Positano - Italian commune

Positano is a small picturesque town with splendid coastal views, on the famous Amalfi Coast in Campania, Italy. The town itself is perched on an enclave on the face of a hill and winds down towards the waters of the Amalfi Coast. Naturally beautiful, Positano attracts thousands of visitors every year. For most of the year, the town is full of people, but if you are planning to visit Positano, it would be best to schedule your trip during late-spring or early-autumn, when the weather is beautifully warm and the crowds more manageable than in the summer months. However, all the months from March to November are still great times to visit, and thanks to its mild mediterranean climate, the winter months aren’t bad either.

Understand

Climate

Get in

By bus

If you're taking the bus from Sorrento, sit next to a window on the right hand side for the best views. From Salerno sit on the left side for the best views and excellent photo opportunities. The bus drops you at the top of the town. You must walk, taxi, or bus to your hotel. During the peak season (starting in late April) this bus can get very crowded. You may have to wait a couple hours and fight your way onto a bus to get back.

• SITA Coach, +39 89 405 145. Buses along the coast from Sorrento via Positano to Amalfi 2-3 times per hour. Choose the region "Campania" from the website to find the timetables. Tickets cannot be purchased on board but are very easy to find in bars, newsagents, etc. The SITA buses are the least expensive option, but can be slow, and are often very crowded. A day pass that includes Ravello is available for €10-12. 2019-10-17
• City Sightseeing. Apr-Oct only. Hourly buses from Sorrento to Positano (40 min) and then to Amalfi (50 min more); €10 one stop, €15 two stops, €6 for the return ticket. Buy tickets from agents at the bus stops. 2019-10-17

By car

• Take the main road off of the Autostrada from Sorrento but make sure to have a reservation at a car park as it is very difficult to find parking.

By ferry

• Travelmar ferries, +39 89 87 27 70. Amalfi—Positano, 4 times a day, 15 min, adult €8, child €6.50. 2019-10-17
• Aliscafo Hydrofoil, +39 82 807 1812. Sorrento-Positano 8 per day. 2019-10-17
• Take a ferry from Naples. Slightly more expensive than the bus but you'll save an hour on the road and get some truly amazing views of the cliffs on the Amalfi coast.
• Read about the unified public transport ticket Campania Unico.

Get around

By bus

• A local bus goes down and - especially - up the hill following the meandering always congested road. On that bus no Unico Campania tickets are valid! The charge to ride the orange bus around Positano is €1.20 if you purchase your ticket from a local shop, or €1.60 if you purchase directly from the bus driver.

On foot

• There are loads of little stairs leading from everywhere to everywhere straight. Alternatively there is the one road meandering down to the harbour.

See

• Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta. This is one of the most famous attractions in Positano. The old church, boasting a majestic dome, was built in the 1920s and is the location of the famous 13th-century Byzantine icon, the Madonna di Positano.
• The place itself.
• The harbor.
• The shops near the harbor.

Do

• Ferry trip to Paestum or Ischia and Capri (including the Blue Grotto) during summer months.
• Or if you are after luxury, charter a private motor-boat with Charter La Dolce Vita and you can design your own itinerary with the captain. Suggested ideas include departing Positano for a full-day tour to Capri, circling island with the grottos or out to Ischia, or along the Sorrento Coast or just cruising along the Amalfi Coast.
• Soak up the beauty on either of Positano's two beaches: Fornillo, the smaller, more secluded beach is accessible either by a set of stairs from the grotto above or via a path from Spiaggia Grande. Fornillo has a more laid back atmosphere with four beach bars lining the shore and no ferry traffic. Spiaggia Grande, the main beach and ferry port, is the hub of activity in Positano. Don't miss it, but don't forget there is much more to Positano.
• Water taxi & private excursions. Catch the splendour of one of Italy's World Heritage from a privileged point of observation and avoid your holiday being spoilt by local traffic.

Buy

• Lemons, extra large.
• All sorts of lemon products.
• Colorfully painted tiles.
• Colorful silks.
• Limoncello (lemon liqueur produced mainly in the region around the Gulf of Naples and the coast of Amalfi and Islands of Ischia and Capri)

Eat

• Grottino Azzurro, Via Guglielmo Marconi 158, +39 089 811065. A little nice local restaurant offering a good selection of high quality local dishes, located close to the first bus stop, Chiesa Nuova, coming from Sorrento.
• Da Costantino, Via Corvo, +39 089 875738. At the very top of Positano, offers a spectacular view of the entire town and the sea. The pizza is tasty and other specialties include cheese crepes, gnocchi and bolognese.
• Da Vincenzo, Viale Pasitea 172, +39 089 875128. With bells hanging throughout the restaurant, maintains a high quality of service and unique style. Chefs offer cuisine ranging from grilled vegetable antipasti to fresh fish. Go hungry, as you will not want to pass up on appetizers, a main course and a dessert. Marcella makes homemade desserts that are legendary in her family. Expect to pay a little more for a full dinner, but it is well worth it. Spaghetti alla vongole is a speciality.
• Next2, Viale Pasitea, +39 089 8123516. Locals flock here on weekends so that midnight on a Saturday feels like a large table-hopping family reunion at which outsiders are welcome. Highlights include supremely tender "Italian sushi," the fish and vegetable tempura, and traditional favorites like carpaccio di orata with pink pepper and mint and smoked tuna with zucchini and mozzarella. Rare local bottles fill out the wine list, and the graciously unobtrusive, unusually prompt service is in itself a find. Admire the slick all-white dining room and bar from a distance; the vine-covered courtyard, lit by bucket candles on every table and alive with happy chatter, is the place to be. entrées, $9–$17
• Al Palazzo, Via dei Mulini 23, +39 089 875 177, info@palazzomurat.it. Outdoor restaurant in a torchlit courtyard featuring beautiful views of the surrounding cliffs. The atmosphere is quiet and relaxed, tables are seated a respectable distance from each other, the staff is highly professional, and the food is delicious -- well worth the expense compared to other restaurants in the area that are more heavily frequented by tourists. The wine list can get very expensive very fast, but offers some very enjoyable primitivi in the 25 euro range.

Mediterraneo and Saraceno D'Oro also offer local specialties for the budget conscious. Located next to each other, near the Grotto of Fornillo, Mediterraneo serves seafood and pasta and Saraceno D'Oro specializes in pizza.

• Ristorante La Pergola (Buca di Bacco), Via del Brigantino 35/37 (Direct on the Sand), +39 089 812076. £20 2017-05-08
• La Serra, Via G. Marconi (inside the 5-star Hotel Le Agavi), +39 089 87 57 33, info@leagavi.it. The menu includes seafood specialities and Mediterranean recipes with innovative ingredients. Its chef, Luigi Tramontano, was recognized with a Michelin Star 2018. 2019-01-17

Drink

• Next2. Is one of Positano's newer additions is a relaxed wine and cocktail bar near the Grotto of Fornillo. During summer months they host DJs several times a week and this spot is a favorite of those looking to have a drink and relax without bumping and grinding with sweaty party-goers.
• Music on the Rocks is the dance club in Positano. Check the schedule for the various DJs and theme nights. This club is located on the far side of Spiaggia Grande and has fantastic terraces and views of the sea. The crowd in the club varies from seasoned locals to international celebrities. Drinks are creative and strong but the price reflects both.

Sleep

• California Hotel Positano, Via C. Colombo 141, +39 089 875 382. A three star hotel in an 18th-century building that belonged to a Neapolitan noble family, with 15 guestrooms divided into 14 doubles and one quadruple with 2 bedrooms and 2 baths.
• Casa Celeste, Via Fornillo, 10, +39 089 875363. Family-run bed and breakfast. Nonna Celeste makes breakfast every morning. Casa Celeste also owns a beach bar, Da Ferdinando, on Fornillo Beach.
• Conca d'oro Hotel, +39 089 875111. Opened in 1949 from an idea of Giovanni Cappiello. An ancient villa in the middle of a beautiful garden full of orange and lemon trees surround the hotel. The Villa Giacinta is operated by this hotel, and is a beautiful (if expensive) option for traveling groups. The villa contains 4 bedrooms (3 doubles and one twin-sized), ~4 bathrooms, a large foyer and living room, and a comfortably-sized kitchen (great for cutting down on expenses in this expensive tourist town). Additionally, there are tiled porches at the front entrance and off the master bedroom and small balconies with great views in some of the other bedrooms. The Villa is cleaned daily, and the cleaning staff are friendly, nice, and deliver fresh figs to the kitchen in summer! Be warned, though, that both the villa and the Hotel Conca D'Oro are a 15-minute very steep walk to and from the beach/port, and parties with elderly visitors or children may be better off near the beach.
• Hotel Casa Albertina Positano, Via Tavolozza, +39 089 875143. Three-star hotel with 20 bedrooms including also a family room that can host 2 children and 2 adults. Besides the facilities expected from a three star hotel of the Amalfi Coast, such as TV, private bath, mini bar, terrace and telephone, some rooms also have a hydro massage bathtub. The rates start from €170 for a double standard.
• Hotel Poseidon - Positano, Via Pasitea 148, +39 089 81 11 11, info@hotelposeidonpositano.it. The Hotel Poseidon is perched on a mountainside overlooking the sea and decorated with antique furniture.
• Hotel Royal Prisco Positano, Via Pasitea, 102, +39 089 8122022. Three star hotel, offering Standard and Deluxe bedrooms, and Junior and Royal Suites. The Deluxe are placed on the second floor and are a little bit larger than the Standards, but both boast a balcony with a sea view. In comparison to the Junior Suites, the Royals present a bigger terrace and also a Jacuzzi in the bathroom.
• Hotel Savoia Positano, Via C. Colombo, 73, +39 089 875003. Three-star with standard and deluxe bedrooms with terrace, private bathroom, satellite TV and air conditioning.
• Hostel Brikette. It is apparently the only low-budget hostel in town. You would want to book well in advance since it gets booked out by American youngsters. It is clean, has a lovely breakfast, and terraces where you can admire the view in the evening and drink some red wine. The girls at the check-in speak an almost too native American English, so don't be afraid to call. You will be kicked out from 11:00-14:30 for cleaning, but you want to be somewhere else admiring the area during this period, anyway.
• Posa Posa Hotel, Via Pasitea 165. 4-star historic hotel set in the mountain-side descending to the sea.
• Le Sirenuse. This is a particularly famous place to stay and was featured in the 1994 movie Only You starring Marisa Tomei and Robert Downey Jr. The location seems perfect for walking and exercise. There are only stairs up to Villa Rosa, but a porter will be happy to run back and forth to bring your luggage to your room. They can find a parking spot for your car. The staff is very friendly and helpful (and very strong). It takes 15-20 minutes to walk to the beach, and along the way are the shops and restaurants. It's all steps and stairs to the beach so bring appropriate shoes. (The best way to enjoy Le Sirenuse might be on the way back from the beach. Stop in and have a glass of spumante in the pool lounge area.) €1000-1600
• Hotel Villa delle Palme, Via Pasitea 252, +39 089875162. Rooms with TV, air-conditioning/heater and private bathroom with shower; and each room leads to a terrace or balcony overlooking a nice view of Positano. Free breakfast room service. Free Wi-Fi access in the lobby. Shared fridge on the first floor. No elevator.
• Villa Nettuno. It is clean and low-budget, with spectacular views of the sea. A brother and sister run the place, and if you're lucky, you'll even meet their mother. The entrance is hard to find, but once you see the little sign, you'll climb up several flights of narrow stairs. If you go in spring, you'll take in the intoxicating aroma of wisteria along with the unforgettable views. The place gets a little spooky late at night, but that only adds to its charm.
• Villa Gabrisa Positano, Via Pasitea, 219/227, +39 089 811498. An ancient holiday home dedicated to the Rispoli family, it is now a four-star hotel with great sea views. It has its own restaurant Da Gabrisa, which serves Campanian food and wine.
• Villa Rosa. Perched on a steep hillside, all of the 150-year-old villa's rooms overlook the beach. Rooms have private terraces (filled with flowers) overlooking the sea. For best views, make sure to get a room on the second or third floor.
• Nino's B&B. Small B&B in the village of Nocelle, perched on the mountainside a pleasant 20-minute drive or bus journey above the coastal resort of Positano. Apart from Italian, the host speaks English and German.
• Villa dei Fisici, Via Santa Croce 12/14, +39 089 812 32 97, info@villadeifisici.com. Wonderful 18th-century historical home with an area of 750 m² on three floors, all of which overlook the sea and Positano bay. This property has a swimming pool, telephone, fax, wi-fi, independent heating, air conditioning, high-quality linen, DVD player, stereo, satellite TV, ice-maker, washing machine, dryer, hair-dryer, dish-washer, freezer and fully-equipped professional kitchen.
• Villa Giusi Positano, Vicolo Vito Savino, 15, +39 06 64520553. Guest house with five bedrooms divided into singles, doubles and twins, all with private bath and sea view, some also with fireplace. Terrace, bar, dining room and kitchen are the common areas. The rooms can be booked for a week and also for a month.
• Villa Fiorentino, Via Guglielmo Marconi, 150, +39 089 812 32 97, info@villafiorentino.com. Perched on a chalky cliff overlooking the sea, built in the typical "style of Positano"; consists of six apartments, surrounded by Mediterranean maquis. Extending to four level floors and surrounded by large terrace-solariums, the apartments can host 25 guests.
• Hotel Royal, Via Pasitea, 344, 40.6309°, 14.4825°, +39 089 875000. 2017-06-07
• Hotel Maricanto, Via Cristoforo Colombo, 50, +39 089 875130. Great infinity pool. 2017-06-26
• Hotel Palazzo Murat (Luxury hotel in the city center of Positano), Via dei Mulini, 23, +39 089 87 51 77, info@palazzomurat.it. Luxury resort is in a historical residence. Features a private botanical garden with a panoramic pool, gourmet restaurant Al Palazzo and a selection of rooms and suites with sea and city view. 2018-12-19
• Hotel Le Agavi, Via G. Marconi - 84017, +39 089 875733, info@leagavi.it. A view of the entire bay, swimming pool with solarium, three bars, a gourmet restaurant and private beach. 2019-05-17

Go next

• Take the local bus to Montepertuso which leaves from the church. From there you need to find a small steep path uphill. The mountains along the Amalfi Coast have a hidden and unknown network of public footpaths and long stairs criss crossing the lemon terraces, from Montepertuso you will be able to walk to Santa Maria, a small church high up, and back down to Positano. This will give you stunning views down the coast featuring Capri, Positano and the sea. In springtime all sorts of rare spices and flowers grow between cypress trees. Make sure you get a map of some kind showing the footpaths since you WILL get lost without.

Julian Tippett has published a nice walking guide book for the area in the "Sunflower Countryside Guides" series.

• Visit nearby Herculaneum and Pompeii.
• Climb the Mount Vesuvius
• Visit Paestum
• Visit Ravello
• Visit Naples
• Visit Capri
• Visit Ischia an island outside Naples.