Howth - suburb of Dublin, Ireland
Howth (rhymes with BOTH) is a small seaside town in County Dublin, 14 km northeast of Dublin city centre. It's on a "tombola" peninsula - once an island, it became connected to the mainland by a sandy isthmus, which is now the residential area of Sutton.
There isn't a TIC but see the town website for info.
Understand
The name "Howth" is probably from Old Norse Hǫfuð, a headland. Vikings colonised here from 819, and after their defeat by Brian Boru at Clontarf in 1014 they held out here until 1177. Then the Normans crushed them (hence the "Bloody Stream") and began building the castle. Howth developed as a fishing and trading port. In the 19th century it competed with Dún Laoghaire to be a shipping port for Dublin, but silting of the harbour meant it eventually lost its commercial business. Fishing continues and there's a coastguard base, there is also an extensive leisure marina. The main reasons to visit Howth are for its beaches, clifftop walks and boat trips. It's glorious in Aug and Sept when the heather cloaks the cliffs in red. In 2016 the town had a population of 8277.
Get in
By train
DART trains run every 30 min from central Dublin, taking about 30 min. A day-return costs €6.25, a single costs €3.30 or €2.40 with a Leap Card. These trains originate in Bray or Greystones and run north via Dalkey, Dún Laoghaire, Pearse Station, Tara Street, Dublin Connolly (for mainline trains), Howth Junction, Bayside and Sutton to Howth station 📍 near the harbour.
Other DART trains run from Connolly to Howth Junction but then continue north to Malahide, instead branching 5 km east into Howth; so you must change at the Junction if you find yourself on one of these. This means that coming from the north, you can reach Howth by changing at Drogheda then Malahide then the Junction, without travelling into Connolly and out again.
By bus
Bus H3 and H6 run to Howth from Dublin Abbey Street (opposite Abbey Theatre)via Amiens St outside Connolly Station, along Howth Road through Clontarf, Killester, Raheny and Bayside to Sutton. H3 continues on the north side of the pennisula to Howth harbour and The Summit on the Ben of Howth. Buses run every 30min and take 50 min, longer in heavy traffic. Bus H3 turns around at The Summit. Bus H6 is less frequent takes about an hour but is more scenic. It turns right along Strand Rd Sutton and-continues up the south side of the hill on Carrickbrack Rd then to the Summit and Howth harbour.
From the airport, Bus 102 runs every 30 min via Swords, Malahide and Portmarnock to Sutton station. Change there to bus, Dart train or walk to reach Howth.
By boat
Dublin Bay Cruises sail daily to Howth from Dún Laoghaire (east pier) mid-March to September. They sail at 12:30, taking an hour, with views over Dalkey Island, Clontarf, Bull Island, Baily and Kish Lighthouses, Howth Head, Ireland's Eye and Lambay Island. The return sailing (from west pier) is at 15:30. An adult single is €25, which includes a voucher to return by DART train for only €2 if you don't sail back.
Get around
Buses H3. H6 run through Howth as described above. Otherwise walk.
See
- Howth Harbour 📍 is the second biggest commercial fishing port in Ireland and also contains a leisure marina. There are excellent views along the coast from the East Pier and a stone lighthouse at the tip of it. The West Pier just beside the Dart Station is lined with restaurants and there's an imprint of the footsteps of King George IV, who landed here on a visit to Ireland in 1821. (Yes, the cement was wet at the time, he was notoriously heavy but not that heavy.) In July 1914, 900 rifles were landed at Howth by Erskine Childers to arm the Irish nationalists; many were put to use in the Easter Rising and Anglo-Irish war.
- Howth Abbey 📍 (or St Mary's Abbey) is just a masonry shell within a cemetery. It dates back to 1235 though much modified over later centuries. Enter the cemetery from Church Street: the Abbey ruin itself may be locked, enquire locally about access, or just admire the setting with the old gravestones and views over the harbour and Ireland's Eye.
- Howth Castle, 53.386527°, -6.079034°. Closed. The castle dates from 1450 but was extensively re-built by Lutyens in 1911. The castle estate or desmesne includes much of Howth Head, with the outlying areas (eg the clifftop walks) having free public access. It's set in Deer Park, an extensive parkland with rhododendrons and a golf course. In 2019 the estate was sold to an investment group, and the castle is closed for redevelopment as a hotel. The castle cookery school is also closed. It's not known what will happen to the Transport Museum here. 2020-08-03
- St Mary’s Church of Ireland is an attractive little stone church at the castle gates, on Howth Rd west of the Dart station. It was built in 1866.
- Dolmen Howth or Aideen's grave is a partly-collapsed megalith in the woods 300 m west of the castle golf club. "Portal Tombs" of this style were built until around 2500 BC, but Aideen is a mythical figure from around 3rd century AD.
- National Transport Museum, Heritage Depot, Howth Demesne (next to the castle). Sa Su 14:00-17:00 but erratic. Volunteer-run museum with some 100 vehicles, including the trams which formerly lumbered over the Hill of Howth. It's not known what will happen over the sale of the castle but the museum remains open in 2020. In any case it needs to find a better home, because the exhibits are tightly parked together, and Ireland's transport history deserves a better display. Adult €3, child & conc €1.25 2020-08-03
- Ben of Howth 📍 is an open area of three hills. The highest, topped by radio aerials, is Black Linn, 171 m (561 ft) so it's a "Marilyn". You can drive or walk up: Greenhollows Quarry is active, so this part is ugly, with heavy machinery churning the track. The other peaks are Shielmartin Hill (163 m) 1 km west, and Dun Hill 500 m northwest. Good views over Ireland's Eye and on a clear day you can see the aircraft landing and taking off at Dublin Airport.
- Ireland's Eye 📍 is a small uninhabited island north of Howth, reached by a 15-min boat ride. There are ruins of a Martello Tower and the 8th-century "Church of The Three Sons of Nessan". Just off the Eye are the islet of Thulla and "The Stack" at the northeast corner. Birdlife includes guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, gulls, gannets, cormorants and a few puffins. Grey seals may haul out on the rocks. There are no restrictions on access, but please avoid the cliffs (e.g. for rock-climbing) April-June during the main nesting season. In summer a couple of boat operators ply to the island and others make non-landing cruises around it, adult fare €15, enquire at Howth harbour.
- Claremont Beach is right behind the Dart station down a rather grim concrete path, however there are nice views and its possible to walk (or scramble at high tide) along the sand all the way back to Sutton. Lifeguard is on duty during the summer months.
Do
- Walk: a firm trail goes east of town along the cliffs all the way round to the south of the peninsula, passing Bailey Lighthouse. A complete circuit takes 3-4 hours.
- The lighthouse can also be approached by a 15-min walk from The Summit pub, but the lighthouse and its precincts are closed to the public.
- Inland trails loop over the hills, but you need stout boots and waterproofs, the "Bog of Frogs" route is well-named.
- Maps for these and other ‘looped walks’ are displayed by the Dart Station and available at the Tourist office in the Old Courthouse.
- Beaches: at low tide a long sandy beach stretches along the north shore from Sutton to Howth Harbour. Dogs are welcome. The rising tide separates it into Burrow Beach to the west, Hole in the Wall in the middle, and Claremont Beach next to Howth Harbour. The far side of the harbour is Balscadden Bay, quite stony, then it's rocks and cliffs east of there. South tip of the peninsula is Jameson or Drumleck beach, small and not worth the extra distance. There are one or two beautiful little sandy coves on the south side of the Howth peninsula, accessible from the cliff walk which starts close to Sutton dinghy club.
- Play golf at Deer Park by the castle, Howth Golf Club near the west shore, or Sutton Golf Club on Cush Point to the west.
- Dublin Bay Prawn Festival is held in May. Dates for 2022 are tba.
- Howth Tradfest is a traditional music and ballad festival. .
- Howth Roots & Blues Festival (formerly called the Jazz Festival)
Buy
Howth Market is next to the DART station, held Sa Su 09:00-18:00.
Eat
- Several small cafes & takeaways around the harbour.
- Aqua Restaurant, West Pier, 53.39230°, -6.06947°, +353 1 832 0690. M 17:30-22:00, Tu-Sa 12:30-15:30 & 17:30-22:00, Su 12:00-17:00 & 18:00-21:30. Fine dining at the end of West Pier. Seafood restaurant with lunch and à la carte menus available. Dinner mains €30 plus sides 2020-08-03
- The Bloody Stream, Howth Dart Station, +353 1 839 5076. M-Th 12:00-23:30, F-Su 12:00-01:30. Great seafood. Mains €20 2020-08-03
- Summit Inn, Thormanby Rd, Howth Summit (hilltop terminus of Bus 31 from Dublin), 53.37262°, -6.05807°, +353 1 8324615. M-Th 11:00-23:30, F Sa 11:00-00:30, Su 12:00-23:00. Good seafood at reasonable prices. Perfect for a stop after a hill walk. Mains €15 2020-08-03
- King Sitric, East Pier, 53.38833°, -6.06376°, +353 1 832 5235. Restaurant W-Sa 18:00-21:00, Su 13:00; bar daily 10:30-22:00. Restaurant by the harbour serves freshly caught fish but is expensive. Also has rooms. 2-course dinner for €40 2020-08-03
- Dog House Blue's, Howth Dart Station, +353 1 839 5188. M-Th 11:00-00:00, F Sa 09:00-01:00, Su 10:00-12:00. Cafe and restaurant, comfortable and child-friendly, with indoor and heated outdoor seating. 2020-08-03
Drink
- Abbey Tavern, 28 Abbey Street Howth (next to Abbey), +353 1 839 0307. Su-Th 12:30-23:30 F Sa 12:30-00:30. A welcoming pub with authentic fireplace and decent food. Occasional live music. 2020-08-03
Sleep
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Most visitors just day-trip from around Dublin, and there is limited accommodation.
- King Sitric Restaurant has rooms, see Eat listing. B&B double from €160.
- Tara Hall B&B (dead link: January 2023) is on Balscadden Rd east above the cliffs, tel +353 1 832 4892.
- Hazelwood B&B is on Thormanby Rd, tel +353 1 839 1391.
- Highfield B&B is at 42 Thormanby Rd, tel +353 1 832 3936.
- Azure B&B is at 20 Offington Drive, tel +353 1 832 4442.
- Cornerville B&B (dead link: January 2023) is at 83 Offington Ave, tel +353 1 839 3585.
- Gleann-na-Smol, Kilrock Rd, 53.385°, -6.060°, +353 1 832 2936. Small friendly B&B south end of town off Nashville Rd. B&B double €90 2020-08-03
- Marine Hotel, 13 Sutton Cross, Dublin 13 (metro to Sutton), 53.389°, -6.110°, +353 1 839-0000. Three-star hotel with its lawn rolling down to the shore of Dublin Bay. Facilities include a swimming pool, sauna, restaurants and bar. Close to Howth Village. B&B double €200 2020-08-03
- Martello Tower 📍 along the east coast is available for self-catering, June-Aug £1600 per week, shorter lets available Sept-May from £200 / night.
Connect
As of Sept 2021, Howth and Sutton have 5G with Eir and 4G with Three and Vodafone.