Cape Range National Park is in the coastal hills 50 km from Exmouth in the Gascoyne region of Western Australia. It is one of the main ways to access Ningaloo Marine Park.
Some 3 to 5 million years ago, this area of Australia lay under a shallow sea, and built up calcareous deposits – billions upon squillions of sea shells. Then it uplifted to form a limestone plateau, which became dissected by canyons, while underground down to the water table became riddled with caves. The high point on the plateau now stands at 314 m / 1030 ft, and the ridge forms a peninsula. Limestone continued to build offshore, creating Ningaloo Reef almost 300 km long. This was a major barrier to European exploration, let alone colonisation, so early arrivals hunted whales offshore but kept clear of the dangerous coast.
In the early 19th century Captain Phillip Parker King made a series of explorations around Australia, mapping, cataloguing minerals and wildlife, and repairing the ship after occasional lost battles with the reefs and rocks. In 1818 he named the North West Cape, which had been "Warnangura" to the Aboriginal Yinikutira people. You could just about manoevre a small vessel in at the places now called Maud's Landing and Exmouth, but there were better landings at Dampier further east. Tracts of land were gradually taken for cattle and sheep farming, and land conflict spelt the end of the Yinikutira.
Farming was little joy in this hot arid landscape and in the 1960s the leases were sold back to the government. Cape Range National Park was established in 1964 - referring to the range of hills forming the North West Cape, there isn't a promontory called "Cape Range". In 1987 some 260 km of the reef were designated as Ningaloo Marine Park, with the landward park being one of many places where it's easily accessible from shore.
Wildlife commonly seen on land includes white-bellied sea eagles, rock wallabies, emus, kangaroos and echidnas.
Offshore are turtles, octopus, sting rays, manta rays, whale sharks, tiger sharks and reef sharks. Plus corals, which of course are animals: true vegetation is as sparse underwater here as it is on the baking land.
Deep underground are weird troglodyte creatures that have evolved in the caves in isolation. Their survival depends upon keeping their habitat unsullied, so you'll only see them in displays in the Visitor Centre.
Climate is hot and dry almost all year round - a cool day means 30°C. Nov to April the temperature routinely exceeds 40°C and cyclone downpours are possible. There is no shade in the arid treeless scrub, and no fresh water supply. You need about 5 litres of water per person per day, which of course is heavy, and carrying it raises a thirst.
The only approach is by the 50 km coast road from Exmouth, which is the nearest place with public transport. Most visitors simply day-trip from there. There's no fuel in the park so think about the getting back.
The boat trips along Yardie Creek have a connecting minibus from Exmouth, see below.
Fees are standard for all of Western Australia's parks. In 2022 you pay $15 on entry per car with up to 12 occupants, and $8 for a motorbike. There's no fee to enter by bicycle or on foot. See below for camping charges: campers pay for their first park entry then can come and go throughout their booked stay.
Park passes are also available for 5 days ($25), 14 days ($40), 4 weeks ($60) or a year ($120).
The access road along the coast of the Cape is sealed and suitable for all vehicles including mobile homes. It's called Yardie Creek Road from the point it leaves Murat Road at the entrance to the Naval Comms Station. It continues good all the way through the park to Yardie Creek itself. The side roads to campgrounds and beaches are of variable quality: most are unsealed but suitable for 2WD in dry weather. But a few are rough, so take a careful look at the surface before venturing onto them.
Yardie Creek itself always has water, great for scenery and wildlife but bad news for vehicles. Only 4WD should attempt to cross the soft sand bar at its outlet to pick up the track continuing south. It's impassable at the highest tides or after wet weather when the creek is running high.
A couple of canyons on the east edge of the park are accessed by unsealed roads off the main highway towards Exmouth; 4WD is advised for these.
Check your rental agreement, which may restrict your use of unsealed roads.
There is a gift and souvenir shop at the visitors centre, open until 3:30PM daily. They hire snorkels and fins (which must be returned before closing time), but you're better buying your own. You need a good comfortable fit of mask, which can have corrective lenses if you wear specs - see Scuba diving.
Bring your own food. The gift shop at the Visitor Centre sells microwaved pies, sausage rolls and pasties.
Bring your own. The visitor centre has drinking water but it's unreasonable to refill a big container.
Ned's Bore a few kilometres north is natural untreated spring water. It's coming out of unpolluted limestone strata, bacteriologically low risk but its mineral content fails the spec for a human drinking supply. The park are therefore obliged to declare it unfit, else everyone could sue for their every subsequent ailment, though if it was frankly harmful the park would cap the spring and remove the tap. The wildlife will appreciate you drawing water here as they lap up the spills, and you don't see a heap of roos nearby writhing in their death-throes.
Fees are standard for all the park campgrounds. In 2022 you pay $11 per night adult, $7 concession, $3 child. You also pay the park entry fee once on arrival, but then can re-enter free during your booked stay. Capacity is limited, deliberately so, so booking is essential. The larger sites have toilets, and that's about all. Dogs are not permitted.
As of April 2022, there is no mobile signal within the park, except for a Telstra hotspot at the Discovery Centre. The road from Exmouth has patchy coverage from Telstra, which gives out at the park gate.
You have to return to Exmouth along the only road.
2nd-order administrative division
Primary administrative division