County Waterford (Contae Phort Láirge) is in Southeast Ireland, and historically part of Munster. It's mostly low-lying, but with mountains of 500-700 m along its border with County Tipperary to the north. Its main attractions are Waterford city (Ireland's oldest), the mansions and gardens dotted about the countryside, and the little harbours and beach resorts along its coast.
The tribal domains of southwest Ireland coalesced in the Iron Ages into the Kingdom of Munster. Especially in the low-lying terrain around Waterford, there were harbours and navigable rivers that brought outside influence - and not just from overseas. In an age when overland travel was quagmire-cum-nightmare, early missionaries such as St Declan and St Patrick came by sea, christianising the Déise - the local Celtic tribe - from the 5th century. The Vikings came to raid, but why grab a pig and rush back to sea when you could take permanent possession of this fertile land? So they settled all the way up the navigable River Suir, founding Veðrafjǫrðr - Waterford - in the 9th century. Their settlement 5 km further upriver may have been even more significant but there's nothing left there.
In medieval times the Normans increasingly controlled Ireland - and Waterford was easier to reach by sea from England than much of Great Britain. They divided the country into shires, which evolved into the present-day counties, though it would be another 700 years before the administrative focus shifted from weapon-takes and harsh justice to bin collections and library vans. Meanwhile a series of barons grew and became over-mighty, warring with each other and with London authority. The Desmond dynasty was troublesome into the reign of Queen Elizabeth, but was then beaten and their lands handed over to staunch Protestants. One beneficiary was soldier-of-fortune Sir Walter Raleigh, who became a major landowner around Lismore and Youghal. He in turn overstepped, to be deposed and executed once a Catholic monarch again ruled England. He sold off his estates to the Earl of Cork, whose son Robert Boyle the physicist and chemist was born at Lismore Castle.
Waterford grew into a large city with trade in Georgian and Victorian times, but was limited by its twisty narrow river channel - very difficult to navigate under sail, so Dunmore served as the port until steam-powered iron vessels were developed. The county remained agricultural, with little industry, though there was copper mining towards Dungarvan, and its glass-making (Waterford Crystal) lasted until 2009. That meant that agricultural slumps hit the area hard - the Great Famine of 1845-1849 being the worst of several. But for the wealthy few, it was an agreeable place for building grand mansion houses with the lucre they'd acquired elsewhere. Many of these stately homes and gardens can be visited: the IRA burned down as many as it could both before and after Irish independence, but some were re-built while others are picturesque ruins. Waterford also earned a special place in the history of travel in July 1985 when a 15-seater turboprop first juddered into its skies towards London Gatwick. It was a mere side-hustle for the aviation business of Tony Ryan (1936-2007), but it's now Ryanair.
Dublin (IATA: DUB) is usually the best airport to fly into, for its range of flights and good onward transport. You might also fly into Cork or Shannon and hire a car. Waterford Airport has no commercial flights.
Direct trains run from Dublin Heuston via Newbridge, Kildare, Athy, Carlow, Bagenalstown, Kilkenny and Thomastown to Waterford, taking 2 hr 15 min. There are seven M-Sa and four on Sunday.
Two trains run M-Sa from Limerick Junction (for Cork, Limerick and Dublin) via Tipperary, Cahir, Clonmel and Carrick-on-Suir to Waterford.
Expressway Bus 4 runs every hour or two from Dublin Airport, taking 3 hours to Waterford via Dublin Busáras and Heuston, Carlow and Thomastown.
Expressway Bus 55 runs daily every two hours from Limerick via Tipperary, Cahir, Clonmel and Carrick-on-Suir to Waterford.
Expressway Bus 40 runs hourly from Cork via Youghal and Dungarvan to Waterford, and continues to Wexford and Rosslare Harbour, for ferries to Wales and the Continent.
By road from Dublin, take M9 for Waterford and the east of the county. For Lismore, Ardmore and the west, you could take M8 to Cahir then the scenic road over the hills.
You need a car. Public transport is sparse even between the main towns, and non-existent in the countryside where many of the sights of interest are found.
See individual towns for Local Link bus services. They're generally too sparse for visitors, but a few are practical options, such as the Dungarvan-Ardmore bus.
Standard advice about road safety, protecting valuables, and dressing for the weather. On the water, never underestimate the power of the Atlantic.
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