The Giant Mountains, known as the Karkonosze (pronounced [ˈkr̩konoʃɛ]) in Polish, Krkonoše in Czech, and Riesengebirge in German, are part of the Sudetes mountain range in Central Europe and form the border between Poland and the Czech Republic. They offer beautiful scenery and winter resorts. The Giant Mountains include two national parks - Krkonošský narodní park (Giant Mountains National park) in Czech Republic and Karkonosze National Park in Poland. This article is about the first one.
There are four main towns in Giant Mountains National Park, from west, these areː Harrachov, Rokytnice nad Jizerou Špindlerův Mlýn, and Pec pod Sněžkou.
The national park is quite large, about 40 km in west/east direction and 20 km in south/north direction. It covers the whole Czech part of Giant Mountains, which are the tallest mountains of the Czech Republic. The mountains are quite scenic, even though they do not resemble the typical mountains such as Alps, they are much more similar to what you would expect to see in Scotland or Scandinavia - that means that you won't find any tall rocks or step cliffs here. Giant Mountains are a popular tourist destination for hiking in summer and skiing in winter, and can sometimes can overcrowded as such. The best time to visit for hiking is probably June because of good weather and smaller crowds, while other summer months are fine as well. For skiing, the best time to come is probably December or January.
The highest mountain Sněžka can be translated as "Snowhead" and is located directly on the Polish-Czech border. At 1,603 meters high, it is the highest mountain of the Czech Republic. There is a restaurant and a chapel on the Polish side. The peak can be reached via a modern gondola from the Czech side or a more antiquated chairlift from the Polish side. Hiking trails to peak approach from both sides of the mountain as well. The Elbe River starts near the border - it is one of the longest rivers in Central Europe and flows from the Czech Republic, (Bohemia) all the way through Germany to Hamburg.
There is a popular myth about the protector of the Giant Mountains, a giant or mountain spirit known as Krakonoš in Czech, Liczyrzepa in Polish, or Ruebezahl in German. You will find wonderful images of him everywhere!
Until 1945, the region was German-speaking on both sides of the border, you find remnants of this interesting history in the area's buildings, food and legends. The numerous mountain huts were often build by German settlers of this area. During communist era (1945 - 1989) this area was discovered as a skiing destination, which continued into modern times. Today, it is one of the most popular tourist destination in Czech Republic, especially among domestic tourists, both in summer and winter.
The upper border of the forest is located very low (1200 meters above sea level) in Giant Mountains, which is the thing that makes it interesting. Higher parts of the mountains have a Scandinavian look, with just low bushes or no vegetation at all. There are many valleys, called důl which were carved by glaciers in the last Ice Age. Most scenic of these valleys is Obří Důl, through which leads the main trail up to the Czech Republic tallest mountain, Sněžka.
Some areas of the national park are closed because of Western capercaillie during their mating season. While this might sound interesting, they look like a turkey and it is unlikely to encounter them, as they are rare. The icon of the national park is Gentiana flower, which is common here. Above 1200 meters above sea level, trees turn into creeping pines bushes.
The mountain have Scandinavian look, but they also often have Scandinavian weather, especially in the upper parts. Snow starts to fall in late September is gone by May. Avalanches are common in spring. Even in summer, it is better to have a good jacket when going up to the mountains. Average July temperature on the Sněžka mountain is just 8.3°C, with night dipping below zero.
There are direct buses from Prague to all four mentioned towns. All of these buses departure from Černý Most station in Prague, which is inconveniently located at the eastern end of yellow metro line B. Ticket should cost around 200 Kč, with some discounts for students, children and elderly. Buses run an seemingly random times during the day, but usually there is some around noon. The ride takes about three hours. Use IDOS to find the timetable. You can also directly buy your ticket there.
Both Harrachov and Rokytnice nad Jizerou train stations are a bit far from the town, so if taking a train, be prepared for some walking.
Harrachov has a train station with hourly connections to Liberec, Tanvald and Szklarska Poręba in Poland. From Tanvald, there is a connecting express train to Prague. There are also two daily direct express trains from Prague to Harrachov, at 7ː25 and 13ː25. It costs 200-300 Kč and takes three hours to get to Harrachov from Prague. The last part of the journey, between Tanvald and Harrachov is quite scenic. The railway has been renovated on the Polish side, so you can now use it when going from Wroclaw or Jelenia Góra.
There are infrequent local trains from Rokytnice nad Jizerou to Martinice v Krkokonoších, from where you would have to change train several times to get somewhere more useful. Trains to Rokytnice nad Jizerou run only on weekend. There are no trains going to Pec pod Sněžkou and Špindlerův Mlýn, but you could take a train to nearby Trutnov or Vrchlabí, and take a bus only for the last leg. Use IDOS to find a connection.
You can easily use a car to get to any mentioned towns, but if you are planning to stay at some mountain hut, ask the hut staff about getting a permission for you car. Upper parts of the hills are generally off limits for cars. If coming from Poland, be prepared for some scenic serpentines.
There are no fees imposed on the Giant Mountains national park. Some areas are off-limits in mating season, and it is forbidden to walk off the marked trails in the national park area. Cars are forbidden at most places, except main roads.
When going to the neighbouring Karkonosze National Park in Poland, be careful, as there are some fees there. This is however no problem if you walk only the crest trail, which dips into the Polish national park quite often.
Local buses connect larger mountain towns. For schedules, consult the IDOS timetable. During summer season, there are special tourist bus lines (dead link: January 2023), transporting bikes.
Most useful is the longest route (No. 1, red color), connecting Harrachov, Rokytnice nad Jizerou, Jilemnice, Benecko, Vrchlabí, Janské Lázně, Pec pod Sněžkou and Pomezní boudy. This bus operates twice a day, morning and afternoon. Therefore you can plan a one-way trip by foot and return by bus (or vice-versa). If you planning a day trip, be definitely check the bus schedule, as last buses tend to depart in late afternoon, and after that, you would get stranded.
There are several cable cars usable if you prefer it to hiking.
In the summer, you can para-glide, hike, bike, and there is a boathouse on the Elbe dam; you can fish here and play tennis and squash.
Direct buses from Praha-Černý, most to Harrachov and Pec pod Sněžkou. It's possible to buy online, price ~200 Kč). From/to Žacléř, one needs to change buses in Trutnov.
For navigation, use the application mapy.cz. Some parts of this hike could be done as day trip, for example from Žacléř to Pec pod Sněžkou via Sněžka mountain.
There is at least one supermarket in every mentioned town. Even these supermarkets have slightly inflated prices compared to bigger cities.
If there is "bouda" (it means mountain hut) in the name of the place, you can also find accommodation there. Giant Mountains even have their own speciality - "Krkonošské kyselo", a bit sour soup made from bread, mushrooms and potatoes, very tasty.
Finding a place to sleep should not be a problem in Giant Mountains, as mountain huts (bouda) are omnipresent. It is however better to book a space in one ahead, as some might be sold out in summer. All the mountain huts serve food.
Typical camping is not an usual way to sleep to Giant Mountains, and as such, there is only one big camp in the whole area.
Giant Mountains national park is not very welcoming to people who would like to save as much as possible on accommodation. The mountain huts network is very dense, so there are no tourist shelters usable for sleeping on the crest trail. Wild camping is forbidden, and this is enforced, unlike in other parts of Czech Republic.
Giant Mountains were historically inhabited by Germans and are still more popular among German tourists than tourists from any other country (except Czechia, of course). As such, most people working in tourist services will speak some German. German might be even more useful than English, which is sometimes taught only as a third language in this region. Some mountain huts even have a website only in Czech and German, with no English option. However, finding someone who speaks English should be no problem, same as in the rest of the Czech Republic.
Watch the sun, especially in autumn when it goes down quite soon. You do not want to be at the crest trail when it gets dark, as it is also very cold and it might be difficult to find a lodging on the last minute (there are no emergency huts as are in some other national parks). The weather is dangerous is general - snow usually starts to fall at the at end of September and avalanches are common in the begging of spring. Also storms might present a problem, as there are no trees on the mountain ridge - check weather forecast before you go there. Do not venture in the mountains alone and always tell someone (eg. staff at you mountain hut) where are you going and when are you planning to return.