Epupa Falls - waterfall on the Cunene River in Angola and Namibia

Epupa Falls is in Kaokoland in the remote north of the Kunene Region of northwestern Namibia. Most inhabitants are Ovahimba (singular: Omuhimba).

Get in

The small settlement of Epupa is situated on the Namibian side of the Kunene River directly at the Epupa Falls. There is no ship travel on the Kunene River. There is a gravel air strip about 8km south-west of the settlement but there are no scheduled flights that go there. Thus, apart from fly-in safaris the only access is by road. The regional road C43 leads directly to Epupa. There is also the district road D3700 from Ruacana but you need a 4x4 to use it.

Get around

See

• The Epupa Falls, of course.

Do

• River rafting on the Kavango, N$680 per person (Feb 2021), book at Kapika Waterfall Lodge
• Guided nature walk, N$285 per person (Feb 2021), book at Kapika Waterfall Lodge

Buy

• There is a small curio market right next to the community camp site. This is one of the few places where authentic Ovahimba goods and jewellery is sold: items that an Omuhimba would wear as part of their traditional attire, or use in everyday life. In larger places with Ovahimba market stalls (in Windhoek, Opuwo, Okahandja) you'll only get items made by Ovahimba but not worn by them. If you intend to buy something more than a souvenir then first ask around for a guide, and take him along. The major items are somewhat pricey, and fakes are not easy to identify.
• Arsenal mini market and bar, -17.002°, 13.248°. Basic supplies but no fresh produce. The beer is from the freezer, so either much too cold or much too warm, but at a fraction of the price charged by the bars inside the various camps. There are meat stalls right in front of the building where you can try goat meat (N$5 per piece) and junkies (fried dough dumplings N$1 per piece). Very tasty, very cheap, very Namibian. 2019-04-02

Eat

There are two options to get lunch or dinner in Epupa: Visit one of the informal meat stalls in the settlement, or go to the upmarket camps that have a restaurant. These camps serve food also to day visitors but require prior booking, several hours in advance.

Drink

All tap water comes from the Kunene River. Apply your own judgment whether you are robust enough to drink it. The bars stock bottled water; expect to pay around N$50 per litre for it.

Sleep

Budget

• Epupa Community Camp Site, -17.0026°, 13.2436°. Camp site for purists. Old palm trees, braai stands, a common ablution block, and nothing else. Closest to the falls, literally metres away. 2021-03-03
• Motjikutu Epupa Campsite, -17.001°, 13.252°. Very basic camp site directly on the river. 2019-04-02

Mid-range

• Kapika Waterfall Lodge, -17.003°, 13.253°. 10 double rooms without aircons or power sockets. You may charge your equipment in the lapa, though. The food is very good. Wi-fi is free of charge but hardly works. Nice view onto the Kunene from the restaurant and the small pool. There are also two small camping plots with grass, shade nets, water and lights, no sockets. N$1,500 per person sharing for bed, breakfast and dinner. Beer from the can N$35 2019-04-02
• Epupa Lodge & Campsite, -17.002°, 13.245°. Chalets and camping spots, old shady trees, pool, restaurant, curio shop. 2019-04-02
• Omarunga Lodge/Campsite, -17.002°, 13.246°. Chalets and camping spots, old shady trees, pool, restaurant. A very noisy generator right next to the pool. 2019-04-02
• Epupa Camp, -17°, 13.253°. Community-run upmarket camping spots under old shady trees, with private ablution facilities and pool. 2019-04-02

Connect

Cell phone connection is very patchy in this remote spot. Some phones might be able to connect to the Namibian network, but without advanced services like data or MMS.

Stay safe

The Kunene River has crocodiles and hippos. It is not safe to swim there. Directly at the Falls you will see people swimming or washing, as neither crocs nor hippos come close enough to risk dropping down the Falls. Just how close is close enough, nobody can tell. Outside the settlement it is not safe to even go near the river, as hippos are both aggressive and territorial and can easily outrun a human on land.

Go next

Go for an adventure off the beaten track in Kaokoland.