Aksaray

Aksaray is a city in Central Anatolia, 240 km southeast of Ankara and about 50 km west of Cappadocia. In 2021 the city had a population of 247,147, with another 68,000 living in the small towns and villages of Aksaray Province.

Aksaray is highly underrated—it is lively and authentic with barely any tourists, cheap accommodation and countless interesting sights around.

Understand

Cappadocia was a Persian kingdom from 331 BC to 17 AD and its last independent ruler Archelaus thought it would be neat if this town was named Archelaïs. He was unpopular with his subjects and ran out of money - the Romans invited him to Rome to discuss ways they could help, and when they'd done discussing, Archelaus was mysteriously dead. So the Romans took over the territory and renamed the town Colonia, just so everyone understood their status.

The town was on the Silk Road, the trading highway to Konya from the east of the country, and away over the far mountains from Persia. It came under the rule of the Seljuks from the 11th century, who adorned it with their distinctive architecture, building stout caravanserai to protect the travelling traders. The next brief dynasty was the Karamanids, then the Ottomans won it in 1470. By then the town had its present name of Aksaray meaning "white palace", of which no trace remains. Many residents relocated to Constantinople at that time, so there's a neighbourhood of Aksaray in present-day Istanbul.

Later trade was of salt (essential in the days before refrigeration) harvested from the great salt lake to the north. Aksaray today is an industrial town that you pass through on the road to Cappadocia but don't linger.

Get in

By bus

Otogarı, 38.3586°, 33.9839°. The main bus station is modern but has limited facilities. Take a dolmuş to get downtown—the fare may be included in your bus ticket, enquire when booking. 2023-03-31

Buses from Istanbul run every hour or so via Gebze and Ankara, taking 10 hours for a single fare in 2022 of 300 TL. (From Ankara takes 3 hr 30 min.) These buses continue via Konya and Isparta to Antalya, another 9 hours.

Buses from Izmir run every hour or two via Uşak, Afyon and Konya to Aksaray; from Konya takes 2 hours. They continue across Cappadocia via Nevşehir, Göreme and Avanos to Kayseri.

From Nevsehir bus station (west of town) a local minibus is no more than about €3 (50 TL as of May 2022). Larger bus companies will also take you along the ride, just don't pay more than for the minibus. Get of near the center of Aksaray, not at the bus station.

By road

By road from Istanbul head east past Ankara onto O-21 towards Adana. Exit at Acıkuyu onto D757 / D750 into town. D300 is the east-west highway Kayseri-Cappadocia-Aksaray-Konya. D750 south eventually rejoins O-21.

By train

There is no railway service to Aksaray. YHT fast trains run from Istanbul to Ankara and Konya.

Get around

It would make sense to rent a car (check Google Maps and ratings), but as soon as you are out of the city hitchhiking is also possible. So, it can be a good idea to rely on buses and your thumb if you are not in too much of a hurry.

Eski Garaj, 38.3685°, 34.0286°. The former bus station on Atatürk Blv in town centre. Dolmuş routes radiate from here. 2023-03-31

See

Grand Mosque (Ulu Camii), 717th Sk. It's also known as Karamanoğlu Mehmed Bey Mosque, as it was built in 1408 during the Karaman reign. The detached minaret was added in 1925. Free 2022-11-29
Governor's Office and other handsome early Republican buildings are in the square 200 m southwest of Grand Mosque. The street on the square's north flank is optimistically called Turizm Cd.
Zinciriye Medrese, Belediye Cd 28. M-Sa 09:00-17:00. This was built in 1336 and has a fine facade. Enter from the east via the elaborate Crown Gate. In the 19th century it became a jail then a museum and is now a library and cultural centre. Zinciriye Mosque is 200 m north. Free 2022-11-29
Kılıçaslan Hamams – 12th century bath houses on the riverbank opposite Red Minaret Mosque. In modern times they became garbage dumps but are under restoration.
Red Leaning Mosque Minaret (Eğri Minare Camii), Nevşehir Cd 2. The Red Mosque and minaret date from 1306, the Seljuk era. The red-brick minaret 'leans (hence_Eğri) at an angle of just over 3°_, with its upper section collared by steel braces. It looks more like an old factory chimney in Salford than the leaning tower of Pisa (tilt 4°), but you can't blame the tourist office for trying. The tilt probably reflects subsidence shortly after construction and appears stable. Free 2022-11-29
Bridges. Walking from the leaning minaret down the river, you will see many beautiful bridges that get illuminate during the night. 2023-03-31
Yusuf Hakiki Baba Complex, 38.3794°, 34.0331°. Includes the elegant tombs of Islamic saint Somuncu Baba (Sheyh Hamid-i Vali 1331–1412) and the scholar Cemaleddin (Şeyh Cemaleddin Aksarayî’ni, 12th century). There's also a mosque, library, display place and exhibition hall. 2023-03-31
Aksaray Museum, Konya Cd 16 (500 m east of Otogar next to Grand Çakıroğlu Hotel), +90 3822155636. Tu-Su 09:00-16:30. Small but informative museum of the area's history and prehistory. Free 2022-11-29
Science Museum (Aksaray Bilim Merkezi), Değirmen Sk (200 m north of main museum), +90 382 215 5636. Tu-F 09:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00=18:00. Child-friendly science museum. Free 2022-11-29

Further afield

Many more places are in close reach around Güzelyurt, like Ihlara valley.

Sultan Han. Daily 08:00-18:00. A caravanserai of 1229, one of the finest Seljuk structures. Astride a trade route, it's a sturdy little fort designed against banditry and thievery not major assault. A decorated marble gateway leads into the open-air summer courtyard, now lined by souvenir shops. The kiosk mosque in the middle has steps to keep the camels out. A second courtyard is covered for winter shelter. 2023-03-31
Ağzıkara Han. A richly-decorated caravanserai of 1230/40. Access has been closed for years. 2023-03-31
Tepesi Delik Han. It is nowadays a cafe, souvenir shop and filling station. Alay Han another 10 km east is derelict. 2023-03-31
Acemhöyük. An archaeological site with nothing for casual visitors to see. But look out for its artefacts in museums: the finest, the "Pratt Ivories", are now in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art but were probably looted. 2023-03-31
Çanlı Kilise (meaning "bell church"). It's the ruin of a 10th / 11th century Byzantine church, and the chief building of an ancient village cut into the mountainside. It looks like the village fell on hard times, as the houses were later subdivided, and abandoned in the 14th century. Approach by the road from Akhisar village, which crosses the hills into Ihlara Valley. 2023-03-31
Hasan Dağı. The twin-peaked dormant volcano looming southwest of town. The east summit is at 3,069 m and the west at 3,253 m—the prominence is only 1,000 m as it sits on the Anatolian plateau. It arose some 10 million years ago when the African tectonic plate collided with Eurasia: the last eruption was 3000 years ago but as the tectonic plates are still in motion, it's considered dormant not extinct. Access is from the north, along the unsealed road off D750 at Taşpınar through Gözlükuyu to Karkin. A track suitable for 4WD hairpins up from Karkin to the trailhead at Hotel Karbeyaz. The summit ascent is not technically difficult but be prepared for strong cold winds and snow underfoot. 2023-03-31
Tuz Gölü ((meaning "salt lake")). A name applied to dozens of saline lakes in Turkey but in season this is the largest, some 40 km north-south by 20 km east-west. In summer it dries up completely, leaving behind salt pans and a completely white, flat landscape–a salt desert in all but name. You can walk around or even harvest salt with your own hands. Known in ancient times as Tatta (Greek: ἡ Τάττα), it was a freshwater lake which at some point in prehistory had its outlets blocked and the climate became arid, so it evaporated and became hypersaline. In season, migratory birds throng its lagoons and salt pans. Thus, it's a good spot for birdwatching these birds on their route from Europe to Africa and vice versa during spring and autumn.<br/>It's best to visit in early summer when there's ankle-deep water to paddle into and view the dreamlike mirror-reflection of the sky and far shore. Access is from various points along D750 towards Ankara.<br/>The first area is the distinctly pink southeast pool, wherever you can find a track branching that side of the highway—never stop on busy D750. Maybe pass by the turnoff from the town of Şereflikoçhisar, as this track leads to commercial salt pans.<br/>Third 📍 is another 20 km further on the northeast shore, where a rash of souvenir kiosks tells you tourists are expected. Access is free, you can buy overpriced salt and soap but that's better bought in town and comes from the same place. Don't pay for cleaning your feet, just walk straight out to the bus parking, where you will find plenty of water for cleaning the buses. Don't forget to bring good shoes and sunglasses as the already powerful sunshine picks up extra strength from the saltpan. 2023-03-31

Do

Lunapark, 33rd Cd. (1 km west of town centre), 38.3693°, 34.01035°. Daily 14:00-00:00. A chain fairground. 2023-03-31
Ihlara valley – For hiking and rock-climbing near Güzelyurt.

Buy

Migros is the main supermarket, on Atatürk Blv opposite Eski Garaj. It's open daily 09:00-22:00.
Nora City is a shopping mall 200 m northeast of Migros on Atatürk Blv.
Lots of small neighbourhood stores, A101 is the main chain.

Eat

Künefeland, 38.36982°, 34.02133°, +90 3822136344. Daily 10:00-00:00. Just a 4.1 rating on Big Brother, but definitely worth a visit with sweet, delicious and affordable Künefe. 2022-05
Riverside along Ebulfeyz Elçibey Cd is the main eating strip. Choices include Sofra, Etci, Künefeland, Has Döner, Şehzade, Çiğerci Bahattin, Elçibey, Domino's Pizza, Omur Baba and Kardeşler.
Several more in the park upriver.

Drink

Mert Birahanesi is at Kalealtı Cd 58. Don't look for head-banging music in Teknobar just south, it's a construction company.
Many cafes and restaurants serve beer.

Sleep

Grand Altuntaş Hotel, Muhsin Yazıcıoğlu Blv 150 (5 km northeast off D300), 38.4019°, 34.0289°, +90 382 212 0808. Smart comfy hotel on the highway to Cappadocia. B&B double 1,500 TL 2022-11-29
Grand Çakıroğlu Hotel, 5719th Cd (block south of road to bus station), 38.3614°, 33.9962°, +90 382 217 1010. Clean modern hotel 3 km west of town, free parking. B&B double 800 TL 2022-11-29
Grand Saatçioğlu Otel, Turizm Cd (200 m southwest of Grand Mosque), +90 382 214 2020. Clean, comfy and central. B&B double 800 TL 2022-11-29
Melendiz Hotel (Ağaçlı), Recep Tayyip Erdoğan Blv (junction of D750 and D300), 38.3860°, 33.9939°, +90 382 215 2400. Modern hotel with spa at north edge of town, convenient for motorists. B&B double 1,000 TL 2022-11-29
Otel Ahsaray, Ebulfeyz Elçibey Cd 1, 38.3650°, 34.0081°, +90 382 216 1600. Smart clean hotel just off D750 junction. B&B double 1,000 TL 2022-11-29
Süvari Hotel, Taşpazar, 800, 68100 Aksaray, 38.3709442°, 34.0238421°, +90 3822155050. Comfortable and clean hotel with breakfast From €27 B&B 2022-05
Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.
Üç Yıldız Otel, Bankalar Cd 57 (northwest side of Grand Mosque), +90 382 214 0000. Üç Yıldız means "three stars" which is about right. Very central, good value for comfort and welcome. B&B double 800 TL 2022-11-29

Connect

Aksaray and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of Nov 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

Güzelyurt and Ihlara valley – 30 km southeast are the closest parts of strange Cappadocia scenery, a fantastic landscape of volcanic tufa and ancient religious sites.
Nevşehir, Göreme and Avanos – Cappadocia's main tourist bases.
Kayseri – Further east has an ancient citadel and old town.
Konya – Was the home of the Mevlani, the Sufi "whirling dervishes".
Ankara – North, is a sprawling modern city but with many sights of interest in its historic centre.

Aksaray - district and city in Aksaray province, Turkey