Singapore/North and West - regions in Singapore

The northern and western parts of Singapore are the city's hinterlands, consisting of jungle dotted with public housing blocks and a significant industrial area in Sungei Kadut and the reclaimed area of Tuas. In addition there is a reclaimed island, Jurong Island, made from the merging of 7 previously smaller islands, but this is devoted to the petrochemical industry and off limits unless you have a permit.

Get in

The western junction of Jurong East is 20 minutes away from the city center on the MRT East-West Line. Traveling there by the North-South Line will take closer to 60 minutes as it goes one big loop to Woodlands and the North.

See Johor Bahru for information on crossing the Causeway and the Second Link from Malaysia.

See

The sights of Singapore's hinterland can be easily divided in two: there's the zoo and the bird park, and then there's everything else.

Wildlife

Without a doubt the top attractions in the area, the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari, River Safari and Jurong Bird Park offer joint tickets valid for one month (Park Hopper tickets). Adult combination tickets to any two attractions vary from $26 to $49, while combination tickets to all four parks cost $89.

• Jurong Bird Park, 2 Jurong Hill (Bus 194 or 251 from Boon Lay bus interchange), 1.32101°, 103.70703°, +65 6265 0022, enquiry@wrs.com.sg. 8:30AM-6PM daily. Last admission 5:30PM. A 20-hectare open-concept park dedicated to, you guessed it, birds representing various species. This is Asia’s largest bird park with a collection of more than 5,000 birds from 380 species. The park is attractively presented and quite enjoyable even if you aren't a hardcore ornithologist. The park has 4 free-flight aviaries including the world’s largest aviary, the African Waterfall Aviary, with over 600 free-flying native African birds. There’s also the Lory Loft, where you get to feed the colourful lory and lorikeets. This is a chance to get up-close with these friendly little birds. Don’t be alarmed if they end up perching on your hand, shoulder, or even head. You can also explore the Southeast Asian Birds’ aviary, which features Asia’s largest collection of Southeast Asian birds, including the critically endangered Bali Mynah. The fourth free-flight aviary is Jungle Jewels, home of the colourful birds from South America. The park also has a collection of penguins which are housed in an outdoor enclosure. The Breeding & Research Centre provides a behind-the-scenes look at how eggs are hatched and taken care of. For kids needing reprieve from the tropical heat in Singapore, head over to Birdz of Play, a bird-themed water playground. Closing on 3 Jan 2023, and will be replaced by the newer, larger Bird Paradise near the Singapore Zoo later in 2023.. $28/18 adult/child (3-12 years)
• Singapore Zoo, 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio bus interchange, Bus 927 from Choa Chu Kang bus interchange, Bus 926 from Woodlands bus interchange (Su/PH only)), 1.40487°, 103.79056°, +65 6269 3411. 8:30AM-6PM daily. Last admission 5:30PM. This rainforest zoo is home to over 3,000 animals from over 316 species. The animals are kept in spacious, landscaped enclosures, separated from the visitors by dry or wet moats. The park boasts the world’s first free ranging orang utan habitat in a zoo. To spare yourself walking under the hot tropical sun, you can board a little tram that trundles through the park.; Bring along swimsuits for kids, so they can cool off in the "Rainforest Kidzworld". ; There's also an award-winning programme, the Jungle Breakfast with Wildlife ($29/19 adult/child extra), daily from 9-10:30AM, where you get to enjoy a buffet in the company of elephants, orangutans, snakes, and more. Advanced booking is highly recommended to ensure a spot. $22/14 adult/child (3-12 years)
• Night Safari, 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio bus interchange, Bus 927 from Choa Chu Kang bus interchange, Bus 926 from Woodlands bus interchange (Su/hols only). Allow lots of time on public transport or pay $35 for a taxi from the city. For getting back to the city, several coaches run to various city stops for $5), 1.40465°, 103.78533°, +65 6269 3411. 19:30-24:00, last admission 23:00. Restaurants and retail shops are open from 17:30. A completely separate wildlife park situated near the Singapore Zoo, this is the world's first wildlife park built to be viewed at night. The grounds are larger than that of the Singapore Zoo and animal exhibits are accessible to visitors on foot via 4 walking trails and a guided tram tour (Tram Safari). There is a 30-minute show at the amphitheatre with trained animal displays at least three times per night (weather permitting). The guided tram tour is recommended if you do not have the time to do a lot of walking and it brings you to the eastern part of the park which is not accessible by walking. Lighting throughout the park is minimal, but sufficient. Stopping at the second tram station is a must as there is a walking path (the Leopard Trail) for viewing giraffes, flying squirrels, lions and others. There are three other walking trails situated around the park – Fishing Cat Trail, East Lodge Trail, and the newest addition, Wallaby Trail. Explore the walking trails to see animals not visible from the tram journey. Flash photography is not allowed, so a tripod is recommended. Some other animals you can expect to see include tigers, lions, hyenas, tapirs, elephants, bats, hippopotamus, porcupines, leopards, badgers, and pangolins. $35/23 adult/child (3-12 years)
• River Wonders (previously River Safari), 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio bus interchange, Bus 927 from Choa Chu Kang bus interchange, Bus 926 from Woodlands bus interchange (Su/PH only)), 1.40363°, 103.78968°, +65 6269 3411. 08:30-18:00 daily. Last admission 17:30P. Mandai's latest attraction, River Wonders is themed around river ecosystems from the Amazon to the Yangtze to the Congo and Mississippi and is a rather fascinating mix between a zoo, an aquarium and a bird park. Toured in a loop, the entire path is under cover and has air conditioned exhibits here and there, making it a good choice in rainy or very hot weather. The highlight of the park is surely Kai Kai and Jia Jia, giant pandas on loan from China along with their associated merchandise, although you'll only get to see them for 15 minutes as they sometimes hide in their dens. The Amazon River, which has a small extra charge, lets you take a boat ride around the river and see many types of animals like jaguars and flamingos. Get there as soon as it opens and walk counterclockwise to beat the crowds. $25/15

Gardens

• Botanic Gardens, Bukit Timah Rd (Botanic Gardens MRT (for Bukit Timah Gate); Napier MRT (for Tanglin Gate)), 1.3151°, 103.8162°. 5AM-midnight. This UNESCO World Heritage site was once considered among the finest botanical gardens in the British empire, and it is still a firm favourite for visitors and locals alike. Features trees and plants from tropical climates around the world. Walking and jogging trails are throughout, and you can register for regular free guided tours highlighting different themes or areas such as the rainforest, and the healing garden. Outdoor sculptures dot the gardens. Look for the girl on the swing that appears to hang from an invisible chain in the air. Picnicking is allowed, but there are also quite a few cafes and restaurants (see Eat). Sunday evenings often see musical concerts showcasing light classics, Chinese or SE Asian performances from local orchestras at the bandstand. Free
• Chinese Garden and Japanese Garden, 1.33864°, 103.73001°. Free and nice for a walk and/or picnic. Also check out the tortoise and turtle sanctuary in the Chinese Garden. $5 adult admission and $2 for leafy vegetables and food pellets let you get up close and personal with these wonderful creatures. Worth a visit during the Mid-Autumn Lantern Festival (Sep-Oct, exact date varies), when the garden is lit up with tens of thousands of lanterns, including complex installations with moving figures based on themes ranging from Hello Kitty to Chinese folk tales.
  <br/>As of February 2021 the gardens are closed for renovation/upgrade works. $4.50, but $13/9 peak/off-peak during festival 2021-02-11
• National Orchid Garden, in the Botanic Gardens, 1.31249°, 103.81360°. 08:30-19:00. This is where you can spot Singapore's national flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid, and many more. Accessible by bus or car, parking at the visitor's centre. $5 (Jan 2011)

Historical

Quite a few sites related to World War II are scattered around the island, but most will appeal only to war history buffs.

• Kranji War Memorial, 9 Woodlands Rd (15 minutes walk from Kranji station), 1.41800°, 103.75799°. The War Cemetery is the final resting place of 4,461 British Empire servicemen and women of World War II in marked graves. The names of over 24,000 personnel killed across South-East Asia whose bodies were never found are inscribed on the Memorial Walls. A number of other memorials are on the site. Quieter than the Changi Chapel, but no less moving.
• Surviving the Japanese Occupation: War and its Legacies (Old Ford Factory), 351 Upper Bukit Timah Rd (Bus 67, 170, 171 or 961 from Hillview MRT), 1.35381°, 103.76893°, +65 6332 7973. M-Sa 09:00-17:30, Su 12:00-17:30. War museum at the old Ford Motor Factory, where British Lt-General Percival surrendered Singapore to the Japanese. Focuses on the subsequent Japanese occupation and the experiences of both civilians and POWs with modern presentation and multimedia gadgetry, but if you're pressed for time, the Changi Chapel covers much the same territory and is probably the more interesting of the two. That said, the board room where the surrender took place has been recreated for viewing. $3 2017-07-24
• Reflections at Bukit Chandu, 31-K Pepys Rd (Nearest bus stop Pasir Panjang Community Centre (lines 10, 30 from central Singapore), but it's still a bit of a hike up the hill from here), 1.27945°, 103.79407°, +65 6375 2510, RBC@nhb.gov.sg. Tu-Su 09:00-17:30. Small but well-implemented commemorative museum for the last stand of the Malay Regiment in World War II's Battle of Bukit Chandu. Chandu is Malay for "opium", since the building used to house an opium factory, and there's an interesting exhibit on that as well. If visiting here, make a short detour to the free Canopy Walk next door (a part of the Southern Ridges Walk), an elevated footpath through the jungle offering nice views of Singapore's heartlands. Free 2018-08-13

The Sembawang area was also home to a British naval base until 1970, with a large number of colonial houses in the area that survive as a reminder of that era. Most of these are still occupied as residences and cannot be entered, though they can be viewed from the outside. Today, the British naval presence has been reduced to a small logistics detachment, though the port of Sembawang frequently host port calls by vessels of the American, British, Australian and New Zealand militaries.

• Tanjong Pagar railway station (Stesen Keretapi Tanjong Pagar), 30 Keppel Road. The historical railway station, opened in 1932, was the terminus for trains from Malaysia until 2011. The station is richly ornamented in an Art Deco style and inside there are murals depicting economic activities of Malaysia and Singapore. The station will be integrated into the new Circle MRT line line but also be used for events and exhibits. 2021-08-05

Other

• Haw Par Villa, 262 Pasir Panjang Rd (Bus 10, 30, 188 from HarbourFront or bus 143 from Orchard), 1.28426°, 103.782°, +65 6872 2003. 09:00-19:00. Formerly the Tiger Balm Gardens, this is the former site of the villa of the Tiger Balm brothers, Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, now packed with an incredibly bizarre assortment of statues illustrating Chinese legends and moral values. The most famous bit is the Ten Courts of Hell, which demonstrate in gruesome detail how sinners get punished in the underworld: for example, ingratitude is punished by grilling on a red hot copper pillar, while cheating in exams merits having your body dismembered and your intestines pulled out. Free entry, Day Tours $10 and Night Tours $20 (adults)
• Kong Meng San Phor Kark See Monastery, 88 Bright Hill Rd (Bus 410 or 52 from Bishan MRT), 1.36136°, 103.83603°, +65 6849 5300. 05:00-16:30. Singapore's largest Buddhist temple and monastery sprawls over a hill in a residential suburb of Singapore. Founded in 1920, the present buildings are all oversized and rather gaudy concrete structures, but it's still a rather surreal place. The highlight is the Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas, whose dome is decorated on the inside with, you guessed it, ten thousand tiny Buddha figures. Runs meditation retreats (mostly only in Chinese though) and gets packed with worshippers on major Buddhist holidays.
• Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum, National University of Singapore, 2 Conservatory Drive (Bus 95, D2 from Kent Ridge MRT), 1.3016°, 103.774°, +65 6601 3333. Tu-Su 10AM–7PM. This museum showcases animals and plants with a focus on south-east Asia. The main floor contains many specimens, including two dinosaur and a whale skeletons. There is also a smaller section specifically on Singapore as well as an outdoor garden on the second floor. Reservation can be made online, but should not be necessary outside holiday time and weekends. $21/13 2017-07-24
• Omni-Theatre, just beside the Singapore Science Centre, 1.33352°, 103.73672°. 10AM–8PM Tu-Su. Omnimax movies and planetarium shows can be viewed on a tilted 23 m high screen. From Jurong East MRT, transfer to Bus 335 or walk 8 min from the station. $10/5 adult/child
• Singapore Science Centre, 15 Science Centre Rd, 1.33286°, 103.73586°. Tu-Su 10AM-6PM. Set up to promote interest and learning in science and technology through assortment of exhibits. There are more than 850 exhibits in the various exhibition galleries firmly aimed at younger children (6-10) and it is not possible to view all exhibits in one visit. There is also an interesting water park area near the front entrance. $6/3 adult/child
• Singapore Discovery Centre, 510 Upper Jurong Road (10 min walk from Joo Koon MRT), 1.33248°, 103.679°, +65 6792 6188, info@sdc.com.sg. Tu-Su 9AM-6PM, closed M (except public & school holidays). Mainly an interactive gallery illustrating aspects of Singapore's history, defence force, and culture. Some additional attractions include a paintball arena, pedal boat ride, and movie theatre (usually showing local films but does show a few current international titles). Conducts bus tours around the SAFTI Military Institute too. The SDC tends to organise a lot of group tours for students and military/civil service personnel, but is generally available to public. 2019-11-24
• Baba House, 157 Neil Rd, 1.2771°, 103.8374°, +65 6227 5731. By appointment only. M 2PM, Tu 6:30PM, Th 10AM, Sa 11AM. Located at the fringes of Chinatown among a row of shophouses, the Baba House is a showcase of Peranakan culture in Singapore and features traditional furnishings typical of Straits Chinese households. The house has a distinctive blue exterior. Free

Do

To find out what a sauna full of bugs feel like, go for some steamy jungle hiking. Best times are very early in the morning or in the late afternoon.

• Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, Hindhede Drive (Bus 170 or SMRT 67, 75, 171, 173, 184, 852 and 961 to the Courts department store on Upper Bukit Timah Rd and walk), 1.35278°, 103.778°. At 166 metres this is Singapore's highest point — if you don't count the city's skyscrapers. It is also one of the last places in Singapore that is home to the original primary tropical rainforest that used to cover the entire island. You can scale the hill in 15 minutes if you follow the paved road (boring) or 45-50 minutes if you do it the long way around (more interesting). Watch out for monkeys! Don´t expect a stunning view from the top, though. Almost nothing can be seen through the thick trees. Free
• MacRitchie Reservoir, Lornie Rd (Bus 162, 166 from Scotts Rd, Bus 74, 132, 165 from Ang Mo Kio MRT Station or Bus 166 from Ang Mo Kio Bus Interchange), 1.34194°, 103.83459°, +65 6468 5736. Park open sunrise to sunset, Treetop Walk open 09:00-17:00 Tu-Su. Rather more exciting than it sounds, this serene artificial lake is surrounded by acres of virgin jungle (and not a few golf courses). On the north side, the HSBC Treetop Walk is a 250-m bridge suspended as high as 27 m above the ground. Trails range from 3 to 11 km, and are of different difficulty levels. One can even hike all the way to Bukit Timah. There is a basic food court at the south entrance, and a ranger station with toilets and water at the 4.5 km mark (near Treetop Walk) on the north side. The park is also a popular haunt of canoeing enthusiasts, joggers, and strollers. For history buffs, this was also the site of a Shinto shrine (then called the Syonan Jinja) built by the Japanese during World War II, and the ruins of the shrine, while largely inaccessible without navigational equipment, still survive. For wildlife enthusiasts, the area is also home to two species of monkeys; the crab-eating macaque, which is very numerous and you are almost guaranteed to run into, and the banded surili or banded leaf monkey, which is very shy and critically endangered in Singapore, meaning that you will be very lucky to spot some in the forest canopies. Free
• Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, 1.448611°, 103.727778°. Daily 7:30AM-7PM. If you want to see a mangrove forest, this is your chance. The nature reserve is a site of international importance for migratory birds, while on the ground level, expect to see lots of bug-eyed giant mudskippers flapping about in the muck during a low tide. As the reserve is basically a swamp, bring plenty of mosquito repellant and keep an eye out for crocodiles: the aptly named "Tailless" can often be spotted hanging around under the bridge just west of the Wetland Center, and the 1.3 km Coastal Trail across to the Visitor Center is a nice stroll. Free

And there are a few things to do that don't involve stomping about in the jungle:

• Delta Sports Complex, 900 Tiong Bahru Rd (Redhill MRT), 1.28933°, 103.81980°, +65 6471 9030. 9AM-8PM (hours may vary by facility). ClubFITT gym, swimming pool, badminton, hockey and petanque courts.
• Singapore Turf Club (Kranji MRT), 1 Turf Club, 1.4218°, 103.7614°, +65 6879 1000. Host horse races, most commonly on Fridays (starting 18:30) but occasionally on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday as well. Betting is allowed, making this a major draw for local gamblers. The Upper Grandstand is air-conditioned, while the Lower is not. $3/7 Lower/Upper Grandstand
• Snow City, 21 Jurong Town Hall Rd, 1.3351°, 103.7351°. Tu-Su 10:30AM-6:30PM. The first permanent indoor snow centre in Singapore; interesting enough for residents of the tropics but probably not on the top of the agenda for pallid Europeans escaping their own winter. Sledding, snowboarding and other wintry pursuits, including the inevitable sub-zero bar. $12/18 for 1/2 hour
• West Coast Park, Parallel to West Coast Highway, 1.2978°, 103.7624°. Much less crowded than East Coast Park, with fewer amenities, although you can explore it on pedal-go-kart. Love pets? Bring your poochies for a nice walk and some doggy snooping at the local dog run. West Coast Park is an excellent place to bring the children. There are many activities like kite flying, a huge playground and rental barbeque pits. The western starting point of the Southern Ridges Walk.
• Skate With Us Skate School West Coast Park, West Coast Park Near McDonalds Area 3, +65 6246 6362. Every Sa 9AM-noon. Skate With Us offers professional inline skating and holidays camps at West Coast Park They offer free trial classes every month where you and your children can learn for free with supervision from a professional coach.
• Singapore Tchoukball, West Coast Park/NUS MPSH. You can organise a game of tchoukball with your friends here in Singapore. Often used by companies for teambuilding activities, tchoukball is a game that promotes character building, discipline and a fun game. Rent the equipment for an hour and they have a professional coach that will teach you for free.
• Sembawang Hot Spring Park, Along Gambas Ave, 1.4344°, 103.8224°. 7AM-7PM. One of only two natural hot springs in Singapore, the only one on the mainland, and the only one that is accessible to the public (since the other one is located in a military base). There are no full-body hot tubs or other luxuries, but you can soak your feet in the pools, cook some eggs (BYO) or bring a bucket to douse yourself. Free

Buy

There is little noteworthy shopping in the north or west. The major shopping malls are Jurong Point at Boon Lay MRT, the Westgate/Jem/JCube trio around Jurong East MRT and Northpoint at Yishun MRT. A stroll around the HDB heartlands may uncover interesting finds, though, not to mention an authentic taste of ordinary Singaporean life.

• The Grandstand, 200 Turf Club Road (Walk or take the free shuttle bus from Sixth Avenue MRT), 1.3377°, 103.7932°, +65 6463 4610. 10AM-10PM. The former turf club is now a fancy mall. A good place for European food and artisanal products. 2017-07-25

Tourist attractions such as Singapore Zoological Gardens, Jurong Bird Park and Singapore Botanic Gardens have gift shops overflowing with cute plush toys and tacky local kitsch.

• Huber's Butchery, 22 Dempsey Road (in Dempsey Hill, an enclave south of the botanic gardens, just off Holland Road, which has bus stops.), 1.305965°, 103.810439°. Good butchery and deli plus a bistro specialising in German meat and beer. From $20 2016-01-04

Eat

Budget

Hawker food is cheap in the boondocks, and there are a few culinary gems to be found — if you can find them, that is. There are also clusters of good western cafes and restaurants in Holland Village and Dempsey Hill.

• Bao Gong XO Fish Head Bee Hoon, Blk 721 Clementi West St 2 #01-100, 1.30316°, 103.76427°, +65 6778 9301. This place lets you find out what happens when you add XO cognac to fish soup. Less adventurous souls may want to try sliced fish instead of fish head.
• Joo Siah Bak Kut Teh, Blk 349 Jurong East Ave 1 #01-1215 (MRT Chinese Garden), 1.34452°, 103.73139°. Tu-Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 8AM–3PM. One of Singapore's best-known joints for bak kut teh (lit. "pork bone tea"), a peppery pork rib broth. Two bowls, rice and a serve of mui choy veggies will set you back $9.10; add in $0.50 for some you tiao fritters from the shop next door to dip in your soup.
• Samy's Curry, 25 Dempsey Rd (near Botanic Gardens), 1.306112°, 103.811746°, +65 6472 2080. Daily 11AM–3PM, 6–10PM. An old-school Singapore institution in an open-air colonial building, serving rice and curries on real banana leaves as ceiling fans whir. Waiters walk around with buckets of curry (very cheap) and take orders for tandoori, fish head curry and other treats (which can be more expensive). No air-con, no reservations. $5
• Yan Kee Food Stall, Taman Jurong Market & Food Centre #03-137 (MRT Lakeside), 1.33466°, 103.72153°. A local legend for Chinese-style curry fish head ($14/17 small/large), the gravy is good to the last drop.
• Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa, Blk 120 #01-75, Bukit Merah Lane 1, Alexandra Village Food Centre, 1.28631°, 103.80448°. 8:30AM-3:30PM. The best laksa in Singapore according to Makansutra and its many regulars. Expect to wait at least 30 minutes. Order with shrimp instead of cockles if raw shellfish is not your thing. Sold in sizes of $3.50/$4.50/$5.50.

Mid-range

• Bollywood Veggies, 100 Neo Tiew Rd (Hourly Kranji Express shuttle or taxi from Kranji MRT), 1.41860°, 103.71640°, +65 6898 5001. W-Su 9AM-6PM. Tucked away in rural Lim Chu Kang, this exuberantly colourful bistro with air-con and alfresco seating draws crowds on weekends with simple local dishes, made from fruits and vegetables grown on their backyard organic farm. The menu changes regularly, but favourites include their nasi lemak (coconut rice), banana curry, desserts like kueh kosui (coconut-brown sugar cake) and home-brewed teas. Kids can romp around the farm, while adults can pick up organic fruits, veggies and herbs to go. All meat is halal, but the restaurant is not certified. $12
• Canopy Garden Dining, Bishan Park II 1382 Ang Mo Kio Ave 1, 1.3623°, 103.8473°, +65 6556 1533. Daily 8AM-10PM. Tucked away in Bishan Park and best known for serving brunch every day until 17:00, after which you can move over to the bar and get sozzled on Oz wines. The menu also features soups, salads, pastas and other cafe food. Indoor and outdoor seating with great tropical views. Reservations are required. $20
• Colbar, 9A Whitchurch Rd (off Portsdown Rd), 1.29382°, 103.79644°, +65 6779 4859. Tu-Su 11AM-10PM. Stuck in the past and proud of it, this low-key eatery started life as a canteen for British soldiers, and fare like ox liver with peas and chips still figure prominently on the menu. It was relocated (complete with original building) out of the way of an expressway, but still very popular. Try the famous curries if British grub isn't to your taste, and don't expect any frills like air-con. $10-15
• Marina Bistro, 10 Tuas West Dr (Tuas Link MRT), 1.3428°, 103.6356°. In the Raffles Marina at the extreme west of Singapore right next to Second Link bridge to Malaysia, offers very competent Singaporean and Western food; try the excellent beef satay. The main selling point, though, is that it's probably the only restaurant in Singapore with sunsets over the sea. $20-25
• Zi Yean Food Centre, Block 56 Lengkok Bahru #01-443, +65 6474 0911. Locally famed outdoor coffee shop serving up Cantonese dishes like mui choy chicken (stuffed with pickled veggies), prawns wrapped in tofu skin and deep-fried, kangkong with century eggs, and abalone with chicken (a steal at $5/plate). Prices generally reasonable but some dishes can be expensive. Open for lunch and dinner, closed alternate Wednesdays.
• Keng Eng Kee (KEK) Seafood, 124 Bukit Merah Lane 1, #01-136, 1.28576°, 103.80364°. Daily 11AM-2PM, 5-10PM. Spanning across two blocks, with both air con and al fresco seating, KEK doesn't look like much but is locally famed for its Singaporean Chinese zi char food with a twist. Instead of the usual chilli crab, try the soft-shelled crab version, which is equally delicious and so much easier to eat. Other classic include Moonlight Hor Fun fried flat noodles with a raw egg (much better than it sounds!), coffee pork ribs and Ming Zhu tofu puffs. $30/head 2022-06-01

Splurge

The Bukit Timah area to the west of the city is one of Singapore's poshest residential districts featuring many high-quality restaurants, particularly in the expatriate enclave of Holland Village (dead link: January 2023). Another good option is Dempsey Hill, a convenient cluster of British-era army barracks converted into restaurants for the expat set, just ten minutes from Orchard Rd.

• Beaulieu House Restaurant, 117 Beaulieu Rd (Sembawang), +65 6257 9234. 11AM-2:30PM, 6–11PM. On Singapore's northern coast, the restaurant is housed in an old colonial-style bungalow that is believed to have been built around 1910, and has sea views towards Johor. Both Western and Chinese food is served. Best reached by taxi.
• Borgo, 789 Bukit Timah Rd (off Sixth Ave), +65 6446 7762. W-M noon–2PM, 6–10PM. Small Italian eatery specializing in Tuscan charcoal grills. The pastas are also excellent, but pizzas are mediocre. Reasonably priced and very popular, so book ahead, especially on weekends. $40
• Brazil Churrascaria, 14-16 Sixth Ave, +65 6463 1923. Waiters walk around with meat-laden skewers, just choose and eat. Decent salad buffet for the vegetarian contingent too. Open daily for dinner only. All you can eat $37++ (drinks not included)
• Margarita's, Blk 11 Dempsey Rd #01-19 (branches at East Coast Rd, Faber Drive), +65 6471 3228. Popular eatery featuring reasonably authentic Mexican eats like enchiladas with mole poblano (chocolate) sauce and refried beans, washed down with their namesake margaritas. Fills up fast on weekends with expats out to satisfy their Tex-Mex cravings, so book ahead. $40
• Original Sin, #01-62 Chip Bee Gardens, +65 6475 5605. Tu-Su 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6P-11PM. Continues to win awards for its Mediterranean vegetarian food. Lunch $20, dinner $40+

Another small cluster of upscale restaurants is nestled on the grounds of the Botanic Gardens.

• Casa Verde, +65 6467 7326. Daily 7:30AM-11PM. Located right at the entrance of the Visitor Centre, offers a mixed menu of local and Italian food at slightly elevated prices, but this is still by far the cheapest and most casual place to eat in the Gardens. The best pick here is the large wood-fired pizzas from $20.
• Halia Restaurant & Villa Halia, +65 6476 6711. M-F 11AM-11PM, Sa Su 9AM-11PM. The location in the Ginger Garden of the Botanic Gardens is a reason in itself to visit especially at night, with stunning floodlit views of the surrounding jungle. The food is international with Asian twists, and while consistently excellent comes at a fairly steep price. To get there, enter the Gardens by the Tyersall Ave side entrance and walk a few minutes following the signs. Indoor and outdoor seating available, reservations recommended. $120

Drink

Except for the odd karaoke TV pub, beer at your favourite hawker stall and a few low-key hangouts in expat enclave Holland Village, the north and west of Singapore were long virtually devoid of nightlife. However, since 2006 there has been a veritable boom of colonial black & white bungalows being repurposed into upscale dining and drinking complexes, with areas like Portsdown Rd, Rochester Park and Tanglin Village (Dempsey Rd) now buzzing on weekends.

• Baden-Baden, 42 Lorong Mambong (Holland Village). M-F 3PM-midnight, Sa Su noon-1AM. Well known restaurant-pub with German fare. Wood paneling, pork knuckles, German beer and good service.
• One Rochester, 1 Rochester Park, +65 6773 0070. 6PM-1AM daily, breakfast from 09:00 on Sundays. Two-floor bungalow with a well-stocked wine bar, a lush outdoor seating area and DJ playing jazz and funky tunes, visiting this feels like crashing a Singaporean house party. $15

Sleep

There are very few choices when it comes to accommodation in the west and the north of Singapore, and you are probably better off staying in the centre and taking the train out from there. If you really want to stay in this region though, there are a handful of choices:

Budget

• Hostel One66, Block 166 Woodlands St 13 #01-545 (Near Marsiling MRT), 1.43352°, 103.77540°. A family-run 12-bed hostel. Dorms $19, singles $55 2017-07-24
• Harbour Ville Hotel, 512 Kampong Bahru Rd, 1.27261°, 103.82773°, +65 6271 2771. 100 rooms, all equipped with air-con and water heating system, and telephone services. Facilities and services are gym, concierge services, and car parks. $125+

Mid-range

• Park Avenue Rochester, 31 Rochester Drive (200 metres from Buona Vista MRT), 1.30525°, 103.78840°, +65 6808 8600. This hotel caters mostly to business clients for the nearby one-north precinct. However, if you want to explore the west of Singapore, this might be a convenient location, as it's very close to a MRT interchange. From $168 2017-07-25
• Genting Hotel Jurong, 2 Town Hall Link (Jurong East MRT), 1.3315°, 103.7393°, +65 6577 8899. A business hotel in the Jurong area. From $171 2017-07-25