Vientiane (Lao: ວຽງຈັນ, Vieng Chan) is the capital of Laos.
With its stunning temples, vibrant night markets, and beautiful French-Indochinese architecture, Vientiane is the perfect destination for an adventurous getaway. From the lively street food stalls to the traditional craft markets, Vientiane has something for everyone and the city is sure to provide a unique and unforgettable experience.
Not too long ago, Vientiane was often described as sleepy and charming. However, the combination of exploding population — Vientiane has over doubled in size since 2000, reaching some 750,000 people in the 2020 census — and the frenetic Chinese-led investment boom and bust has led to considerable growing pains, with strip malls, traffic jams and abandoned construction sites throughout the city, and the French colonial villas of the old town now stand cheek to jowl with various concrete monstrosities, tied together with spiderwebs of power cables.
Nevertheless, the city has retained some charms, like plenty of gold-encrusted temples, a remarkably cosmopolitan dining scene and a pleasant riverside promenade by the Mekong River. So after you've done the round of temples, the best thing to do here has always been to wander down to the riverside, relax with a cold Beerlao, the Lao national beer, and watch the sun set on the Mekong.
Settled since at least 1000 CE, Vientiane became an important administrative city of the Kingdom of Lan Xang ("million elephants") in 1545. Ransacked in 1828 by the Siamese, Vientiane sprung back to be again named the capital of the protectorate of Laos by the French, a position it kept after independence (1953) and after the communists took over in 1975. Today Vientiane is far and away the largest city in Laos.
Vientiane stretches along the northeast bank of a bend in the Mekong River. From the riverbank inland, the main roads running parallel to the river are Fa Ngum Rd, Setthathirat Rd, and Samsenthai Rd. The central district, Chanthabuli, contains most of Vientiane's governmental offices, hotels, and restaurants. Vientiane's widest boulevard, Lane Xang Rd, runs from the Presidential Palace (now used for governmental offices and for state receptions) to the northeast around Patuxai, the Victory Gate, towards Pha That Luang, the That Luang Stupa, the most important religious monument in Laos.
Vientiane has the same climate as most of Laos (and Thailand, for that matter). The hot season from March to May cranks the mercury as high as 40°C, and the humidity makes it feel like 50°C. The slightly cooler wet season is from May-Oct, when temperatures are around 30°C, tropical downpours are frequent (especially Jul-Aug), and some years the Mekong floods. The best but also busiest time to visit is the dry season from November to February, when daytime highs are around 30°C, nighttime lows a pleasant 20°C and rain is rare.
Vientiane Wattay Airport (IATA: VTE), 17.9881°, 102.563°. Vientiane's pint-sized, centrally-located airport was last expanded in 2020 and is reasonably efficient and pleasant. Both domestic and international flights now operate from different wings of the same terminal. Landside facilities include currency exchange places with surprisingly good rates and a handful of cafes and shops. The best restaurant in terms of price and selection is Le Moon Cafe & Restaurant on the second floor of the international section. Once you're through passport control, though, facilities are limited to a bar counter with draft Beerlao, a Starbucks clone with cup noodles, and hysterically overpriced gift shops. 2022-10-25
Flights were cut severely during the COVID outbreak, when Laos was hermetically sealed off from the world, and are still much more limited than they used to be. As of Oct 2022, there are international flights from:
From neighboring countries, it is often cheaper and relatively painless to travel to Vientiane overland rather than by air.
From Bangkok, many visitors fly into Udon Thani in Thailand, and cross the border by bus, as this domestic flight is considerably cheaper than a direct international flight to Vientiane. There is a direct shuttle from Udon Thani airport to the Thai/Lao border at Nong Khai (about 50 km away) for 200 baht, and there are also direct cross-border bus services from Udon Thani (the city, not the airport) to Vientiane. This option (flight, bus transfers and immigration clearance at 2 points) takes at least 2 hours longer than a direct Bangkok to Vientiane flight. You may have difficulty getting an international bus to Laos if you do not already hold a visa. Bus conductors sometimes check for this, as the buses do not wait at the border long enough for the painfully slow visa on arrival process.
There are domestic flights from:
There is an airport bus service to and from Wattay International Airport, city center and Central Bus Station. The fare is 15,000 kip per person (March 2020), and buses run roughly once an hour from 08:20 to 20:00. The bus stop at the airport is at the International Arrivals exit (buy your ticket from the helpful bus information desk, then turn right upon exiting). Bus stops at the city center are along Setthathilath, Samsenthai and Pangkham Rd. The bus stop at the Central Bus Station is along Nongbone Road a few meters away from the International Bus Ticket Office.
Many hotels offer a pickup service from the airport, or you can take a fixed-price taxi coupon for around US$7. Rides to the airport should be around half this price. If you don't mind walking the distance between the airport and the main road (less than 500 m), you can take a local bus for less than US$1.
Vientiane has two separate train stations, which are over 20 km apart and not connected by train. Neither is anywhere near the city center. If leaving by train, be sure your ride is going to the right one!
From Dec 2021, a high speed standard gauge railway runs from Kunming in China via Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng to Vientiane. Because of Covid, no passenger trains cross the Chinese border: the nearby road crossing remains open but there are onerous restrictions on travellers, especially non-citizens. Domestic trains meanwhile run on the separate Chinese and Laotian sections. The Chinese timetable has not been published. One train runs daily from Vientiane at 08:00 via Phonhong, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, Muang Xay and Luang Namtha to Boten at the border. It returns south shortly after midday to reach Vientiane by 15:30. A later train plies between Vientiane and Luang Prabang (2 hr) but doesn't extend to Boten. Much faster and much more comfortable than buses, the train is incredibly popular and it's very difficult to procure tickets, so most travellers outsource the legwork to a travel agency. See Laos#By train for details.
Vientiane railway station, also signposted as the Lao-China Railway Station, is the south terminus of this railway, intended one day to reach Bangkok. It's on the northeast edge of the city towards the new National Stadium, 15 km from downtown in the middle of fields of grazing goats. There are no obvious public transport options, although Bus line 28 is supposed to connect to the Central Bus Station (Morning Market/Talat Sao). A taxi/Loca to the city center costs around 80,000 kip (US$4).
The station operates in a Chinese style, meaning that tickets and matching ID are required to enter the station and security inspections were in place, mostly looking for flammable sprays. Liquids are OK. Despite the station's cavernous size, as of October 2022 facilities are minimal, consisting of a single coffee shop inside the departures area. If you have more time to kill, there's a simple cafe in the 2nd floor "Shopping Area" outside security, plus a ramshackle collection of stalls a few hundred meters away outside. There are no ATMs, money changers, convenience stores, proper restaurants etc.
One daytime and two overnight trains take 11-12 hours from Bangkok Hualamphong via Ayutthaya to Nong Khai on the border, where you're stamped out of Thailand and may have to pay departure tax. Sleeper train 25 is met by a shuttle train, which rattles over the Friendship Bridge across the Mekong into Laos, stopping the traffic which shares the bridge. This takes barely 10 min to Tha Naleng, where you get your visa and are stamped into Laos. In 2021 the sleeper fare was about 1200 baht in first class and 900 in second, the shuttle was 20-30 baht, and then there's your visa fee and onward minibus to Vientiane to pay. See State Railway of Thailand for timetables and fares.
You can also take any train or bus to Nong Khai then a tuk-tuk across the Friendship Bridge. The railway station is 1.5 km short of the bridge, the bus station is further. In normal times there are more services to Nong Khai and over the bridge, but these are scaled back by COVID. Decline all offers of combi-fares with visa fee or onward travel to Vientiane, these are poor value.
Tha Naleng or Dongphosy is the current terminus of the metre-gauge railway from Thailand, 20 km east of Vientiane and 4 km north of the border. "Tha Naleng" is possibly Laotian for "middle of nowhere" and you might pay 150 baht for a minibus onward to Vientiane. In mid-2023, Thai-Lao trains are scheduled to move to the new Khamsavath station (สถานีรถไฟคำสะหวาด), only 4.5 km from the city center.
Southbound to Bangkok take the afternoon shuttle from Tha Naleng to connect with Sleeper train 26, which leaves shortly after 19:00 to reach Bangkok for 06:00. Trains 25 / 26 are modern Chinese rolling stock, see Thailand#Get around by train for descriptions of standards on board.
Bus tickets can be bought from various travel agents in Vientiane. Transport by songthaew to designated bus terminal is invariably included in the price. It may happen that instead of going to the bus terminal the songthaew will stop at the roadside near the bus terminal and you will wait there until the bus departures and comes to pick you up. Due to this arrangement you will get to choose the last available seats. According to the songthaew driver it's because the bus station is too crowded and it's more comfortable to wait at the roadside.
The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (Saphan Mittaphap) from Nong Khai, Thailand is the most common means of entry. The bridge cannot be crossed on foot or by bicycle (however, people have been seen strolling the bridge), but there are frequent 20 baht shuttle buses just past Thai immigration. Bicycles can be carried on buses in the cargo compartment.
When exiting Laos via the bridge, there are no immigration fees, except on weekends when a token 9,000 kip or 40 baht (2010) "overtime charge" might apply. Just walk past the exit fee booth. If no one stops you, you haven't done anything wrong.
Direct buses to/from Nong Khai (55 baht), Khon Kaen (180 baht) and Udon Thani (80 baht) arrive and depart from the Morning Market (Talat Sao) bus terminal. These are cheap, comfortable, hassle-free, and popular, so book ahead or arrive early. Schedules change often. The buses start at 08:00 and leave every 2 hours or so, until 18:00. These buses are not an option if you plan to obtain a Lao visa on arrival at the bridge. The bus will not wait long enough. To get from the Udon airport to the Friendship Bridge, a 200-baht minibus fare can be purchased in the airport and will drop you off on the Thai side of the bridge.
Visas on arrival are available at the bridge. If you forgot your passport photo, they'll photocopy your passport for an extra US$1/40 baht (or do it on the Thai side for just 2 baht). When you get a visa on arrival, you get the entry stamp at the same time, so you don't have to wait in line afterwards. A 40-baht (or 9,000-kip) entry fee is sometimes charged once through. Just walk past the entry fee booth. If no one stops you, you haven't done anything wrong.
Once through immigration, you can take a jumbo (posted price 250 baht, easy to bargain down to 100 baht or less for immediate departure with only one passenger) or taxi (300 baht) to any destination in the city. Shared jumbos are cheaper. You should be able to negotiate to a good deal less than 50 baht/person if you're prepared to share (and possibly wait).
The local bus (usually Bus 14) to Talat Sao (Morning Market) is the cheapest of all, 7,000 kip, but signs are nonexistent and you may be in for a wait (up to 20 minutes). The bus runs until at least 18:45 or so. It's about 25 km from the bridge to Vientiane; allow at least 30 minutes. In the opposite direction the last bus leaves Talat Sao for the bridge and Buddha Park at 17:30 according to the timetable, but it may run later. Don't believe anyone who tells you the last bus has gone. Just ask the bus driver.
When going to the Friendship Bridge avoid the tuk-tuk/songthaew drivers insisting it is late, slow, or gone and wanting 50,000 kip to drive you to the border before dumping you there at the mercy of their Thai equivalents on the other side.
Bridge immigration shuts quite late, around 22:00. But check with the locals if you are unsure.
Khon Kaen-Vientiane direct bus, 185 baht, departs twice daily from Khon Kaen Bus Terminal (Prab-argat) at 07:45 (usually delayed till 08:00) and arrives at Vientiane Talat Sao Bus Station around 12:00. A second bus departs at 15:15.
A direct bus from Hanoi takes at least 20 hours (despite what the travel agents might say it averages 24 hr) and should cost about US$15-20. There is a twice weekly VIP bus (better seats) and a local bus that departs every day. With the local bus you're not certain of a seat and Vietnamese people tend to sit and never get up again until arrival.
The journey from Hue is 14-18 hr and should cost US$20-30. The bus arrives to Southern Terminal where you have to bargain hard with tuk-tuks. The ride to town after midnight is 30,000 kip. There are local buses heading towards town from here that usually stop at the central market priced at about 10,000 kip.
The bus trip from Phnom Penh to Vientiane costs about US$50 if you go VIP. This means you get a sleeper (bed) for the night portion of your trip. Unless, however, you have a partner you will share the rather small bed with a random passenger of the same gender. The bed is comfortable, though there have been reports of leaking windows and flooded mattresses.
At the Lao-Cambodian border, essentially the same form has to be filled out numerous times (to ensure each official gets his fee). If you can't carry your luggage 500 m from the Cambodian border post to the Lao, you're out of luck. The bus staff will have disappeared by now. The border process is hot, slow, and enervating.
Regardless of what the travel agent or bus company tells you, the Phnom Penh-Vientiane (or return) trip usually involves four separate buses, not two. The [Phnom Penh-Lao border and Pakse-Vientiane legs are comfortable enough. However, between the border and Pakse (Southern Laos) you will be crammed into a minibus or open van, sit on other people's laps, etc., as the vehicle does the rounds of every guesthouse in the region. You will eventually be transferred into another van, and the process repeated. It can take 4-6 hours, and it is seldom clear where you are, where you are going, or who is in charge.
If the bus staff talks you into putting your luggage on a second bus, because of space problems, it is liable to vanish along the road. The bus trip between Phnom Penh and Vientiane averages 27 hours.
Buses to and from destinations in Vientiane Prefecture depart from the Talat Sao bus terminal, just east of the Morning Market. There is an informative schedule and schematic diagram of the bus station painted on the central building, which is where you can also buy tickets.
From Luang Prabang you can catch an overnight VIP bus for around 130,000 kip. Prepare for an uncomfortable, bumpy, winding journey with a 01:30 rest stop for a free bowl of soup with noodles at some unmarked place in the middle of nowhere before being dumped in Vientiane at 06:30.
From Vang Vieng, Soutchai Travel has two daily buses (09:30 and 14:00, pickup 30 minutes beforehand) that drop you off in downtown Vientiane (at their office on Chao Anou Road). The ticket cost 50,000 kip (Dec 2019).
Bus Stop for Vang Vieng, 17.9672°, 102.6068°. Large VIP buses and mini-buses leave to Vang Vieng from here. Mini-vans will pick up passengers from hotels and bring them to this point. Avoid being picked up too early by walking to this location that's near to many guest houses and hotels.
Some buses are available from there at the same price as the south bus station, most notably Tha Khaek and Pakse.
This terminal is used by all buses coming from the south. Typical destinations are Tha Khaek (60,000 kip) and Pakse.
Southern Bus Terminal, Kaisone Phomvihane Rd, the first stretch of Rte 13 South (10 km northeast of the centre). It's quite far from town which leaves you at the mercy of the tuk-tuks (starting from 15,000 kip if you are lucky). Public Bus 23 stops by the entrance of the southern bus station and connects it with the Talat Sao bus terminal (Morning Market) at 5,000 kip, from where it is a ten-minute walk into the tourist centre. Mind that the existence of the city buses is going to be vigorously denied by most people you ask, as many have stakes in passenger transportation, and want you to take their ride instead. Bus 29 goes to the center (3,000 kip, ~20 min). 2016-03-25
The northern bus station is about 10 km from the city centre on the T2 Road (now called Asiane Road), is where all buses to the north arrive and depart.
A tuk-tuk will probably try to charge you about 50,000 kip. Don't pay more than 10,000 kip. One person including baggage costs 20,000 kip (Feb 2012).
To | Departs at | Price (kip) | Duration (Hours) | Comments | Updated |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Luang Prabang (Local) | 06:30, 07:30, 08:30, 11:00, 13:30, 16:00, 18:00 | 110,000 | 11-12 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | |
Luang Prabang (Vip) | 08:00, 10:00 (via Vang Vieng), 20:00 | 145,000 | <small>Jul 2013</small> | ||
Vang Vieng (VIP) | 10:00 and others | ? | <small>Jul 2013</small> | ||
Oudom Xay (Local) | 06:45,13:45 | 130,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Oudom Xay (VIP) | 16:00 | 170,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Oudom Xay (Local ?) | 17:00 | 150,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Luang Namtha (Local) | 08:30, 17:00 | 180,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Phongsaly (Local) | 07:00 | 190,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Xam Neua (Local) | 07:00, 09:30, 12:00 | 170,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Xam Neua (Local ?) | 14:00 | 190,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Xien Khung (Phonsavan) (Local) | 06:30, 07:30, 09:30, 16:00, 18:40 | 110,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Xien Khung (Phonsavan) (VIP) | 20:00 | 130,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Nong Hat (Local) | 11:00 | 150,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Xaysomboun (Local) | 07:30 | 80,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Sayabouly (Local) | 09:00, 16:00 | 110,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Sayabouly (Local ?) | 18:00 | 130,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Pak Lay (Local) | 08:00 | 90,000 | 6-7 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | |
KenetHao (Local) | 10:00 | 100,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Sana Kham (Local) | 06:30, 07:30 | 70,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> | ||
Bokeo (Houay Xai) (Local) | 17:30 | 230,000 | <small>Jun 2011</small> |
For bus schedules, see the images taken at the various bus stations at Hobo Maps.
Vientiane may be on the mighty Mekong, but it lives more in fear than in love with the river. There are no bridges across it in Vientiane, and there are no docks. A new levee is being built that will separate the town from the river by 100 m of parkland. As such, boat travel from Vientiane on the Mekong is extremely rare, slow, and expensive, especially travelling upstream.
Getting around Vientiane is generally easy, as the traffic is far less murderous than in larger Southeast Asian cities like Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City. Street signs are rather lacking, although in the centre more and more signs are appearing. Where there are signs displaying street names they are bilingual in Lao and French. The Lao word "thanon" on these signs is translated by "road", "rue", "avenue" or "boulevard", in many cases without any apparent logic.
When talking about directions or streets with "r" in them, Laotians pronounce "r" as "l" ("plied lice" rather than "fried rice"). An example is Rue Setthathirat pronounced as "Lue Setthathilat".
Perhaps because they are shy about their English skills, it is difficult to get street directions from Laotians, even from people in police uniforms.
Maps covering the city are available at bookshops and some mini-marts, but are not as detailed and not always to scale. Many shopfronts feature addresses in Roman letters, and these are often the best way to determine the street one is walking. People navigate using landmarks, so name the nearest embassy, hotel or temple near where you want to go.
In the centre of Vientiane, the through roads Setthathirat Rd and Samsenthai Rd and the side roads connecting them and down to the river have sealed surfaces and pavements, and there is decent street lighting. A one-way traffic regime is in place (but the police are not enforcing it), and parking regulations have also been introduced.
Vientiane's rainwater drainage system, which also includes "grey water" from baths, sinks, laundries, etc., consists of gullies on the roadside, usually covered by concrete slabs. These slabs are sometimes damaged and very precariously balanced or even missing altogether. People rapidly learn to take care before stepping on anything that looks like a slab. Waste from toilets is, or should be, collected in septic tanks (at every house), but those gullies can nevertheless smell abominably. In the centre things have improved markedly as a result of the road upgrading. The smell from the gullies is now no longer very noticeable.
Do not rely exclusively on the Google Earth view of Vientiane for locating the sights: many locations put there by well-meaning users are clearly in the wrong place, not just a block or so away, but some even in a wrong part of the city.
Vientiane has a small fleet of genuine taxis retired from Bangkok, usually found lurking at the Friendship Bridge, the airport or in front of large hotels. Fares are set by bargaining, so figure on around US$0.50 per km or US$20-40 to hire one for the day, depending on car type and distance.
Tuk-tuks and their bigger cousins, jumbos, are ubiquitous in Vientiane. If chartering a tuk-tuk/jumbo, make sure of the fare in advance. Short hops within the city should not cost more than 10,000 kip per person. In most cases, foreigners will find it difficult to get bargain prices. All the tuk-tuk drivers carry a fare card for popular destinations but these fares are ridiculously inflated. Do not pay these bogus, published fares. Walking away can make the fare drop quickly. Shared jumbos running on set routes, e.g., Lan Xang Rd to Pha That Luang, charge a fixed 10,000 kip. Tuk-tuks lined up at Mekong riverside restaurants or other busy areas will try to charge you 30,000-50,000 kip even for short trips. It's not worth trying to bargain as they won't go anywhere for a normal (10,000 kip) fare. Walk a few blocks and you get a much lower price.
Old Japanese buses and white minibuses connect the centre to the suburban districts, but they are not equipped with air-con and have no signage in English, although route numbers are usually posted on the front. The only bus likely to be of use to the casual visitor is the bus to/from the Friendship Bridge, which continues on to Buddha Park for a fixed fare of 5,000 kip. The shuttle bus to Wattay International Airport goes to international departures and is equipped with air-con and Wi-Fi (as of July 2018).
A three-day bus pass can be bought at the airport for 45,000 kip (2020).
Bicycles are perhaps the best way to get around the city. Most guesthouses and hotels can arrange bike rental for around 10,000 kip per day. (The cheapest is apparently Douang Deuane Hotel, 8,000 kip, though their bikes are not the best.) Although the city's flat terrain makes for good biking, one-way streets can be difficult to identify. You can usually choose to leave your passport, your driver's licence, about 1,000 baht, or a comparable amount of kip or dollars as a deposit. Test the bike a bit, including the brakes, before renting.
Despite the poor standard of local driving, cycling is fairly safe in the city because the traffic is quite slow. But take extra care when the roads are wet, because many are unsurfaced (even in the city centre), and they can be muddy and slippery. Innocent-looking puddles sometimes conceal deep potholes.
The city centre can be quite comfortably covered on foot, at least in the cool season. Pha That Luang, however, is 4 km away from the centre and thus a bit of a hike. Out of the city centre there are few footpaths so walking can be uncomfortable.
Crossing the street can be a nightmare. Traffic lights seem to be timed for cars only, leaving little or no time when the crosswalk is clear for pedestrians. Markings for pedestrian crossings are quite faded and the local drivers have always regarded them as decoration anyway. The crosswalk buttons and walk signals seem to be little more than decoration as well, and cars often run red lights. The only blessing is that the traffic usually moves slowly and there often isn't much of it.
In Laos there are many car rental companies. If you are looking for a Western level of service, try Europcar (Asia Vehicle Rental), on Samsenthai Rd, 5 minutes from Namphu Fountain.
Vientiane is best viewed as a comfortable transit point for other places in Laos, or as a recuperative stop on the way out. It's a pleasant enough place, but generally, there is little reason to spend more than a couple of days here.
COPE Visitor Centre (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise), 17.96127°, 102.61789°. 09:00-18:00. This centre explores the Lao legacy of unexploded ordnance (UXO) and the National Rehabilitation Centre's efforts to expand prosthetic, orthotic, and rehabilitation services across the country. There are exhibits, and visitors can watch short films on the subject. Exhibits are appropriate for all ages. An excellent gift shop offers fun, offbeat souvenirs that support a good cause. Free parking. Free
Kaysone Phomvihane Museum, Muang Saythani (km6 Dongdok Rd), 18.0065°, 102.6450°. Tu-Su 08:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00. A quiet museum celebrating Laotian war hero and prime minister Kaysone Phomvihane. Exhibits on the history of Laos from ancient times to the present, but the main focus is on the life of Kaysone Phomvihane. The exhibits are presented in rough chronological order, but somewhat disjointedly without a sense of narrative, so they're hard to follow if you're not already familiar with the broad strokes. Interesting for history buffs, though. 5,000 kip 2020-02-16
Lao National Museum (Lao Revolutionary Museum ພິພິຕະພັນແຫ່ງຊາດ). As of Feb 2020 the museum has been renovated and is due to open soon but is still closed. Visitors can however take photos of the impressive architecture of the new museum from the outside. Formerly the Lao Revolutionary Museum. 2020-02-16
Patuxai (Victory Gate), Ave Lane Xang, 17.971482°, 102.618468°. 08:00-17:00. A local rendition of the Arc de Triomphe. Besides having elaborate Buddhist embellishment, it differs from the original in having four gates instead of two and being just a bit higher to spite the French. Reasonably impressive from afar, a surprisingly frank English sign inside the monument labels it a "monster of concrete" when seen up close. The concrete was donated by the US, although it was supposed to go towards a new airport instead: hence the nickname "the Vertical Runway". The monument itself aside, the palm tree-lined park around it complete with fountains is quite pleasant though lacking of shade during the daytime. You can climb up to the 7th story, stairs only, for a nice view of central Vientiane and three levels of souvenir shops with less than enthusiastic sales people sitting about. It features a musical fountain nearby that attracts visitors from around Laos and Asia, as well as a World Peace Gong presented by Indonesia. Roving cameramen will be happy to charge you for photos near these attractions. 3,000 kip (to climb)
President Souphanouvong Memorial, Kaysone Phomvihane Rd, Ban Phonsa-art, 19.8813°, 102.1369°, +856 20 55 821 230. Tu-Su 08:30-16:00. 5,000 kip
Presidential Palace, 17.9623°, 102.6100°.
Lao Cultural Hall, Rue Setthathilath, 17.96614°, 102.60658°.
Lao Textile Museum, No 151/11 Ban Nongtha-tai, Chanthabouly District (a bit of a walk from the nearest bus stop; alternatively you can take a taxi/tuk-tuk/Loca - a Loca from downtown should cost about 50,000 kip), 18.000791°, 102.616875°, +85621 213 467, laotextilemuseum@gmail.com. 09:00-16:00 daily. A beautiful semi-open-air museum of Lao textiles, clothing, weaving, and dyeing. Watch weavers at work, see samples of traditional Lao clothing, view the process of making indigo and samples of dyed thread, and taste color-changing butterfly-pea flower tea and fresh fruit from the courtyard (included in the ticket price). The gift shop has a lovely selection of silk, cotton, and mulberry paper products. 30,000 kip 2020-02-15
There are many more temples all over the town, but if you are out to admire temples Luang Prabang is the place to go, not Vientiane.
Some temples (indicated below) charge an entry fee 5,000 kip and are open 08:00-16:00, with a 12:00-13:00 lunch break. The monks at places that don’t charge a fee are grateful for a small donation.
Chinese Temple, Quai Fa Ngum (Two blocks from Wat Xieng Nyeun), 17.9628°, 102.6052°.
Black Stupa (That Dam), 17.966°, 102.611°. The mythical abode of a seven-headed dragon that protects Vientiane. It was renovated in 1995, but still has an attractive patina of age, and is slowly being overgrown again by lush grass vegetation. Take care as there have been dog attacks at night.
Hophakaew Museum (Ho Phra Keo), Setthathirat Rd (Opposite Wat Si Saket), 17.9617°, 102.6115°. A stunning, elegant, and majestic structure, King Setthathirat's former royal temple, which housed the magical Emerald Buddha (pha kaew) after it was taken from Lanna (Chiang Mai). The Siamese took it back in 1779, and is now housed in Bangkok's Wat Phra Kaew. Later the Thais returned in 1828 to raze the temple. The present structure is a 1942 reconstruction of dubious provenance. Today, the temple no longer operates and the interior has been turned into a small jumbled museum housing Buddha images. Look for the beautiful tall, lithe, long-armed Buddha in the hands-down "calling for rain" pose. 10,000 kip
Inpeng Temple (Wat Inpeng), 17.9665°, 102.6025°.
Pha That Luang, 17.97667°, 102.63644°. Daily 08:00-17:00. The national symbol and most important religious monument of the country, That Luang is a three-layered gilded stupa. The current version dates from 1566, although it has been ransacked and renovated numerous times since then. Accessing the inner courtyard gives you a slightly closer view of the stupa, and lots of Buddha statues. Vientiane's most important festival, Bun That Luang, is held here in Nov on the night of the full moon. There are two temples beside That Luang: Wat That Luang Neua (north) and Wat That Luang Tai (south), which are being renovated. 10,000 kip 2020-02-22
Wat Chan (Vat Chantha), Quai Fa Ngum (ຖະໜົນເຈົ້າຟ້າງຸ່ມ), 17.9640°, 102.6030°.
Wats Onteu, Inpeng, Mixay & Haisok, Rue Setthathilath (along Setthatirat Rd in the town centre), 17.9663°, 102.6047°. Given their location, the temples most likely to be visited by tourists.
Wat Xieng Ngeun, Xieng Nyeun, 17.9631°, 102.6064°.
Wat Si Muang, 17.9579°, 102.617°, +856 20 99 690 409. Disney-esque and gaudy in set-up, one would not think that it's a religious compound. Despite its small size, the temple is very active. Followers believe that lifting the small Buddha statue 3 times from its cushion means that your prayers or questions will be answered. The city pillar is being housed in a pagoda-like structure now being constructed separately on another block northwest across the street. Free
Wat Si Saket (Sisaket Museum), Lan Xang Avenue (ຖະໜົນລ້ານຊ້າງ) (corner of Lane Xang Rd and Setthathirat Rd), 17.9631°, 102.6114°. With very contemplative ambience, probably the oldest standing temple in Vientiane and among the most atmospheric. Built in 1818 by Chao Anou in the Bangkok-style and hence left unsacked when much of Vientiane was razed in a Siamese raid in 1828. Within the cloister walls are hundreds of niches housing Buddha images large and small, made of wood, stone, silver and bronze. In the centre of the courtyard is a five-tier-roofed sim (ordination hall) housing yet more Buddha niches and beautiful, but fading murals of the Buddha's past lives. 5,000 kip
ATMs are plentiful, but often cause problems such as out of cash or "eaten card" and sometimes do not accept the major international credit and debit card networks. In addition, most have withdrawal limits of 700,000-2,000,000 kip and charge additional fees. For preventing such trouble, tourists should withdraw money only at ATMs at bank branches.
Chinese Market, 17.9761°, 102.5974°.
Evening Market, ວຽງຈັນ (off Asean Rd), 17.97349°, 102.60022°.
Home Ideal, Samsenthai Rd (a 2-minute walk on the next street over from Phongsavanh Bank), 17.96775°, 102.60393°. A Chinese-owned shop, offering good foreign exchange rates. Large one-stop shop for assorted products from stationery to housewares, clothing to luggage. Prices are fixed and reasonable.
Morning Market (Talat Sao), 17.9648°, 102.6146°. 09:00-16:00. A large collection of indoor stalls selling, well, pretty much anything. There are two floors: the first floor sells mostly textiles, electronics (watch out as nearly all of them are counterfeit), and watches. The second floor has clothing, gold and jewellery. Depending on the product, you should negotiate. Discounts can vary from 10% to 33%.
Talat Sao Mall, Lan Xang Avenue (ຖະໜົນລ້ານຊ້າງ), 17.9652°, 102.6144°. Has 3 floors and is the first public building in Vientiane with indoor parking. On weekends folks from the countryside come and marvel at the escalators (which, in one local magazine article, were referred to in English as "electricity ladders"), and at the bravery of those who venture onto them. The mall boasts a few cafés and a Thai-style food court. The front side of the market has space for parking. The toilets are not far from the entrance and can be used for a very small fee. Many vendors are Thais so they expect you to pay in baht, despite the signs urging you to pay in kip, and they also expect you to be typical dumb tourists who'll pay any price and still think it's a bargain. Souvenir tee-shirts, three for 200 baht. Brand-name products are often fake. 2021-10-26
Khua Din Market, 17.964423°, 102.616134°. Local market. Mostly sells clothes and fabric, especially traditional Lao clothes, but there's an array of food and other products too. The entrances can be hard to spot, but when you go in it's huge. 2020-02-15
Most supermarkets offer groceries from Europe, wines from all over the world (thanks to the low taxation in Laos these are astonishingly low-priced considering the distances involved); dairy products from Laos itself and Thailand (milk, yoghurt), butter and cheese from Europe and New Zealand, and everything else one may need.
Banneton Café. Croissants and pastries, simple lunches and excellent baguettes. Tasty, not just something to chew. Their coffee is among the best in Vientiane, on a par with that at JoMa.
Benoni Cafe. 10:00-17:00. Offers a wide range of reasonably priced Asian and European dishes. The owners are Lao, but speak fluent English, French and German. Daily specials and home roasted coffee beans, the basis for one of the best coffees in town. Busy at lunchtime, discounts after 14:00.
Chokdee Café Restaurant & Belgian Beer Bar (Tintin Bar), Quai Fa Gnum (Right by "Chinese Temple"), 17.963069°, 102.605833°, +856-21-26-38-47. 10:00-23:30. Restaurant & beer bar, owned by a friendly Belgian citizen who speaks a good English and so does the staff. Their signature meal, which is the Belgium national one, is mussels & fries, with different flavors to choose from, starting at 95,000 kip (US$11). Some finger food such as mini cheese burgers (35,000 kip). Famous for its beers too, including trappist ones, with around 100 different crafted bottled beers to choose from, plus a dozen on tap. As Belgium is also famous for its comic books, the place is decorated accordingly, with statues & paintings of Tintin and alikes... cosy atmosphere. 2018-03-28
Dai Japanese restaurant, Setthatirath road, 17.965794°, 102.604810°, +856-21-255-266, izakayadai@hotmail.com. M-Sa 11:00-14:00 & 17:00-22:30; Su 17:00-22:30. Japanese restaurant with a Japanese owner and chef, Takashi, who is friendly and speaks an excellent English. Very large selection (sushi, sashimi, miso soup, gyoza, tempura, teriyaki, soba, udon, ramen, curry, taiyaki) and drinks (Asashi beers, sake, potato schochu, rice shochu, shochu sour [which can be confused with fruit juice — watch out if you don't drink alcohol]). Japanese TV on to feel even more like home for Japanese people. 2018-03-23
Dinner Cruises. Two different companies, on boats moored opposite Wat Chan and one 300 m upriver. Not very impressive, neither the boat trip (1 hour, departure around 19:00, 1 km upstream then 2 downstream and back, only when the water level is high enough) nor the food. Very relaxing. This Lao maritime experience will cost you only slightly more than the same meal in one of the beer gardens on the riverbank.
Full Moon Café. Nice interior with comfortable seating arrangements and relaxed atmosphere. Asian/European fusion cuisine. Friendly but unfocused staff and reasonable prices. Manager named Khamfanh speaks good English and can help with orders or information about Laos. Free book exchange. Free Wi-Fi.
Khao Nieow. Meat offered at two levels of quality: Lao beef at around US$4-5; New Zealand lamb and beef at about US$8 and above. To be tried on a cool evening, the fondue bourguignon at US$26 for two, a surprise in a place whose name means "sticky rice". Excellent cheese fondue at US$28 for two. Not something for the hottest months of the year, but nice around year's end when temperatures drop. Set three-course meals at US$4.50
Kong View Bar and Restaurant, 183 Luang Prabang Rd (Riverside), 17.96769°, 102.58048°. With the ongoing construction of the flood management levee and river park in Vientiane, this restaurant offers the most optimal dining views of the Mekong. Thai-owned, it features an extensive menu of what is best termed Thai-Lao fusion. Not incredibly exciting food, but good, although portions are on the small side. Also, the staff will invariably mess up your order. Keep a close eye on the bill, as well, as items tend to make it on there that you didn't order.
Kop Kap. Closed Sunday. Thai food. A favourite among expats living nearby. Packed at lunch, the restaurant is known for its excellent Penang curry.
Kualao, 17.964784°, 102.610572°, +856 21 214813, reservation@kualaorestaurant.com. 11:00-14:00 and 18:00-22:00 daily. Upscale restaurant in a historic colonial building serving authentic Lao food with a good selection of vegetarian dishes. Traditional Lao music and dance performances in the evening. Expensive by Lao standards with main dishes from US$6-12 and set meals at US$15 2020-02-24
Moon the Night Restaurant, QQuai Fa Ngum, 17.96709°, 102.58903°. A very pleasant spot to eat excellent Lao food. A large place, an extensive menu, competent and friendly service. Background music not too loud. A meal of 6 to 8 dishes for 4 people costs US$15-20 including drinks
Phonethip Coca Suki Restaurant. Part of a chain that also has restaurants in Thailand and Indonesia. Good Lao, Thai, Chinese, and Western food. Reasonable prices and good, attentive service. Very popular at lunchtime with office workers and students.
Sticky Fingers. High quality Western-style food at reasonable prices. They have won a national award for their grasshopper/cricket tacos. Also offer a wide selection of vegetarian options. There's happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights, with half price cocktails. Open for breakfast and lunch on weekends only. Free Wi-Fi. Hangout for expats and NGO volunteers.
Swedish Pizza & Baking House, +856 21 5705. 07:00-21:00. Huge selection of excellent pizzas for around 45,000 kip. The mocha shakes are particularly tasty. Also has a wide variety of fresh baked breads, pastries and cakes.
La Terrasse. Closed Sundays. Popular with expats and tourists. It is one of the best French restaurants in Vientiane. Very good pizzas and excellent tender steaks for around US$5). Set three-course lunch is US$5.50, main dishes up to US$10.
Via Via. Excellent wood-fired Italian style pizza and homemade pastas priced from US$4. Good selection of Belgian beers.
Osaka, Nokeokoummane street, 17.964507°, 102.605493°, +856-21-213-352. 08:00-20:00. Japanese restaurant. Well located. Incredibility large offer of Japanese food (sushi, sashimi, miso soup, gyoza, tempura, teriyaki, soba, udon, ramen, oden, curry, takoyaki, okonomiyaki, tempura ice-cream) and drinks (green tea, cream soda, sake, Asashi beers, plum wine, shōchū ...) Every item on the menu comes written in English, along with its picture (& price). Many item pictures can as well be seen, with a colored A4 page for each, on the walls. All of this making it so easy to know what's on offer, and order with confidence. Owned & managed by a friendly Japanese citizen and his Lao wife, who live in the premises with their teenage kids. Quiet, clean, air conditioned. 2018-03-25
Xang Khoo, Pangkham road (Right between Namphoo fountain & Lao Plaza Hotel), 17.965061°, 102.608270°, +856-20-59-59-82-90, arnaudlao@icloud.com. 08:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Crêperie - Lao French Bistrot. Owned by a friendly French citizen who speaks great English. Staff can as well communicate in English. Mix of Western (mainly French) food with Asian (mainly Lao). Galettes (French buckwheat pancakes) are their signature food and are gluten free (starting at 45,000 kip; they also have pizza, salads, soups. Different deserts such as crepes indeed. Drinks: French wine (for 30,000 kip), beer, tea, coffee. In addition, "Menu of the day" offers everyday a different meal that's not on the main menu, coming along a salad and as well a desert or coffee; 45,000 kip. Every item on the menu can be ordered any time during the opening hours. 2 rooms including one with terrace. Relax atmosphere with jazz music in the background. 2018-03-26
Papillon, François N'gin (Right by Mixay Temple), 17.964187°, 102.604157°, +856-21-55415921, julienbinard38@hotmail.fr. 11:30-14:00, 18:00-22:00. French restaurant owned and managed by an experienced French cook, who used to be the Western French cook at Novotel. Speaks English, and so does his staff. Features traditional food and chef specials, such as andouillettes, rognons blancs (mutton testicles) and tripes à la mode de Caen. There's a 3-course "Menu of the day" in addition to the main menu, for 45,000-65,000 kip. Drinks include French wine. This is a good value. 2018-03-27
The massive influx of Chinese investment into Laos may be controversial, but one area in which it has had an undeniably positive impact is the vastly increased quality of Chinese restaurants in Vientiane. No reason anymore to settle for the ghastly Hong Kong Restaurant or uninspired banquet fare in the big hotels. Vientiane has a growing selection of authentic regional Chinese cuisine, particularly from the southwest.
Vientiane has a few bars and clubs, but there's no shortage of places for a quiet Beerlao. In particular, the Mekong shoreline has long been the epicentre of low-key nightlife, although a massive construction project to build a flood management levee system and a riverside park has seen most of the bamboo-and-thatch beer gardens here disappear.
There are many places to stay in Vientiane, but there are few budget accommodations. Most options are mid- to high-range and can go up to astronomic prices, which are impossible to pay in local currency, and exceed the yearly salaries of most Laotians.
Normally, just get into the town centre (for instance, Nam Phu Square) and start looking around along Setthathirat Rd and its side streets. You’ll find something within minutes except in "peak season" (Jan), when it will be really difficult to find a room. Book in advance.
High season is roughly Oct-Apr or May; low season, Jun-Sep.
Some places insist on an early nightly curfew and lock the front door without giving you a key. If you wish to enjoy the nightlife (what there is of it), make sure that you will be able to stay out and, more importantly, get in again. Often there will be a doorman who sleeps near the main entrance doors and can be woken up to get in, but it's wise to check the system they have in place for getting back in during the wee hours.
Budget: under 120,000 kip, mid-range: 120,000-400,000 kip, splurge: over 400,000 kip (standard double room).
Internet cafes are ubiquitous in Vientiane, particularly along Samsenthai Rd and the east end of Setthathirat Rd. The going rate is 100 kip per minute, usually charged in 10-minute increments. Charged by the hour from 5,000-6,000 kip. Many hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars etc. have free wifi but it's often quite slow.
Laos network SIM cards such as Unitel, can be bought at the airport, together with credit and data package if required. Data packages are about 15-20,000 kip for one day, 20-40,000 kip for seven days, 60-260,000 kip for 30 days (depending on how much data you want; prices as of 2020). Thai SIM cards will work here if you are near and have a clear view across the Mekong river to Thailand on the other side.
They can be vicious, whether they are strays or just owned by irresponsible people who don't bother closing their gates. You don't need to be out in the suburbs to be attacked. Avoid anything but well lighted, busy streets at night.
If you are bitten, see a doctor. Even if you have had a rabies vaccination before your trip you will still need a booster jab.
Vientiane's hospitals are a far cry from those in the West or even in Thailand. Mahosot and Setthathirat Hospitals can treat common conditions but for anything more serious you're better off heading to Thailand where there are good private hospitals with European- and US-trained doctors.
For emergency dental treatment it's also best to go to Thailand; in Vientiane's dental clinics, they seem to resort to tooth extractions a bit too easily.
Mahosot Hospital is on the river (go to their "International Clinic" where you pay more and get more personal service, but from the same doctors who work in the hospital itself). Setthathirat Hospital is away from city centre on the T4 Road.
Vientiane is free from malaria, but dengue is a real threat, especially during the rainy season. Take the necessary precautions against mosquito bites by wearing DEET repellent (20% at least), available to purchase at any minimart. It is common practice to request a mosquito coil at dusk at outdoor venues.
Taxi drivers will offer ladies as partners for single men as part of their all-out sales pitch. These drivers may be Thais (to a non-expert eye they look and sound the same) since they operate from unmarked vans and they always mistakenly quote prices in baht, not in kip, as if they were in Thailand.
Don't follow the example of the locals who will bathe in anything that looks like water. There is a real risk of picking up parasites. Swimming in public pools is okay. There is one-of-a-kind garden setting on Sok Paluang Rd, and another, not in such a nice setting, on the road by the stadium.
Hotel pools are also safe. Some hotels with pools that you can use for a fee if you are not staying there: Mercure, Lao Plaza, Don Chan Palace, Settha Palace, and there are more. Recommended: the Sunday brunch (11:00-15:00) in the Mercure at 130,000 kip (plus 10% service charge and 10% taxes) including use of pool and fitness centre.
The city's waterworks are called Nam PaPaa, which some may joke means "water without fishes". Yes, the fish have been removed but not much else. Don't drink the tap water, no matter how long it's been boiled (it tastes very industrial). Stick to bottled water, available everywhere, though some brands are better than others due to how different companies treat their water. Stick to common brands like Tiger Head.
Vientiane is a fairly safe city in terms of crime. However, bag snatching from guests sitting in front of cafes is becoming more common. Bags in the baskets of (rented) bicycles or mopeds, even when moving along, are also far from safe. Do not leave a bag in an accessible position. If your bag is snatched, immediately start shouting: the perpetrators rely on tourists reacting by silently trying to chase them without alerting the numerous police boxes.
Probably a bigger hazard than crime is the missing sewer covers on pavements. Additionally, there are many loose pavement stones that will tip if stepped on. Tread carefully and exercise extreme caution at night.
To prevent the development of a sex trade industry, so prevalent in neighbouring Thailand, Laotian law bans foreigners from having sexual relations with Laotian nationals other than their spouses. This law is enforced by the village chief and, given the fines, the incentive to enforce is high. The penalty is US$500 for the first offence, though as the text of the law is not available, the fine could be much more (the US Embassy says US$5,000); the foreign offender can face prison or deportation and the Lao woman prison. A Laotian prison is the last place anyone would want to be. If you take a girl to your room and she robs you, this law makes it almost impossible to obtain police assistance. Foreign women should note that, while rare, Laotian police enforce this law on both sexes. Bartenders are happy to provide stories of angry tourists confronting girls at the same bars they picked up the night before. Most hotels do not allow foreigners to take girls to their rooms as it is prohibited.
Homosexuality is legal and there is a fairly open gay scene in Vientiane. Since the Pathet Lao took over in 1975, the Lao government has been completely silent on LGBT rights and homosexuality. Female homosexuality is relatively frowned upon for Lao women while male homosexuality is widely tolerated. A growing acceptance of homosexuality in Laos continues. Some hotels will not allow a Lao national of the same sex into your room.
Illegal drugs are a problem throughout Laos and certainly so in Vientiane where even very young children can try to peddle "happy pills" to tourists. After declaring victory in the "war on opium" in 2005, it is not so much opium and heroin these days as methamphetamine that incurs the wrath of the authorities. Penalties are extremely harsh. Be extremely cautious of tuk-tuk drivers offering to sell you drugs, as they often collaborate with the police or police impersonators to "shake down" unsuspecting tourists.
As of 2006, the Lao PDR criminal code for drug trafficking or possession carries the following penalties:
Long trousers and sleeves are recommended when visiting a temple or official offices. Foreign women adopting the traditional long sarong (siin) are appreciated.
Consular Office, 15 Ban Ponesinuan, Bourichane Rd (near Lao-Singapore Business College), +856 21 453916, +856 21 415337. You can apply for visa from 08:30-11:30 and pick up your passport the next business day from 13:30-15:30. Visa fee is 800 baht for transit visitor, 1,000 baht for tourist visitor and 2,000 baht for non-immigrant (5,000 baht for multiple entries.) The visa fee must be paid in cash and in Thai baht only.
Primary administrative division