Ubon Ratchathani (อุบลราชธานี) is a city in Isaan, Thailand, in a province of the same name. Often referred to as simply Ubon (อุบล), not to be confused with "Udon" to the north. Ubon lies 582 km from Bangkok and has Thailand's 13th largest city population.
Ubon was founded on the northern bank of the Mun River by a group of Lao princes fleeing Vientiane in the late 1700s. They applied for King Taksin's protection, duly granted in 1779 along with the city's new name, meaning "Royal City of the Lotus". Modern-day Ubon was a U.S. air base during the Vietnam War and grew rapidly at the time, but little has happened since then. The town of Warin Chamrap, on the south bank of the river, is effectively a suburb of Ubon these days.
The sleepy Ubon office of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (264/1 Khuan Thani Rd) is worth a visit to pick up useful English maps of the town and nearby provinces. Basic English spoken. Open daily 08:30-16:30.
Ubon Ratchathani International Airport (IATA: UBP), 15.251278°, 104.870231°. It serves only flights from Bangkok most of the year. Thai Airways has two daily non-stop flights between Bangkok (BKK) and Ubon and return. Nok Air has three daily non-stop flights between Bangkok Don Mueang Airport (DMK) and Ubon and return. Air Asia has two daily non-stop flights between Bangkok (DMK) and Ubon and return year-round. Air Asia operates 3 weekly flights between Phuket and Ubon from Oct-Mar and between Chiang Mai and Ubon from Nov- Mar. Flight time is 50 minutes in an Airbus A320 or Boeing 737 aircraft.
The airport is at the northern edge of the city almost within walking distance, but accommodation is scattered around Ubon, so better not to consider walking. Much better to go to one of the two limousine (taxi) counters in the airport arrivals hall and purchase for 100 baht a taxi coupon that will take you to almost any point in the city. Limousine (taxi) rates in Ubon are extremely cheap by Western standards and lower than those in Bangkok. Set prices have been established to most destinations in and around Ubon. A taxi from Ubon to Chong Mek costs 1,000 baht for the 90-km, one way trip and a taxi from Ubon to Mukdahan costs 2,000-2,500 baht (depending on the vehicle type) to travel a one-way distance of 192 km. The driver does not charge for the return trip as in some Western countries. There are no taxi meters and the fare must normally be purchased from one of the two taxi counters at the airport arrivals desk.
If you prefer not to take a fixed price taxi, you can always walk the 200 m beyond the general airport parking area to haggle with the waiting tuk-tuk drivers, but chances are that your trip will end up costing you more.
Buses to Bangkok take 10 hours (due to stops) and most arrive near Mo Chit BTS station, with prices from about 450 baht and up. There are several different companies, offering morning and night buses, that all have ticket windows at the main Ubon bus terminal north of town. Some have routes and timetables posted on the windows in English, some don't (there might be English-speaking station staff there who can help you). The Nakhonchai Air private bus company has frequent, well-maintained buses that travel the route and also leave from the Ubon bus terminal, but arrive at their own private terminal in Bangkok, near the main Mo Chit terminal (about 500-900 baht depending on class).
Red songthaews leave directly from the Ubon bus terminal and go downtown for 10 baht. The truck stops at the yellow and white curb between the taxi stands and the exit to the parking lot, with the last departure at 19:00. Ubon is less than 100 km from the Lao border at Chong Mek/Pakse. A regular 'international' bus service now operates twice daily direct from Ubon bus station (near the "Big C" shopping complex) to Pakse in Laos, and caters for travelers who wish to obtain a Lao visa on arrival (it waits for all passengers to complete immigration and visa formalities before continuing to Pakse). The fare is 200 baht if purchasing tickets to Pakse at Ubon bus terminal. Agents selling tickets in Pakse charge 90,000 kip for the other direction (about 50% more), though this includes pickup from downtown Pakse. The price may be cheaper if you purchase directly at the bus station on Pakse's eastern outskirts.
Daily trains connect with Bangkok and stop at all the southern Isaan provincial capitals (Si Saket, Surin, Buriram, and Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat)). The station is to the south of the city on the opposite side of the Mun River in Warin Chamrap. Buses 2 and 6 connect to the center.
Rail services are operated by State Railway of Thailand (SRT). Express and Special Express trains have first and second class sleeping and dining cars. First class sleeping cars are new, fully air-conditioned and consist exclusively of 2-berth-compartments. On Rapid trains, two classes ('2' and '3') are provided. '2' class is comfortable and modern, '3' class is extremely economical, but still acceptable. Check the State Railway of Thailand website (or Google Maps directions) for the current schedule. A third-class ticket to Bangkok costs 205 baht, and a second class seat is between 300 and 400 baht, and the journey takes 10-12 hours.
Train No. | Departure | Arrival | Type |
---|---|---|---|
21 | 05:45 | 14:00 | Special Express |
135 | 06:40 | 18:00 | Rapid |
71 | 10:05 | 19:50 | Express |
145 | 15:20 | 03:35 | Rapid |
139 | 18:55 | 06:15 | Rapid |
23 | 20:30 | 06:35 | Special Express |
67 | 21:30 | 07:50 | Express |
141 | 22:45 | 10:20 | Rapid |
Train No. | Departure | Arrival | Type |
---|---|---|---|
72 | 05:40 | 14:55 | Express |
136 | 07:00 | 18:40 | Rapid |
146 | 09:30 | 21:10 | Rapid |
22 | 14:50 | 22:50 | Special Express |
142 | 17:35 | 05:00 | Rapid |
24 | 19:00 | 05:15 | Special Express |
68 | 19:30 | 06:40 | Express |
140 | 20:30 | 07:20 | Rapid |
A bus/songthaew network with 13 fixed routes operates around the city. Most routes are numbered and colour-coded. Look for trucks with big numbers on the front. Many of the songthaews are also painted in the same color as their route is colored on the map. You can pick up a map at the Ubon TAT office. Rides cost 10 baht (December 2019).
Songthaew Route | Common Destinations |
---|---|
ม (Maw) | Main bus terminal via Ring Road and Chaengsanit Road (psychiatric hospital), clock tower roundabout (Ratchaphat University, SK Mall), Thanon Phalochai, Thano Uparat (Thung Si Mueang), Warin market, to Ubon Ratchathani University. |
1 | Ban Nong Kae in Tambon Chaeramae, via Yasothon Road, then up Ring Road to main bus terminal, back down Ring Road, Thanon Chanegsanit, clocktower roundabout (Ratchaphat University, SK Mall), Thanon Sapphasit, Thung Si Mueang, Sapphasit hospital, Ubonrak Thonburi Hospital, Talat Yai (central market), Warin market, to Ubon Ratchathani University. |
2 | Rear of Si Pathum Phitthayakhan school, via Thanon Klang-awut, Thanon Chayangkun, main bus terminal, Thanon Chayangkun (Big C, Ratchawet Hospital, NE Polytechnic college, Tesco-Lotus), Thanon Ratchathani, clocktower roundabout (Ratchaphat University, SK Mall), Thanon Chaengsanit, Thanon Sapphasit, Thanon Phitchitrangsan, main post office, Thung Si Mueang, Warin market, Ubon Ratchathani Railway Station. |
3 | Ratchathani Technology Voctational college via Thanon Ubon 2, Thanon Chayangkun, main bus terminal, Thanon Chayangkun (Big C, Ratchawet Hospital, NE Polytechnic college, Tesco-Lotus, Robinsons), Thanon Sapphisit (Sapphasit Prasong Hospital), Thanon Luang, main post office, Talat Yai (central market), Warin market, Kantharalak road, Big C, Ban Ko. |
6 | Benchama Maharacha School (Thanon Sapphasit) via Thung Si Mueang and Warin market to Khai Sapphasitthi Prasong Hospital. |
7 | Wat Pakittiyansophon in Ban Dong Saen Suk, via Ban Nikhom Phattana, Thanon Ubon-Trakan, Thanon Sapphisit (Sapphasit Prasong hospital), Thanon Suriyat, Thanon Chayangkun (Robinsons), Thanon Ratchathani, clocktower roundabout (Ratchaphat University, SK Mall), Thanon Chaengsanit, Thanon Sapphasit, Thanon Chayangkun, Thung Si Mueang, Ubon city hall, Thung si Mueang, Warin market, Thanon Sisaket, to the Tambon Kham Nam Saep municipal offices. |
8 | Circular route, running from 41 km marker on Ring Road, via Ring Road (main bus terminal, Big C), Thanon Chonlaprathan-Thabo, Thanon Nikhomsaiklang, provincial offices, Talat Yai (central market), main post office, Thanon Luang, Thanon Sapphasit (Sapphasit Prasong hospital), Thanon Ubon-Trakan, (on-demand deviation to Ban Na Mueang), Ring Road, Thanon Ubon Trakan, Highway 4009 (50 Pansa Mahavajiralongkorn Hospital) to Ratchapachanukhro 32 school. |
9 | Warin market via Thanon Sisaket in Tambon Kham Nam Saep to Ban Khu Duea in Tambon Chaeramae |
10 | Regional Cancer Centre via Thanon Khlang-awut, Thanon Sukhaphatthana, main bus terminal, Ring Road, Soi Chayangkun 21, Thanon Chayangkun (NE Polytechnic College, Tesco-Lotus, Ratchaphat University, Robinsons, Talat Yai (central market), Thung Si Mueang, Ubonrak Thonburi hospital, Thanon Somdet to Thanon Somdet Khae Yak 1. |
11 | Village Welfare Project (km8 on Hwy 212 to Amnat Charoen), Thanon Chayangkun, Ring road (main bus terminal), Big C, Soi Chayangkun 21, Thanon Chayangkun (Ratchawet Hospital, NE Polytechnic college, Tesco-Lotus, Robinsons), Thanon Upalisan, Thanon Phadaeng, Thanon Uparat (Thung Si Mueang), Ave Maria School, to Soi Phanom 7. |
12 | Regional Cancer Centre via Thanon Sinawong, Yasothon Road, Ban Tha Bo Nuea, Thanon sukha-Upatham, Thanon Chanegsanit (psychiatric hospital), clock tower roundabout (Ratchaphat University, SK Mall), Thanon Chaengsanit, Thanon Suriyat, Thanon Chayangkun, Thung Si Mueang, Talat Yai (central market), main post office, Thanon Somdet (Huai Nong reservoir dam wall), Phathom Phittayakhom school in Tambon Pathum. |
13 | Warin market to Wat Nong Pa Phong. (This route is very infrequent) |
There are plenty of tuk-tuks puttering and samlors pedaling around. As always, agree on a fare before you get in, and expect to pay 20-40 baht depending on distance and your haggling skills.
If you're feeling adventurous, try renting a motorbike or a car to get you to one of the many national parks in the province. Jay-Jay Car and Motorcycle Hire provide good, clean vehicles at competitive prices.
Phu Chong Na Yoi National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติภูจอง-นายอย). The park covers a total area of . Its boundary connects to Laos and Cambodia in the area called the Emerald Triangle. 2018-08-18
Pha Taem National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติผาแต้ม). The park features plateaus, undulating hills, and towering cliffs with strange sandstone formations scattered around. The park is covered mostly by deciduous dipterocarp forest and wild flowers can be found on the rock terrace. 2018-08-18
Kaeng Tana National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติแก่งตะนะ). The park features plateaus and undulating hills with deciduous dipterocarp forest and grassland. 2018-08-18
Wat Nong Bua. A very unusual large white angular chedi, said to be a copy of the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodh Gaya, India. Quite stunning in appearance, but the decorations seem rather modern and with reason. The structure was built only in 1957 to commemorate the 2500th anniversary of Buddha's death.
Wat Nong Pah Pong (วัดหนองป่าพง). The forest monastery of the late venerable Ajahn Chah, who is one of the most famous meditation masters in Thailand. About 70 monks live here, including some foreign ones, and there is a small museum and a stupa (or chedi) with the relics of Ajahn Chah to visit. The temple is in a lush forest of Tambon Non Phueng. Monks study and practice Vipassana meditation there. The temple has the Phra Phothiyan Thera Museum that displays the eight requisites and wax model of Luangpu Cha.
Wat Pah Nanachat (International Forest Monastery วัดป่านานาชาติ). A famous forest meditation temple with more than 20 foreign/Western monks from all over the world. If you come before 08:00 you can join in the morning meal, and maybe speak to a monk afterwards. You can take a red songthaew from Warin Chamrab to Wat Pah Nanachat for about 10 baht. Numerous foreign monks study and practice Vipassana meditation here; most of them can speak Thai fluently and pray in Pali.
Wat Thung Si Muang (วัดทุ่งศรีเมือง). Primarily notable for its wooden scripture hall (hor trai), on stilts above a pond. The monastery was built in the reign of Rama III (1824-51) to house a replica of Buddha's footprint. The Buddha's footprint is housed in the ubosot which mirrors art blending between the early Rattanakosin era and that of Vientiane. Another important building in the temple is the Ho Trai, the Hall of Tipitaka scriptures. The wooden hall was built in the pond to protect the Tipitaka from insects.
Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram or Wat Si Thong (วัดศรีอุบลรัตนาราม หรือ วัดศรีทอง). The ubosot houses a sacred Buddha image known as “Phra Kaeo Butsarakham”. The Buddha image, in the attitude of subduing Mara, is carved from topaz into the Chiang Saen style. Each year, in the Songkran Festival, people parade the Buddha image for the people to pay their respects to and bathe. 2018-08-18
Wat Chaeng (วัดแจ้ง). The ubosot, which was only completed 24 years later, is noted for its architecture and rare woodcarving. As a heritage site, the ubosot is well preserved in its original condition. It won a Certificate of Honour from Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn in the "Architect 87" Exhibition. 2018-08-18
Wat Maha Wanaram (วัดมหาวนาราม). It was at first only a "Samnak Song", a monastic residence, for Vipassana monks. According to a stone inscription found behind the principal Buddha statue, Phrachao Yai In Paeng, it was built in 1807. The stucco Buddha statue, in the attitude of subduing Mara, was built in the Laotian style. 2018-08-18
Wat Burapharam (วัดบูรพาราม). The temple once served as a residence for famous meditation monks. Today, the temple houses lifelike stone figures of these monks. 2018-08-18
Wat Supattanaram Worawihan (วัดสุปัฏนารามวรวิหาร). This is the first Dhammayutika temple of the province. The temple has a special ubosot designed by a royal highway engineer Luang Sathit Nimankan (Chuan Supiyaphan). It has a Thai-style roof, Western-style hall and Khmer-style base. 2018-08-18
Wat Phukhao Kaeo (วัดภูเขาแก้ว). The temple has an ubosot delicately decorated with a tiered roof covered with terracotta tiles and supporting a golden spire in the middle. Inside is a high-relief regarding important phrathats, relic-containing pagodas, of Thailand. 2018-08-18
Wat Thung Si Wilai (วัดทุ่งศรีวิไล). The temple houses Luangpho Wiset, the principal Buddha image carved from laterite seated beneath the Naga's hood. The Buddha image from the Dvaravati period is considered a sacred icon for the village. The temple is surrounded by several enclosures of Sima stones that mark the temple’s consecrated boundary. 2018-08-18
Wat Tham Kuha Sawan (วัดถ้ำคูหาสวรรค์). The temple was built by Luangpu Khamkhaning Chulamani to be a place for meditation practice where he also resided. After Luangpu's death his body, which did not decompose, was put in a glass coffin and is considered sacred. 2018-08-18
Wat Phu Anon (วัดภูอานนท์) - The temple has interesting attractions including a rock terrace with large footprints, nature-made stone jar, and cave painting.
Wat Sa Prasan Suk or Wat Ban Na Mueang (วัดสระประสานสุข หรือ วัดบ้านนาเมือง) - The temple houses a special ubosot in the shape of the Suphannahong Royal Barge decorated with mosaics. The abbot is Achan Bunmi.
Primary administrative division