Saray is a town in Eastern Thrace, in the foothills of the Istranca Mountains in the west of Turkey. In 2014 the town population was 24,960 while the whole district had 47,522. It's a transport hub and most visitors are passing through on their way to the Black Sea beach resorts.
Saray means palace and several towns have that name, so always specify "Saray, Tekirdağ" when organising travel. The main route between Istanbul and the west passes some way south, crossing rivers that may be impassable in spate. Eventually causeways were built to carry the road, but there was also a northern route along the higher ground through Saray and Vize. One who came this way was Murad I, who conquered Thrace and probably had a hunting lodge hereabouts that became known as "the palace". Another was Suleiman the Magnificent: he took Sarajevo, Belgrade and Buda but was repulsed at Vienna in 1529. It was the high-water mark of Ottoman advance in the west, and from there on the Hapsburgs pushed them back.
The other rising power was Russia, expanding south in the 18th century. In Crimea they ousted the Giray dynasty of khans in 1774, whose ruler Şahin Giray was briefly exiled here. Local legend ascribes the palace to him, but the Ottomans saw him as a rival and swiftly had put him to death.
In the 19th century Saray like other towns in Thrace had a substantial Greek population, and after Turkey was defeated in the First World War, Greece made a land-grab and held Saray from 1920 to 1922. The Treaty of Lausanne in 1923 drew the border in its present position and mandated population exchanges, so ethnic Greeks and Bulgarians were deported while ethnic Turks were re-settled from elsewhere. Istanbul grew and grew, and towns on its fringes also grew and became industrial. Saray is just far enough out to have escaped this, for the moment. Its residents commute to towns such as Çorlu and Çerkezköy rather than to the metropolis. Meanwhile Istanbul residents come this way to reach the Black Sea resorts of Kıyıköy and İğneada.
Kale Seyahat (which means "Castle Travel") run hourly from Istanbul Bayrampaşa to Saray, taking 2-3 hr for a fare of 40-70TL. Pamukkale Turizm and Istanbul Seyahat bus lines also serve this route. Most buses continue to Vize and Kırklareli. Buses across the hills to Demirköy and İğneada on the Black Sea coast are suspended in 2021. Buses and frequent dolmuses run from Çorlu, which has buses from Tekirdağ and Istanbul city and airport.
Saray bus station 📍 is 100 m southeast of the main square, Bülent Ecevit Park.
Driving west from Istanbul, from the city take O-3 / E80 and from IST airport take O-7. When they merge, stay on O-3 to the turnoff onto D567, which heads northwest bypassing Çerkezköy to bring you into Saray. There's also a northern road D-020 through the hills, scenic once it escapes the industrial sprawl at the edge of the metropolis. Driving east from the border, stay on O-3 past Edirne and Lüleburgaz to the Ahımehmet turnoff.
The nearest railway station is Çerkezköy 20 km south, but in 2021 all trains are suspended while the Istanbul - Edirne - Europe line is rebuilt.
The town is compact and walkable. You want wheels to reach the caves.
Saray and its approach highways have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of Nov 2021, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.
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