 682091, just before Saint Martin's Resort, off the main road). The restaurant only caters to day-trippers on tours arranged by Keari Tours. The one-way fare was Tk 300 and the return fare was Tk 750 as of 2011.
By plane you have to reach firstly in Cox's Bazar from Dhaka/Chittagong (inter-country) by Biman Bangladesh Airlines or with private airlines like Rigent Airlines, United Airlines, and US Bangla Airlines. The fare from Dhaka-Cox's Bazar is Tk 4000-6200 as of January 2021. Cox's Bazar airport is the only airport near Teknaf.
After reaching Cox's Bazar by Plane, from Cox's Bazar there are several ways to get to Teknaf. Private car rental services cost Tk 300. The public buses from Cox's Bazar to Teknaf cost Tk 150. Another way is for a group to rent a mid-level micro bus or jeep and travel to Teknaf.
Luxury cruise ship “MV Bay One” sails from Chittagong to St. Martin's Island.
At one point a left turn leads around the newly built hospital and into the center of the island. It's an interesting walk and eventually leads out to the western beach just north of the Sea Turtle Hatchery, after a couple wrong turns.
Flatbed cycle-rickshaws are the only transport aside from walking. There are no motorized vehicles on the island, not even motorcycles (yay!).
Village life is slow paced — most work happens in the morning and evening, while midday is reserved for drying fish and rice and selling your coconuts. Or, more likely, sitting in the shade chewing paan.
There's a Sea Turtle Hatchery on the west side of the island south of Shemana Pereye Resort. It's not open to visitors, but it's usually empty and the gate unlocked. If it's the right season there will be several bamboo cages in the sand with eggs buried under them — not much to see, but it's nice to know that good work is being done. This is under the Sea Turtle Conservation Project STURCNET (Sea Turtle Conservation Network). The first tag was attached in 2000, and in January 2003, a total of 65 tags had been attached to nesting Green and Olive Ridley turtles. The conservation project has so far included activities such as: monitoring of nesting turtles along the coastline; in situ conservation efforts, including protecting nesting beaches; protecting nesting females from predatory hazards, such as dogs; ex situ conservation through hatcheries; and an awareness-raising campaign about sea turtle conservation.
Stars are amazingly plentiful on a moonless night, due to the lack of electricity on the island.
Rock Beach (Rocky Beach Area), Dhakinmatha, (Last point of the Island). The southern point of the island has millions of years old rock formed from coral. The area is popular as Rock Beach and can be visited on foot. A 10-15 minutes track can be explored within the area by taking permission from the local land owners to see wild life including lizard, migratory birds and unique sweet water turtles habitat.
There are many small shops near the dock/port and along the main road selling very basic necessities and the odd souvenir t-shirts, hats, dried fish (recommended), shoes, tinned food, cosmetics, toiletries, sunglasses, etc. relatively cheaply. There are also few decent restaurants along with the main road of Saint Martins Island.
Sea shells and things made from them are sold by little children around the island, but it's illegal and leads to the depletion of sea life.
Food is a little more expensive here than on the mainland.
The food shacks that line the road to the port all cook up similar fare: parothas (Tk 8), omelettes (egg, Tk 20) and vegetable curry (Tk 20) for breakfast, and (fish, dal, rice and veggies at Tk 130) the rest of the day. Cha is Tk 8.
All of the hotels also have restaurants with basically the same typical Bangladeshi offerings, with higher prices and better quality than those near the port. Chicken is sometimes available but not very tasty, and lobster and crab may be available occasionally at very high prices. The restaurant at Blue Marine Resort and Appayan at Saint Martin's Resort are the best on the island.
The islanders also sell dried fish, which is a bit more expensive but fresher than those available upshore in Cox's Bazaar.
Early morning is the best time to get fresh fish from the fisherman near the market, you can often bring it to your hotel chef and ask him to fry it up the way you like, or some places may do a nice evening barbeque. Some places may even give you kitchen access to cook it yourself if you ask.
There are several budget guesthouses along the main road such as Hotel Sea Heart, Bay of Bengal Guesthouse, Coast Guesthouse, Hotel Sadek, Oceanview and Coral Reef Guesthouse, all similarly dark and characterless with dank attached bathrooms and no running water. Anywhere else these rooms would cost Tk 500-700, but here you'll be lucky to pay Tk 1000 and be asked for as much as Tk 1500.
Most evenings will be candle-lit since there's no electricity on the island, but a few of the more expensive hotels have generators.
The island has seen a massive increase in tourism (mostly Bangladeshis) over the last few years, and the fragile ecosystem on the island is not well equipped to handle it. Do what you can to encourage eco-friendly practices, and definitely don't litter the island. It's also a good idea to avoid eating fish at every meal on an island where overfishing is a major problem and sea life is rapidly vanishing.
If you come across sea turtles or their eggs, keep a reasonable distance and don't disturb these fascinating but fragile creatures.
Westerners should be alert to the modest lifestyle of the islanders, especially women. It is not a good idea to swim in public places in western bathing suits, and modest dress is appropriate for both women and men.
There are no landlines, but cell phones work well, due to a few very imposing cell phone towers dotted around the island. Grameenphone, Robi, Banglalink, and Airtel are the service providers and well establish here.
There is no internet on the island, the nearest is in Cox's Bazaar. Otherwise there is internet modems which use the same signal of mobile companies with decent speed.
There is a small hospital 📍 located in the northern portion of the island.
As tempting as it may be to cross into Myanmar, the border is closed. Simply enjoy the views of the coast during the boat journey. If you are intent on going, head up to Dhaka, get a visa, and fly from there.