Most Indians know of Udupi not as a place, but as a category of restaurants. Udupi restaurants that generally serve vegetarian food in the South Indian style can be found all over India. Not many know of the sleepy coastal town from which this great cuisine originated, Still fewer know of its reputation as the location of a Krishna temple and a monastery established by the founder of one of the three main philosophical strains of present-day Hinduism.
Many, however, have heard of Manipal, a major educational centre, and a suburb of Udupi, that attracts students from all over India and internationally.
The town of Udupi lies in Udupi taluka which in turn is in Udupi district. This article covers the taluka. To its north is Kundapura and to its west is Karkala, at the foothills of the Western Ghats. To the south of Udupi is Mangalore, which is the headquarters of the Dakshina Kannada district.
Politically, Udupi had an uneventful history. It was ruled by various feudatories of the Mysore kings till it was taken over by the British, who then made it part of the administrative district of Kanara, which was then divided into South and North Kanara. Udupi was part of the former. After independence, South Kanara became Dakshina Kannada, and in 1998, Udupi district was hived off from Dakshina Kannada.
Its claim to fame is as a religious and spiritual centre. Udupi is the headquarters of the Maadhva sect of Hinduism. This sect was established by the sage Madhvacharya in the 13th century. He propounded the Dvaita philosophy, which is commonly translated as dualism, rivaling the older Advaita (non-dualism) philosophy propounded by Sankaracharya,
Maadhvas are Vaishnavites, worshippers of Vishnu, of whose many incarnations Krishna is one. The Krishna temple Madhvacharya worshipped at is the heart of the city, and a major pilgrimage destination.
Udupi had a nascent career as a financial hub till the 1960s, with many banks being established here, but most of them got nationalized. Manipal, a suburb of Udupi city, is an important educational and medical centre owing to the efforts of T M A Pai in the 1960s.
The weather is fairly equable throughout the year, due to the nearby Arabian sea. Temperature ranges from 30 to 35 °C in day time and is around 25 °C at night. Humidity is normally high most of the time.
The rainy season is from June to September. At this time the monsoon shows its colours. Within seconds, you could find yourself soaked in rain water.
The best time to visit is October to March, when the weather is cool. April and May will be hot and June to September will be wet, so if you are visiting during this time, you will spend most of your time indoors. But then, April and May is when you get the ripe mangoes, and June to September is when the rains make the area green and beautiful, so life isn't fair.
Udupi is well-connected with the cities on India's west coast. NH-66 (formerly NH-17) runs right through Udupi, connecting it to Mumbai and Goa to the North and Mangalore and Kochi to the South. Konkan Railway connects Udupi to the same cities. The city is around 406 km from Bangalore, the capital of Karnataka. Rail connectivity with Bangalore is good, but travelling by road is a good option, as you are exposed to the beauty of the nature. The road journey through Agumbe ghats is really mesmerizing.
Mangalore International Airport (IATA: IXE) is 59 km from Udupi. The airport is well-connected with major Indian cities and a few Middle-eastern destinations.
Pre-paid taxis (non air-conditioned) can be booked from the counter inside the arrival terminal. They take approximately 1½ hours to reach.
Goa's Dabolim airport (IATA: GOI) is around 300 km from Udupi. Getting in via Goa is not the most practical or convenient way to get to Udupi, but if you are planning to combine a vacation in Goa, this is a good option.
Udupi is a major station on the Konkan railway route. There are connections with Mumbai, Bangalore and Mangalore. Major trains including Rajdhani Express stop at Udupi Railway Station. A night train is available from Mangalore to Bangalore, known as the Mangalore-Bangalore express. Yeshwantpur-Karwar express is another train which connects Bangalore to Udupi and runs on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
Udupi is located right on National Highway NH-66 (formerly NH-17) connecting Kochi with Mumbai. See Karavali#Get in about the lowdown on this route. This connects Udupi with Kerala, Coastal Karnataka (including Mangalore), Goa, and the Konkan region of Maharashtra. Drive in on your own only if you are used to driving on Indian highways. Alternatively, hire a driver or take a cab.
From Bangalore, you first must come to Mangalore via roads which mostly pass through zig-zag hilly roads, or ghats. NH-75 (formerly NH-48) is the road that connects Bangalore and Mangalore, which passes through Shiradi Ghat. However, the ghat roads seem to get damaged every year during the monsoon, so make inquiries in advance and decide which of the four ghats is relatively passable and adjust that portion of the route accordingly.
Buses regularly ply from major southern cities and Maharashtra to Udupi. Choose from the Volvos (AC buses), Airbuses or KSRTC buses depending on your budget. Private buses generally have two stops in Udupi — the service bus stand at the centre of the city, and near Tiger circle at Manipal. It is one-hour journey from Mangalore (around 60 km). Regular buses ply from Mangalore very frequently, both AC and non-AC. You will easily get those from either Mangalore KSRTC bus stand or from the public bus stand (locally called the State Bank bus stand). It is also well connected from nearby towns like Murudeshwar, Karwar or Gokarna.
Buses, cabs and auto-rickshaws are ways to get around the city. Udupi has excellent city bus services run by various private companies. Buses generally start and end at the main bus stand. There are bus stops throughout the city. Ask around. Tickets can be bought once you board or from the conductor just before boarding. Rates start from ₹5 per 2 km.
Hired cabs are available, though they can't be hailed off the street. They are unmetered, but as a general guide, ₹15 per kilometer for an non-airconditioned compact car for short distances is a good starting point.
Autorickshaws can be found on the street, and are generally a cheap mode to travel. For autos, fares start at ₹25 for the first 1.5 km and go up by ₹16 every kilometer after that. This is assuming that they agree to go by the meter, which they generally do not. Nonetheless, this is a good guide to estimate the rate you should agree to.
Walking around the city when the weather is good is a nice experience. There aren't any footpaths, though, so you will have to share the side of the road with autos and bikes.
Udupi has some nice beaches, lush greenery, the quaint charm of a small town and many temples. Many of the places to visit are not very well known to many people outside of Udupi. If you are an adventurous person who loves nature, there is a lot to explore in Udupi.
The heart of Udupi is undoubtedly the Krishna temple complex. It comprises of, in addition to the main temple, two other historic temples - Anantheshwara and Chandramouleshwara, all connected by the Ratha beedi or "chariot street", so called because on festive occasions such as the "Paryaya", the deity is taken in procession in temple chariots. The chariots themselves are usually stationed at Ratha beedi.
In addition to propounding a philosophy and performing miracles, Madhvacharya also established a monastic order with eight main monasteries (or "mutts"). All around the Ratha beedi are the eight mutts (ashtamathas).
20th century additions to the area are the Gita Mandira and the Rajangana, where cultural programmes and discourses held, a short walk away. The Ratha Beedi is also a shopping street.
How the Krishna idol came to be
While the temple is over 1500 years old, it came into prominence due to Madhvacharya who is also credited with installing the current idol. Legend has it that Madhvacharya used his divine powers to save a ship that was in the thick of a storm. The ship happened to have set sail from Dwaraka, the legendary home of Krishna, and was carrying an idol of him. The captain of the ship, in gratitude, gifted the idol to his saviour, who then went on to install it in the Krishna temple.
Sri Krishna Temple and Mutt, Ratha Beedi (Chariot Street), 13.34112°, 74.75201°, +91 820-252 0598. 5AM-9:30PM. A complex of temples and monasteries located near the Madhva Sarovara, or Madhvacharya's pond.
The main temple is constructed in the architectural style typical in Kerala and Dakshina Kannada, with multiple layers around the inner sanctum sanctorum, with no massive sikhara over it as is found elsewhere in South India. There are shrines to subordinate deities including Garuda and Hanuman. On special occasions, the temple area is beautifully decorated with flowers and lamps.
Offerings can be made and "prasadam" can be bought inside. The temple offers free lunch to everyone at three dining halls, or Bhojana Shaalas.
Free 2018-08-02
Kanakana Kindi (Kanaka's Window), Ratha Beedi, 13.34129°, 74.75180°. 24 hrs. The unusual feature of Udupi's Krishna temple is that the statue faces west, and away from the devotees. To catch a glimpse of the deity, you need to make your way to Kanaka's window. The reason for this, apparently, is that a lower-caste devotee named Kanakadasa was denied entry into the temple, so he tried worshiping from a small window outside it. The Lord was so pleased at his devotion that He turned around to face the window. The window is now named after him, and a massive Gopura (or tower) has since been built over it. Free 2020-12-04
Madhva Sarovara, 13.34133°, 74.75232°. Madhva Sarovara is right next to the temple and is accessible from both inside and outside of it. has a "mantapa" or canopy at its centre, and the pond is often beautifully lit. A bath at the sarovara may or may not be possible. Inquire before taking the plunge. 2020-12-04
Anantheshwara temple, 13.34102°, 74.75177°. This is a temple dedicated to Parashurama, another incarnation of Vishnu, and according to legend, the creator of the landmass encompassing Udupi, Dakshina Kannada and Kerala. The temple dates back to the 8th century. 2020-12-04
Chandramouleshwara temple, 13.34080°, 74.75215°. Right next to the Krishna temple is this temple dedicated to Shiva, to whom, according to legend, the moon (Chandra) prayed at this spot. 2020-12-04
Udupi has some great beaches, but thankfully, they aren't big water sports destinations like Goa, though there are some options. If you are the adventurous sort, you can head south to Mulki, Mangalore where the Ashram surf retreat combines surfing with spiritualism.
If the mountains are what you are after, turn east to Karkala, where Agumbe and other places provide some excellent trekking opportunities.
For a cultural experience, try to catch a performance of Yakshagana, a Bhoota Kola or a Naga Mandala. The latter two are essentially religious rituals, but a sight to watch. The Yakshagana is a genre of dance-drama that is native to the Karavali region. The performances are advertised only in local Kannada newspapers, so it might be somewhat difficult to catch them. Also, to fully appreciate Yakshagana, you need to understand Kannada or Tulu.
Paryaya. Madhvacharya decreed that after he passed on, the heads of the eight mutts and their successors would head the main Udupi mutt in rotation for two months each. One of his notable later day successors, Vadiraja of Sode Matha, who lived during the 16th century, changed the tenure from two months to two years. This practice, called Paryaya continues to this day. The handover to the new head of Udupi mutt happens on 18 January on even numbered years, and is an occasion for much celebration and many religious ceremonies. 2020-12-08
Stay at a Houseboat, Paradise Isle Beach Resort Pvt. Ltd., Malpe Beach, 13.3605°, 74.6989°, +91 820-253 8777, +91 820-253 8666, resort@theparadiseisle.com. The trip takes you to Paradise Lagoon. Package includes all meals. It is not clear if packages of shorter duration are available - call to ask. The resort also offers normal rooms, and has some options for water sports as well. ₹14,000 for 2 nights, 3 days
Seethanadi Nature Camp, Hebri Karkala Taluk (36 km east of Udupi on NH169A, a few kilometres beyond Hebri village), 13.4714°, 75.0188°, +91 94495 99758. Whitewater rafting during monsoon season. Best time of visit is from July to late January. This rustic resort offers accommodations and activities. 2023-02-14
While Udupi, like any other city of moderate size, offers many opportunities to shop, and the Ratha Beedi area around the temple is a popular and interesting destination to buy what the city is best known for. Most people who visit the temple combine their religious sojourn with a shopping expedition. On festive occasions, the area around the Krishna temple comes abuzz with many temporary shops set up for the occasion.
Befitting Udupi's status as a culinary paradise, many of the items on the must-shop list at Ratha Beedi are culinary. Snacks and juice extracts top the list. Spices and oils used in traditional Udupi cooking can also be bought here. Shops that sell vessels and other implements used to prepare Udupi-style cuisine are scattered all over the street. Among these are aluminium pans to make guliyappa and the aruvamane used to scrape coconuts.
Other items to look out for are wood handicraft items such as agarbatti stands, idols of deities, and altars. This is also a good place to buy Ayurvedic medicines and massage oils.
Clothing, particularly silk sarees but also other traditional Indian and western dresses, and jewellery are the other two big items that are on many visitors' shopping lists in Udupi.
For your saree/dress purchases:
Udupi is famous for traditional jewellery. Famous jewellers are:
You can also buy traditional packaged food here. Wheat halwa and banana halwa that is made up of ghee and banana chips are well-known local specialities. Mango pickles from here are great as well. Purchase these items from any local store. Enquire in any of these local stores for other local coastal delicacies.
See also: South Asian cuisine
The story of Matti Gulla
Vadiraja Swamy, a 16th century successor of Madhvacharya, was a great devotee of Hayagreeva, the deity that is reputed to be an Avatar of Vishnu in the form of a horse. He also had rivals who once tried to poison his food. But because he always offered his food to his god before consuming it, they effectively ended up offering poison to the deity. When said rivals realized their folly, they rushed to Vadiraja and asked for forgiveness and asked how they could make amends. Vadiraja, through his supernatural powers, gave them a few seeds of eggplant and asked them to plant them in Matti, a village near Udupi. The resulting variety of eggplant would be free of all "poison" - i.e. it would have a mild taste and be easy on the stomach. To this day, the variety of eggplant grown in Matti, known as Matti Gulla, is famous for these properties.
The vegetarian cuisine of Udupi is famous all over India and among Indians abroad. For this reputation, it must thank the Sri Krishna temple and its traditions. The temple offers free food to everyone who wants to partake of it. The cooks have traditionally been the Brahmins belonging to the Shivalli sect, who, over the centuries, have perfected the art of cooking that adheres to "Satvik" principles. This requires not just vegetarianism but also the avoidance of onion and garlic, as these are said to excite the baser senses. In spite of these limitations, the food of Udupi tastes great, with subtle flavours.
While the eat section of the Karavali article more than adequately covers the cuisine you are likely to encounter here, Udupi has some items of food that are unique to the place. One of them is the matti gulla (see infobox) a variant of eggplant. Ibbulle, a kind of musk melon is a speciality here. The best way to consume it is by turning it into rasayana, a kind of thick, pulpy juice. Ibbulle is such a localized fruit that there are people who've lived in Mangalore all their lives and have never heard of the fruit. Then there is hayagreeva maddi a sweet made of chickpea, coconut and jaggery that is offered as prasadam to Hayagreeva (see infobox). Golibaje, a traditional fried snack item made from maida (all-purpose flour) and yoghurt, is another speciality of Udupi. Also, try out the "charmuri upkari", a famous snack from the handcarts around Rathabeedi. The ginger soda is a famous drink available in many local shops.
Meat-eaters will not be disappointed in Udupi either. Do not forget to try the famous non-veg dishes kori sukha (chicken in spicy masala with grated coconut), kori rotti (chicken curry with crisp rice roti). Seafood here is great as well. Some common local fish are bangude fish and king fish. Definitely try the bangude tawa fry or the fish thali which is available at many restaurants__.__
At Malpe beach, visit the fish fry shop just outside the beach. Prices start from Rs 30. .
If you are looking for international cuisines, Manipal is the place to go to.
Udupi restaurants
Udupi restaurants are not just found in Udupi. Starting from the middle of the 20th century, many people from Udupi (and the Karavali region in general) migrated to Mumbai for better career opportunities. Often, the migrants were bachelors who naturally craved food from back home, and a significant number were Brahmins who would not let go of caste related taboos against eating food cooked by non-Brahmins. The Udupi restaurants came up in Mumbai to cater to this group of people. Very soon, these eateries, serving cheap, nutritious and vegetarian food became very popular and spread all over India. However, very few of these restaurants have stayed true to their roots - and today, you are likely to find the usual South Indian-North Indian-Chinese cuisines in those restaurants.
It is fair to say that Udupi, being a temple town, is not a great place to have alcoholic drinks, and this sleepy town is not known for a vibrant night life. Manipal, however, is a short hop away from the city centre, famous for its student population, and this is where you go if you want a drink.
You can try the unfermented toddy which is extracted early morning from coconut trees. This can usually be found near the beaches. Be very very careful about the quality and safety, however.
Hotels are reasonably priced and cheap. Most hotels are concentrated around the city centre and the temple. The other option is to look for a hotel near Manipal, which is more expensive. The Paradise Island Beach Resort (see under "Do") is an option if you are looking for a beach holiday.
To the west of Udupi lies the historic town of Karkala, which is a major religious centre for Jainism. There stands a 42-feet statue of the saint Bahubali (known as Gomateshwara), completely naked, as is the custom. At Moodabidri in Dakshina Kannada district, there is a Jain temple with thousand pillars (saavira kambada basadi).
There are many Hindu religious sites in the neighbourhood of Udupi. At Kollur in Byndoor taluk, there is a famous temple dedicated to the Goddess Mookambika.Further north is Uttara Kannada, home to many nice beaches like the Murudeshwar beach, around 150 km away, and Gokarna beach, around 250 km away. North of Uttara Kannada is Goa, which is around 5 hours by car.
Other attractions