Mamallapuram (Tamil: மாமல்லபுரம்), also known as Mahabalipuram, is a tourist town 60 km south of Chennai on the east coast of India, famous for its stone carvings.
Mamallapuram dates back to the Tamil Pallava dynasty in the 7th-9th century. The structures here, mostly carved straight out of granite, are among the oldest existing examples of Dravidian (South Indian) architecture.
Today's Mamallapuram is purely a tourist town and one of the major attractions around Chennai. The East Coast Road has made it easily accessible - just about an hour from the city. Unfortunately, the entire strip is now a mess of restaurants, resorts, amusement parks, people, discarded plastic and chaotic traffic. At one time you could see the Bay of Bengal almost all the way to M'puram, but now there is so much development that the ocean is glimpsed only as you get close to M'puram.
Mamallapuram itself was getting run down over the last decade with very patchy efforts at keeping the monuments preserved. This has changed in the last few years with the Shore Temple being included in the UNESCO heritage project. The surroundings have been made much nicer, but, there has been a lot of wind and water erosion on the temple carvings with many of them having undergone loss of detail over the years. Sort of too little, too late, but still, better than nothing.
Be prepared to fight your way through clutches of beggars, guides, snakes charmers and so on, all of which is an essential part of the experience and not to be frowned upon. The whole thing would be bland without them. A nuisance, but harmless.
Buses arrive in the centre of town from CMBT and Tiruvanmiyur in Chennai and from Kanchipuram. There are direct buses from CMBT, but you can take any bus that has ECR written on the front. The ECR bus, which can be picked up at Tiruvanmiur, is the most economical way of getting to Mamallapuram from Chennai, costing less than ₹40 (1 hour). The ECR bus will drop you about 2 kilometers outside of town, and rickshaws will be outside waiting (can be bargained down to ₹30). You can also catch the ECR bus from Pondicherry for ₹65 (2 hours).
To get to the ECR from Triplicane, walk to Kamarajar Promenade running parallel with the beach. Walk to the beach side of the road and head to the nearest bus stop. Take bus SP19 or SP19x to Tiruvanmiyur (₹15). The ECR bus stop is 30 meters before the Tiruvanmiur stop.
A taxi from Chennai will cost ₹600-₹800 one-way (USD 15 to 20) though the rates are likely to be higher based on the season, cab operator. Visitors outside Chennai, even Indian nationals and most definitely from Overseas are likely to be asked for higher rates. To or from the airport will cost ₹800-₹1,200 and will take one hour off peak and 1 1/2 hours peak time. Please negotiate the cab fares at the beginning of the journey and remain firm if the operator asks for more.
The drive from Chennai on the East Coast Road is, by Indian standards, a wonderful experience: it is one of the few toll roads in India and maintained well. That said, it's still only one lane per direction with no divider, so overtaking tends to be hair-raising and high-speed head-on collisions are all too common. The road runs parallel to the coast of Bay of Bengal making it a scenic driveway, although you will not see the sea until the last few miles. The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami wreaked havoc around here, so you will see shanty-towns built for affected fishermen and much of the greenery has been swept away.
It is easy to get around the town on foot, though bike rental is also available. It is relatively a small city and all points of interest are close to each other. Paid parking areas are available near the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas.
You can also hire a cab (non-a/c) for about ₹150 for 2 1/2 hours, during which you will be taken to all the major tourists spots in Mamallapuram.
For visiting all three sites the Shore Temple, cave temples and the Five Rathas you need to buy entry tickets. One can buy tickets online at https://asi.payumoney.com/quick/mam or by scanning the QR Code displayed at entry gates of tourist places and then paying through mobile wallets. The ticket counter closes at 5:30PM and entry to the attractions ends at 6PM. A combined entrance ticket to the Shore Temple and the Five Rathas costs ₹600 for foreigners and ₹35 for Indian citizens. Local guides, who speak multiple languages, are available for around ₹600 for a tour of all main attractions.
These temples are carved out of a rock rather than carved into a rock (Cave temples).
The cave temples are carved into a rock.
The structural (free-standing) temples at Mamallapuram have been built with cut stones as building blocks, rather than carved into a rock (cave temples) or out of a rock (ratha temples).
Reliefs are carved on rocks or boulders.
Local sculptors in the main street leading to the sea (after the Tina Shell View Lodge) teach stone carving. You will learn how to sculpt a simple locket, and the longer you stay, the more complicated things you'll be able to do. For a simple locket at least 5 hours are needed. For ₹100 a day you can learn/work as long as you like everyday (the result is yours of course).
Stone sculptures made by local artists. You can see them on their work (and also learn it yourself, see #Learn). You can save a lot of money if you buy sculptures in small side roads and not in the main road.
There are lots of food stands in the centre serving large portions for next-to-nothing prices. Look specifically at the road leading down the Shore Temple from the bus stop, early in the morning at breakfast time.
Mamallapuram is famous for its coconuts, which are available from hawkers around all major sites.
Clustered around Othavadai Street and Othavadai Cross are restaurants catering primarily to tourists, which serve generally undistinguished Western food. Your best bet is often fresh grilled fish (which you can usually select yourself) served with french fries or salad.
Sea Shore Garden Beach restaurant (Garden View Restaurant), Othavadai Cross Street (At Greenwoods Beach Resort), 12.61958°, 80.19827°. Excellent food, each order freshly prepared, views of the street or the garden courtyard. Breakfast ₹25-45, lunch and dinner ₹65-145 2020-02-07
Gecko Cafe, Othavadai Cross, 12.61975°, 80.19656°. Family-run, fast, friendly and clean. Features Indian veg and non veg food as well as freshest seafood, offers a nice lake view for bird watching and has a relaxed atmosphere, very helpful waiter and cook. 2016-11-22
The Golden Palate, 104, East Raja Street (At Hotel Mamalla Heritage), 12.61872°, 80.19383°, +91 44 27442060, +91 44 27442260, +91 44 27442360. Serves excellent Indian vegetarian food. Breakfast from 7AM is a poor deal at ₹153 (including tax) for a fairly simple buffet. It does, however, offer air conditioning! The lunch from midday is highly recommended... the best vegetarian thali spread for miles! It also has a pleasant non-veg restaurant on the rooftop. 2020-02-07
Mamalla Bhavan, Shore Temple Road (near Raja Street), 12.61678°, 80.19355°, +91 44 27442250,. Cheap, very good, popular veg thali (unlimited vegetables and curries, fixed rice and roti/bread) joint. ₹90 to ₹120 (lunch thali as of 2021-02-04) 2021-02-04
Moonrakers Restaurant, Othavadai St, 12.61959°, 80.19639°. Multi-story restaurant with eclectic decoration, listed in all the guidebooks and hence quite popular with foreign tourists. The menu runs the gamut of Indian and Western favorites, veg and non-veg, although staff will try to steer you towards the expensive seafood items. Most dishes under ₹100, but seafood will cost you more. Also expect to pay more for extra bread or rice, drinks, etc. Beers around ₹150. Now expanded to control two places opposite one another.
Nautilus, #4, Othavadai Cross Street, 12.61943°, 80.19672°. Popular with foreign tourists, this French-owned cafe features credible Western food, a decent cup of coffee, a competent and friendly waitstaff, and a library stocked with Tintin and Asterix volumes. ₹50-₹200 2020-02-07
The New Cafe (Lakshmi Lodge), No 6, Ottavadai Cross St, 12.61879°, 80.19696°, +91 44-27442463. Serve healthy breakfast and excellent vegetarian food (Tamil Nadu style) and variety of fresh fish, prawns and lobsters, crabs and calamari freshly prepared with excellent taste. A beautiful terrace with view of the ocean and sound.
Saabra Fast Food, 12.61988°, 80.19424°. On the corner of Ottavadai Street and East Raja Street. Only four tables available at hole in the wall. Caters to a mostly Indian crowd. Fresh, tasty Northern India food at a great price. Full menu available for lunch and dinner. Most main dishes are under ₹50. Naan ₹15. 2020-02-07
Sri Ananda Bhavan Restaurant, corner of Ottavadai Street and East Raja Street, 12.61988°, 80.19424°. Primarily an Indian scene but popular with Westerners too. Pure veg, cheap and good. Big lunch (dal, sabzi, rice, two chapatis, salad, pickles, ice-cream) for ₹60, Idli breakfast for ₹20, Dosa Masala for ₹25. Get a food ticket at the desk. 2020-02-07
Surf Turf Mahabs, 12.61926°, 80.19828°. Surf provides a wide variety of food for all seafood lovers. This restaurant is at the entrance of the town. If you are not the greatest fan of seafood, then you will find this restaurant over priced. If you are really hungry, then Surf is not a good place to eat. The service is really late and you will receive your order just before you are about to starve down. 2020-02-07
Many restaurants serve beer though it may not be on the menu, usually Kingfisher but sometimes 'Bullet' (slightly higher alcohol content). Prices of beer are generally ₹130-150 (premium-strong) per bottle at cost and sold at ₹250 (if you ask) in restaurants.
No government-run TASMAC wine shop is available in town; to buy alcohol you must drive around 2 km out from Mamallapuram to the TASMAC Elite near the ECR road junction of Mahabalipuram town.
Greenwoods Resort, Othavadai Cross, 12.61925°, 80.19697°, +91 44 27443118, greenwoods_resort@yahoo.com. Pleasant family-owned hotel with a charming restaurant serving freshly cooked meals on a terrace overlooking the street and a lovely garden courtyard. ₹700-1500 for AC/Non-AC rooms, some with terrace balcony. Full breakfast included.
Hotel Mamallaa Heritage, 104 East Raja St, 12.61820°, 80.19400°, +91 44-27442060, +91 44-27442260, +91 44-27442360, mamalla@vsnl.com. An authentic Southern Indian hotel, which is famous locally for its buffet meals and smiling hospitality. Room rates start from ₹2400 per day (updated on Jan 2022), including complimentary breakfast buffet. The hotel does not provide any mini-bar or alcoholic beverages on the room service menu. The hotel also has a swimming pool on the first floor. 2022-01-29
Hotel Pallava Dynasty, 23 East Raja St, 12.61872°, 80.19434°, +91 9600146900, support@syncrooms.in. Comfortable rooms and cottages in a tropical garden setting that leads to a lovely garden courtyard. ₹1000-3000
Lutz Guesthouse, 12.62091°, 80.19830°. Nice guesthouse on the beachside.
Mamalla Beach Resort, 108, Kovalam Road, 12.6405°, 80.1996°. 35 sea view rooms with balconies and attached bath. Options of air conditioned standard and deluxe rooms, swimming pool, multi-cuisine restaurant with 24 hour room service.
Sea Breeze, Othavadai Cross (at the end of the street), 12.61824°, 80.19682°, +91 4114 243035. Beach resort with a swimming pool. Ayurvedic massage is available on-site. ₹1000-2000.
TTDC Beach Resort Complex, Near Petrol Bunk, Kovalam Road, 12.63597°, 80.20160°, +91 44-27442361, +91 44-27442362, +91 44-27442363, +91 44-27442364. This is a government-owned resort and is a part of Tamilnadu tourism. The pricing is decent and all rooms are sea/beach facing. The place is relatively clean but the service is slow. The location and view is great. The food is bad. The complimentary breakfast is mostly South Indian and is not too good on most days. Great place to stay on a budget but eat out! ₹2000+tax
Bob Marley Guesthouse & Restaurant, 182 Fisherman's Colony, 12.62025°, 80.19829°, +91 9840-098260. On the beach, 2 minutes walk from the center of the village. 4-5 rooms, all with seaview and fan. One with aircon. Also very good restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner. All food is freshly prepared after ordering.