Dublin - capital and largest city of Ireland

For other places with the same name, see Dublin (disambiguation).

Dublin (Irish: Baile Átha Cliath, "Town of the Hurdled Ford") is the capital city of Ireland. Its vibrancy, nightlife and tourist attractions are world renowned and it's the most popular entry point for international visitors to Ireland.

As a city, it is disproportionately large for the size of the country with a population of 1.9 million in the Greater Dublin Region (2011); nearly half of the Republic's population lives in this metropolitan area. The central sights can be navigated by foot, with a few outlying sights, and suburbs sprawling out for miles.

The climate is mild, making Dublin a year-round destination. It's seldom freezing in winter, cool in summer and frequently has light showers. For more information, see County Dublin weather chart.

Understand

History

Dublin is in a low-lying, fertile area, not boggy by Irish standards, and with good sea access. It became the core of the Gaelic kingdom of Leinster, and the Vikings established a large settlement by what is now Dublin castle, until ejected by Brian Boru at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014. This set a pattern that Dublin was fought for, not fought in. The Normans colonised the southwest and Leinster from the 12th century, and further out they battled with the Gaels, but Dublin sat snug within the "Pale" - the defensive palisade. Similarly with the Tudor conquests; then the city fell swiftly to Cromwell so his atrocities were elsewhere, and King William marched in unopposed after the Battle of the Boyne. 18th century Dublin was the second largest city in the British Isles, with a tight little Protestant clique ruling the place to London's liking. Industry and culture flourished, and the city acquired its graceful Georgian streets and squares, but Ireland was ruled as a colony. Britain's other colonies watched with great interest as the independence movement gathered pace.

"The Troubles" of the late 19th / early 20th century involved ethnic conflicts, paramilitary gangs, and savage reprisals by the authorities. The outbreak of the First World War seemed to put a brake on this, with tens of thousands of Irishmen marching away to France and Flanders. Surely one big push on the Somme would win this war - but while the generals were planning this, armed insurrection broke out at Easter 1916. The rebels seized the central Post Office on O'Connell Street, read their proclamation of independence, then were bombarded until they surrendered. Initially they attracted little sympathy or support, especially as they were backed by arch-foe Germany, but the authorities snatched defeat from a quick win by the subsequent court-martials and executions by firing squad. Hundreds were arrested and 15 were shot. This and atrocities such as the Croke Park massacre were fatal to the legitimacy of British rule. By 1921, the Irish tricolour fluttered over a Dublin that was capital of a separate state.

Orientation

Dublin is divided by the River Liffey. North of the Liffey runs O'Connell Street the main thoroughfare, intersected by numerous shopping streets such as Henry Street and Mary Street. On the south bank are Merrion Square, St Stephen's Green, Grafton Street (the main south-side shopping area), Trinity College, Christ Church and St Patrick's Cathedrals, the main branch of the National Museum, and many other attractions.

The postal district Dublin 1 is north of the river centred on the Post Office, Dublin 2 is south centred on Trinity College, and so on out to the burbs. These districts have all been incorporated into Eircodes, which cover the whole Republic. Thus D04 followed by four alphanumerics is somewhere around Ballsbridge. These pages state Eircodes wherever possible, as keying them into an online map will drop you onto the exact address. They only apply to addresses that receive mail so a lonely megalithic tomb on a mountainside won't have one, but that's seldom an issue in downtown Dublin.

There is a Dublin Visitor Centre northside at 1 Sackville Place 📍 opposite the Post Office, and another southside at 118 Grafton Street 📍 by Trinity College. They're both open daily 08:30-18:00. Several other places call themselves "tourist offices" but are just marketing their own tours.

Get in

By plane

Main article: Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport (IATA: DUB), 53.4273°, -6.2442°. Dublin Airport has an extensive short and medium haul network, and is the base for Aer Lingus, Aer Lingus Regional, and Ryanair. Terminal 2 can accommodate wide-bodied jets and is used by Aer Lingus (& Regional), American Airlines, Delta, Emirates, Norwegian and United. All others use the older Terminal 1, some 300 m north with a walkway between. Together they offer direct flights from most major cities in the UK (serving all London airports, but most frequently Heathrow) and Europe (including Keflavík, Moscow and Istanbul). North American flights arrive from New York, Newark, Boston, Chicago, Orlando, Philadelphia, San Francisco, Seattle and Washington (with pre-clearance of US customs & immigration before flying back on the return leg) and Toronto. Middle East flights include Dubai, Doha and Abu Dhabi. Domestic flights are from Kerry and Donegal; there are no flights from Belfast, Shannon or Cork. All the main car hire companies have kiosks in Arrivals - there's much better choice here than in the city centre, but book ahead for the best deals. The airport has car parking short-term on-site, long-term off-site, and "meet & greet" services. The currency kiosks are run by ICE with a 10% buy/sell rate, decent value. There are the Radisson Blu and Maldron hotels at the airport and a few more at the M1/M50 junction just south and in Swords to the north. 2022-03-05

Between airport and city: bus and taxi are the options, there's no rail / metro link. Some options below, however, find more details within the Dublin Airport page.

• Aircoach (the big blue bus) runs to the city centre and several of Dublin's major hotels, which are mostly south-side. Buses run from T1 then T2 every 15 mins, taking 30 mins, fare is around €7 single or €9 return. Aircoach also run to other cities, including Cork and Belfast. Taxi drivers routinely try to pick up passengers waiting at the Aircoach stop: they're forbidden to do so, but offer a similar rate and get many takers, so they persist.
• Local buses by Dublin Bus are much slower - allow an hour - but cheaper (typically €3.30) and may be more convenient for the suburbs. The two routes are:
  • Bus 16 via Drumcondra railway station, O'Connell St, Georges St and out to the southern suburbs of Rathmines and Ballanteer / Kingstown.
  • Bus 41 via Drumcondra railway station and O'Connell St, passing near Busáras, to Lower Abbey St. Northbound it runs out to Swords. Unlike bus 16, it operates night and day every 20-30 minutes.

The stops for the local buses are at Terminal 1 through the car park opposite Arrivals exit and then to the right. Pay with coins only (the ticket machines at the bus stop give change, but bus drivers don't). Luggage space is limited on the local buses, and it is not unknown for drivers to turn away travellers with packs that cannot be stored.

• A taxi to the city centre should cost around €20-30, so it will match the Aircoach if you are in a group of three or more. Taxis are legally obliged to provide an electronic receipt detailing the fare, distance and other pertinent details. Make sure to ask for a receipt as otherwise they often don't provide one.

Other destinations: many bus routes between Dublin and other Irish cities run via the airport, see individual cities' "Get in". Within County Dublin:

• Bus 101 runs every 20 min to Balrothery, Balbriggan and Drogheda. This bus runs from Dublin Talbot St via Drumcondra but is not available for journeys just between city, airport and Swords.
• Bus 102 runs from the airport every 30 min to Swords, Malahide, Portmarnock and Sutton near Howth.
• Drumcondra (Bus 16 & 41) has trains from Connolly towards Maynooth.
• Aircoach Bus 700 runs to Leopardstown and Sandyford, 702 to Bray and Greystones, and 703 to Dún Laoghaire, Dalkey and Killiney.

By train

The country's railways converge on the city. For more information, see Rail travel in Ireland.

• Heuston (Stáisiún Heuston), St Johns Rd West, Dublin 8 (2 km west of city centre, on LUAS tram red line), 53.34652°, -6.29274°. Ticket office 07:00-21:00. This serves all directions except the north or the east coast. Direct trains run from Cork (2 hr 30), Galway (2 hr 30), Westport (3 hr 30), Limerick Colbert (2 hr 15) and Waterford (2 hr). There are connections from Ballina, from Tralee and Killarney, from Clonmel and Tipperary, and from Nenagh. Heuston has toilets, ATM, small shops, kiosks and cafes, plus supermarkets on the streets nearby. To reach the centre take the tram. 2019-05-27
• Connolly (Stáisiún Uí Chonghaile), Amiens St, Dublin 1 (north-east city centre, 200 m north of main bus station, on LUAS tram red line), 53.35129°, -6.24963°. Ticket office 06:30-19:00. This serves the north plus the east coast. Direct trains run from Sligo (3 hr), Belfast via Drogheda (2 hrs), and Rosslare ferry port via Wexford (3 hr). From Derry change in Belfast. Connolly is also the hub for local DART trains. It has toilets, ATM and small shops, and Madigan's bar / restaurant. The surrounding area is tacky at night. 2019-05-07 Allow 45 mins if you need to transfer between Heuston and Connolly.

By bus

Busáras 📍 main bus station has Bus Eireann services from most towns in Ireland, such as Belfast (2 hr 30), Cork (4 hr), Limerick (3 hr 30), Galway (4 hr) and Donegal (2 hr 30), all running via the airport. Other operators are Kavanaghs to Limerick and Waterford, and Citylink and GoBus to Galway. Eurolines Bus 871 runs nightly to Dublin from London Victoria via Luton, Birmingham, Lymm motorway services (with National Express connections from Liverpool, Manchester, Bradford and Leeds) to Holyhead then by ferry to Dublin Port and Busáras. Luggage lockers are in the basement, along with the pay-to-enter public toilets.

Competitor companies don't use this station but leave from stops in the nearby streets. Busáras is just south of Connolly railway station and 300 m east of O'Connell Street.

By boat

Dublin Port 📍 has ferries from Holyhead in Wales (Stena and Irish Ferries, 3 hr 30 min), Bootle near Liverpool (P&O, 8 hrs) and Douglas, Isle of Man (Isle of Man Ferries, 3 hr 30 min). From Cherbourg in Normandy and Pembroke in Wales they nowadays only sail to Rosslare and not to Dublin.

The port is 2 km east of the centre; a link bus connects the port to Busáras. The former ferry port of Dún Laoghaire is no longer used. The M50 tunnel (toll), opened in 2006, means that motorists can disembark at Dublin and drive straight onto the motorway without getting snarled in city centre traffic.

Another ferry route is the short crossing from Cairnryan in Scotland to Belfast, then by road or rail to Dublin.

By car

If you're visiting Dublin just for a day trip, don't bring a car into the congested centre, as using a Park & Ride will be easier. From the south, use either Sandyford Luas stop, just off junction 15 of M50 on Blackthorn Rd, or Bray DART stop on Bray Rd. From the west, use Red Cow Luas stop, off junction 9 of M50. From the north east, use Howth DART station. Tariffs at Park & Ride stations are €2 - €4.

Get around

You can see much of the city on foot.

By public transport

Public transport in Dublin consists of trains, trams and buses. Unlike many other European capitals, the rail network in Dublin is quite limited, so buses are by far the main mode of public transport. Public transport is not run by a single agency, but by a number of state-contracted operators, and most information is provided separately on each operator's website. Trains are run by Irish Rail and trams by Luas, while most buses are run by Dublin Bus, except some local buses in suburban areas which are run by Go-Ahead Ireland.

Transport for Ireland (TFI) is the umbrella brand for public transport in Ireland, although its website primarily just directs you to the individual operators websites for information. However, the TFI Journey Planner is a good way to plan your journey across different modes, and the Live Departures provides real time information for all rail and bus stops. TFI also provides a number of smartphone apps including a journey planner and real time departures. Note that the journey planner app also provides real time departures, so you don't need to download both. The TFI Journey Planner and Live Departures are also integrated into Google Transit and are available within Google Maps.

Tickets and Leap Card

On trains and trams, tickets can be purchased from ticket vending machines at the station or stop prior to boarding. Train tickets are valid for the day of purchase and are needed to get through the entry and exit turnstiles at stations. Tram tickets do not have to be validated prior to boarding, but must be used within 90 minutes of purchase. On buses, you can pay the fare to the driver when boarding, however you must have the exact amount in coins. Notes cannot be taken, and if you overpay in coins, no change is given.

If you plan to use public transport a lot, consider getting a TFI Leap Card, which you can top up with credit and use to pay fares on all public transport in the city, at a 30% discount. Leap Cards can be purchased from most convenience shops at just €5 for adults and €3 for children (this is actually a deposit and if you register your card online, it can later be refunded to an EU bank account or a number of charities). You can check your credit and top up the card at most convenience shops, at train or tram ticket vending machines, and on your phone with the Leap Top-Up App.

To use your Leap Card on trains or trams, you need to tag-on by holding your card against the turnstile or validator before boarding, and then tag-off again at the turnstile or validator at the end of your journey. You will automatically be charged the relevant fare between the tag-on and tag-off locations. To use your Leap Card on buses, you need to place the card on the drivers machine, and tell the driver where you are going, and they will deduct the relevant fare. If you are making a longer journey, you can instead hold your card against the validator on the right hand side of the door where you will automatically be charged the highest fare. It's important to note that if you don't tag-on, you don't have a valid ticket, so you could be fined if a ticket inspector boards and checks your card.

Single fares are around 30% cheaper with a Leap Card than with cash. If you change between any buses, trams or trains within 90 minutes, then any subsequent fares will automatically be reduced by a further €1. The fares are also capped, so once you reach a certain amount within the same day or week (Monday to Sunday), you can continue to travel for free for the remainder of that day or week. For adults, the daily caps are €7 for buses or trams, €9.50 for trains and €10 for all modes. The weekly caps are €27.50 for buses or trams, €37 for trains and €40 for all modes. Child caps are much lower, about one third of the adult caps.

A special Leap Visitor Card is also available for tourists, which allows unlimited use of all public transport for 1 day (€10), 3 days (€19.50), or 7 days (€40), starting from the time of first use. This can be purchased at arrivals in Dublin Airport (WH Smith in Terminal 1 and Spar in Terminal 2) in some city centre tourist offices, or ordered online for delivery. Once your chosen time period expires, you can also top it up with additional time periods at most convenience shops in the city.

By train

Inter-city, commuter and DART trains use the same track, but vary in the stops they make. For timetables, route maps and fares, see Irish Rail.

• DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) is a suburban line along the coast, from Howth and Malahide in the north to Bray and Greystones in the south, via Connolly and other city centre stations, Dún Laoghaire and Dalkey. Trains run 06:00-23:00 and the core section between Howth Junction and Bray has trains M-F every 10 min and Sa Su every 30 min. North of Howth Junction, alternate trains either head for Malahide or for Howth. South of Bray, every third train extends to Greystones. Change at Bray for inter-city trains to Wicklow, Wexford and Rosslare.
• Commuter trains fan out to towns within an hour or so of the city.

• North from Connolly to Drogheda, along the coast via Portmarnock, Malahide, Donabate, Rush, Skerries and Balbriggan. They're hourly, daily, and rush-hour trains extend to Dundalk. Change at Drogheda for Newry and Belfast.
• West from Connolly to Maynooth via Drumcondra, Castleknock, Clonsilla and Leixlip. There's a branch line from Clonsilla to Dunboyne and M3 Parkway, which is the P&R for the Navan and Trim area. They're hourly, daily; change at Maynooth for Mullingar, Longford, Boyle and Sligo. Another branch line connects Grand Canal Dock with Connolly and Drumcondra.
• Southwest from Heuston to Portlaoise via Park West & Cherry Orchard, Clondalkin, Adamstown, Hazelhatch & Celbridge, Sallins (for Naas), Newbridge, Kildare, Monasterevin, and Portarlington. They're hourly M-Sa and every two hours on Sunday. The branch line from Grand Canal Dock also connects M-F via Connolly and Drumcondra, bypassing Heuston to join the route at Park West & Cherry Orchard as far as Hazelhatch & Celbridge.

Connolly and Heuston are the principal stations, see Get in. Others that visitors are likely to use are on the DART line south from Connolly:

• Tara Street just south of the river for Temple Bar and Trinity College
• Pearse for Merrion Square and the National Museums
• Grand Canal Dock for southside dockland and the start of the canal
• Lansdowne Road for the stadium
• Sandymount for Ballsbridge

Fares: The short hop zone covers all DART and commuter rail services as far as Balbriggan, Kilcock, Sallins and Kilcoole. As of 2021, a standard single is €2.25-€6.20 adult and €1.25-€2.55 child. Paying by TFI Leap Card it's €1.70-€4.90 adult and €0.80-€1.94 child. Day return, 1 day, 3 day, 7 day and monthly tickets are also available. A family all day ticket is €20, for up to 2 adults and 4 children; it's rail-only and doesn't include tram or bus. (See Rail travel in Ireland for other ticket deals, some of which are thoroughly bad value.) Your ticket is valid for any train so if you were at Bray waiting for the Dart service back to city centre, and the inter-city from Rosslare happened to pull in, you could hop aboard. Only don't be complaining when your preferred stop at Pearse goes by at a gallop then Tara Street at a canter before the train draws up at Connolly.

By tram

Luas, Irish for "speed", is Dublin's tram system, opened in 2004 and since extended. Trams are modern and reliable, and run frequently from 06:00 to midnight. There are two lines:

• Red line is east-west, from The Point in dockland and Connolly Station to Busáras, Abbey Street, Heuston Station, St James's Hospital, Red Cow P&R then either Tallaght P&R or Cheeverstown P&R and Saggart in the southwest of the city.
• Green line is north-south, from Broombridge to TU Dublin Grangegorman Campus, Marlborough St southbound / O'Connell St northbound, Trinity College, St Stephen's Green, Dundrum, P&Rs at Balally, Stillorgan and Sandyford, Leopardstown, Carrickmines P&R and Brides Glen in the southeast of the city.

The lines cross in north city centre, with a 100 m walk from the Abbey Street stop on the Red line to the Green lines north or south, a block apart at that point.

You must buy your ticket before boarding: there are machines by all the stops. Visitors are only likely to use the outer sections for the Park & Rides. For the city centre zone, eg between Heuston and Connolly, it's €2.10 adult standard and €1.54 by Leap Card. Day return, 1 day and 7 day tickets are also available.

By bus

City network

An extensive network of 150 bus routes serves most parts of the city and its surrounding suburbs. Most buses in the city centre pass through the O'Connell St area (including Mountjoy and Parnell Squares, Eden Quay and Fleet St) and the Trinity College area (including Pearse St, Nassau St, Dame St and College Green). Services vary from high frequency routes running every few minutes all day, to lower frequency routes running every hour or less, to peak-only limited-stop "Xpresso" routes and weekend-only late night "Nitelink" routes.

Confusingly, the bus network in Dublin is run by two separate companies, with timetables listed on two separate websites, and displayed at stops in two different formats. However, both companies share the same fare structure and Leap ticketing system, and all routes are included in the Transport for Ireland Journey Planner and Real Time apps:

• Dublin Bus operate all cross-city routes, and all routes which run to and from the city centre. The timetables displayed at stops refer to the time the bus leaves the terminus, not the time it will be passing that particular stop, so there is a bit of guesswork required.
• Go-Ahead Ireland operate local routes in the suburbs, as well as orbital routes which avoid the city centre. In contrast to Dublin Bus, all Go-Ahead Ireland timetables displayed at stops refer to the times buses are due to be passing that particular stop.

A schematic map of the core cross-city routes, as well as a map of the city centre stopping locations are available here. A detailed map of the entire city network, colour coded by frequency is available here (and for the far outer areas see here).

Cash fares within the city (exact amount in coins only) are €2.15-€3.80 adult and €1.00-€1.60 child, while if paying with a TFI Leap Card are €1.55-€3.00 adult and €0.80-€1.26 child. Those paying with a TFI Leap Card can also benefit from a €1 discount if interchanging within 90 minutes, and maximum daily and weekly caps. See Tickets and Leap Card.

At busier stops, an electronic sign lists the next 4 to 6 real-time departures. For all other stops, real-time departures can be checked online or in TFI apps (see By public transport above). All buses display their route number and destination on the front. When you see your bus approaching, hold out your hand to signal to the driver that you want to get on, otherwise they may not stop. If you have a prepaid TFI Leap Card, enter on the right-hand side and tag on by holding your card against the reader. Otherwise enter on the left-hand side to pay the driver.

Inside the bus, small screens display the next stop in both Irish and English, along with an audio announcement in both languages. When you see or hear your stop being announced, press one of the red buttons to signal to the driver that you want to get off.

Useful routes

The following routes are the most frequent cross-city routes, running every 8 to 12 minutes Monday to Friday, and every 10 to 15 minutes on Saturdays and Sundays:

• Route 4 operates from Harristown and Ballymun in the north to Ballsbridge and Blackrock in the southeast.
• Route 15 operates from Clongriffin and Artane in the northeast to Templeogue and Ballycullen in the southwest.
• Route 16 operates from Dublin Airport and Santry in the north to Rathfarnham and Ballinteer in the south.
• Route 27 operates from Clare Hall and Artane in the northeast to Walkinstown and Tallaght in the southwest.
• Route 39a operates from Ongar and Blanchardstown in the northwest to Baggot Street and University College Dublin in the southeast. This service operates 24 hours a day, with a bus every half an hour in the late/early hours of the morning.
• Route 40 operates from Charlestown and Finglas in the northwest to Ballyfermot and Liffey Valley in the west.
• Route 41 and Route 41c operate from Swords, Santry and Drumcondra in the north to Abbey Street in the city centre, with every second bus (route 41) serving Dublin Airport.
• Route 46a operates from the Phoenix Park in the inner northwest to University College Dublin, Stillorgan and Dún Laoghaire in the southeast.
• Route 130 operates from Abbey Street in the city centre to Clontarf, Bull Island and St. Annes Park in the east.
• Route 145 operates from Heuston Station in the inner west to University College Dublin, Stillorgan and Bray in the southeast.

While Dublin's bus network is primarily focused on cross-city routes and routes into the city centre, there are also a number of orbital routes which avoid the city centre. The most useful of these are:

• Route 17 operates around the south of the city, from Rialto via Terenure, Rathfarnham and University College Dublin to Blackrock, every 20 minutes Monday to Saturday and every 30 minutes on Sundays.
• Route 17a operates across the north of the city, from Blanchardstown via Finglas, Ballymun, Santry and Coolock to Kilbarrack, every 20 minutes Monday to Sunday.
• Route 18 operates across the inner south of the city, from Palmerstown via Ballyfermot, Kylemore, Crumlin, Rathmines, Ranelagh and Ballsbridge to Sandymount, every 20 minutes Monday to Sunday.
• Route 75 operates across the outer south of the city, from Tallaght via Rathfarnham, Ballinteer, Dundrum and Stillorgan to Dún Laoghaire, every 30 minutes Monday to Sunday.
• Route 76 across the west of the city, from Tallaght via Clondalkin, Liffey Valley and Ballyfermot to Chapelizod, every 20 minutes Monday to Sunday. A limited number of services extend to Blanchardstown (route 76a, Monday to Friday only).
• Route 175 operates across the south of the city, from Citywest via Tallaght, Ballinteer and Dundrum to University College Dublin, every 30 minutes Monday to Friday and every 60 minutes on Sundays.

Night services

On most routes, the last departures to and from the city centre are at 23:30 each night. However, a small number of routes operate a 24 hour service, 7 days a week, with departures every 30 minutes throughout the night in each direction:

• Route 15 is a cross-city route between Clongriffin in the northeast and Ballycullen in the southwest, via the Malahide Road, city centre, Rathmines and Templeogue.
• Route 39a is a cross-city route between Ongar in the northwest and University College Dublin in the southeast, via Blanchardstown, the Navan Road, city centre, Baggot Street and Donnybrook.
• Route 41 operates between Abbey Street in the city centre and Swords in the north, via Drumcondra, Santry and Dublin Airport.
• Routes C1/C2 operate services from Adamstown Station to Sandymount, running along the Chapelizod Bypass, Quays, and via Ballsbridge. The only difference between the two routes is they take slightly different routes through Lucan.
• Routes G1/G2 operate services from Spencer Dock to Red Cow Luas and Liffey Valley Shopping Centre respectively, both via Ballyfermot.
• Route N4 operates from the Point Village to Blanchardstown Shopping Centre, via DCU and Finglas.

Additionally, a night time only service applies on the following routes:

• Routes C5/C6 operate from Maynooth Station to Ringsend Road (via Leixlip and Celbrdige respectively), and both via Lucan and Chapelizod villages.

Normal daytime fares and tickets apply to the three 24 hour routes. On the Nitelink routes there is a higher cash fare of €3.00 and Leap fare of €2.40 (with half price fares for Young Adults and €1.30 cash or €1.00 leap for children). As with all routes, only the exact amount in coins is accepted on the bus. However, if you don't have the exact amount, you can also purchase a prepaid ticket for the same amount from Londis or Colemans on Westmoreland Street or from Spar on D'Olier Street.

On Friday and Saturday evenings, a network of 15 Nitelink routes provide late night departures from the city centre to most parts of the city. These depart from D'Olier Street, Westmoreland Street and Aston Quay between midnight and 4am, and only operate outwards from the city centre. A map of the Nitelink routes and timetables are available here.

By bike

Hiring a bicycle is a handy way to get around if you want to get outside the very centre of the city and are comfortable cycling in traffic. That being said, the city is not very bicycle-friendly, either in terms of quantity & quality of bike paths, pedestrians and drivers honouring the bike paths, road space available where there is no bike path (i.e. numerous narrow roads), or driver attitudes in general.

When cycling in the city centre, be aware that cycle lanes, where they exist, are generally shared with buses, taxis, motorcycles, and parked cars; cyclists should pay particular attention when approaching bus stops where a bus is pulling out. Motorbikes are not allowed to use the cycle lanes, but many still do so. Passing on the left is also allowed only in limited circumstances but is in fact still common. When cycling in Phoenix Park, while there is a dedicated cycle lane on both sides of the main thoroughfare unfortunately pedestrians also use these.

There are bikes to hire in several locations around the city centre with the Dublinbikes scheme. A 3-day pass (which is the only pass available to non-residents) costs €5 and gives you access to the bikes. They are free for the first 30min, up to 1h rentals cost €0.50 and up to 2 hours cost €1.50, so it is a good idea to return the bikes frequently. You can purchase the 3-day pass only at stations which accept credit cards, but once purchased you can use it to rent bikes at any station. Your credit card will be preauthorized with a security deposit of €150, which will be charged in case of theft or if the bike was not returned within 24 hours. Among others, there is a Dublinbikes bike hire place located at the entrance to the Phoenix Park, Dublin 8.

By car

Don't drive if you can realistically avoid it. For instance, if you plan to see Dublin before touring the country, take the bus in from the airport and return there a few days later to hire your car. For a day-trip, use the city edge Park & Rides. If you do venture in, you face traffic congestion (even on Sunday), difficulty parking, confusing one-ways or diversions for road repairs, traffic congestion, drunken revellers and phone-entranced jaywalkers veering into your path, ill-signed but rigidly enforced bus lanes, the silent onrush of trams, and traffic congestion, traffic, traffic . . .

On-street meter parking is in short supply and only for brief periods, and if you over-stay you're likely to be clamped or towed, for a penalty in excess of €100. For a visit say to a museum you need to seek out a multi-storey car park - plan ahead for those you might use. Check also what the deal is with your accommodation - a central place may not have its own parking.

Dublin's outer road is M50, which starts from the port downtown and tunnels beneath the north city (toll) to the airport perimeter, where M1 continues north towards Belfast while M50 arcs round the western city with access to all arterial routes. There's another toll between Junctions 6 (N3 Blanchardstown) and 7 (N4 Lucan). Tolls are about €3, but in rush hour the tunnel is €10. There are no cash booths, you must pay online either in advance or by 20:00 next day, else there's a penalty (to which your hire company and credit card will gleefully add). Hire cars may come with an e-tag.

The Outer Orbital Route, or M45, is a proposed bypass further out, arcing round from Drogheda to Navan, Enfield and Newbridge. The government keeps confirming this plan but nothing has happened; it would carve through important sites such as Hill of Tara. Meanwhile the same name is also used for the Outer and Inner orbital routes within the M50 semicircle. These are just existing streets interconnecting between the radial roads, confusingly signed and with much zigzagging.

By taxi

Fares are nationally regulated and taxis must use the meter. As of March 2021, city fares M-Sa 08:00 to 20:00 are €3.80 flagfall then €1.14-1.50 per km, 20:00 to 08:00 and Sunday €4.20 flagfall then €1.45-1.80 per km. In slow traffic or if asked to wait they charge by the minute, 40-50 cents.

There are many firms including Uber and the Bolt app, available on Android and iOS.

See

In summer, Dublin's top attractions can sell out. Buy tickets online in advance if you know you want to see something, especially for the Book of Kells where even early arrivals may find all the day's slots are filled.

The Dublin Pass gives you free and fast track entry to thirty-some attractions in Dublin. Adult prices in 2021 are €70 for one day, €86 for two, €99 for three, €109 for four and €115 for five, child prices about half, and days must run consecutively. You'll struggle to break even on this deal as only the Hop-on Hop-off bus tour and the Jameson Distillery and Guinness tours charge over €20; most are way cheaper and among their "free entry" attractions are many that don't charge anyhow. The Pass doesn't include the Library and Book of Kells at Trinity College, and it doesn't include any public transport.

North of the river

• General Post Office (GPO), O'Connell St Lower, Dublin 1, 53.34936°, -6.26053°, +353 1 705-7000. The GPO is the headquarters of the Post Office in Ireland, built in Neo-Classical style 1814-1818. In 1916 it was occupied by Irish rebels led by PH Pearse, who read the Proclamation of the Republic outside the front door of the building. The interior was burnt out by shelling from government forces against the rebels, but the exterior survived. Subsequently the GPO was restored, reopening in 1929, and remains a busy working post office. The GPO Witness History exhibit provides an in-depth multimedia exploration of the 1916 Easter Rising. ADULT €15, SENIOR CITIZEN (65+) €12, CHILD (6 to 13) €7.50, CHILD (14 to 18) €12, CHILDREN (5 and under) Free, FAMILY (2 adults + 2 children) €37, FAMILY (2 adults + 4 children) €43, GUIDED TOUR (ADULT) €17, GUIDED TOUR (SENIOR) €15 It formerly hosted An Post Museum: this closed in 2015 but you can view the collection online. 2019-05-05
• O'Connell Street is the broad thoroughfare running north from the river, and the main district for budget accommodation. It was smashed up in the 1916 uprising and subsequent civil war, but rebuilt; then in the 1970s the developers made one sorry mess of it. Plus their assistants: All along O'Connell Street the pieces flew, up went Nelson, and the pillar too . . . was the ditty commemorating the 1966 IRA bombing of Nelson's Column. Where it stood, next to the GPO, is now the 121 m pin of the Spire of Dublin; close by on North Earl St is the James Joyce Statue. Northbound trams glide up the street: go a block east for the southbound track. The city council are doing their best to further improve the place but it's a work in progress: pleasant enough by day, but tacky by night.
• St Mary's Pro-Cathedral, 83 Marlborough Place (one block east of O'Connell St), 53.350833°, -6.259167°. Dublin's Catholic cathedral, built in 1825. Catholicism was always the majority religion in Ireland, but its practice was forbidden until the 19th C. The official cathedral is Christ Church, so designated by the Pope in 1300, but taken over by the Protestants in the 16th C. When the laws relaxed, St Mary's was built in neo-Classical style as a temporary or "pro"-cathedral, until such time as the Pope decrees otherwise or the Protestants hand back Christ Church; neither event appears imminent. 2019-05-20
• At its north end at Parnell Square, O'Connell St takes a turn and becomes Frederick St. Here are the Rotunda Hospital, City Art Gallery, Writer's Museum and Garden of Remembrance.
• Dublin City Gallery - The Hugh Lane, Charlemont House, Parnell Square North D01 F2X9, 53.3543°, -6.2647°, +353 1 222 5550. Tu-Th 10:00-18:00, F Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 11:00-17:00. Sir Hugh Lane (1875-1915) was one of the first collectors of modern art. He died in the sinking of Lusitania and this public gallery reflects his Will, which involved about as much negotiation, fudge and compromise as the Treaty for Irish independence. The permanent exhibitions are mostly contemporary Irish artists, plus Francis Bacon's studio, relocated from London in 2001. Charlemont House was built in 1763 and in 1929 its gardens were built over to create the gallery. It was rebuilt and extended 2004-06 and is fully wheelchair accessible. Free 2021-10-15
• Dublin Writers Museum, 18 Parnell Sq North D01 T3V8 (next to Hugh Lane Gallery), NA°, NA°, +353 1 872 2077. M-Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 11:00-17:00. Located in an 18th-century house, the museum is dedicated to Irish literature and the lives of individuals such as Shaw, Joyce, Yeats and Pearse. There's a replica Book of Kells, and oddities such as Samuel Beckett's phone, opening night programmes for Oscar Wilde's plays and a first edition of Dracula; we're missing a few betting slips, stroppy notes from landladies and empty whiskey bottles. The Writers Centre based here put on cultural events. Adult €8, child €4.55 2021-10-15
• The Garden of Remembrance across the street from the gallery and museum commemorates those who died in the struggle for Irish independence. Open daily.
• The River Liffey is lined by stylish buildings, many of which have been renovated within living memory. Just upstream from O'Connell Bridge, the Ha'penny Bridge 📍 is the one on all the picture postcards and film locations, a 43 m cast-iron arch spanning the river between Liffey St Lower and Wellington Quay. Officially called the "Liffey Bridge" (Droichead na Life), it was built in 1816 to replace the cross-river ferries, with the right to charge a ha'penny toll for the next century. There were turnstiles at both ends, removed in 1919 after the toll ceased. The bridge was extensively repaired in 2001. Please don't clutter it up with "love-locks" - the last big clean-up removed 300 kg of these, and bear in mind that the 2001 repairs were by Harland and Wolff, who built the Titanic.
• Downstream from O'Connell Bridge the river broadens into dockland and the open sea, with poignant reminders of the Irish people's relationship with that sea.
• The Famine Memorial 📍 on Custom House Quay depicts victims of the Great Famine (an Gorta Mór) of 1845-49, when a million died and another million fled the country. Five gaunt figures totter to the docks with their bundles as if to take ship and leave. Or perhaps they hope for scraps from those ships, which during the famine years were briskly exporting food for profit, plenty to feed everyone yet unaffordable to most.
• EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum, CHQ, Custom House Quay (George’s Dock Stop Luas Red Line or Hop off/hop on buses stop outside), 53.348°, -6.248°, +353 1 906 0861. Daily 10:00-18:30 (last entry 17:00). Tells the story of why the Irish have made such an influence on the world. Over the centuries more than 10 million people emigrated from Ireland; here you can find out why they left, where they went and how they shaped the world. As you uncover the stories of our emigrants, you’ll realise that emigration is not about what people leave behind, but what they bring with them. Adult €17.50, Child 6-12 €8.50, Teen 13-17 €11.50, under 5s free, Senior 65+ €16.00 2022-11-21
• The Jeanie Johnston, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1 (downstream of Sean O'Casey Bridge), 53.34754°, -6.24548°, +353 01 473-0111, info@jeaniejohnston.ie. Tours (50 min) daily Apr-Oct 10:00-16:00, Nov-Mar 11:00-15:00. One million Irish people fled Ireland during the famine. 2,500 took a gruelling voyage onboard the Jeanie Johnston. This is a replica of ship Jeanie Johnston. Get an insight into life on board a Famine ship during your 50 minute tour. Listen to the stories of the people who made the gruelling voyage and as our expert guides about the great hunger, and the mass emigration it caused. Adult €13, Senior €11, Student €11, Teenagers €9.50, Children €7.50, Infant FREE 2022-11-21
• Samuel Beckett Bridge, 53.34691°, -6.24132°. Designed by Santiago Calatrava, this is a harp-shaped cable-stay road bridge of 120 m. It spans the river between North Wall Quay (in Docklands, north bank) and Sir John Rogerson's Quay (near Grand Canal Square, south bank) and the whole contraption hinges through 90 degrees to let ships pass. Daytime it's busy with traffic and is most scenic when floodlit at night. Calatrava also designed the James Joyce bridge upstream. 2019-05-20
• Green on Red Gallery, Park Lane, Spencer Dock, Dublin 1, 53.35°, -6.238°, +353 87 245 4282, info@greenonredgallery.com. W-F 10:00-17:30, Sa 11:00-15:00. Commercial gallery exhibiting Irish and international modern art. In 2020 they announced plans to re-locate but remain open on this site. Free 2021-10-15

South of the river

Most of Dublin's top sights are a short way south of the river, notably Trinity College, the National Museum archaeology collections, the National Gallery, and the elegant Georgian town through Merrion Square to St Stephen's Green.

• Trinity College, College Green, Dublin 2, 53.34391°, -6.25690°, +353 1 896-2320, bookofkells@tcd.ie. Kells: May-Sep: M-Sa 08:30-17:00, Su 09:30-17:00; Oct-Apr: M-Sa 09:30-17:00, Su 12:00-16:30. Trinity College is the fine Georgian campus of the University of Dublin. It's generally open to stroll around in daylight hours, but it is a working university, and most interiors are off-limits to tourists. You can visit the Chapel near the front (west) gate of the College. But the big attraction (ie mobbed) is the Old Library and Book of Kells. If you've not booked online, then first buy your ticket from the machines under the new (Lecky) library just south - this is for a timed slot, and on holiday weekends may be booked out. You enter an exhibition hall setting the Book in the context of other monastic writings of its period, circa 800 AD. Next, enter the display area: only two pages are displayed at any time, one being richly illustrated with little text (or no text, on the "carpet" pages), and one page being text of the Vulgate Gospels, written in Insular Majuscule Latin. But it's difficult to enjoy, with crowds jostling round the display case. Next, go upstairs into the massive Long Hall of the library, with books and ladders and more books and ladders towering away upwards. Last but not least, exit through the gift shop, which can be entered without a ticket. Adults €13 (€10 online off-peak), students & seniors €10, family €26, under 12 years free. Audio guides €5 2019-05-20
• Bank of Ireland opposite the College is worth a look while waiting for your appointment with Kells. It has a small display of early banknotes and memorabilia.
• Temple Bar is the district just west of the College along the riverside. It's wall-to-wall pubs and eating places, the cobbled streets are agreeable but there are no specific sights except Ha'penny Bridge until the Castle area, described in "West city". It's thronged with merry-makers, and by evening the hen parties and lads' outings are steaming, raucous and upchucking.
• Irish Whiskey Museum: and not before time. Irish distilleries have for too long pumped out bland commercial fare, though the country has all the ingredients (including the know-how) to produce whiskey of character to rival single-malt Scotch. The museum is next to the Dublin Visitor Centre at the gates of Trinity College. It's open daily Apr-Oct 10:00-18:00, Nov-Mar 10:30-18:00; the bar stays open Friday till 23:00 and Sa Su to 22:00. Standard tour (1 hour) costs €20.
• Molly Malone 📍 is the subject of a 19th century music-hall ballad, who pushed her wheelbarrow crying "cockles and mussels alive, alive-oh" before dying of a fever. She's entirely fictional, though Dublin had many such streethawkers, and she's not to be confused with Mary Mallon of Cookstown, the all-too-real "Typhoid Mary". Her kitsch statue dates to 1988 and was originally on nearby Grafton Street, but moved to its present spot in 2014 to make way for tram tracks. She's often mocked as "The Tart with the Cart" or "The Trollop with the Scallop" and her breasts (above an unhistorical low-cut dress) have been well polished by passing hands. Alas amidst these misogynist tropes and gropes, we forget the sad fate of the cockles and mussels themselves.
• National Gallery of Ireland, Merrion Square West & Clare St, Dublin 2, 53.34156°, -6.25245°, +353 1 661-5133, info@ngi.ie. Tu W F Sa 09:15-17:30, Th 09:15-20:30, Su M 11:00-17:30 advance booking required. Impressive national collection of Irish and European Art. In January the gallery is allowed to display its collection of watercolours by J.M.W. Turner, the original donor specified that they had to be kept out of the light for the rest of the year. Free 2021-11-20
• National Museum of Ireland - Archaeology & History, Kildare St, Dublin 2 (just north of St Stephen's Green), 53.34033°, -6.25492°, +353 1 677 7444, marketing@museum.ie. Tu-Sa 10:00-17:00, Su M 13:00-17:00. Excellent display of Ireland's artefacts from prehistory through the Viking era to independence. The standout is the Treasury (eg the 12th century Ardagh Chalice and 9th century Tara Brooch), and the prehistoric jewellery: gold and silver beautifully worked and carved - then chucked into the bog?? And likewise into the bog went bodies, presumably of defeated foes given the violence of their deaths. Normally when a body is buried, the flesh decays and a skeleton persists. But if you throw a body into a peat bog, the acid dissolves the bones while tannin preserves the hide. The person turns into a handbag. Free 2019-05-15
• Leinster House, Kildare Street, Dublin 2, NA°, NA°. Tours M and F 10:30 and 14:30. This opulent Georgian mansion is in the same block as the Archaeology Museum. Designed by Cassels, it was built in 1745 as the residence of the Duke of Leinster at a time when the southside was unfashionable. It proved an "anchor development" and Dublin's centre of power and culture soon gravitated from the northside. From 1922 it became the temporary base of the Oireachtas, the Irish bi-cameral parliament, and like the Ulster border it remains temporary a century later. You can visit by free guided tour (30 min), which takes in the Dáil and Seanad Chambers - be at the Kildare St entrance at least 15 min beforehand with passport or equivalent ID. Tours are suspended in 2021. Free 2021-10-15
• National Museum of Ireland - Natural History, Merrion Square, Dublin 2, 53.33977°, -6.25298°, +353 1 677 7444, marketing@museum.ie. Tu-Sa 10:00-17:00; Su M 13:00-17:00. The "Dead Zoo" contains a comprehensive zoological collection stored and maintained in a manner unchanged since its establishment in Victorian times. Free 2019-05-21
• Merrion Square, 53.33969°, -6.24917°. This large stately square is filled with grassy and shady areas and surrounded by Georgian red-brick houses. At the northwest corner is a life-sized statue of the writer and dramatist Oscar (draw breath) . . . Fingal O'Flahertie Wills Wilde (1854-1900), who grew up at No. 1 here. He's depicted sprawled on the embankment, with a lop-sided smirk, as if totally wasted. (As if! And him with the hollowest legs in London!) Two short marble columns are covered in his quotable quotes. On the surrounding buildings, plaques commemorate other notable residents, such as the Duke of Wellington. The fine architecture continues south, along Mount Street Upper and Fitzwilliam Street Lower. The neo-classical government buildings on Upper Merrion St can be visited by free guided tour Saturdays hourly 10:30-13:30, pick up tickets in the National Gallery lobby. 2019-07-15
• Number Twenty Nine (Georgian House Museum), 29 Fitzwilliam Street Lower (SE corner of Merrion Square), NA°, NA°. Georgian townhouse museum recreates the lifestyle of a historic middle-class family. It's closed for renovation at least until 2022 but you can tour online. 2021-10-15
• St Stephens Green, Dublin 2 (At the southern end of Grafton St), 53.33816°, -6.25914°. Pleasant Victorian public park. The Fusiliers' Arch was erected in 1907 to commemorate the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who fell in the Second Boer War (1899-1902). 2019-05-21
• Little Museum of Dublin, 15 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2, 53.33952°, -6.25842°, +353 1 661-1000. Daily 09:30-17:00. Housed in a Georgian townhouse on St. Stephen's Green, this displays the 20th C social, cultural and political history of Dublin city, with many artefacts donated by Dubliners. Visit by guided tour every 30-60 mins. Adult €10, conc €8 2019-05-21
• The Mansion House on Dawson Street (by the Little Museum) is the office of the Lord Mayor of Dublin. You can only get in to see it (eg the plush 1821 Round Room) for special events or on occasional open days.
• Iveagh Gardens are a block south of St Stephens Green: a hidden green space, as they're secluded by buildings.
• The Grand Canal marks the southern boundary of the inner city; the Royal Canal similarly loops across the northern city. Both were built in the 18th / 19th century to carry passengers and freight between Dublin and the Shannon and Atlantic. The Grand Canal took 47 years to construct: the expense of crossing the Bog of Allen replicated the prehistoric custom of sinking gold into bogs. And indeed Irish waterways go that far back, as the earliest dwellers could barely get about by land. The dockland visitor centre has closed but the Waterways Ireland website gives information eg on walks, navigability and fishing on this and the other canals.

West city

The original Dublin was in this area, at the confluence of the Liffey and the smaller Poddle (now culverted). Their peaty waters formed a dark pool, in Irish dubh linn.

• Dublin Castle, 2 Palace St, Dublin 2, 53.34286°, -6.26748°, +353 1 677 7129, info@dublincastle.ie. Daily M-Sa 10:00-17:15. Former seat of British rule in Ireland. The guided tour (hourly) takes in the medieval basements and Chapel Royal, then you see the State Apartments in your own time. You can skip the tour and just see the apartments for less. Guided tour €12, apartments alone €8 2019-05-20
• Chester Beatty Library, Dublin Castle, Dublin 2, NA°, NA°, +353 1 407 0750, info@cbl.ie. Mar-Oct M-F 10:00-17:00, Sa 11:00-17:00, Su 13:00-17:00; Nov-Feb closed M. Sir Alfred Chester Beatty (1875-1968) was an American mining magnate who amassed a fabulous collection of early books and manuscripts and oriental art. He moved to London and collaborated generously with the British Museum, but in 1950 there was a falling-out and he moved to Ireland. He established the library to avoid his collection being split up; it's now in the Clock Tower in the Castle gardens. Free 2019-05-20
• Christ Church Cathedral (Holy Trinity), Christ Church Pl, Dublin 2, 53.34343°, -6.27122°, +353 1 677 8099, email@cccdub.ie. Apr-Sept M-Sa 09:30-19:00, Su 12:30-14:30 & 16:30-19:00; Oct-Mar M-Sa 09:30-17:00, Su 12:30-14:30. Dating back to the 11th century, this is the oldest building in Dublin, though it underwent a massive restoration in the 19th. The oldest part is the large crypt, where amongst the items on display are a mummified cat and a rat, which got themselves stuck in the church organ in the 19th century. Adult €7, conc €5.50 2019-05-21
• Dublinia (Viking Museum), St Michael's Hill, Christchurch D02 V529 (Next to Christchurch Cathedral), +353 1 679 4611, info@dublinia.ie. Th-Su 10:00-17:30. Exhibition of life in the Viking settlement and medieval city, child-friendly. Adult €12, conc €11, child €7 (plus €7 combi with cathedral) 2021-10-15
• St Audoen's Church on Cornmarket near Christ Church is a 19th century neo-classical church built over 12th century remains. It's now the RC Polish Chaplaincy for Ireland.
• St Michan's Church on Church St north of Arran Quay was built in 1686 on Viking foundations. It has fine interior woodwork and an organ used by Handel. However the main draw was the mummified remains in the vaults: a 400-year old nun, a crusader, and the ancient Earls of Leitrim. In Feb 2019 these remains were vandalised so the vaults are closed for the forseeable future.
• National Museum of Ireland - Decorative Arts & History, Collins Barracks, Benburb St, Dublin 7 (north of river; Luas Red line tram to "Museum"), 53.34837°, -6.28582°, +353 1 677 7444, marketing@museum.ie. Tu-Sa 10:00-17:00, Su M 13:00-17:00. The building itself is remarkable, a great Georgian former barracks around a parade square. Displays decorative arts and artefacts over 400 years, from rustic houses through Georgian elegance to "Proclaiming a Republic", the events of Easter 1916 when the interior decor of the Post Office took a turn for the worse. Free 2019-05-15
• Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA), Royal Hospital, Military Road, Kilmainham D08 FW31, 53.34287°, -6.30061°, +353 1 612 9900, info@imma.ie. Tu-F 11:30-17:30, Sa 10:00-17:30, Su 12:00-17:30. Modern and contemporary art, housed in the Royal Hospital of 1684. See also the elegant courtyard and formal gardens. Free 2021-10-15
• Kilmainham Gaol, Inchicore Rd, Kilmainham, Dublin 8 (3.5 km west of centre, Bus 16 or 79 from Aston Quay or 13 or 40 from O'Connell St), 53.34168°, -6.30922°, +353 1 453 5984. Apr-Sep daily 09:30-18:00, Oct-Mar daily 09:30-17:30. This prison was in use 1796-1924; thousands have passed through, including many convicts transported to Australia. It's best known as the place where the rebels from the 1916 Easter Rising were executed. (Several now lie in Arbour Hill Cemetery just north of the Decorative Arts Museum.) Access by guided tour every 30 min, pre-booking essential. Adult €8, senior €4, child & student €4 2019-07-15
• Irish National War Memorial park and gardens are dedicated to the 49,500 Irish soldiers who died in the Great War. They're on the riverside just north of Kilmainham Gaol.
• Dublin Zoo, Zoo Rd D08 WF88 (Northeast section of Phoenix Park), 53.35326°, -6.30432°, +353 1 474 8900, info@dublinzoo.ie. Daily 09:30-17:30, last entry 15:30. Opened in 1830 and extended in 1997, this Zoo is the largest in Ireland. Adult €20, conc €15, child €14.50, less online 2021-10-15
• Phoenix Park, 53.3583°, -6.3303°, +353 1 677 0095, phoenixparkvisitorcentre@duchas.ie. The largest enclosed urban park in Europe, 2.5 km by 2 km. Includes Dublin Zoo, the residences of the President of Ireland and of the US Ambassador, the Cross commemorating the Pope's visit in 1979, a monument to the 1882 assassinations here, several sports fields, and a herd of fallow deer. Just beyond is Farmleigh mansion. But no phoenix, the name derives from Irish fionn uisce - "clear water". Free 2019-05-21
• The President's Residence (Áras an Uachtaráin) can be visited by free guided tour on Saturdays hourly 10:30-15:30. Pick up a ticket from the Phoenix Park visitor centre, no booking.
• Grangegorman Military Cemetery is a leafy, reflective space on the northeast flank of Phoenix Park, opposite the fish ponds.
• Farmleigh is an Edwardian mansion off White's Road at the west end of Phoenix Park. It's used to accommodate visiting VIPs but at other times can be seen by guided tour, daily 10:00-16:30, adult €8.
• Strawberry Beds 📍 is the bosky riverside neighbourhood west of Phoenix Park, which as the name implies was market gardens. It's a pleasant area to cycle or stroll, pubs include Anglers’ Rest, Strawberry Hall and Wren’s Nest.

South suburbs

• Ballsbridge is Dublin's embassy district and has Ireland's most expensive properties, especially along Shrewsbury Road and Ailesbury Road. The Royal Dublin Society is based here and promotes many cultural events. Get here on Bus 4 or 7, but it really ought to be an embassy limo.
• Donnybrook is separated from Ballsbridge by Herbert Park and is prosperous rather than opulent. It's best known for Donnybrook Fair, founded in 1204 and lasting until 1855 by which time it was a byword for drunkenness, fighting and hasty marriages. Yes, the bus will do for this area, the 46a.
• Ranelagh and Dartry are also worth a look- Ranelagh is small but affluent, reached by the Luas Green line and with several well-regarded eateries.
• Sandymount, a coastal suburb 3 km southeast of the centre, is an affluent area that was the birthplace of WB Yeats, and features prominently in James Joyce's Ulysses. There is a grand walk from Sandymount across the north end of its beach to the South Bull Wall which reaches a finger well out into the Bay.
• University College Dublin (UCD) 📍 is now a "city-within-a-city" on Belfield Campus.
• Rathfarnham Castle is originally Elizabethan, but was prettified in the 18th century. Open May-Sept daily, Oct-Apr W-Su.
• Pearse Museum is in St Enda's Park, Rathfarnham, Dublin 16. Patrick Pearse lived here 1910-16.

North suburbs

• Drumcondra is a relatively affluent Victorian suburb along the valley of the River Tolka (An Tulcha, "the flood", as property owners know to their cost). The Royal Canal bounds it to the south: this has a good towpath and is navigable all the way to the Shannon. (Remarkably, its backers lost even more money than those of the Grand Canal.) On its east side is Croke Park, the centrepoint of Gaelic sports. To the west it runs into Glasnevin, which has the National Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin Cemetery and good restaurants. Many bus routes come this way, and commuter trains towards Maynooth stop at Drumcondra.
• Glasnevin Cemetery (Reilig Ghlas Naíon), Finglas Rd D011 XA32 (Buses 9, 13, 40 from O'Connell St or 40a/40d from Parnell St), 53.36969°, -6.27705°, +353 1 882 6500. Daily 09:00-17:00. This opened as an RC cemetery in 1832, in an era when the Catholics weren't allowed their own parish churches, and their burials were begrudged affairs in Protestant ground. Glasnevin has grown and grown, expanding south across Finglas road into the St Paul's section, but the famous names are north side. You can visit the cemetery free, but to make sense of it go to the visitor centre (daily 10:00-17:00, closed M Tu in winter). Walking tours at 11:30 and 14:30 take 90 min and visit the graves of Daniel O'Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell, Michael Collins, Eamonn De Valera and many others of historic or architectural interest. A back gate connects to the Botanic Gardens. Tour adult €13, conc or child €11 2021-10-15
• National Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin, Dublin 9, 53.3719°, -6.2700°, +353 1 804 0300, botanicgardens@opw.ie. Mar-Oct M-F 09:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00-18:00; Nov-Feb M-F 09:00-16:30, Sa Su 10:00-16:30. Extensive gardens favouring alkaline-loving species. The great Palm House (where Wittgenstein often came to warm his lugubrious backside) was rebuilt in 2004, though the original Aquatic, Fern and Cactus houses are still under restoration. A gateway leads into Glasnevin Cemetery adjacent. The gardens also manage the arboretum at Kilmacurragh in County Wicklow. Free 2019-07-15
• Clontarf is a suburb on the north shore of the Tolka estuary. Here in 1014 was the battle at which Brian Boru defeated Leinster and their Viking allies but was killed himself. Clontarf has a 4.5 km promenade, traversed by Buses 104, 130 and 32X from the city, so it's a popular seaside outing. (Don't take the train, which runs inland.) St Anne's Park was the estate of the Guinness family home, and has ponds, follies, walks and a Rose Garden. Clontarf Island has disappeared beneath the waves, but in 2004 archaeologists were astounded by a Moai or Easter Island statue that now stands near the pier, until they read in the newspapers that it was a replica gifted by the government of Chile.
• Bull Island is reached by two causeways. The South Bull and North Bull were sandbanks, and a confounded nuisance for navigation into Dublin; works to clear them began in the 18th century but the sea always won. In the 19th century a wall was built that funneled the estuary outflow, scouring the channel so the South Bull washed away while the North Bull grew into the present island. So it's not short of sand, and the 5 km Dollymount Strand is Dublin's best beach. The southern half of the island is a birdlife reserve and the north is St Anne's golf course. The south causeway from Clontarf, the "Wooden Bridge", was built in 1819 as a temporary access while the wall was built, but they decided to keep it: it's a single lane, traffic-light controlled. Causeway Road is the broader highway to mid-island.

Do

So Padraig comes for a job in construction, and the hiring boss says "So can you tell me, what's the difference between a joist and a girder?" "Sure, everyone knows that. Joist wrote Ulysses and Girder wrote Faust."

Tours

• Guinness Storehouse, St James's Gate D08 VF8H (Bus 13, 40 or 123, or Red Luas tram to Heuston), 53.341667°, -6.286944°, +353 1 408-4800. Su-Th 11:00-19:00, F Sa 11:00-20:00. Guinness is brewed in 49 countries and Ireland just happens to be one of them. The St James Gate brewery is still in production, now part of Diageo, and this vast storehouse has become an exhibition (self-guided) on the drink and the Guinness family. Price of entry includes a pint at the seventh floor Gravity Bar, which forms the head of the giant pint of stout formed by the atrium. Outside, touristy-trappy horse-drawn carriages ply for hire, but a stretch limo for the 2 km ride back to city centre might be cheaper. Adult €22, conc €19, child €10 2021-10-15
• Teeling Distillery, 13-17 Newmarket D08 KD91, 53.338°, -6.277°, +353 1 531 0888. Daily 10:00-18:00. Distillery opened in 2015, primarily for whiskey but with small amounts of poitín. Tasting tour €22 (pointless going for the cheaper "cocktail" tour) 2021-10-15
• Old Jameson Distillery, Bow Street, Smithfield D07 N9VH, 53.34815°, -6.27718°, +353 1 807 2355. Daily 12:00-19:00. Jameson whiskey was produced in Dublin from 1780 to 1976, when the business relocated to Midleton near Cork. So the old Bow St distillery no longer makes whiskey but has been converted into a museum about the process and industry. Adult €25, conc €19 2021-10-15
• The Lazy Bike Tour Company, 4 Scarlet Row, Essex Street West, Temple Bar, Dublin 8, 53.3446°, -6.2694°, +35314433671, hello@lazybiketours.com. Daily 09:30-17:50. The Lazy Bike Tour Company offers tours of Dublin by electric bike. They use state of the art, retro, funky orange bikes to get you around the city. The tour takes in some of the major sights in the city as well as taking you off the beaten track to show you a very real side of Dublin. Tours last around 2 hours and are guided by local guides full of information. €40 2015-08-20
• Walking Tours. Dublin city is famous for its characters. A great way to experience and live the city is by learning about it from people who are characters themselves - Dublin Tour Guides. Tours can vary from one to four hours in length and include, as well as the standard sightseeing tour, tours on topics like the paranormal and ghosts, music and song, literature, historical, 1916 Rising, and even Irish mythology. There are various walking tour companies and freelance tour guides available in Dublin. Anyone interested in geeky history should try the Ingenious Dublin tours, that cover history of medicine, Irish inventions (yes, there are lots!), great Irish scientists (lots of those too). They have walking tours and self-guided MP3 tours.
• Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, 'The Duke Pub', 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 (Just off Grafton St). 2. This is the most ingenious crash course in Irish literature, history, architecture and pub bonhomie yet devised... It combines street theatre with the 'craic' that makes Dublin pubs the liveliest in Europe. It is a highly enjoyable evening that gives you the pleasant notion of replacing brain cells as you drown them. The tour is a kind of rough guide to the cultural, religious and political life of the city. Performances by professional actors are central to the experience, not forgetting a fun-filled quiz with prizes for the winners. Can be a bit formal at times but this one's been going a long time and is well worth the experience for such an unusual tour. There's just enough time to stop in each pub for a pint as well. €10-12

Performing Arts

• Abbey Theatre (National Theatre of Ireland), 26/27 Lower Abbey St D01 K0F1, 53.348333°, -6.257222°, +353 1 878 7222. Opened in 1904, and always at the centre of the Irish drama scene, so the Abbey is a good venue for catching local playwrights' work but with a global repertoire. It's intended to replace the current building with two new theatres fronting onto the Liffey. This will mean a lengthy closure, but the work schedule has not been announced. 2021-10-15
• Gaiety Theatre, South King St, Dublin 2, 53.340312°, -6.261601°, +353 1 677 1717. Founded in 1871 so this is the oldest continually operating theatre in Dublin. It hosts popular musical shows, opera, ballet, dance and drama. 2021-10-15
• Gate Theatre, Cavendish Row, Parnell Square, Dublin 1, 53.353056°, -6.261944°, +353 1 874 4045. Has a focus on European and American theatre ranging from classics to modern plays. It was established as a theatre company in 1928 by Hilton Edward and Micheál MacLiammóir. 2021-10-15
• National Concert Hall, Earlsfort Terrace D02 N527, 53.33469°, -6.25892°, +353 1 417 0000. Offers classical concerts. Frequent performances by the resident orchestra, the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra. The main auditorium seats 1200 and there are three smaller spaces. It was built in 1865 for a trade fair then became an entertainment venue then the core of University College Dublin. It became a concert hall from 1981 when UCD moved to the Belfield campus. 2021-10-15
• Bord Gáis Energy Theatre (Grand Canal Theatre), Grand Canal Square, 53.34425°, -6.24004°, +353 1 677 7999. The theatre offers a wide range of shows featuring ballet, musicals, family shows, drama, concerts, comedy and opera. With a 2100-seater auditorium, the building was designed by Daniel Libeskind and completed in 2010. 2021-10-15
• International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival is held in May, celebrating the contribution of gay people to theatre, past and present. The event was founded in 2004 to mark the 150th anniversary of the birth of Oscar Wilde in his native city. It has an emphasis on new International and Irish works with a broadly gay theme or relevance. The next Festival is 2-15 May 2022.

Sports

Bloody Sunday

Sun 21 Nov 1920 saw shocking killings in Dublin. Ireland was nominally still part of the UK, but had declared independence, and civil war broke out. That Sunday morning, the IRA killed 16 British intelligence officers in Dublin. In the afternoon, Dublin had a Gaelic football match against Tipperary at Croke Park. Police, army and "Black and Tan" paramilitaries arrived mob-handed, officially to search the spectators for suspects. They began firing indiscriminately into the crowd: 12 were fatally shot (including a Tipperary player) and two more were crushed in the stampede to flee. It was a huge blow to the legitimacy of British rule. See Thurles for more on the link between Gaelic football and Irish identity.

• Gaelic games at Croke Park Stadium, Jones Rd, Dublin 3, 53.36076°, -6.25114°. Catch a hurling or Gaelic football game at this 82,300 capacity, state-of-the-art stadium. These sports are uniquely Irish. Hurling is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the fastest field sport, with the ball (called a sliotar) reaching speeds above 130 km/h. Gaelic football can best be described as a combination of soccer and rugby. To keep the sports "pure," it maintains an amateur status, with each parish in Ireland having a team — the inter-county games are generally extremely well-supported, so you may have difficulty getting tickets for the bigger matches. Tours of the GAA museum and the stadium are also available, including a chance to try your hand at the sports themselves. You can also walk across the roof of one of the biggest stadiums in Europe, which provides great views of the city's skyline.
• Tallaght Stadium, Whitestown Way, Tallaght (south of the city centre; easily accessible by public transport: just a few minutes walk from the Red Luas line terminal at The Square Shopping Centre and numerous bus stops), 53.28348°, -6.37353°. Watch a Shamrock Rovers F.C. soccer match during the FAI League of Ireland Football (association football) season from March to November. Home matches take place on Friday nights at 19:45. Tickets cost: €15 (Adult), €7 (U-16′s/OAPs).
• Shebourne FC were promoted in 2021 so they too play soccer in the Premier Division. Their stadium (capacity 3600) is Tokla Park in Drumcondra, 5 km north of city centre.
• Watch rugby union at RDS Arena, Anglesea Rd, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (3 miles south of centre; Bus 4, 7, 18), 53.32555°, -6.22944°. This is the home ground of Leinster Rugby, who play in the United Rugby Championship (formerly Pro14), the professional European league. They often win it, most recently in 2019. The stadium has a capacity of 18,500 and big games sometimes transfer to the larger Aviva stadium. 2021-10-23
• Aviva Stadium 📍 on Lansdowne Rd, Dublin 4 is Ireland's national stadium, capacity 51,700. International rugby, soccer and other big events are hosted here. It's a mile or so southeast of the centre, take DART train to Lansdowne Rd or buses towards Sandymount or Ballsbridge.
• Leopardstown Racecourse, Leopardstown, Dublin 18 (from Dublin city centre, follow the N11 south, turn right into the R113 (Leopardstown Road), the racecourse will be on your left), 53.265833°, -6.189167°, +353 1 289-0500, info@leopardstown.com. Located in the southern suburb of Leopardstown/Foxrock, there are regular meetings throughout the year. There is a "Pay as you Play" golf course within the racecourse grounds, as well as bars, restaurants and a nightclub (Club 92). €12.55, with reductions for students and OAPs

Other

• Irish Film Institute, 6 Eustace Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, 53.34461°, -6.26499°. Watch independent Irish and international movies. 2015-05-29
• Conradh na Gaeilge (Gaelic League), 6 Harcourt St, Dublin 2, 53.33718°, -6.26316°. An Irish language centre where you can hear Irish being spoken as a first language and also enjoy a beverage with friends.

Buy

Dublin is not cheap for general shopping, although visitors from outside the European Union can obtain a refund of VAT (sales tax: 23%) on many of their purchases. Just look for the refund sign and ask in the shop for details. Keep in mind that most stores will issue VAT refund vouchers only on the same day of purchase. More on VAT refund can be found on Irish eGovernment website.

South side

The south side of the river (Dublin 2) includes Dublin's most famous shopping street, the pedestrianised Grafton Street, which runs between St. Stephen's Green and Trinity College. It has, along with its surroundings, been classified as an Architectural Conservation Zone. This will involve a re-establishment of the area's rich historic charm and urban character. Alongside the historic Trinity College you will find Nassau Street where there are many shops selling tourist-related items such as Waterford Crystal, Belleek Pottery, Aran sweaters, and other Irish craft items. Dawson Street, parallel to Grafton Street, is home to the official residence of the lord mayor (the Mansion House) as well as several upmarket clothes shops, restaurants and well stocked large bookshops.

• Brown Thomas, 88-95 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, 53.34233°, -6.25995°. Dublin's most famous and expensive department store is on Grafton Street along with a wide range of clothing, jewelry, and photography shops, etc.
• Powerscourt Centre, 59 South William Street (just off Grafton Street), 53.34222°, -6.26185°. One of Dublin's most attractive shopping centres, set in a beautifully restored 18th-century townhouse. Here, you will find clothes, cafes, galleries and Irish designer jewelers. You must check out The Loft Market - it is a haven for Dublin Fashion. There is lots of up and coming young fashion designers and vintage clothing sellers such as, Lisa Shawgi Knitwear and MO MUSE to shop around. Beware the overpriced antique dealers, some of whom will drop a price by 50% after only the merest suggestion that you are willing to haggle (and it still may not be a bargain). For gifts, there is an engraving business based in the centre next to Bonsai Shop.
• George's Street Arcade (also known as: Market Arcade), Dublin 2 (Leaving Powerscourt via the ornate steps on to South William Street, you will find yourself facing a small street called Castle Market, which leads to the arcade), 53.34252°, -6.26389°. A covered red-brick shopping arcade. This area is worth a visit for vintage clothing, fabrics, unusual accessories, vinyl and club wear. It also features some small cafes.
• Hodges Figgis, 56-58 Dawson Street, Dublin 2, 53.34225°, -6.25823°. Well-stocked large bookshop (now owned by Waterstones).
• Kilkenny Design, 6 Nassau Street, 53.342156°, -6.255217°. Also sells above-mentioned tourist-related items.
• Fresh - The Good Food Market, Grand Canal Square, 53.34325°, -6.23889°. A smaller Irish supermarket with three other locations. One of the few places where you can find Guinness Foreign Extra Stout. Also offers beers from other Irish breweries. 2015-07-05
• The best concentration of shoe shops is found on Grafton Street and the adjoining Wicklow Street.

The Temple Bar area offers some alternative to shopping at the larger chain-stores. Small clothing boutiques, including the city centre's only swap shop, are popping up all around the area (Temple Lane, Crow Street and Fownes Street) with an emphasis on vintage and unique original independent designer pieces. If you can't make it to any of the markets at the weekend, the best can be found here during the week.

Be sure to visit Temple Bar's Temple Bar Square and Meetinghouse Square on a Saturday morning or afternoon for the markets (Dublin 2), which sells all types of foods, from traditional fare to delicious baked goods. Both squares are also home to several very good restaurants. Meetinghouse Square, which lies only about 150 ft (50 m) west of Temple Bar Square, sells much finer fare and more exotic foods than Meetinghouse Square.

• Casa Rebelde, Crow Street, Dublin 2 (in the heart of Temple Bar). A unique football supporters shop that stocks clothing from around the world for the fashion conscious football fan.
• Cow's Lane Fashion and Design Market, Dublin 8. The largest designer market in Dublin, offers handmade one-off original designs. The market is open every Saturday from 10:00-17:30. Found outdoors on Cow's Lane and indoors in the old Dublin's Viking Adventure, this market is not to be missed.

North side

There is also an extensive shopping area on the north side of the river, in Dublin 1, centred on O'Connell Street and Henry Street (Ireland's busiest shopping street). Just off Henry Street is Moore Street, which has a fruit, vegetable and fish market. It's worth a stroll if you want to get a slice of life from the less genteel side of Dublin. For a more traditional Dublin shopping experience go to the Liberties area around Thomas street and check out the stalls on Meath street and the liberty market (off Meath Street) on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Also, if you want to find thrifty nicknack shops, then Talbot Street is a good start - like any city, if you look hard enough and don't get caught up in the glitz and glam when shopping, there are great bargains to be found.

• Arnott's, 12 Henry St, 53.34911°, -6.26317°. A large department store with a long history.

• Jervis Shopping Centre, Jervis St, 53.34839°, -6.26577°. A large shopping centre.

• Ilac Centre, Henry St, 53.35011°, -6.26457°. Another large shopping centre. It also houses Dublin's Central Public Library.

• Chapters Bookstore, Ivy Exchange, Parnell Street, Dublin 1 (northern parallel street to Henry Street), 53.35149°, -6.26412°. Has a massive selection of books at generally cheaper prices than other high street stores, as well as a large secondhand section. It is especially great for 'coffee table' style art books.

• Further out are several edge-of-city malls. The largest are at Blanchardstown (off N3), Liffey Valley (junction of M50 and N4), The Square Tallaght (off N81), and Dundrum Town Centre (south on Luas green line).

Eat

Dublin has a wide range of good quality restaurants, most of which are seen as overpriced by European standards. Main course prices range from around €10 at the lower end up to around €40 at the higher end. Wine in restaurants is generally marked up from its already expensive retail price by a factor of at least two and three times retail price would not be uncommon.

There are many excellent value Indian restaurants around the South William Street area, parallel to Grafton Street. These often have reasonable priced lunch and 'early bird' deals, offering three course meals for around €10. Quality is high but not on a par with UK.

A similar multi-cultural hotspot is Parnell Street in Dublin 1 (O'Connell Street-Gardiner Street), which has a dense concentration of Chinese and Asian restaurants extensively frequented by the ex-pat communities.

In Dublin, there has been a rise in Mexican, Indian and ergonomically-designed eateries as restaurants, to reflect the hipster demographic. Many of the Indian and Mexican restaurants are small businesses.

Budget

• Bewley's Café, 78 Grafton St D02 K033, 53.34168°, -6.26035°, +353 1 564 0900. M-F 12:00-17:30, Sa Su 11:00-17:30. Grand stylish coffee shop, a Dublin institution. It's had some famous regular customers, from Joyce to Geldof, but they'll make you feel just as important. 2021-03-13
• BóBós, 22 Wexford St D02 YW98, 53.33649°, -6.26557°, +353 1 400 5750. Daily 12:00-00:00. Chain of burger restaurants (Bó is Irish for cow), they have three other city outlets. 2021-03-13
• Butlers Chocolate Café, 24 Wicklow Street D02 R981, 53.34296°, -6.26195°, +353 1 671 0591. M-F 08:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-18:00, Su 10:00-18:00. Chain of chocolate-themed cafes, Wicklow Street is the original outlet. There are three others in city centre, plus airside in T1 and T2 at the airport. They also ship orders. 2021-03-13
• Govinda's, 83 Middle Abbey St D01 EV91, +353 1 872 7463. M-Sa 12:00-20:00, Su 12:00-19:00. Hare Krishna-run vegetarian restaurant. Filling portions, only order their Special if you're really hungry. Their original outlet on Aungier St has closed. 2021-03-01
• Honest To Goodness, 12 Dame Court D02 YP65, 53.34345°, -6.2639°, +353 1 633 7727. M-F 08:00-17:00, Sa 09:00-17:00, Su 10:00-16:00. Cafe Bakery does good breakfasts and lunch. 2021-03-13
• Lemon Crèpe & Coffee Company, 66 South William St D02 FT51, 53.34291°, -6.26198°, +353 1 672 9044. M-F 08:00-17:00, Sa Su 09:00-17:00. Good value filled crèpes, they also do waffles and sandwiches. 2021-03-13
• Leo Burdock, 2 Werburgh St D08 HC82, 53.34301°, -6.27008°, +353 1 454 0306. Daily 12:00-00:00. Chain of fish & chips shops, this is Christchurch outlet. Takeaway only, flop down on a bench outside the Cathedral and scoff. Large portions. 2021-03-13
• Madina Street Food, 60 Mary St D01 CD40, 53.34864°, -6.26827°, +353 1 872 6007. Daily 17:00-21:00. Indian & Pakistani food, halal cuisine, no alcohol. They earned good reviews until 2020 but a string of bad ones since. 2021-03-13
• Pablo Picante, 131 Lower Baggot St D02 Y237, 53.33749°, -6.25158°, +353 1 662 9773, pablopicanteirl@gmail.com. M-F 12:00-20:00. Small friendly Mexican eatery, eat in or takeaway to nearby St Stephen's Green. They also have outlets at Clarendon Market, Ashton Quay and Dawson St. 2021-03-13
• Zaytoon, 44 Lower Camden St (opposite Bleeding Horse Pub), 53.34486°, -6.26737°, +353 1 400 5006. Daily 12:00-04:00. Casual Persian restaurant with kebabs etc. They also have a fast-food cafe in Temple Bar (corner of Parliament St and Essex St). 2019-05-20

Mid-range

• Bad Ass Café, 9-11 Crown Alley D02 ED77, 53.34532°, -6.26292°, +353 1 675 3005. M-Th 12:00-23:30, F 12:00-01:30, Sa Su 09:00-01:30. Modern pub and entertainment venue for US-themed food, plus trad Irish beer and live music. 2021-03-13
• Balfes, 2 Balfe Street (within Westbury Mall), 53.34121°, -6.26154°, +353 1 646 3353, reserve@balfes.ie. M-F 08:00-21:30, Sa 10:00-21:30, Su 10:00-16:00. Lively seafood restaurant with outdoor terrace. 2021-09-23
• Bar Italia, Ormond Quay D01 CA21, 53.3464°, -6.26497°, +353 1 874 1000. Daily 12:00-22:00. Good value Italian with great atmosphere. 2021-09-23
• Cornucopia, 19-20 Wicklow St D02 FK27, 53.3431°, -6.26148°, +353 1 677 7583, info@cornucopia.ie. M-F 09:30-20:00, Sa Su 10:30-20:00. Smart modern restaurant for vegetarian, vegan and other wholefood options. 2021-03-13
• Dunne & Crescenzi, 16 South Frederick St D02 RK68, 53.34238°, -6.25662°, +353 1 677 3815. Daily 10:30-23:00. Smart trattoria, rightly popular so get there early. 2021-03-13
• Elephant & Castle, 18 Temple Bar D02 HY86, 53.3457°, -6.26229°, +353 1 533 7563. Daily 12:00-22:00. Famous and popular for its chicken wings, you could have a very long wait for a table Saturday lunchtime. It's now a national chain but this is the original outlet. Mains €15-25 2021-03-13
• FX Buckley Steakhouse, 2 Crow St D08 N228, +353 1 671 1248. Tu-F 16:00-22:30, Sa Su 12:30-21:00. Quality steaks in a friendly and comfortable restaurant. Plus other meat and seafood, but not much for veggies. 2021-03-13
• Gallagher's Boxty House, 20 Temple Bar D02 ET66, 53.34569°, -6.26212°, +353 1 677 2762. M-Sa 12:00-21:30, Su 15:00-21:30. Good traditional Irish fare and not too expensive. A boxty is a traditional Irish potato pancake filled and rolled up. Also try the Irish stew and the chowder. Small, friendly, traditional Irish decor. 2021-09-23
• Peploe's, 16 St Stephen's Green D02 KF34, +353 1 676 3144. Tu-Sa 12:00-23:00, Su 12:00-21:00. Excellent basement wine bar and bistro. 2021-03-10
• Salamanca, 1 St Andrews St D02 R856, 53.34346°, -6.26165°, +353 1 677 4799. M-Th 16:00-21:30, F Sa 12:00-23:00, Su 13:00-21:00. Good value, tasty and substantial tapas, sized more like raciones, priced around €6-8. 2021-03-10
• TP Smiths, 9-10 Jervis Street D01 VX66, 53.34745°, -6.26603°, +353 1 872 4031. Daily 12:00-23:30. Very good pub food, also handy if you're shopping around Henry Street. 2021-09-23

Splurge

• Bang Restaurant, 11 Merrion Row D02 KW61, 53.33834°, -6.25484°, +353 1 400 4229. W-F 12:30-14:30, 17:00-22:00, Sa 17:00-23:00. A great cosmopolitan menu. Not cheap, but food and presentation is excellent. 2021-03-10
• Brasserie Sixty6, 66-67 South Great Georges Street D02 YD61, 53.342221°, -6.264649°, +353 1 400 5878, bookings@brasseriesixty6.com. M-F 12:00-22:00, Sa Su 10:00-22:00. Large, stylish modern European restaurant gets good reviews for food, service and atmosphere. €20-40 2021-03-10
• Fire Steakhouse, Mansion House, Dawson Street D02 AF30, 53.34°, -6.258°, +353 1 676 7200. Su-Th 17:00-23:00, F Sa 13:00-23:00. Casual dining restaurant in the former Supper Room of the Lord Mayor. 2021-03-10
• L'Gueuleton, 1 Fade St D02 RT92 (behind Hogan's Bar), 53.34193°, -6.26434°, +353 87 939 3608. M-Sa 11:00-23:30, Su 12:00-23:30. Pricey but highly-rated place. Hugely popular and traditionally they didn't take reservations, but they do now thanks to covid. It's an ill wind . . . 2021-09-23
• Kites, 15-17 Ballsbridge Terrace D04 H683, 53.329197°, -6.23195°, +353 1 660 7415. W-Su 17:00-21:30. Chinese, predominantly Cantonese, also in Szechuan, Peking and Thai style, gets great reviews. 2021-03-10
• Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, 21 Upper Merrion St D02 KF79, 53.33836°, -6.25294°, +353 1 676 4192. Tu-Sa 12:20-14:00, 19:00-22:00. Expensive but outstanding restaurant. 2021-03-10
• Purple Sage Restaurant is within Talbot Hotel Stillorgan, see Sleep.
• Roly's Bistro, 7 Ballsbridge Terrace D04 DT78, 53.32945°, -6.23227°, +353 1 668 2611. Daily 09:00-20:00. Lively bistro offering set menus. lunch €28, dinner €35 2021-03-10
• Unicorn, 12b Merrion Row D02 DA52. This remains closed in 2021. 2021-09-23

Drink

Water in Dublin is fresh and clean from the Wicklow Mountains. The water of Vartry reservoir at Roundwood is commended in Joyce's Ulysses but the characters go boozing instead. Poulaphouca at Blessington was built later, and Sally Gap is the scenic road between the two catchments.

Pubs: it's reckoned that Dublin has over 600. You can but make a start.

In 2021 you might pay €6 for a pint, glass of wine or measure of spirits, somewhat more in Temple Bar. Pubs are generally open Su-Th to 23:00 and F Sa to 01:00 or later. Hours were curtailed during covid, the plus (which will likely remain) was that pubs increased their food offering, which meant they were "restaurants" and permitted to stay open - "You must try our pizza!" became a legally enforceable invitation. Smoking is illegal within all Irish pubs but many have a beer garden or similar outdoor smoking area.

Temple Bar was named for the sand bar and mud flats along the south bank of the Liffey, reclaimed for building in the 17th century. "Temple" was both the name of the landowners, and of the Temple Bar district in London, with Essex St and Fleet St in the same respective positions. It's nowadays a tourist strip of cobbled alleys, drinking places, restaurants, more drinking places, shops, even more drinking places . . . it's very central so those stag and hen parties are probably just in for a quick one before heading to the Book of Kells or the big museums. Take care, but the sheer number of people on the streets gives you a measure of safety.

Traditional Irish pubs

• Peadar Kearney's, 64 Dame St, D02 RT72, 53.34427°, -6.26541°, +353 1 707 1890. M-Th 11:00-23:30, F Sa 11:00-00:30, Su 12:00-23:30. Named for Peadar Ó Cearnaígh (1883-1942) who penned Amhráin na bhFiann, Ireland's national anthem, and was uncle to the three Behans, authors and prolific drinkers all. The pub is a great spot for pre- and post-gig drinks next to Olympia Theatre, with a young crowd and live music from up and coming Irish trad bands. Mostly tourists here but a nice spot to talk to other visitors. 2021-03-09
• The Cobblestone, 77 North King St D07 TP22 (Smithfield Square), 53.34982°, -6.27785°, +353 1 872 1799. M-Th 16:00-23:30, F Sa 14:00-00:30, Su 13:30-23:00. They nicely describe themselves as "a drinking pub with a music problem" - they're famous for trad sessions. 2021-09-24
• Frank Ryans, 5 Queen St D07 D227, 53.34695°, -6.28007°, +353 89 217 3073. M-Th 16:00-23:30, F Sa 16:00-00:30, Su 12:00-23:00. A student favourite, this quaint pub keeps a traditional feel with a bit of a twist. Friendly bar staff and a highly mixed crowd of local students, law types, trendies and locals makes this a lively, fun spot for a few drinks. Expect weekly trad nights interspersed with Rockabilly, Country and Soul on the jukebox. 2021-03-09
• O'Donoghue's, 15 Merrion Row D02 PF50, 53.33816°, -6.25418°, +353 1 660 7194. M-Th 10:00-00:00, F Sa 10:00-01:00, Su 12:00-00:00. Famous for impromptu live music, it's where folk group The Dubliners were formed. 2021-09-24
• The Barge, 42 Charlemont St D02 R593 (Near St Stephen's Green), 53.33055°, -6.26058°, +353 1 475 1869. Daily 15:00-23:00. Friendly trad pub with good food and great decor. 2021-09-24
• Hartigan's, 100 Leeson St Lower D02 W023, 53.33596°, -6.25666°, +353 1676 2280. M-Th 11:00-23:30, F 11:00-00:30, Sa 13:30-00:30. Popular student bar, as a result occasionally raucous. Good option after international rugby matches. 2021-03-09
• The Brazen Head, 20 Bridge Street Lower D08 WC64, 53.34496°, -6.27636°, +353 1 679 5186. Daily 12:00-23:30. Surely the oldest pub in Dublin, founded in 1198 (Ireland's oldest, in Athlone, is from circa 900 AD). Wonderful on warm, dry summer nights. Live trad music and friendly atmosphere. One of the bars is covered in signed currency notes, there's quite a collection but lacking any bitcoins. 2021-09-24
• O'Shea's Merchant, 12 Bridge Street Lower D08 Y271, 53.34509°, -6.27577°. Live traditional music and dancing. It remains closed in 2021. 2021-09-24
• John Fallon's (Capstan Bar), 129 The Coombe D08 Y8CP (near St Patrick's Cathedral), 53.339°, -6.27337°, +353 1 454 2801. W-Su 16:00-23:30. Small and friendly local pub. 2021-09-24
• The Oval, 78 Middle Abbey St D01 RW24 (corner with O'Connell St, by tram crossing), +353 1 872 1264. M-Th 10:30-23:30, F Sa 10:30-00:30, Su 12:30-23:00. Good for drink and food, does an excellent Irish stew. Attracts a mixed age group. Lots of pictures of old Irish celebrities with a tribute to the Quiet Man. 2021-03-09
• John Kavanagh's (The Gravediggers), 1 Prospect Square, Glasnevin D09 CF72 (By Glasnevin cemetery), 53.36963°, -6.27192°. M-Sa 10:30-22:30, Su 12:30-22:30. Lugubriously authentic pub from 1833 and little altered, where you toast the departed in the next-door cemetery. 2021-09-24
• Bachelors Inn, 31 Bachelors Walk D01 FA48 (foot of O'Connell St). Good pints of Guinness and a choice of batch or regular white bread on your toasted sandwich. Popular post GAA match pub. It remains closed in 2021. 2021-09-24
• Bowe's Lounge Bar, 31 Fleet St D02 DF77, 53.34582°, -6.25794°, +353 1 671 4038. Daily 12:00-00:30. Victorian pub with a huge selection of whiskey. 2021-03-09
• Mulligans, Poolbeg St D02 TK71, 53.34691°, -6.25557°, +353 1 677 5582. Su-Th 12:00-23:30, F Sa 11:00-00:30. Busy pub with great Guinness and plenty of history having been frequented by James Joyce among others. 2021-09-24
• Nancy Hands, 30-32 Parkgate St D08 W6X3, 53.34817°, -6.29395°, +353 1 677 0149. Su-Th 12:00-23:30, F Sa 12:00-00:30. Family-friendly restaurant and bar near Phoenix Park, the National Museum at Collins Barracks, and Heuston railway station. 2021-03-09
• Ryan's (part of F.X. Buckley), 28 Parkgate St D08 CH93 (near Heuston Station), 53.34816°, -6.29348°, +353 1 677 6097. M-W 12:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00, Th-Sa 12:00-23:00, Su 12:30-22:00. Beautiful Victorian pub. A good place for a pint before getting a train out of Dublin. 2021-03-09
• Palace Bar, 21 Fleet St D02 H950, 53.34589°, -6.25963°, +353 1 671 7388. M-Th 10:30-23:30, F Sa 10:30-00:30, Su 12:30-23:30. Trad bar with interesting decor complete with "snug" (small private booth). Live music upstairs Wednesday and Saturday. 2021-03-09
• The Long Hall, 31 Georges St Great South, Dublin 2, 53.34181°, -6.26531°. Daily 12:00-23:30. Atmospheric bar with Victorian decor, nice window to sit and people watch. One of the last "long hall" bars in Ireland. 2019-05-20
• Kehoe's, 9 Anne St South D02 NY88, 53.34118°, -6.25949°, +353 1 677 8312. Daily 13:00-23:00. An excellent spot for a pint or a meal after a hectic days sight-seeing or shopping. Several snugs downstairs. 2021-03-09
• Kennedy's, 30/32 Westland Row D02 DP70 (rear of Trinity College), 53.34215°, -6.25075°, +353 1 679 9077. M-Th 10:30-23:30, F Sa 10:30-00:30, Su 12:00-23:30. Trad-style pub serving good food and drink with plenty of friendly atmosphere. 2021-09-24
• O'Neill's, Suffolk St D02 KX03, +353 1 679 3656. M, W-F 16:00-23:00, Sa Su 11:30-23:00. Excellent atmosphere in a Victorian style pub. They have great food with weekend lunchtime carvery. 2021-09-24
• The Stag's Head, 1 Dame Court D02 TW84 (off Great Georges St), 53.3438°, -6.26363°, +353 1 679 3687. Daily 13:00-23:00. Trad Victorian pub, no TV, just great ales and conversation. 2021-03-09
• Dawson Lounge, 25 Dawson St D02 XT59, 53.33976°, -6.25885°. Probably Dublin's smallest pub - 20 people and it's packed. So it can't meet covid rules and remains closed in 2021. 2021-09-24
• McDaids, 3 Harry Street D02 NC42 (next to Westbury Hotel), 53.34121°, -6.26104°, +353 1 670 4395. M-Th 10:30-23:30, F Sa 10:30-00:30, Su 12:30-23:00. This trad pub was a regular place for Brendan Behan and Oscar Wilde to ponder life. 2021-09-24
• Grogan's (Castle Lounge), 15 William St South D02 H336, 53.34221°, -6.26267°, +353 1 677 9320. M-Th 10:30-23:30, F Sa 10:30-00:30, Su 12:30-23:00. Wonderful trad pub, no music or TV. Great Guinness and a mixture of tourists and locals, with a hotchpotch of interesting art on the walls. 2021-03-09

Modern

• The Bailey, 1-4 Duke St D02 ET99, 53.34201°, -6.25948°, +353 1 670 4939. M-Th 11:30-23:00, F-Su 11:30-00:30. This swish bar attracts Dublin's belle-monde and celebs. Very busy on summer afternoons and evenings with a nice outdoor seating area. 2021-03-09
• The Lotts, 9 Liffey St Lower D01 E3F9, 53.34736°, -6.26336°, +353 1 872 7669. Su-Th 12:00-22:00, F Sa 12:00-23:00. Cafe bar, elegant interior with chandeliers, a marble bar and comfortable leather seating. Live music many nights. Small outside seating area. 2021-03-09
• Market Bar, 14a Fade St D02 A368 (in George's St Arcade), 53.34206°, -6.26406°, +353 1 613 9094. Su-F 12:00-21:30, Sa 12:00-23:30. Large spacious bar, with murmur of conversation in the background, nice tapas restaurant with a good value menu. 2021-09-24
• The Odeon, 57 Harcourt St D02 VE22, 53.33334°, -6.26236°. This attractive bar at the top of Harcourt St is in a converted railway station. It remains closed in 2021. 2021-09-24
• Pygmalion, 59 South William St D02 HK51 (in Powerscourt Townhouse shopping centre), 53.34217°, -6.2623°, +353 1 633 4522. Busy bar and restaurant with Med food, best book if you hope to eat. 2021-03-09
• Café en Seine, 39-40 Dawson St D02 X067, 53.34069°, -6.25866°. Daily 12:00-23:30. Fancy megapub on 3 floors, pricey. 2021-09-23
• The Globe, 11 South Great Georges St D02 V628, 53.34337°, -6.26428°, +353 1 671 1220. Daily 12:30-00:00. One of the original trendy bars to hit Dublin in the mid 90's. Still as cool as ever with one of Dublin's longest running clubs Ri-Ra in the basement - no cover charge for this. 2021-03-09

Micro-breweries and brew-pubs

• Against the Grain, 11 Wexford St D02 HY84, 53.33708°, -6.26544°, +353 1 470 5100. Daily 12:00-23:30. Owned by a Galway-based brewery, offers a wide variety of Irish micro-brews and world beers. Does not serve generic commercial beers on tap. A vibrant pub with an eclectic clientele. 2021-03-09
• Bull and Castle (part of F.X. Buckley), 5-7 Lord Edward St D02 P634 (next to Christchurch), 53.34343°, -6.26994°, +353 1 475 1122. M-Sa 12:00-22:00, Su 12:30-21:00. Gastropub and beer hall with a large selection of microbrewed and international beers. 2021-09-23
• J.W. Sweetman, 1-2 Burgh Quay D02 F243, 53.34697°, -6.25824°, +353 1 670 5777. M-F 15:00-23:00, Sa Su 12:00-23:00. Spread over two stories on two buildings near O'Connell Bridge, they produce a very good stout quite different to Guinness, fresher and more complex, plus their own ale and lager. Also has good cafeteria-style lunch. 2021-09-23
• Porterhouse, 16-18 Parliament St D02 VR94, 53.34508°, -6.26743°, +353 1 679 8847. M-Th 16:00-22:00, F-Su 12:00-22:00. As well as good indigenous brews including an oyster stout, there's an extensive Belgian and international beer list. Also does reasonably priced food. Has sister pubs on Grafton St and in Bray and Phibsboro. 2021-03-09

Bars

• The Foggy Dew, 1 Fownes Street, Temple Bar D02 WP21, 53.34445°, -6.26347°, +353 1 677 9328. W-Su 15:00-23:00. Popular central Victorian-styled pub. 2021-09-23
• Bruxelles, 7 Harry Street D02 KX36 (next to Westbury Hotel), 53.34133°, -6.26088°, +353 1 677 5362. Daily 10:30-23:00. Lively bar founded in 1886 and popular with 20 and 30 year olds. Spread over 3 bars the music is loud and the atmosphere is excellent. A statue of the legend Phil Lynott (from Irish rock band Thin Lizzy) is outside. If you like metal, rock and indie music go downstairs. 2021-03-09
• The Duke, 9 Duke St D02 NR76, 53.34196°, -6.25872°, +353 1 679 9553. Daily 12:00-23:00. Great after-work bar and Fridays it's packed to the door. 2021-03-09
• O'Donoghues, 15 Suffolk Street D02 C671, 53.34343°, -6.2597°, +353 85 241 7790. Daily 10:30-23:30. A comfortable bar with live music and TV sport. It's also a hang-out spot for some of the city's most well-known musicians, actors and DJs. 2021-03-09
• Fibber Magees, 80-81 Parnell Street D01 CK74, +353 1 872 2575. Daily 12:00-23:30. A heavy metal bar, handy for Rotunda Hospital. 2021-03-09
• O'Reillys, Tara St Station, +353 1 671 6769. Tu-Th 16:00-23:30, F M 16:00-03:00, Sa 17:00-03:00, Su 17:00-23:00. Victorian Gothic pub beneath the DART station, with Hell Club Saturday late-night music. 2021-03-09

Clubs

• Button Factory, Curved St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, +353 1 670 9202. One of Dublin's top clubs and live venues, with early shows from 19:30 and late shows from 23:00. Main venue has 550 capacity, Crowbar is both a theatre bar and a 60-person venue itself. 2021-10-20
• The Workmans Club, 10 Wellington Quay D02 VX36 (next to Clarence Hotel), +353 1 670 6692. Daily 15:00-03:00. From 1888 to 2003 this was the city's Working Mens Club, turning into a live entertainment venue in 2010. It's on two floors, the main live room is 300 capacity and beside it is the venue bar. Visitors find it friendly, relaxing and well-run. 2021-10-20
• The Academy, 57 Middle Abbey St D01 W573, +353 1 877 9999. This is nowadays primarily a live performance venue, but Friday and Saturday are clubbing nights. 2021-10-20
• Krystle, Harcourt St, Dublin 2. This club is a new haven for the nouveau riche and wannabe celebrities of Ireland. If you want to go C list celebrity spotting and doing some over the top posing with the D4 set, you'll be at home. For the regular visitor to Dublin, avoid, much better places on the list.
• Copper Face Jacks, 29 Harcourt St D02 XV58, +353 1 425 5300. Daily 23:00-04:00. Legendary club, a post-pub meat-market. Over 20s only, some of the clientele hoping to cop off are going on 120. Rooms available for private events. 2021-10-20
• The George, 89 South Georges St D02 R220, +353 1 478 2983. M-F 17:00-23:30, Sa Su 14:00-23:30. The oldest gay bar in Dublin. Usually it has late nights with drag shows, karaoke, bingo and DJs. In 2021 hours and amusements are much reduced but the place remains open. 2021-10-20

Sleep

Camping

Dublin is not well-served for camping or caravaning. The nearest to the city centre is beyond the M50 to the southwest.

• Camac Valley Caravan and Camping Park, Naas Rd, Clondalkin D022 DR60 (10 km west of city on N7 Naas Rd), 53.304°, -6.415°, +353 1 464 0644, info@camacvalley.com. Friendly well-run site on bus route to city. Car with tent or motorhome €25 2019-05-05

Budget

There are a huge number of youth hostels (mostly around €20 per night in dorm accommodation), bed & breakfasts (around €45 per person), and hotels (€50+ per room). Cheaper accommodation is to be found around Dublin's main bus station, Busaras. South of the river is more expensive.

• Abbington House, 30 St Annes Rd, Drumcondra D09 P9P0 (1 km north of centre near Croke Park), 53.363°, -6.261°, +353 1 444 1415, info@abbingtonhouseireland.com. Simple 3-star in north city. B&B double €70 2019-05-05
• Abraham's Hostel, 82-83 Lower Gardiner St D01 EE62, +353 1 855 0600, stay@abraham-house.ie. This is a passable budget hostel, very central. It has lukish "hot" water, and each room has one key that you share with the other occupants (whether you know them or not). Dorm €20 ppn 2019-05-05
• Anchor House Dublin, 49 Lower Gardiner St D01 T658, +353 1 878 6913, info@anchorguesthouse.com. Central simple B&B. Friendly helpful staff, mostly. B&B double €160 2019-05-05
• Ashling House, 168 Drumcondra Rd D09 XH90, 53.375°, -6.251°, +353 1 837 0300, ashlinghouse@gmail.com. Guesthouse in leafy Drumcondra. Decent rooms but it's not a B&B. Double (room only) €120
• Avondale House, 41 Lower Gardiner St D01 HD82, +353 1 874 5200, info@avondale.ie. Basic B&B accommodation (few en suite) in city center. 2019-05-20
• Backpackers Citi Hostel, 61/62 Gardiner St D01 X260, +353 1 855 0035, info@citihosteldublin.com. Very basic hostel, central, and only as clean as its worst recent occupant. Dorm bunk €15 2019-05-05
• Barnacles Hostel, 19 Temple Lane D02 Y223, +353 1 671 6277, templebar@barnacles.ie. Bright and spacious. Clean and nicely laid out ensuite dorms and doubles with in-room storage. Helpful staff. Dorm bunk from €50 ppn 2019-05-05
• Times Hostels Camden Place, 8-9 Camden Place D02 DA02, +353 1 475-8588. Friendly and clean backpackers hostel. 24-hour reception, free Wi-Fi/Internet, breakfast, tea/coffee, big kitchen to cook in, international land line calls, lounge with TV, outside terrace, artist's gallery and more. Has dorms & private doubles both with en suite or shared bathrooms. Dorm bunk €50 ppn 2019-05-05
• DCU Summer Rooms, Dublin City University, Glasnevin, Dublin 9, +353 1 700 5736. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Dublin City University's accommodation is open to the public from June - September. There are three types of accommodation. All have en suite rooms. Hot buffet breakfast is also available. Swimming pool and gym (additional fee) on campus. €36 - 89 2021-09-23
• Glen Guesthouse, 84 Lower Gardiner St D01 YY54 (5 min walk to O'Connell St), +353 1 855 1374, theglen@eircom.net. Clean friendly place, rooms have TV, direct dial telephone, tea & coffee-making facilities, power showers, en-suite. 2019-05-05
• Jacobs Inn Hostel, 21-28 Talbot St D01 W5P8 (100 m from bus & railway stations), +353 1 855 5660, jacobs@isaacs.ie. Nice, clean budget hostel with keycard security. A sister to Isaac Hostel. Ensuite shower and bathroom as well as an additional washroom at the end of each hall. The bunks are pods so there's extra privacy. Pod €22 ppn 2019-05-05
• Kinlay House, 2-12 Lord Edward St D02 P634 (One block south of river), +353 1 679 6644. Central yet quiet hostel. Open 24 hr a day with keycard entry to the room. Staff friendly and helpful. Dorm €40 ppn 2019-05-05
• Lyndon House, 26 Gardiner Pl D01 Y103, +353 1 878 6555. Basic 2-star near the James Joyce Museum and the Custom House. 2019-05-05
• Maple Hotel, 75 Lower Gardiner St D01 E125 (four blocks east of O'Connell St Upper), +353 1 855 5442, info@maplehotel.com. Basic 2-star, showing its age, no lift to upper floors. 2019-05-05
• Times Hostels College St, 8 College St D02 PX75, +353 1 675 3652. Decent backpackers' hostel, very central, some noise from bars and clubs nearby. Another branch at Camden Place near St Stephen's Green. Dorm bunk €60 ppn 2019-05-05
• Travelodge Dublin City Centre, Lower Rathmines Rd D06 R201 (2 km south of centre), 53.32506°, -6.26485°, +353 1 491 1402, rathmines@travelodge.ie. Reliable chain 3-star, though not exactly "city centre". B&B double €80 2019-05-05
• Trinity College (May to mid-September only), Various locations on the Trinity College campus, +353 1 896 1177 ext 1497. Summer accommodation at Trinity College is available in single, double or apartment-style accommodation (some with en suite). The continental breakfast is very generous. Campus security may be frustrating for guests who stay out late as there are limited access points into Trinity College after midnight, which can result in a long walk from the main gate to some of the residences. From €60
• Generator Dublin, Smithfield Square D07 F2VF (A block east of Queen St), +353 1 901 0222, dublin@generatorhostels.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Design-led hostel. Open social spaces but also a bar and a café to its guests. There are male and female shared rooms that come with all facilities, plus prrivate rooms. Group bookings and private hires available. Dorm bunk from €14 ppn 2019-05-05

Mid-range

• Abbey Hotel, 52 Middle Abbey St D01 W9H6 (2 blocks north of Liffey), +353 1 872 8188. Central 3-star, vfm facilities, some noise, and breakfast kinda basic. B&B double €170 2019-05-04
• Albany House, 84 Harcourt St D02 Y045 (100 m south of St Stephens Green), +353 1 475 1092. Good central 3-star, some noise in street-facing rooms. Shower and taps take 5 min to run hot, keep running and have faith. B&B double €230 2019-05-04
• Ariel House, 50-54 Lansdowne Rd, Ballsbridge D04 DD27 (by Aviva Stadium), +353 1 668 5512. Very comfy welcoming B&B near Aviva stadium. No dogs. B&B double €100 2020-05-29
• Baggot Court Townhouse, 92 Lower Baggot St, D02 KV77 (200 m south of Merrion Sq), +353 1 661 2819. Decent 3-star Georgian townhouse. B&B double €240 2019-05-04
• Barry's Hotel, 2 Great Denmark St, Dublin 1, +353 1 874 9407, barrys_hotel@eircom.net. Central 2-star, all rooms en suite, tea- and coffee-making facilities, free Wi-Fi. B&B double €200 2019-05-05
• Belvedere Hotel, Great Denmark St D01 W1C0 (a block back from Frederick St), +353 1 873 7700. Decent 3 star. B&B double €230 2019-05-04
• Clayton Hotel, Merrion Rd, Ballsbridge D04 P3C3 (3 km south of centre), +353 1 668 1111, info.ballsbridge@claytonhotels.com. Splendid 3-star in 19th-century school building. B&B double €230 2019-05-04
• Buswells Hotel, 23-27 Molesworth St D02 CT80 (corner with Kildare St, 100 m south of TCD College Park), +353 1 614 6500, info@buswells.ie. Georgian three-star hotel, small rooms but friendly staff, good location. B&B double from €200 2019-05-04
• Castle Hotel, Great Denmark St D01 R640 (2 min from O'Connell St), +353 1 874 6949. Georgian hotel with 130 bedrooms all en suite, free Wi-Fi, TV, tea & coffee facilities and hairdryer. Restaurant & bar with live Irish music every weekend. B&B double €80 2019-01-30
• Dublin Citi Hotel, 46-49 Dame St, Temple Bar D02 X466 (next to Central Bank), +353 1 679-4455, reservations@dublincitihotel.com. 3 star in busy central location, all rooms en suite. Hotel also has the Trinity Bar and Havanna nightclub. B&B double €250 2019-05-04
• Handel's Hotel, 16-18 Fishamble St, Temple Bar D08 E7R0 (off Dame St), +353 1 670 9404. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Central 3-star in the west end of Temple Bar. B&B double €200 2019-05-05
• Fitzwilliam Townhouse, 41 Upper Fitzwilliam St D02 PW71 (200 m south of Merrion Square), +353 1 662 5155. Georgian house with many original features. All room en-suite with free Wi-Fi. Decent 3 star, you're paying 4-star rates for the great location. B&B double €250 2019-05-04
• Fleet Hotel, 19-20 Fleet St, Temple Bar D02 WP97, +353 1 670 8124. Central 3-star, most rooms comfy, some a bit worn. B&B double €120 2019-05-04
• Grafton Guest House, 26-27 South Great George's St D02 X019 (corner with Fade St), +353 1 679 2041, booking@graftonguesthouse.com. In a 112-year-old Victorian Gothic style building but with generic modern interiors. Some visitors report that reception is next door at Kelly's, it's not clear if this is a permanent arrangement. B&B double €150 2019-05-04
• Leonardo Hotels (formerly Jury's Inn). Mid-range chain with two locations: Christchurch, facing Christ Church Cathedral and Temple Bar, and Parnell St, junction with Granby Row. B&B double €120 2019-05-04
• Kildare Street Hotel, 47-49 Kildare St D02 CT92 (Corner of Nassau Street near Trinity College), +353 1 679 4643, info@kildarestreethotel.ie. Simple mid-range hotel in old building on 3 floors with no lift. Blarney Inn pub and Club Nassau are also part of this hotel. B&B double €170 2019-05-04
• Maldron Parnell Square Hotel, Parnell Square West D01 HX02 (corner of Dorset St & Granby Row), +353 1 871 6800, info.parnellsquare@maldronhotels.com. Clean welcoming 3-star hotel, but a lot of construction noise in early 2019. Not to be confused with the Maldron at the airport. Room only double €89 2019-05-05
• Morehampton Townhouse, 78 Morehampton Rd, Donnybrook D04 WV96 (10 min on bus 38 from Trinity College), +353 1 668 8866. 3-star with all 22 room en suite, wi-fi, car parking. B&B double from €70 2019-01-30
• Portobello Hotel, 33 South Richmond St D02 CF40 (500 m south of St Stephen's Green), +353 1 475 2715, info@portobellohotel.ie. 2-star, many rooms have views onto the Grand Canal. B&B double from €70 2019-01-30
• River House Hotel, 23-24 Eustace St, Temple Bar D02 YP77, +353 1 670 7655, reservations@riverhousehotel.com. 2-star in the centre of Temple Bar. B&B double from €70 2019-01-30
• Sandymount Hotel (formerly Mount Herbert Hotel), Herbert Rd, Lansdowne Rd D04 VN88, +353 1 614 2000. A three-star hotel in the Ballsbridge area next to AVIVA Stadium. Nice classic building and good size rooms equipped with large bathrooms makes it good value. The bar is great and there is a nice patio area overlooking the hotel's garden. Free Wi-Fi, conference facilities, and the staff are friendly and approachable. B&B double from €100 2019-01-30
• Talbot Hotel Stillorgan, Stillorgan Rd, Blackrock A94 V6K5 (5 km south of city centre, take bus 145 or 46a), 53.295°, -6.202°, +353 1 200 1800. Upmarket hotel with spa, restaurant, bar, free wifi and free car park. B&B double from €180 2021-03-10
• Clarence Hotel, 6-8 Wellington Quay D02 HT44, +353 407 0800. Owned by Bono and The Edge from Irish band U2, buzzing happening sort of place... code for, you may get a lot of noise from Temple Bar, and "cool" means the showers are a tad lukeish. Overall it's a good central 4-star for 5-star prices: you're paying for the rock associations. B&B double €230 2019-05-04
• Waterloo Lodge, 23 Waterloo Rd, Ballsbridge D04 P526 (2 km south of centre, take Bus 39a), +353 1 668 5380. 3-star in quiet area. All 20 guest rooms are en-suite and free car parking is available. B&B double €180 2019-05-04
• Waterloo House, 8-10 Waterloo Rd, Ballsbridge D04 T651, +353 1 660 1888. Pleasant B&B in quiet area. No dogs. B&B double €200 2020-05-29
• Aspect Hotel Parkwest, Nangor Road Park D12 F2V4 (Park West Business Campus), 53.333°, -6.375°, +353 1 642 9100, res@aspecthotelparkwest.com. Edge of city hotel next to Park West & Cherry Orchard railway station and near Exit 9 of M50. Comfy, good service. B&B double €90 2021-09-23
• Premier Suites Sandyford, The Forum, Ballymoss Road, Sandyford Industrial Estate D18 Y9R9 (Tram: Stillorgan), 53.278°, -6.211°, +353 1 292 0200, info@premiersuitesdublinsandyford.com. Serviced apartments available for short stays. 2021-09-23
• Maldron Hotel Smithfield, Smithfield Market D07 RF2Y (Luas Red Line, Smithfield Stop), 53.3494332°, -6.2783211°, +353 1 485 0900, info.smithfield@maldronhotels.com. Rooms have free Wi-Fi, tea- and coffee-making equipment, and flat-screen TVs with DVD players. 92 rooms including family rooms, sleeping up to 6 people. B&B double €90 2020-07-23

Splurge

• InterContinental Dublin, Simmonscourt Rd D04 A9K84 (Ballsbridge 2 km south of centre), +353 1 665 4000. 5-star, gets great reviews for comfort and service. B&B double €420 2019-05-04
• Hampton Hotel, 29 Morehampton Rd, Donnybrook D04 Y6K4 (2 km south of centre on bus route to Donnybrook), +353 1 668 0995. Four-star boutique hotel. Original Georgian building with stylish interior design. Downstairs bar is noisy, pick an upper floor for quiet. B&B double €150 2019-05-04
• Hilton Dublin, Charlemont Place D02 A893 (1 km south of centre, take tram to Charlemont), +353 1 402 9988. Pleasant, modern hotel, clean and quiet. B&B double €300 2019-05-04
• The Morrison, Ormond Quay D01 K5X5 (just north of Liffey near Millennium Bridge), +353 1 887 2400. Comfortable stylish hotel, central for sights. Part of Hilton chain. B&B double €300 2019-05-04
• Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Golden Lane D08 VRR7, +353 1 898 2900. Five-star hotel, functional modern building, swish comfy interior and very centrally located. B&B double €350 2019-05-04
• Radisson Blu St Helen's Hotel, Stillorgan Rd, Blackrock A94 V6W3 (5 km south of city centre in St Helen's Wood), +353 1 218 6000. 5-star in grand old mansion in southern suburbs, on bus route to centre. B&B double from €300 2019-05-04
• The Morgan, 10 Fleet St, Temple Bar D02 AT86 (off Westmoreland St), NA°, NA°, +353 1 643 7000. Stylish accommodation in standard rooms, suites or penthouse apartments. All characterised by clean, modern design. B&B double from €200 2019-05-20
• The Shelbourne, 27 St Stephen's Green D02 K224, NA°, NA°, +353 1 663 4500. Five-star hotel overlooking Stephen's Green in the centre of Dublin. Fine old building dating to early 19th century, generally comfortable, but staff sometimes rushed and overloaded. Part of the Marriott chain. B&B double from €750 2019-05-04
• Alex Hotel (O'Callaghan Alexander), 41-47 Fenian St D02 H678 (opposite Davenport Hotel), NA°, NA°, +335 1 607 3700. Gets great reviews for comfort and dining. B&B double €180 2021-09-23
• Spencer Hotel Dublin City (The Spencer), Excise Walk, IFSC, D01 X4C9, +353 1 433 8800. Chic, luxurious five-star hotel in the docklands. The quay outside is busy, rooms at the back are quieter. B&B double from €160 2019-05-20
• Mont Hotel (O'Callaghan Mont Clare), 1-4 Merrion Street Lower D02 H525, 53.3415078°, -6.2507059°, +353 1 607 3800, info@ocallaghancollection.com. A 4-star, boutique hotel. 2020-03-03
• Green Hotel (Stephens Green Hotel), 1-5 Harcourt St, Saint Peter's D02 WR80, 53.337375°, -6.2632814°, +353 01 607 3600, info@ocallaghancollection.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. A 4-star, boutique hotel near St Stephen's Green and Grafton Street. 2020-04-08
• Davenport Hotel (O'Callaghan Davenport), 8-10 Merrion Street Lower D02 DX57, 53.3416667°, -6.2500275°, +353 01 607 3500, info@ocallaghancollection.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. The splendour of Georgian Dublin reimagined with the best of 21st-century facilities. 2020-04-08

Airport

Dublin Airport is north of the city near the town of Swords. Hotels listed here are so close to the airport that you'd travel that way to reach them, even if you weren't flying, and many inter-city buses run via the airport. Those closer to Swords town centre are listed on that page along with other amenities: they're much cheaper than their airport or city centre equivalents.

• Carlton Hotel, Old Airport Rd, Cloghran K67 P5C7 (500 m south of airport). 4-star hotel with free bus transfer to the airport. Bar-food menu and a restaurant on the top floor. B&B double from €90 2019-01-30
• Clayton Hotel Dublin Airport, Stockhole Lane, Swords K67 X3H5 (At jcn M50 / M1 exit for R139 Malahide, don't take airport off-ramp), 53.412°, -6.218°, +353 1 871 1000, info.dublinairport@claytonhotels.com. Convenient three-star hotel with free shuttle bus service to the airport. B&B double €250 2019-05-04
• Holiday Inn Express Dublin Airport, Stockhole Lane, Swords K67 E5C9, +353 1 903 8833. Modern hotel adjacent to the Clayton. Free airport shuttle every 30-60 min, wired internet, good continental buffet breakfast. No gym. Buses 16A/33/41 pass nearby, but it's at least 30 min to city centre. B&B double €80 2021-09-23
• Maldron Hotel is within the airport complex, B&B double from €150. Not to be confused with the city centre Maldron Hotel.
• Radisson Blu Hotel Dublin Airport (formerly Great Southern), Dublin Airport (200 m east of T2), +353 1 844 6000. Four-star accommodation within the airport complex just minutes from the passenger terminals. B&B double €240 2019-05-20

Stay safe

Dublin is generally a very safe city during the day by American and European standards but can be an intimidating place on weekend nights. As in most other large cities, a few crimes against the person, such as muggings, unprovoked attacks, and robberies, have been known to occur in Dublin. Treat Dublin as you would other Western cities, and be sensible: never walk in poorly-lit areas at night, especially alone. As Dublin centre is relatively compact, be aware that walking a few blocks can take you into some bad areas. Areas where crimes against foreigners have occurred include Rialto and western parts of the North Circular Road. Be especially vigilant or preferably avoid walking around the city centre altogether after bar closing times on weekends (02:30 - 03:00) when very drunk people looking to take advantage of other drunk people roam the streets and when violent behaviour and crime are most likely to occur. Most homicides in the city are gang related.

Never be afraid to approach Gardaí (police officers) to ask for help or directions – it is their job to help. If you do get into trouble somehow and fear for your safety (which is very rare) and cannot find a Garda officer, head to the nearest establishment such as a bar or shop where you will be safe. Call the emergency services on "999" or 112, free from any phone, and ask for the relevant service. If you have no phone, ask anyone working in a shop or bar to call the police for you, and the employee will gladly assist. Also, most doormen and bouncers in pubs will gladly call the police for you if you explain your situation.

Area information

• Avoid the Boardwalk and Lower Abbey Street, as a large number of drug addicts hang around these areas due to nearby drug rehabilitation centres.
• The area around Temple Bar is an attraction for both tourists and pickpockets. Be aware of your surroundings.
• Most suburbs on all sides of the city are very safe, but there are a few rough areas, mostly on the Northern and Western peripheries of the city, which are seldom visited by tourists but might warrant some caution. Nonetheless, those interested in urban regeneration may find a visit to Ballymun (home to Ireland's most well known tower-blocks as well as Swedish furniture superstore IKEA) and Tallaght (a historic village that was developed into a 70,000-strong residential suburb) of interest.

People

• You will see a wide variety of buskers and street performers, these are normal people just plying their trade; they are usually very helpful for directions and appreciate your donations. (Busking and street performance is an old and vibrant part of Irish culture, and there is nothing unusual or unsavory about a person playing an instrument or performing in a public place even in the small hours of the morning. So approach and appreciate these talented and friendly individuals. Be aware that it is considered rude to photograph a street performer without tipping.)
• If people approach you on the street, they could indeed be people just looking for directions, charity workers looking for donations, or people simply looking for a cigarette lighter. Be aware that Dublin people are usually open and unlike big cities like London or New York, talking to complete strangers is a common and regular occurrence.
• If someone who appears to be drunk, under the influence of drugs or a habitual drug user, approaches you asking if they can talk to you for a moment, it is wise to keep walking (although expect drunk people to talk to you in a pub as it is common). These people may simply ask you for a cigarette or some money for a bus, but be aware that most Dubliners, even if they have no money, would never ask a stranger for money or cigarettes (although asking for a light for a cigarette is common). There are several scams being used on unaware tourists and locals alike so please be careful and use your judgement. If someone comes to you on the street, touches you, and/or asks you for something, say "no" or "sorry" and walk away. Again, locals will almost never behave like this so avoid people who do.

Traffic

• When driving, leave nothing valuable visible in your car, and lock doors while driving through slow traffic in the city. There are plenty of taxis at all hours of the day and night, which are safe and usually friendly.
• Dublin has heavy traffic, and even if several of the locals tend to cross the road without having a green man, it is not recommended to follow this example. Hardly any of the cars slow down in front of zebra-crossings in busy and crowded streets.
• If you rent a bicycle, ensure you rent full safety wear (helmet and lights) failure to do so can (albeit rarely) result in fines. If possible, travel by foot or public transport is best.
• Care should also be used when taking some of the "Nitelink" buses that frequent the city as they, while often safe, have seen their fair share of trouble. Sit downstairs if possible, if only to avoid the more raucous singing, shouting, and post-drinking vomiting.
• Taxis are well regulated in Ireland, but many taxi drivers have been known to take longer routes when tourists are being carried, ask for the quickest route. If staying in a hotel or hostel your host may be able to help you acquire a reputable taxi.
• Be aware when crossing over roads where pedestrians have an official right of way sign, as these are frequently ignored by Dublin motorists particularly taxis; also beware that unlike a lot of European cities, Dublin cyclists will nonchalantly cycle on footpaths. This often happens even when there is also a cycle lane right beside the path, something that, in turn, is frequently ignored by the Gardai.

Cope

Medical

You should only go to the hospital if you're too ill to go there, so to speak. For immediate treatment of minor ailments try one of the Walk-in Medical Centres. The most central are at 16 Dame St D02 TD50 (M-F 09:30-18:30, Sa 11:00-17:00, Su 12:00-16:00) and at 71 Middle Abbey St D01 E7K5 (M-F 10:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-15:00). They're private so an EHIC card won't help. Expect to pay €60 for a consultation, plus the cost of any prescription or other treatment.

Embassies

• 🇦🇷 Argentina, 15 Ailesbury Drive, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 269 1546. 2019-05-21
• 🇦🇺 Australia, Level 3 47/49 St Stephen's Green, 53.337667°, -6.255781°, +353 1 664 5300. M-F 08:30-16:30. 2019-05-21
• 🇦🇹 Austria, 93 Ailesbury Road, Dublin 4, +353 1 269 4577, dublin-ob@bmeia.gv.at. 2019-05-21
• 🇧🇪 Belgium, 1 Elgin Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 631 5284, Dublin@diplobel.fed.be. M-F 09:00-13:00 and 14:00-15:00. 2019-05-21
• 🇨🇦 Canada, 7-8 Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2, +353 1 234 4000. 2019-05-21
• 🇨🇱 Chile, 44 Wellington Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 667 5094, echile.irlanda@minrel.gov.cl. 2019-05-21
• 🇨🇳 China, 118 Merrion Road, Dublin 4, +353 1 219 6651. 2019-05-21
• 🇨🇺 Cuba, 32B Westland Square, Pearse Street, Dublin 2, +353 1 475 2999, infocubadublin@eircom.net. 2019-05-21
• 🇩🇰 Denmark, 7th Floor, Block E, Iveagh Court, Harcourt Road, Dublin 2, +353 1 475 6404. M-Th 09:00-16:30, F 09:00-16:00. 2019-05-21
• 🇫🇮 Finland, Russell House, Stokes Place St. Stephen's Green, Dublin 2, +353 1 478-1344, sanomat.dub@formin.fi. M-F 09:00-12:00 and 13:30-16:00. 2019-05-21
• 🇫🇷 France, 66 Fitzwilliam Lane, Dublin 2, +353 1 277 5000. 2019-05-21
• 🇩🇪 Germany, 31 Trimleston Avenue, Booterstown, County Dublin, +353 1 269 3011. M-Th 08:00-17:00, F 08:00-14:00. 2019-05-21
• 🇬🇷 Greece, 1 Upper Pembroke Street, Dublin 2, +353 1 676 7254, gremnb.dub@mfa.gr. 2019-05-21
• 🇭🇺 Hungary, 2 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2, +353 1 661 2902, mission.dub@mfa.gov.hu. 2019-05-21
• 🇮🇳 India, 6 Leeson Park, Dublin 6, +353 1 497 0843, +353 1 4966792, +353 899858536 (for emergencies). 2019-05-21
• 🇮🇱 Israel, Carrisbrook House, 122 Pembroke Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 230 9400. M-F 10:00-13:00. 2019-05-21
• 🇮🇹 Italy, 63-65 Northumberland Road, Dublin 4, +353 1 660 1744. 2019-05-21
• 🇯🇵 Japan, 3rd Floor, Nutley Building, Merrion Centre, Nutley Lane, Dublin 4, +353 1 202 8300. M-F 09:30-13:00 and 14:00-17:00. 2019-05-21
• 🇲🇽 Mexico, 19 Raglan Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 667 3105. M-F 09:00-18:00. 2019-05-21
• 🇳🇱 Netherlands, 160 Merrion Road, Dublin 4, +353 1 269 3444, dub-info@minbuza.nl. 2019-05-21
• 🇳🇴 Norway, 34 Molesworth Street, Dublin 2, +353 1 662 1800, emb.dublin@mfa.no. 2019-05-21
• 🇵🇰 Pakistan, Ailesbury Villa 1-B, Ailesbury Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 261 3023, pakembassydublin@gmail.com. 2019-05-21
• 🇵🇱 Poland, 5 Ailesbury Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 283 0855, dublin@msz.gov.pl. 2019-05-21
• 🇵🇹 Portugal, 70 Upper Leeson Street, Dublin 4, +353 1 669 9100. M-F 09:00-13:00. 2019-05-21
• 🇷🇴 Romania, 26 Waterloo Road, Ballsbridge, +353 1 668 1150, dublin@mae.ro. 2021-12-02
• 🇷🇺 Russia, 184-186 Orwell Road, Rathgar, Dublin 14, +353 1 1492 2048, info@russianembassy.ie. 2019-05-21
• 🇿🇦 South Africa, Alexandra House 2nd Floor, Earlsfort Centre, Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, +353 1 661 5590. 2019-05-21
• South Korea, 15 Clyde Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 660 8800. 2019-05-21
• 🇪🇸 Spain, 17A Merlyn Park, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 269 1649, emb.dublin@maec.es. 2019-05-21
• 🇨🇭 Switzerland, 6Ailesbury Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, +353 1 218 6382, dub.vertretung@eda.admin.ch. 2019-05-21
• 🇬🇧 United Kingdom, 29 Merrion Road, Dublin 4, +353 1 205 3700. 2019-05-21
• 🇺🇸 United States, 42 Elgin Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, 53.330325°, -6.233717°, +353 1 668-8777. 2022-01-02

Connect

As of March 2021, most of the city has 5G from all Irish carriers. Some suburbs have 5G only from Eir, with a 4G signal from Three and Vodafone.

Dublin City Libraries, Ilac Centre, Henry St, Dublin 1. There's free wifi and internet access throughout the network of branch libraries. You'll need to register as a user to access. 2021-03-01

Go next

Almost all of Ireland is within 2-3 hours travel from Dublin, and the transport routes converge on the city. People even make day-trips to the Aran Islands out west or Giant's Causeway in the north, a mad way to experience them. Those listed here are all within an hour of the city.

• County Dublin:

• Dun Laoghaire is the city's former harbour, and Dalkey is a prosperous seaside suburb with Riveria architecture.
• Howth is a scenic peninsula. Boat trips sail to Ireland's Eye, teeming with bird life.
• Malahide has a beautiful castle. A walk along the coast brings you to Portmarnock beach.

• County Meath:

• Brú Na Bóinne Archaeological Park has the megalithic tombs of Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth.

• County Wicklow:

• Enniskerry has the gardens of Powerscourt and the highest waterfall in Ireland.
• Glendalough is a remarkable monastic village in a scenic mountain valley.