In New Smyrna Beach, a city in Volusia County of Florida, blue skies meet of white sand on what has been named one of the world's "best surf beaches" by Surf magazine and National Geographic. New Smyrna Beach lays claim to the best Florida offers — excellent backwater, offshore fishing, golf, historical sites, cultural events, and eclectic shopping and dining experiences along Flagler Avenue and Canal Street. Although the beach is the "shark bite capital of the world," don't let that discourage you from visiting the beach and having a good time.
New Smyrna possesses a distinct hometown quality reflected in its cracker architecture, lush subtropical landscape and community. You can spend the afternoon enjoying fresh seafood to steaks and pasta on the waterfront, or under an umbrella at a sidewalk cafe, and then retire to a bed and breakfast inn, family-size condominium or oceanfront hotel at the end of the day.
For the more curious tourist who is willing to explore the city, however, New Smyrna Beach has a more varied culture that exists away from the resorts along the shoreline. It's a community on the borderline of town and city with a diverse and unique history, from its unusual founding as a colony for Mediterranean Islanders and Greek Romanos to its post-Civil War African-American community, fame as the origin of painter and TV star Bob Ross, and multiple arts centers.
New Smyrna has two seasons: Snowbird Season and Orlando. People from Canada and the northern U.S. drive to Florida during the early months of the year, starting around December until early summer. Orlando residents come to the city, typically for the beach, during the second half of the year, particularly in late summer. The city is most crowded during the summer months when the northerners leave and are replaced by locals, although there is a bump in the crowds during midwinter as well and Flagler Ave is popular with the infamous "Spring Breakers" when schools and universities close.
It's important to understand the geography of the town due to its complexity. A canal known as the Intracoastal Waterway separates the western (historic) and eastern (beach) parts of the city, with the Intracoastal Waterway meeting the ocean at Ponce Inlet at the northern boundary of New Smyrna Beach. There are two bridges that cross the Waterway, providing tourist access to the beaches.
The name of "New Smyrna Beach" comes from the name of the Greek city ("Smyrna"), which was the hometown of the town's founder's wife, known as "Izmir" in Turkish. The colony the Turnbull family founded was known as "Smyrnea" prior to its abandonment, but the name remained in use and was Anglicized by the time of the city's incorporation.
Locals sometimes abbreviate the name to "NSB." The term "New Smyrna Beach" can be used to refer to the parts of the town on either side of the Intracoastal Waterway, and not just for the beach itself.
New Smyrna Beach, prior to European settlement, belonged to the Timucua tribe which inhabited the region. One of the city's important sites, now known as the Turtle Mound, is a former landfill used by the tribe to discard shells over a period of hundreds of years roughly corresponding to the European Middle Ages. Following the collapse of the massive sand dunes that once existed south of Ponce Inlet, Turtle Mound became the most prominent peak and one of the highest points in the entirety of New Smyrna.
The Spanish are believed to have been the first Europeans to settle what is now New Smyrna Beach. They planted an orange grove on Bouchelle Island and likely also farmed on Chicken Island in the Intracoastal Waterway. However, the Spanish settlement of the region appears to have been inconsistent and did not result in a permanent settlement being established as took place in St. Augustine to the north.
During the 1760s, Robert Turnbull and a company of British businessmen formed a unique concept for a colony on the Atlantic Coast of the U.S. He claimed several miles of land on the east coast of what is now Volusia County, and imported indentured servants from around the Mediterranean to farm this new region he called "Smyrnea" after the Ottoman city. The agreement he formed with a diverse array of more than a thousand Romanos ("Greeks") and Menorcans required them to work as slaves on his colony for nine years, after which time their settlements would become independently owned homesteads. He demanded the new inhabitants of Smyrnea each build their homes a specified distance apart, farm on land adjacent to the Intracoastal Waterway, grow almost exclusively cash crops including indigo, and load the produce onto ships bound for Europe.
His scheme began successfully as the land appeared excellent for production of cash crops and the value of the imports compared well to the cost of importing food and other goods for the colony. However, a combination of factors led to the downfall of the colony. First, the settlers lacked agricultural knowledge, so failure to rotate crops and let land lie fallow led to a collapse in crop production after a few highly productive years. Second, the climate proved unreliable and droughts caused many of the existing cash crops to die. Third, the American War of Independence and associated regional political instability made trade with the colony difficult. Fourth, Turnbull refused to recognize his agreement to set the servants free after nine years. Turnbull and the colonists were enterprising and as a consequence were able to overcome the second problem through the construction of an extensive canal network, which still exists and remains dozens of miles in total length. However, the other problems led to a revolution when the colonists, who felt that the land was rightfully theirs, walked en masse to St. Augustine, an existing Spanish city to the north. The colony was largely abandoned, and new cities have been built over the land formerly developed by the colonists, which itself had been the size of multiple cities at its peak.
Colonists continue to settle the land in the years that followed. Two important structures were built that partially survived due to the use of coquina, a durable local stone, in their construction. One was a mansion, called the "Old Fort" by locals, facing the Intracoastal Waterway in what is now downtown New Smyrna. During the Civil War, the inhabitants, likely Confederates, turned the structure into a sort-of fort in order to defend against Union ships. Much of the history of this structure remains a mystery and only the foundation and surrounding fortifying towers remain well below the current elevation in the area. The structure built during the mid-19th century that survived better than the Old Fort was the Sugar Mill, a mill operated by slaves which was damaged during the Seminole Wars of the 1830s, lost to the encroaching forest, and since rediscovered and converted to a historic site.
Henry Flagler's rail network of the late 19th century brought Americanization and some prosperity to the small settlement, although it remained largely a rural backwater for several decades into the 20th century. It grew into two towns: the mainland town of "New Smyrna," west of the Intracoastal Waterway, a typical small Southern town, and the beach town of "Coronado Beach" east of the Waterway, which rapidly developed from a primitive hunting and farming area in the early 20th century to a prosperous tourist area as highways and bridges were built to connect the beach to the mainland. With the growth of Coronado, the two communities decided to merge into New Smyrna Beach, although many businesses and a church east of the waterway maintain the Coronado name.
The rise of air conditioning and widespread travel enabled New Smyrna Beach to evolve into first a tourist destination during the 20th century, and later a property boom during the late 2010s and early 2020s. The mainland part of the city saw its standard of living rise exponentially due to immigration from Northeastern and Midwestern states and development, redevelopment, and gentrification of the suburbs. As a consequence, during the COVID-19 pandemic, the city became increasingly crowded as those looking to escape restrictions in other parts of the state or country flocked to the city's beaches. Since the pandemic, the city has remained one of several bustling tourist cities along the east coast of the state.
New Smyrna Beach is about 20 miles (32 km) south of Daytona Beach along U.S. Highway 1. The towns of Edgewater and Oak Hill, and some unincorporated areas of Volusia County, such as Samsula, are considered to be part of the Greater New Smyrna Beach Area. Spruce Creek and adjacent waterways, along with a largely rural and forested region, to the north of New Smyrna Beach separate mainland NSB from Port Orange and Daytona Beach to the north.
New Smyrna Beach can be divided into three parts, which are almost like "districts". From east to west:
To the west of New Smyrna Beach, there are several miles of forest, and then farther west are the cities of DeLand and Orange City; these cities are the northern end of the Orlando metropolitan area.
New Smyrna Beach offers a humid, subtropical climate characterized by hot, humid summers and mild to cool winters. Winter temperatures very rarely drop below freezing, and summers are longer than those encountered in many temperate regions. During summer, temperatures frequently reach approximately in July and remain hot and humid into autumn, during which time forested areas should be avoided.
The time to avoid visiting the city and Central Florida in general, unless you plan to spend all your time near the milder temperatures of the ocean, is June through September, when the region's weather matches that of a wet tropical climate. Summers often feature mid-day thunderstorms and — occasionally — tropical cyclones, while winters and early spring vary between cold, dry spells from the rest of the North American continent and warm invasions from the south.
Due to the lack of mountain ranges — or anything even remotely like mountains, as the highest elevations in the city are the tops of trees, the terrain on golf courses, rooftops and bridges — in the vicinity of New Smyrna Beach, temperatures in NSB are unpredictable except in summer, when hot weather pushes north into the continent and prevents New Smyrna Beach from receiving cold weather. Wild temperature swings are common during winter — varying between and quite often — and during this season you will need to bring both summer and winter clothing. Although temperatures inland are more variable, cold winds on the beach can make the air feel especially unpleasant on a cold winter day.
Hurricanes, tropical cyclones which in the Atlantic Ocean reach peak winds from to , are a danger from June until November; but tropical cyclones are not restricted completely to those months. During hurricane season — the months when the ocean is warmest — the NOAA maintains a webpage dedicated to forecasting the paths of Atlantic hurricanes and tropical storms. Additionally, check other news reports for details on the expected path and dangers of a forecast tropical cyclone.
Although New Smyrna Beach has a Municipal Airport, it is chiefly used by private aircraft. Commercial flights to this area should be sought arriving to either Daytona Beach International Airport (IATA: DAB)(the closest); Orlando International Airport (IATA: MCO); or Jacksonville International Airport (IATA: JAX);.
A relatively easy option for getting to New Smyrna Beach is through the Daytona Beach Airport. If you fly with Delta, you can go from basically anywhere in the United States to Atlanta International Airport; from there, you can get flights directly to Daytona Beach International Airport. Daytona's airport is fairly small and generally not too busy, and it's pretty easy to get a rental car, etc. From the airport, it's a short drive to I-95, and I-95 will take you to the portion of New Smyrna Beach near Venetian Bay. To continue, see Get in#By car below.
& : New Smyrna Beach is easily accessed by car, as Interstate 95 passes through the western side of the city, and U.S. Highway 1 ("Old Dixie Highway") passes through the center of the city. There's also a Florida State Road (SR) 44, that goes from DeLand to NSB; I-95 intersects this freeway near a Walmart grocery store. If you are traveling into New Smyrna Beach on I-95, to your west is Venetian Bay and Samsula, while to your east is the rest of New Smyrna Beach. Take SR 44 east if you want to go to the beach; it leads through a few miles of suburban development before crossing two major bridges: the Martin Luther King, Jr. Bridge, which goes over US-1 and the railroad, and the South Causeway, which crosses the Intracoastal Waterway. Once you cross the Intracoastal Waterway and enter coastal NSB, SR 44 becomes Atlantic Ave (FL-A1A) and goes south to various resorts and ultimately Canaveral National Seashore.
Old Dixie Freeway: US-1 enters NSB in the mainland region, and it intersects Canal Street. However, it does not intersect Route 44. To get to Route 44 from US-1, go west on Canal Street. To reach Flagler Avenue from US-1, following Washington St, which becomes the North Causeway.
Atlantic Ave: You can't access NSB by driving either north or south along the coastal A1A route, in the north because the island ends and in the south because the road ends. You have to enter New Smyrna Beach via the mainland. Once you're on the mainland, then you can get to the coast quite easily (see "get around" section below).
Amtrak offers the Amtrak Auto Train service with its southern Terminus in Sanford, about 35 miles west of New Smyrna Beach. The Amtrak Auto Train carries passengers and automobiles between Sanford and Lorton, Virginia, effectively serving as a car-rail link to Florida from the Washington, D.C. Metro Area. You can easily drive your car into New Smyrna Beach after departing from the Auto Train.
Amtrak offers regular passenger service with the closest stop being near the city of DeLand. This stop is rather remote, some distance from NSB and is not the best option.
Votran is the local Volusia County bus service, which also provides a public transit connection to nearby Daytona Beach. The buses offer service in New Smyrna Beach, M-Sa 7AM-7PM. Votran is a cheap way to get around and is handicap accessible. The website provides maps and timetables. Buses travel to most sites and places of interest. Cost: $1.75 per trip, or $3.75 for a one-day bus pass (Valid for all routes).
Roads in New Smyrna Beach are excellent with few exceptions, and as a visitor you'll want a car to cover the distances around the city and the distance to its neighbors, especially if you're planning on traveling beyond the beach/coast area.
The main road that goes along the beach is A1A. From A1A, numbered streets (1st, 2nd, etc.) go towards the beach. Some have beach parking or lead to the beach itself, so you can drive along it and park on the beach. However, A1A comes to a dead end south of NSB. If you travel north along A1A through the coastal part of town (away from the dead end), the road eventually turns to the west and goes over a high bridge to the mainland. This route is called the South Causeway. There is another, smaller route to the north of the South Causeway, called the North Causeway. The North Causeway leads to the Flagler Avenue downtown area.
On the island, Peninsula Avenue connects the eastern end of the South Causeway with Flagler Avenue. This road continues north from Flagler Avenue toward the northern end of the island.
If you go west on South Causeway to the mainland, the road becomes Florida Route 44, which goes west, intersecting I-95, going past Venetian Bay and then continuing to DeLand. Airport Road goes north/south in Venetian Bay, and Tomoka Farms Road (Route 415) goes north/south to the west of Airport Road and leads toward Daytona Beach. Pioneer Trail goes in an east/west direction from the northern mainland area of New Smyrna Beach to Route 44, and intersects Tomoka Farms Road and Airport Road in between. However, while Pioneer Trail does cross I-95 on a bridge, there is no off-ramp from I-95 onto Pioneer Trail or vice versa.
From US-1, which goes north/south east of I-95, going west on Canal Street takes you to Route 44, while going east on Canal Street goes to Riverside Drive, which in turn leads north to the North Causeway that becomes Flagler Avenue. US-1 continues north to Port Orange and south into Edgewater.
Although the beach is the primary point of interest for tourists visiting New Smyrna Beach, there are several artistic and historic sites, particularly surrounding the Canal Street historic district.
Named one of "America's Top Small Cities for The Arts," New Smyrna is home to the Atlantic Center for the Arts, an artists-in-residence community and educational facility, the Harris House, the Little Theatre, The Hub and Arts on Douglas. Frequent arts shows featuring visual and performing arts take place throughout the year.
No structures, apart from the Old Fort, remain from the Turnbull settlement. That said, the history museum and affiliate organizations have uncovered artifacts from the site. Most of the ruins of the settlement remain buried underneath the current cities of New Smyrna Beach and Edgewater.
Sharks live in the Atlantic Ocean, and manatees and dolphins live in the Intracoastal Waterway, weather permitting; manatees cannot survive if the water becomes too cold. The Intracoastal is an excellent bird watching area as pelicans and various smaller birds inhabit the islands of the waterway. Inland, alligators are common in and around lakes throughout the New Smyrna area, in addition to armadillos. Details about the dangers posed by alligators and sharks can be found in the #Stay safe section of this article.
The rainforest contains dense forest, swamp, and open grassland beyond the pines and palm trees seen from local roads. The forest, however, can only be visited during the cooler winter weather, since insects take over during late spring and summer.
Above all, go to NSB for the beach. You can even park on the beach here — drive onto the beach at one of the approved entrances (such as the east end of Flagler Avenue 📍), drive along the designated traffic route that runs along the beach, and park. There are also places adjacent to the beach where you can park, such as a parking lot accessible from 27th Avenue. The 27th Avenue parking area is close to the beach road, so when you reach the traffic lights at 27th Avenue, you turn left onto that street before turning right if you want to enter the parking lot. There is another parking area south of Flagler Avenue, again adjacent to the beach.
The beach is long, with various parking areas that continue for miles. The reason for its width is its flatness, particularly in the north. The consequence is that the impact of tides upon the beach is exaggerated. There is a website which provides important information regarding the current status of tides.
Not all of the beach features the same topography. For example, Bethune Beach 📍, a "Blacks-only" beach prior to desegregation, more closely resembles the beach at Canaveral National Seashore than it does the northern part of New Smyrna's beach. To the north of this area the beach is sandy, while going south it is covered with a layer of shells and features a steeper slope.
In addition to the width of the beach itself, there is a sandbank that follows the shoreline. If the tide is out, these sandbanks become visible, but they're inconsistent, and do not enter the water where there is a break in the sandbank, as the opening could cause a current depending on the direction of the tide.
Be careful about going into the water — as stated at the beginning of the article, this is the shark attack capital of the world. The most dangerous coastline surrounds Ponce Inlet but shark attacks happen everywhere.
The beach is an excellent place to visit for viewing rocket launches. Rockets that have launched from Cape Canaveral can be viewed directly from the beach, as the shoreline from NSB to the cape is straight, on a clear day. First the bright light is seen soaring into the sky, before a few minutes later the faint rumble of the rockets can be heard. The time gap is due to time it takes for sound to travel several miles from the launch site to NSB.
Events in New Smyrna Beach include the weekly farmers' market, annual Art Fiesta, and a jazz festival held each spring.
Anglers at nearby Mosquito Lagoon have set international records with giant redfish catches. Deep-sea charters leave New Smyrna Beach daily, giving offshore fishers an easy way to wet a line in the beautiful Atlantic Ocean.
Many historical and cultural sites make New Smyrna Beach noteworthy. From the Turnbull and Sugar Mill Ruins, to the Eldora State House, the area is rich in history.
New Smyrna Speedway is in Samsula.
Since Flagler Avenue and Canal Street are in the cultural heart of NSB, they feature several quaint shops and cafes, and it's no surprise that the second oldest city in Florida is also home to many antique shopping pavilions. Neither Canal Street (the part of it east of US-1) nor Flagler Avenue are long roads, so while you'll find enough to suit your shopping and dining (see #eat) tastes, you also won't get exhausted from walking a long distance. The streets are not part of commercial districts, either, though, meaning that you will not find many downtown-oriented shops once you get outside the immediate vicinity of Canal and Flagler and onto other streets. In fact, both Flagler Avenue and Canal Street are surrounded for the most part by residential districts.
Along with the farmers' market held in mainland NSB northeast of Canal Street, similar events to farmers' markets are also held on Canal Street and Flagler Avenue on occasions.
As of 2020, the walking-distance region of Canal Street ends abruptly at the intersection with US-1, which is under construction. The busy US-1 — the Dixie Freeway is its name as of June 2020 — along with a railroad separate the eastern and western portions of Canal Street. However, there are some businesses, such as Aunties Soul Food Kitchen, along with residential — though less urbanized — development along the western part of Canal Street, which is part of Historic Westside New Smyrna Beach (though the historic buildings are not found along the road itself). However, businesses west of US-1 and the railroad, on the western portion of Canal Street, should be accessed by car and not walking due to the lack of a sidewalk along this part of the road.
At Canal Street's eastern end, east of the railroad and US-1, it passes small local stores, several restaurants, the Hub Art Gallery, and the civic center before it meets Riverside Drive; at the intersection of these two streets is a park, a curved wooden boardwalk for fishing, and a large events center. The eastern end of Canal Street is north of the South Causeway Bridge, which from the park can be clearly seen.
The convenience of Flagler Avenue, however, is perhaps its best attribute, as Flagler Avenue leads to the beach itself. This does bring traffic, however, and parking areas around Flagler can be crowded. One of the largest, on the southern side of the avenue towards the Methodist church, is not paved and therefore can easily become flooded after rainfall.
Shopping malls of the typical kind can, of course, be found in NSB. These include the Indian River Village Shopping Center, the New Smyrna Beach Regional Shopping Center 📍, the New Smyrna Shopping Plaza 📍, the Ocean Village Square Shopping Center 📍, and the Winn-Dixie Plaza 📍.
New Smyrna's restaurants generally feature either American cuisine or seafood, but there are exceptions, such as an Asian-cuisine restaurant on Flagler Avenue and a couple Italian restaurants. The region's low cost of living means that there are restaurants with low prices given the quantity and quality of the food they serve.
After a few months of closed or takeout-only dining during the first wave of the pandemic in spring 2020, most restaurants are returning to 100% capacity following socially distanced seating over the summer. Many diners do not wear masks, though they are recommended by the county when indoors and not eating or drinking. Business is somewhat down from early 2020; some restaurants that would normally be crowded are now merely busy.
Restaurants along the coast are concentrated along Flagler Avenue, the eastern end of the South Causeway, and along the A1A Road/beach area.
With the exception of the restaurant at the golf course, restaurants in Venetian Bay are gathered in a plaza area near Airport Road. This plaza area features a main shopping mall that includes apartments (accessed from a courtyard-like parking lot) and shops accessed from the outside. Around the plaza is a brick walkway, and at the far end from Airport Road is a park that goes from the clock tower to a lake.
There are a large number of hotels of various sorts along the beach, and they continue for miles along A1A south. These hotels typically face toward A1A or a small nearby beach road and face the other way toward the beach.
The types of places where you can stay on the beach alone are diverse, ranging from smaller buildings of two stories to large resorts with several stories.
As U.S. Route 1 is the main highway, don't expect much from hotels along this route.
As long as you use common sense and stay in either your hotel/resort or tourist-friendly streets such as Flagler Avenue late nights, crime is not a concern in NSB. Nowhere is too dangerous to be off-limits during the daytime.
However, the city is home to alligators and sharks. Therefore, stay near the shore if you want to go into the ocean, and do not enter the water in any estuary, brackish water, swamp, or lake. In the ocean, rip currents are an additional concern that you should avoid by staying close to the shoreline if you go in the water. Check weather forecasts in case a rip current/storm warning is in place.
Florida, thanks to its wet climate, is home to many lakes and waterways. Explore these in a boat, not by swimming, since you do not want to risk being killed by an alligator in the murky waters of these lakes and rivers. Although people sometimes view the dangers of alligators in extremes, either as harmless or as a threat to people, the best stance to take is to stay at least a few feet from any bodies of water and always watch for signs of an alligator (usually the snout is the first feature of an alligator to be exposed). Despite what is indicated by some news outlets, alligators do not invade areas with human presence without a good reason. If alligators pose a threat at any time, it is almost definitely because you are not taking proper precautions in the areas where alligators live. Although fishermen and golfers often go dangerously close to the water, it's no excuse for responsible tourists to do so.
See also: Culture shock
People frequently express their political opinions in NSB through signs and posters, often — though not always — conservative. There is a Republican Party headquarters on Route 44 that does little to hide either its existence or its political persuasion, but political differences in the city are tolerated and there are no reasons for travelers to be concerned by these expressions of political opinion.
Seven digit dialing is in effect for local calls in the New Smyrna Beach area, and the local area code is 386.
There are about 20 radio stations in Volusia County.
There is an urgent care center just off Route 44 (mainland) and another one in Edgewater along US-1.
There are churches in the area of various denominations; particularly notable are the First Baptist Church 📍 north of Canal Street, along with one Catholic church each on the island and the mainland. The First Baptist Church emphasizes its family-friendly nature, and is among the largest of the numerous local churches. Space Coast Baptist Church is in the Samsula area.
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