Toledo is a historic city in Castilla La Mancha, sitting majestically above the Tagus River and denoted a UNESCO heritage site in 1986. It is a very worthwhile day-trip from Madrid, only half an hour by train.
The history of Toledo dates back to Roman occupation (Toletum) circa 192BC. The ruins of the Roman circus are still visible just outside the walls of the city. Roman occupation was followed by Visigoth rule, Muslim rule and finally the Reconquest of Toledo in 1085AD. Toledo was the capital of the Spanish empire until the mid-1500s when the royal court moved to Madrid. The winding, cobbled streets of the old town are often crowded with locals and tourists, as well as a surprisingly large number of cars and vans. Don't miss the 13th century cathedral or the Alcázar which sits atop the town and dates back to Roman times.
As a visitor to Toledo, you are not allowed to pick or collect anything off the street because the entire city is a gazetted monument. However, there are souvenir shops where one can buy mementos. You get a better view of the ancient city as you enjoy local meals in one of the hotels across at the banks of Tagus River.
The AVE high-speed train takes 33 minutes from Madrid's Atocha station to Toledo station 📍 and costs €10.60 + €8.50 = €19.10 for a same day round trip, and you have to specify your return time at time of purchase. Boarding starts 20–30 minutes prior to departure and the gate will close 5 minutes before schedule.
In Madrid, you will find vending machines for railway tickets. However, be careful with the red vending machines signed "Cercanias." For foreigners it will be easier still to use the Renfe website to purchase tickets or to use a manned ticket booth. If you chose to buy at the booth, be careful with timing - perhaps go the day before - because you may not be guaranteed a seat or the time you want.
From Toledo station, urban buses numbers 5, 22, 61, or 62 stop on the street in front of the train station and take you to Plaza de Zocodover, the city center. The buses are €1.60 (pay the driver). All passengers must exit at Zocodover as it is the last stop on the route. It's a pleasant 30 minute downhill walk back to the train station. City buses are blue; a private company operates red buses that wait outside the train station and charge €2.50 for the same route as number 5.
From Madrid, Toledo is about 70 km southwest on the A-42 freeway, which is marked "Toledo" on all road signs. This used to be labelled the N-401, and old maps or signs may still refer to that, although almost all road signage appears to have been updated. There is often spot congestion during peak hours, sometimes as far out as Parla (25 km).
Parking on the narrow cobbled streets of inner Toledo is virtually impossible except for short loading/unloading stops, but there's a big garage in Calle de Santa Úrsula, right in the centre.
Buses run between Toledo and Madrid's Plaza Elíptica bus station (on the grey Circular metro line) every half hour until 21:30. The company is Alsa (old Continental-Auto). The trip takes about one hour and a return ticket costs €9.75. From the Toledo bus terminal it is a steep but picturesque 20-minute walk up to the old town. A local bus service is also available. To catch a local bus from the Toledo bus station to the center of town, head out of the station for a bit and you will see a bus stand, catch a bus going to Plaza Zocodover. Among other buses you can also catch Line 5 from the same stop which runs every 15 minutes and will drop you off right in front of Plaza Zocodover.
Arm yourself with a map to avoid getting completely lost!
You may actually want to get lost in Toledo. Take some time to lose yourself in Toledo's medieval streets. The city is surrounded by the River Tagus on three sides and two medieval walls on the fourth side. The old city is relatively small and can be crossed in 45 minutes, so you are never too far from the center. When you want to head back, just head uphill and you are virtually guaranteed to end up at the main plaza, Plaza de Zocodover.
The gold and black enamel work by local artisans is known throughout Spain. Many shops in Toledo sell decorated plates, shields, spoons and key rings.
Sword - Toledo is well known for its swords, so be sure to look for a conquistador sword, which should set you back around US$300. As you can't bring it on a plane, you'll need to send it. Fortunately, many shops will ship it for you for a reasonable price.
Ceramics - Talavera de la Reina (outside of Toledo) has a centuries-old tradition of glazed ceramics. Toledo is filled with handpainted ceramics of varying degrees of quality (upscale shops and boutiques are pricier, but generally carry higher-quality pieces).
Damascene - Another famous handicraft of Toledo is damascene, from the ancient Moorish art of interlacing gold on iron or steel, then firing it so the underlying material oxidizes and becomes black, with the gold in sharp relief. Every shop in Toledo will carry some form of damascene work, most frequently as small decorative plates and jewellery. Damascene also tends to be on the expensive side, so be sure to comparison shop around Toledo. The traditional manufacturing process consists of several steps, as it is shown in MadeInToledo.com.
If you want authentic paella, Toledo is not your best option because it is so far inland.
The region around Toledo and southward in Castilla La Mancha produces typical almond sweets known as Mazapán, which is not to be confused with the Scandinavian almond paste called "marzipan". Mazapán is glazed, and sometimes decorated with pine nuts (piñones). The most famous bakery making this sweet in all of Spain is arguably the Confiteria Santo Tomé, which is particularly crowded just before Christmas when shoppers from all over Spain come to Toledo to buy some Mazapán for their Christmas parties.
Try Picaro or Circulo de Arte for a hip night scene, Circulo de Arte is in a renovated church and plays good dance music. It also has some of the best batidos (milkshakes) in town! O´Brian's serves good tap beer, and boasts a strong tourist and student crowd most nights.
Toledo has plenty of accommodation, though it still can be difficult to get a room during the peak period from July to September. Many international visitors prefer to visit on a day trip from Madrid. Toledo is a popular weekend destination for Spaniards, leading to room rates are 20 to 30% higher on Fridays and Saturdays compared with midweek.
Toledo is a relatively small town, and so is rather safe. Toledo's medieval streets are labyrinthine, so the biggest danger is getting lost, especially at night.
Due to the location of Toledo upon the top of a hill, the city is exposed to quite a bit of sunshine in comparison to Madrid. Therefore the average temperature you sense may be considerably higher than what you would expect from the forecast. Temperatures can be in the high 30s C (100°F) as late as nine in the evening. Be sure to bring plenty of water or get some refreshments in Toledo to support the local shopkeepers. Do not forget to put on sufficient sunblock on a hot summer day or try to stay in the shades of buildings and trees.
The historic center of Toledo is rather steep and hilly and most streets are cobblestone, so sensible shoes are a must. Those with wheeled luggage might also struggle
Oropesa is a picturesque hill-top town with a huge castle on the way to Extremadura
Los Gredos has a variety of scenic 1,000+ meter hill tops and provides a good route up to Avila if you have your own car.
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