Shaxi

Shaxi (沙溪; Shā​xī​) is in Yunnan Province.

Get in

There is no direct public bus to Shaxi from Lijiang or Dali. To reach Shaxi, first take a long-distance bus to Jianchuan (剑川) from either Lijiang or Dali (Xiaguan). The trip from Lijiang to Jianchuan now takes approximately 1 hour owing to the new freeway completed in 2013.

From Old Town Dali: Take either bus no. 4 or no. 8 to Xiaguan. From the last stop on bus no. 4, take a taxi to the north bus station (ke yun bei zhan, 客运北站). Bus no. 8 will stop outside of the north bus station. Long-distance bus service to Jianchuan runs every 15-30 min from 06:20 to 18:50, the cost of the ticket is ¥26 and it takes about 3 hours to arrive in Jianchuan (depending on traffic, road condition, and stops along the way). The whole journey from Old Town Dali to Jianchuan will take 4½-5 hours, including time waiting for the bus. It may also be possible to wave down the bus to Jianchuan from highway just east of Old Town Dali if you can read the Chinese characters for Jianchuan, it could save you the trouble of going south to Xiaguan first, but seating is not guaranteed. Or flag down any of the buses going to Shangri-la and get off in Jianchuan.

The Landscape Hotel in Dali old Town is offering direct shuttles to Shaxi at 09:00 and 15:00 every day for a price of ¥75, taking only 2½ hours. It's only small minivans, so it is advisable to buy the ticket a day in advance.

From Old Town Lijiang: Purchase a ticket at the main bus station in Lijiang, which is now the place for departures to Jianchuan (not the small long-distance bus station in northern Lijiang, which no longer serves Jianchuan). Buy a ticket to Jianchuan which will cost ¥30 and take about 1 hour.

From Shangri-la: Take any of the buses going to Dali and get off in Jianchuan.

When you arrive in Jianchuan: Take a bus destined for Jiaohou (喬后) and tell the driver that you want to get off at Shaxi. There are not many of these buses, and a return trip by one of them may be difficult since they are small and fill up quickly. Alternatively, there are mini-bus services just outside of Jianchuan bus station that take about 45 minutes to reach Shaxi (¥13). The bus departs from Jianchuan whenever it is semi-full with passengers. Try not to arrive in Jianchuan too late in the evening or else there may not be enough passengers to fill up a bus to Shaxi. It should also be possible to catch a mini-bus at the junction for Shaxi (Diannan), 8 km south of Jianchuan. Hitching should also be possible if not preferable!

Landscape Hotel Shuttle Bus: There is also a shuttle bus organised by the Landscape Hotel which takes people between their Shaxi and Dali hotels. The buses run at 09:00 and 15:00 from both locations and can be booked by visiting the hotel or asking your accommodation to ring them. Price is ¥65 each way. It's a good option as it is direct.

Get around

The main village of Shaxi (Sideng) can be easily toured by walking. It's also possible to visit the many other villages in Shaxi on foot, however, renting a bicycle would be a quicker and better option. Several shops near the main square offer bicycle rental (¥20 for full day hire) and also some of the guesthouses such as the Dragonfly and 58 Yard. Hiking and horseback riding are the main options for a visit into the mountains around Shaxi.

See

• Baoxiang Temple (宝相寺).
• Shizhong Temple (石钟寺). If you buy the ticket at Shizhong Temple, it is ¥10
• Shibao Shan (石宝山; Stone Treasure Mountain). A fantastic nature reserve and religious site that was one of the first to be officially protected by China in 1982. There are numerous temples and grottoes as well as some fantastic views and walks amongst the old forests. Shibaoshan covers a big mountain area with its main points of interest some times distant kilometers away. Arriving there by taxi it is advisable to ask the driver to take you to some of the further temples (he will not need to pay entrance ticket), as Baoxiang Temple. Going up to the temple there are some families of monkeys that some times turn very aggressive to the visitors. Minor injuries have been reported. Shizhong Temple (Stone Bell Temple) has the highest concentration of stone carvings. If you want to walk from Sideng town: get out of town through the main road going North, pass a gas station on your left, and on kilometer mark 113 turn left (West) into a dirt road; walk about 20 minutes and reach the southern edge of the Shibaoshan area (it's another 1-2 hours walk uphill to Shizhong Temple). The entrance fee is ¥50 (students free?)
• Friday Market. As the last remaining market town on the ancient Tea & Horse Caravan trail, Shaxi still hosts the local market every Friday. The Bai people from all the villages in Shaxi Valley and the Yi people from the surrounding mountains all come together to trade everything from fresh produces to supplies and horses. Minority women will be dressed in their colorful traditional costumes, and men will often lead pack mules to carry supplies back to their mountain villages, much like in the days of the Tea & Horse Caravan Trail hundreds of years ago.
• Pear Orchard Temple (Sheltered Mercy Nunnery 慈荫庵), 084 County Road 县道, Diantou Village 甸头村 (on entering Shaxi Valley, the temple is immediately on the right past the Diantou Village 甸头村 sign), 26.346500°, 99.855472°, +86 8724722296, reservations@shaxichina.com. 8am -5pm. The temple complex houses four unique shrines on four levels, together representing a mix of Buddhist, Daoist and Chinese folk religious traditions. Originally known as 'Ci Yin An' (Temple of Hidden Compassion), this breath taking multi-level temple complex is known as the Shaxi Pear Orchard Temple. Commanding spectacular views across the valley from its vantage point at the head of Diantou Village, was actually a functioning nunnery for much of its 1,000-year history. Since its complete restoration in 2014 by an American philanthropist, the temple now houses galleries, an organic restaurant, meditation and yoga practice spaces as well as clssrooms, gift shop and Shaxi Visitor's Centre. Free admission 免费 2015-06-03
• Bailong Tan (白龙潭; White Dragon Pool). A pool formed by a clear undeground spring, this small lake is believed to be sacred to the local Bai people. It supplies drinking water to the villages in Shaxi Valley.
• Heilong Tan (黑龙潭; Black Dragon Pool).
• Mapingguan Village (马坪关). Located between Shaxi Valley and the three major Dianxi salt wells to the west, Mapingguan was an important checkpost during the time of the Tea & Horse Caravan Trail where the government collected tax on the salt trade.

Do

• Hiking. There are a lot of hiking trails in the mountains both to the east and to the west of Shaxi Valley. The trails are what the local villagers use to go between villages, or to collect firewood, wild herbs, and mushrooms. There are no markers, the trails are easy to follow, but a good sense of direction is needed to not get lost.The 46 Horse Pen Hostel hosts weekly guided hikes around the mountains every Saturday. If you're lucky, they'll bring along their two giant dogs to make the hike more fun.
• Cycling. The Shaxi Valley and its numerous villages is a great place to explore on a bicycle. A day spent riding on the small single-track trail between green farm fields can yield many surprises and hidden gems.
• Kayaking. 2 hr. It's possible to kayak down the shallow and slow moving water of the Heihui River to see Shaxi Valley from a different angle. Starting from the northern edge of Shaxi Valley and Shibaoshan and ends in Sideng village, the water is mostly flatwater, with a couple small dams that can be navigated.Professional guiding is required.
• Horseback riding to Shibaoshan (Shaxi Horse Trekking), 084 County Road, Diantou Village (based at the Pear Orchard Temple in Diantou Village), 26.346500°, 99.855472°, +86 8724722296, reservations@shaxichina.com. 09:00-18:00 weather permitting. ¥120 per person round trip 2015-06-03

Holidays and festivals

• Torch Festival (火把节). A major festival for the Bai and the Yi minorities around Shaxi, it is held every year on the 25th day (24th for the Yi people) of the 8th month on the lunar calendar. The local villagers will light torches and big barn fires everywhere, and dance and sing around the fires.
• Taizihui Holiday (太子会). The biggest religious holiday in Shaxi, it is held every year on the 8th day of the second month on the lunar calendar.

Buy

• Wood carving. It is possible to buy wood carvings in Shaxi, but a better place to buy wood carvings is Jianchuan, not the most glamorous destination but a place that is famous in China for its high quality wood carvings (the carvings on sale in Shaxi all come from Jianchuan, so you pay a markup owing to this). If you hire a driver outside the bus station at Jianchuan for a modest fee, he will take you to some of the dozen or so shops located along one road just outside the city, where you can buy some outstanding pieces. Take a sedative beforehand to avoid sticker shock, most of these carvings are very expensive.
• Wild mushrooms.

Eat

• Dancing Mule Cafe, Duanjiadeng Village (about 3 km north of the old town, take the turn off marked Duan Village), 26.3378658°, 99.8645059°, +86 13577851712. The main building has tables for at least twenty people, including three balcony tables overlooking the temple courtyard and the fields beyond. All the dishes are sourced locally in the family fields and signature dishes include fried goat cheese in sugar, sweet and sour aubergines and 'Duan Jia' Bai style Noodles. Traditional music performance for groups is available with prior request. All walk-in bookings must be made in advance - telephone +86 13577851712 (English, French and Chinese spoken). ¥35 per person
• {{eat | name=Pear Blossom Temple Restaurant | alt=沙溪慈荫庵梨花菜馆 | url=https://www.shaxichina.com/shaxi-pear-orchard-temple.html (dead link: December 2020) | email=reservations@shaxichina.com | address= | lat=26.346500 | long=99.855472 | directions=entering Shaxi Valley, the Pear Orchard Temple is immediately on the right after the road sign for Diantou Village; free parking is available next to the temple. The Pear Blossom Restaurant is past the main hall on the 2nd level to the left overlooking the central courtyard | phone=+86 13577258117 | tollfree= | fax= | hours=08:00-18:00 | price=¥40/person | lastedit=2015-06-03 | content=The Pear Blossom organic Shaxi restaurant offers authentic Shaxi local cooking in an active local folk temple. Their specialties include fresh, handmade "Buddha's Hand" pizza from local ingredients, 10 kinds of home-style jiaozi (dumplings), sweet and savory baba (a Shaxi specialty pastry), farm to table organic vegetables and cheese and a great selection of Chinese and imported wines. Reservations required in advance. }}
• Gui Ju Hotel (贵菊饭店). The English sign says "hotel", but it's actually just a restaurant. A good budget option to taste some local dishes and the food is good.
• Horse Pen 46 Youth Hostel, at the south of the theater stage on the old town square. They serve nice coffee, nice western breakfast, as well as Sichuan & Cantonese-style cuisines.
• Xi Lu Inn. Located in the inner courtyard of the inn, this is one of the cleaner (and more expensive) eateries in town. They serve a mixture of local and Sichuan-style cuisine.
• {{eat | name=Hungry Buddha | alt= | url=http://www.maurinoveg.com/en/hungry-buddha (dead link: December 2020) | email= | address=Sideng rd | lat=26.319729 | long=99.852378 | directions=Between Main square and East Gate | phone= | tollfree= | fax= | hours=11:30-21:00 | price=¥40-100 |lastedit=2017-02-28| content=Vegan restaurant with 8 seats in front of the kitchen. Pizza and bread are sour dough, seasonal menus offer choices of different degustation menus. Good choice of imported wines; elegant shop with local TCMs, dry mushroom, organic tea cakes and many other selected local products. }}
• Meimei's restaurant (美美饭店), 084县道 (From Sideng Square, walk west along Sideng Street. At the end of the street, turn left. Bear right as the road fork's. Meimei's is on your right.), 26.31939°, 99.84922°. Serves Yunnan dishes along with Chinese traditional favourite fried dishes (炒菜). Great local food, and far cheaper than the places along Sideng Street (寺登街). No English spoken, but you can just point to what you want in the fridge, and they will do good things with it. Very friendly service. 2016-06-16

Drink

• Allen's Cafe, Sideng Square (south of the old theater stage in the town square), +86 13529720775. Eclectic, multinational meeting place, a bar and cafe.
• Trail Cafe (溪语咖啡).
• Old Tree Cafe (老槐树咖啡). Serves coffee, tea, and snacks.

Sleep

• Shaxi Old Theatre Inn (沙溪戏台会馆 formerly Dragonfly Guest House), Duanjiadeng Village, Shaxi Yunnan (about 3 km north of the old town, take the turn off marked Duan Village. Cross the River Bridge and the hotel is 200 m directly ahead on a bluff overlooking the valley), 26.3378658°, 99.8645059°, +86 13577851712, reservations@shaxichina.com. 24/7. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. A beautiful restored boutique heritage hotel, housed within an authentically preserved eighteenth-century temple theatre courtyard complex. Three doubles and two twin rooms are available, each with 24hr hot water showers and private western style toilets. All rooms are soundproofed and winterized, have beautiful en suite bathrooms and private shower, along with electric blankets and clerestory windows for extra winter warmth. Facilities include free WiFi, a lounge with TV and DVDs and dining area, laundry service, bike rentals and local English guiding service. With authentic local cuisine and an extensive international wine list, Shaxi Old Theatre Inn is an excellent out of town alternative for those looking to stay in a rural village setting. The local partner, Mr. Wu speaks English, French and Chinese. ¥575 per night
• Tourist Courtyard Hotel, Shaxi Yunnan, +86 872 4722 888, touristcourtyard@163.com. 24/7. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. 22 rooms each with 24hr hot water showers and private western style toilets. Facilities include free WiFi, shared lounge, free laundry, free wifi and a restaurant. ¥120 per night
• Horse Pen 46 Youth Hostel (马圈46国际青年旅舍), No. 46 Sideng Street (Just south of the old theater stage at the town square), 26.315868°, 99.853100°, +86 872-4722299, +86 15125074011, owners@horsepen46.com. A family-style guesthouse with dorm beds and double-rooms available.The hostel is inside an authentic ancient Bai courtyard, it is a cozy guest-house full of characters. English-speaking staff, in-room showers and western-style toilets, 24-hr hot water, free Wi-Fi, and free laundry.They provide free guided hike every Saturday. Owners are experienced and licensed outdoor guides, they provide info about Shaxi area for free. bunk bed ¥20/25, double room ¥50-150
• Jinshui Loutai (近水楼台; House near the Water), 26.316123°, 99.853524°.
• 58 Yard (58号小院), No. 58 Sideng Street (West of the town square). A nice place that has been tastefully decorated and has clean rooms. At this place, you are certainly not "roughing it". Don't let the "free breakfast" be the draw, you could buy the half apple and bun in the market for less than 1 kuài. ¥40 for a bed, ¥150-250 for a room
• Keep Watch 6740 (守望 6740), +86 872 4722427. The guest house is owned and operated by a Tibetan family, which also runs a well-received hostel in Shangri-La. The entire place including the reception room, a courtyard, and a balcony is well decorated. The place has only private rooms for now, though dorm beds could be added in the future.
• Laomadian Lodge (老马店), 26.316351°, 99.853065°.
• Ou Yang Guesthouse (三家巷).
• Pingchang Renjia (平常人家).
• Pingsheinn(平舍客栈), South Tibet Alley (close to South gate of ancient town), +86 13608825860. This inn is essentially pure and simple with high quality (totalsoccer.g@gmail.com).
• Shaxi Cultural Center (沙溪文化中心), +86 8724722188. Rooms in a beautifully restored courtyard compound that support sustainable community development in Shaxi. Hot water in rooms, library and Internet.
• Square Street Inn.
• Tea and Horse Caravan Trail Inn (古道客栈), North of the town square, 83# in the North Tibet Alley, +86 8724721051, +86 15308724988. The oldest inn in Shaxi. Warm and sunny traditional yard, full of tree and flowers, provide local food. 10 new rooms with showers and western styly toilets in rooms, free Wi-Fi and washer. zhaosu1976@yahoo.com.cn
• Xi Lu Inn, No. 33 Sideng Street (South of the main crossroads at the corner). Very nice rooms in lovely traditional coutyard home with two double beds, electric blankets, television and water heater. Friendly service but probably one of the more expensive options in the town.
• Yezi's Guesthouse (叶子的家).

Connect

Go next

Catch the mini-bus (45 min, ¥10) to Jianchuan from outside the Shaxi bus station. There are daily buses to many other cities in Yunnan from the Jianchuan bus station. Price and schedule subject to change so better confirm with the Jianchuan bus station when you first arrive in Jianchuan.

Jianchuan and the roads that lead to Lijiang and Dali are quite congested due to large scale road construction of the new Kunming Shangri-La Highway. On the road to Dali, be prepared for long traffic jams and white knuckle encounters with heavy lorries. To go straight to Old Town Dali without getting stuck at the bus station, ask the driver to drop you off at the East Gate, as the bus will pass right near it. Ask your hostel to write this down in Chinese for you. You will save both time and money.

If heading to Dali an interesting alternative with much better scenery is the X804 road down through Qiao Hou, Lian Tie and into Yangbi. Mini Buses leave Jianchuan at 07:30 and 13:20 everyday, arriving to pick up outside the stationary store in Shaxi Village about one hour later. The fare down to Yangbi is ¥25 and the trip takes about four hours. From Yangbi Station, there are regular buses to Xiaguan (Dali New Town), Xiaohuayuan Qiqezhan every few minutes. The journey takes the old road and is about 40 minutes costing ¥10.