Skye (Gaelic: An t-Eilean Sgitheanach) is the largest and most northerly of the Inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland, linked to the mainland by a toll-free bridge. It's a rugged mountainous island with spectacular scenery. Portree is the main settlement, with a tourist information centre, and the main concentration of accommodation.
Gaelic is spoken by 30% of the population, and there's a college teaching entirely in Gaelic in Sleat. On road signs in Skye, the Gaelic version of the place name is given first followed by the English version.
Sleat is the gently rolling southern part of Skye where visitors first arrive. Most use the toll-free road bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh.
Minginish is the central body of Skye, grouped around the dramatic Cuillin mountain range.
Portree π is the main village of Skye, and has the most accommodation and other amenities. North of here, the island breaks into three stubby fingers.
Trotternish is the largest and most frequently visited peninsula, having the stunning rock formations of the Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing. Buses follow A855 round the coast, with plenty of options for walking and climbing.
Waternish in the middle has some pretty villages, especially Stein π, but is overlooked by most tourists. See also the ruins of Trumpan church.
Duirnish is the western peninsula.
Nearby islands:
: "Speed bonnie boat, like a bird on the wing, Onward! the sailors cry," : "Carry the lad that's born to be king, over the sea to Skye."
Flora Macdonald of Sleat (1722β1790) happened to be on South Uist when the Prince and a few comrades pitched up there - a dangerous dead-end for them. She was no Jacobite sympathiser but took pity, and arranged passage for him to Skye disguised as her maid, if flouncing about like Liberace playing The Widow Twanky counts as "disguise". They landed near Kingsburgh, Portree on Skye on 29 June 1746, where he was briskly told to change out of that damn-fool costume. Next morning the Prince was spirited away to the island of Raasay, and never saw Macdonald again. He then doubled back to Portree, tramping across Skye to Elgol where on 4 July he was conveyed to Mallaig on the mainland.
All this was a symptom of the remoteness, poverty and isolation of Skye and much of the western Highlands. The terrain was rugged, the soil was poor and boggy, fishing was hazardous, and there were few minerals. The population drifted away to Glasgow and beyond, and in the 19th century came a series of evictions as the landowning chiefs realised that sheep paid better than subsistence farm rentals. But also in that century came a turnaround in perceptions, as stark mountains were re-defined as scenery, and rain-lashed heaths as romantic vistas where the Prince hid out and was never betrayed. It also became not only safe but fashionable to wear the re-invented tartan and sing Jacobite songs, without being considered seditious. "The Skye Boat Song" was first published in 1848 - the folk tune may have been traditional but the words were modern English. It inverted the geography, having the Prince flee from mainland Scotland to Skye, whereas his journey was from the Outer Hebrides to Skye closer inshore thence to the mainland. And of all the places he fled through, the song has indelibly linked him to Skye, two brief transits but easier to work into a song lyric than, say, Borrodale.
Tourism on Skye was boosted at the end of the 19th century when railways reached Mallaig and Kyle of Lochalsh. In the 20th century the island roads were improved, mountaineering on The Cuillin became popular, and the ferries were converted to ro-ro to carry more vehicles. The game-changer in 1995 was the completion of the Skye Bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh, though the operator charged hefty tolls until being bought off in 2004. Tourist infrastructure has lagged behind the growth in visitors - don't come here in summer without booked accommodation. Skye is the most touristy of the Hebrides, yet if you come offpeak, or turn down a back lane (to Glenbrittle, say) it still feels miles from the busy modern world.
Skye has no air service. The nearest mainland airports are Inverness, Glasgow and Edinburgh.
The main road to Skye is the A87, which branches off A82 (Fort William-Inverness road) at Invergarry, to run west via Shiel Bridge (for Glenelg), Dornie (for Eilean Donan Castle) and Kyle of Lochalsh, crossing the toll-free bridge to Kyleakin. It follows Skye's north coast via Broadford and Portree to Uig.
Or take the A830 "Road to the Isles" from Fort William via Glenfinnan to Mallaig and thence by ferry to Armadale as described below.
Scottish Citylink Bus 914 / 915 runs twice daily between Glasgow and Skye. The route north is from Buchanan St Station via Glasgow Airport, Dumbarton, Loch Lomond west bank, Crianlarich, Glencoe, Fort William, Invergarry and Kyle of Lochalsh. The route continues across Skye via Broadford, Sligachan and Portree to Uig, about 7 hours in total.
Bus 916 / 917 runs twice daily from Inverness via Loch Ness and Kyle, then via Broadford and sligachan to Portree; 3 hours 30 mins.
Stagecoach Highlands Bus 55 runs three times M-F from Kyle to Kyleakin and Broadford, with two continuing to Torrin and Elgol.
Bus 51 / 52 runs from the ferry pier at Armadale to Broadford and Portree several times a day.
There is no railway on Skye. The two mainland stations with connections to Skye are Kyle of Lochalsh π and Mallaig π. From London they're both about 11 hours by daytime train, 13 hours via sleeper. Kyle has trains from Inverness, and is the better linked, with buses onward to Skye. Mallaig has trains from Fort William and Glasgow; from Mallaig you take the ferry to Armadale as described below, then a bus.
Calmac car ferries ply between Mallaig on the mainland and Armadale near the south tip of Skye. They take 45 mins and sail daily, every hour or two Apr-Oct but only a couple per day Nov-March. Fares in 2022 are about Β£10 per car plus Β£3 per person.
The tiny Skye Ferry runs April to mid-October between Glenelg on the mainland and Kylerhea, which is up a minor road south of Kyleakin. It's an odd contraption, with a swivelling deck, and its capacity is only six cars per trip or 18 per hour; there's no bus from Kylerhea. This ferry is best regarded as a tourist sight, not a practical transport option.
From Uig in the north of Skye, Calmac car ferries sail to Tarbert on Harris and Lochmaddy on North Uist - buses from Glasgow traverse Skye to connect. (No ferries 16 Jan - 13 March 2023 as Uig harbour is closed for construction works.) Those Outer Hebrides or Western Isles can be reached by other routes from the mainland (chiefly Ullapool to Stornoway, and Mallaig to Lochboisdale); so you could then sail to Uig and reach Skye by that roundabout route.
There's also a ferry between Sconser on Skye and Raasay. There's no other transport to that island so you have to double back.
Buses run along the main highways between the bridge, Armadale, Portree and Uig as above.
Stagecoach Highlands Bus 57 circles between Portree, Uig and the Trotternish peninsula. Bus 57C is clockwise, Portree > Uig > Flodigarry > Staffin > Portree and 57A is anti-clockwise the reverse route. It runs every 3 hours or so M-F plus Sa in summer.
Bus 56 runs 3-5 times M-Sa from Portree to Dunvegan, with a couple continuing west to Colbost.
And that's about it. Individual village pages describe some other buses but they're of limited use to the visitor. Many are in effect school buses: anyone can use them, but they only make one run early morning then in late afternoon, M-F in termtime, so they don't run in the summer holidays. A good example is Bus 154 from Portree to Carbost.
The main road A87 and the roads to Armadale A851 and Dunvegan A850 are undivided highways, in good condition though winding and very busy in summer, so overtaking is hazardous. Almost everything else is a single lane with passing places, although the Trotternish road A855 section between The Storr and Staffin has now been widened. Always have in mind whether your nearest passing place is ahead or behind you, and be prepared to respond to other vehicles accordingly. When using a passing place keep left: if the space is on your left pull in, if it's to your right stop adjacent on the left and the oncoming driver will swerve around in the passing place. Out of season the roads are very quiet, but some of those sheep ought to be made to attend road safety awareness training.
Car hire is available in Mallaig and Kyle of Lochalsh on the mainland, and Armadale and Portree on Skye. Book well ahead as their fleets are small. If you fly into, say, Glasgow, you'll do better to hire from the airport.
Many of the roads in Skye are cyclable, although traffic can be a problem in late summer. If you're cycling, make sure you have good raingear; Skye is wet even by the drizzly standards of Scotland. Bikes travel free on the ferry from Mallaig, and the ride from Armadale north to the bridge is pleasant.
Hitching is never 100% safe, but residents of Skye are generally very open to giving lifts in remoter areas (especially if you've missed the last bus of the day or it's raining).
Skye has its own local radio station which is worth a listen to find out about local events. 102.7MHz, 106.2MHz (Portree/Staffin) & 107.2MHz (Sleat) depending on where you are and it is also available online.
Fill the car tank before you leave central Scotland, and drive cannily. You'll do a lot of mileage just to get here, with not many refueling options en route. The filling station at the south end of Portree has fuel for only a few pence more than city supermarket prices.
Most of the larger villages on Skye have some kind of small shop, but don't expect a broad range or supermarket prices. Portree has the biggest selection, including two Co-op supermarkets. Broadford has a few shops including a small Co-op.
Woollen goods are a noted product of Skye. Look for them at the gift shop at the Clan Donald Centre at Armadale Castle or in Portree.
The main tourist season is from Easter through September. The bridge has made Skye very accessible and popular, outstripping the supply of accommodation, and some hotels are block-booked in summer by coach excursions. So you need to book well ahead, and donβt try to visit in July / August without a booking. It's got so bad, at the height of summer the police have to turn people back on the A87 if they haven't booked anything. Off-season is quieter and some places hibernate, but it's never as closed and boarded up elsewhere in the Hebrides.
Camping is popular with visitors to Skye, but it's even more popular with the midges, who greet each new tent with hungry clouds. You might do better in pods where you can shut them out. Camp sites are dotted around the island, some in very picturesque settings. You can probably wild-camp in a tent most places, but camper vans and caravans attempting to park by the road overnight will be moved on by the police. There are hostels in Broadford, Glenbrittle, Portree and elsewhere.
The main concentration of hotels and B&Bs is in Portree. They're pricey! Self-catering cottages are simply everywhere, some very out-of-the-way; they usually book by the week.