Foula (Old Norse Fugley, "bird island") is one of the Shetland Islands, some 20 miles out into the Atlantic west of Shetland Mainland. In 2011 it had a population of 30.
Foula is roughly pear-shaped, 3.5 miles long by 2.5 miles wide. A lane runs along the east side, which has farmland and the main settlement and ferry landing at Ham. The west is heath and peat bog, rising to five hills: Da Noup in the south and four grouped in the north. These end in great sea-cliffs swirling with bird life, while waves dash against stacks and arches. The hills draw the mist and cloud, unlike the low-lying Mainland, and when snow falls Foula from the ferry looks like a huge iceberg.
Foula along with all of Orkney and Shetland was Norse until the 15th century when they were all ceded to Scotland. But this remote place was bypassed, and its residents continued to speak Norn until the last native speaker died in 1926. They still celebrate Christmas and New Year by the Julian calendar, now 13 days adrift from the Gregorian calendar adopted on the mainland in 1752. It's a traditional, self-sufficient way of life based on crofting. Foula vies with Fair Isle for the title of Britain's most remote inhabited island - it depends on your definition, and it's enough to know that by the Foula definition, Foula is the most isolated. If it looks familiar, that's because it was the location for the 1937 Michael Powell film The Edge of the World, based on the undeniably more remote St Kilda.
There isn't a TIC, but Foula Heritage have two part-time rangers who can assist visitors.
The New Advance ferry sails from Foula to Walls on Shetland Mainland at 09:30 on Tuesdays and Thursdays, returning to Foula at 13:30, a two-hour crossing. This means the islanders can just about day-trip to Mainland, but a day-trip out to Foula is not possible. The ferry only has room for 12 passengers and cars are not carried so park at Walls. Until April 2023, the adult return fare is £12.40, conc and child £2.40, booking is essential on +44 1595 840 208.
In summer cruise ships occasionally call, transferring visitors to dinghies to get ashore.
Ham 📍 is the landing point and main settlement. There's not much shelter in Ham Voe, so the ferry boat is hauled out of the water between trips.
Airtask fly from Lerwick-Tingwall to Foula 2 or 3 times M-F and once Sa May-Sept, taking 15 mins. Oct-April it's once on three days a week and twice on two, so a day-trip is often possible, with 6 hours on the island. Until Oct 2022, the adult return fare in £88 and there's a 15 kg total baggage limit. For bookings call +44 1595 840246, you can't book online as they prioritise residents and essential visitors such as the GP.
Foula airfield (IATA: FOA) is a mile south of the main village. It has a waiting room with toilets, and that's about all. Flights are weather-dependent so you could be sat here for some time. The Airtask schedule shows it as FOU, which is actually the IATA code for Fougamou in Gabon, so let's hope they've briefed the stand-in pilot.
Walk, and wear stout boots. It's not worth bringing a bike, the sights of interest are away from the lane over rough boggy ground.
Sorry. The post office has closed down.
Bring all your supplies, there are no shops or food outlets on the island.
Watch out for skuas, they will dive-bomb you if you get too close to their nests
There is no pharmacy on Foula. There's a resident nurse in the village, ask around or call 111.
As of Nov 2021, there no mobile signal from any carrier on Foula, its ferries or mainland ports. There are plans to install 4G masts during 2022.
Back to Shetland Mainland it must be.
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