Camarines Sur (dead link: January 2023), often shortened to CamSur, is the largest of the six provinces of the Bicol peninsula. It is rich in nature, history, and culture, from the heritage churches of some small towns, to the smallest commercially-bred fish to the pink and black sand beaches of the Partido region.
While there is little in the way of geographical boundaries, CamSur has many distinctive cultures defined by the local variety of the Bikol language being spoken. A rough division of the province for travel purposes is:
Metro Naga (Naga, Pili, Bombon, Calabanga, Camaligan, Canaman, Magarao, Ocampo) - The capital region, where most of CamSur's population is concentrated. Within the region is the mighty Isarog volcano, and the province's only airport.
Northwest Camarines Sur (Del Gallego, Gainza, Libmanan, Lupi, Pamplona, Pasacao, Ragay, San Fernando, Sipocot, Milaor) - A largely rural area with small towns, and a mix of Tagalog and Bikol speakers.
Partido (Caramoan, Garchitorena, Goa, Lagonoy, Presentacion, Sagñay, San Jose, Siruma, Tigaon, Tinambac) - Encompassing the whole Caramoan Peninsula, it has black sand beaches protected by coral reefs.
Rinconada District (Baao, Balatan, Bato, Buhi, Bula, Iriga, Nabua) - A region bordering Albay, it is known for the Rinconada variety of the Bikol languages, Lake Buhi (and the smallest commercially-bred fish) and Mount Iriga.
Partido and Rinconada regions are considered traditional regions, also marked by welcome arches at the highways. Another way of dividing the province is into a western part and eastern part, which is largely based on the degree of Tagalog influence and the dominant local political families holding positions in Congress, the Villafuertes and the Fuentebellas. There has been a proposal to split the province as a remedy to a long-running political feud between the two.
The Naga region is where a lot of business centers are found. Usually the Naga region is known for rapid urbanization, long history, the Bicol river, mount Isarog and Peñafrancia festival. The Naga area also has Calabanga Port, Camarines Sur watersports complex, Ateneo De Naga, Bangko Central ng Pilipinas, Naga Global Business Park, Magsaysay Avenue, Camaligan River Park, Nordia Sports Complex Canaman, Central Bicol State University of Agriculture, IBM, Concentrix, SM City Naga, Robinsons Naga, S&R Naga and large high rise hotels with the tallest one reaching 20 storey.
The Northwest Camarines region is mostly Tagalog-speaking, laid back and rural, with vast plains and hills in its center. Tourist attractions are mostly in Libmanan, Minalabac and Pasacao. The south portion of the region however is different. Municipalities in the southern part of northwest Camarines Sur are becoming bedroom communities of Naga.
With a population of over 2 million and a land area of about , CamSur is the largest and the most populated of the Bicol provinces. Most of its population is concentrated around Naga, the largest city and commercial center, and the rest on the only other city, Iriga, and the province's many municipalities.
The province is largely flat and dotted with volcanoes like Mount Isarog. Most of Camarines Sur is at the large plain at the center of the Bicol Peninsula. The southwest has Mount Iriga, another volcano, and three lakes, Baao, Bato, and Buhi, all starting with the same name and has lend the name of their respective municipalities. The Partido (or Caramoan Peninsula) has pink or black-sand beaches, rugged terrain, and rainforest.
While CamSur is mostly Bicolano culturally, lingustically and ethnically, some Negrito (Agta) tribes still inhabit the mountains, and Tagalog speakers live near the border with Quezon to the northwest. The Agta were the inhabitants of the province until the first Bikol speakers arrived; now, many of them either live in the forests (especially at Mount Isarog) or have assimilated into the dominant Bicolano culture.
Camarines Sur (along with Camarines Norte) used to be part of a single province. When the Spaniards arrived, they first referred to what is now CamSur as Tierra del Camarines (after the many kamalig or nipa huts), which became part of a larger Partido de Camarines, which would give the common local name of the Caramoan Peninsula. Partido de Camarines was split, soon rejoined as the Ambos Camarines, and during the American era, was again divided into the two present provinces. CamSur's capital used to be Naga (then the city of Nueva Cáceres during Spanish times, after the historic city of the same name in Spain), but has since been moved to Pili to the southeast.
CamSur is home to two major varieties of the Bikol languages: Central Bikol and Rinconada.
Central Bikol, or simply Bikol, the most widely spoken variety of Bikol, is native to the Naga metro area, northwest Camarines Sur, and Partido, and is widely understood throughout the province.
Rinconada Bikol, another major variety, is spoken in the Rinconada District to the southeast, and at the provincial capital at Pili. It is somewhat a blend of southern Tagalog dialects, Waray and Aklanon to the unfamiliar ear, but it has its own alphabet and some sounds not found in most Philippine languages like the schwa (ə), long vowels, and the ɣ (also found in Aklanon, and pronounced similarly to an alternate pronunciation of Spanish g before a, o and u). There are two major Rinconada dialect groups, but there are also dialects in each town, which are not mutually intelligible to each other.
The Agta (Negrito) population had their own languages which are mutually intelligible to the Bikol languages, but have been supplanted by them. Most Agta now speak dialects of Bikol or Rinconada.
Tagalog, usually Tayabasin, is spoken on the border towns to the northwest, and has influenced Bikol spoken in the northwest and Naga.
Albay Bikol, a Bikol variety related to Rinconada in most aspects, is spoken in the eastern parts of the province bordering Albay.
From Manila, Cebgo and PAL Express have two flights a day to Naga Airport (IATA: WNP), at Pili about 10 km east of Naga). The trip takes 45 minutes, and uses turboprop planes.
Philtranco and DLTBCo. runs buses from their Manila terminals to Naga and several small towns throughout CamSur. Philtranco operates both air-conditioned and non-AC ("ordinary" class) buses, while DLTB runs completely on AC buses. Other companies with buses from Manila are Bicol Isarog, Eaglestar Transit, Peñafrancia Tours, Raymond, and Superlines. Fares are , varying by company and travel class, and may be higher during peak season. Restrooms may be available on the bus.
From within Bicol region, there are buses coming from Legazpi, Tabaco, Sorsogon City and Matnog. Most are on smaller companies running non-AC buses, but the are also operators using regular AC buses.
The main highways to CamSur the Maharlika Highway (Route 1/Asian Highway 26), which traverses about 110 km from the boundary with Camarines Norte to Albay, and the Andaya Highway (Route 68), a 93 km two to four-lane highway which connects with Maharlika Highway near the Quezon-Camarines Sur boundary and passes through the rural northwest part of the province. From Albay, an alternate route is the scenic Sagñay-Tiwi Road (Route 630) from Tabaco.
Until the completion of a future extension of South Luzon Expressway (SLEX) from Lucena to the town of San Fernando, it takes around 6-9 hours to drive from Manila to Camarines Sur.
Train service from Manila has been suspended indefinitely (as of December 2017).
From Albay, you can take the daily Bicol Commuter train (#1720) from Legazpi to Naga, but is only available on weekdays. The trains are not as crowded as the buses, but are slower, with the trip taking over 1-2 hours.
The main highway through CamSur is the Maharlika Highway (Route 1/Asian Highway 26), which passes through Naga. Other highways are the Partido Highway (Route 630), which includes a scenic section leading to the "Riviera of the Partido Region" and Baao-Iriga-Nabua Road through the inner parts of the Rinconada District. Andaya Highway links the rural municipalities of northwest CamSur up to the boundary with Quezon Province.
Construction is ongoing for CamSur's first expressway, the Camarines Sur Expressway (CAMSUREX), which will connect the towns of San Fernando and Pili, bypassing Naga. It is planned to connect with the SLEX extension to the province, and another extension to Albay and Sorsogon.
There are some jeepney services between cities and towns, with routes from Naga to Baao, Iriga, Goa, and Sabang port, and from Iriga to Balatan port via Nabua. Naga City has a local jeepney network.
UV Express passenger vans connect Iriga, Sabang port, Nabua, Goa, and Lagonoy with Naga from the Eastbound Van Terminal. There are also services to northwest CamSur from the Westbound Van Terminal in Naga.
Philippine National Railways (PNR) operates the Bicol Commuter train service emanating from Naga, with one daily service to Legazpi (with stops at Pili and Iriga) and two to Sipocot (stopping at Pamplona and Libmanan). Services are available only, however, during weekdays, and the trains are uncomfortable and slower than the bus as they use tracks located further inland from the highway.
Naga City can be easily explored by foot, especially at the downtown, but tricycles and jeepneys are also available. The same can be said on most municipalities.
Tricycles and pedicabs (trisikad or padyak, bicycle rickshaws) are widely available within cities or town centers.
The closest beach to Naga City is located in Pasacao, a primary destination for Nagauenos during the weekend. Pasacao Beach is a very popular beach to the landlocked residents of Naga City.
For those seeking a more isolated places, this would be the Caramoan Peninsula, also known as “Partido”. From Sabang in San Jose, it will take you two hours by boat to Caramoan port, a 30-minute jeep or tricycle ride to the barangay of Bikal on Caramoan's northern coast and from there you must take another boat to visit various beaches and resorts. Gota beach resort is a project of the provincial government and has played host to the shooting of two seasons of Survivor in 2008 and 2009.
Bicolanos are noted for their gastronomic appetite in fiery or chili-hot dishes. Unlike people from other regions in the entire country, a Bicolano can relish every meal which has for its recipe anything spicy.
Here are some of the list of recipes which are notably pure Bicolano.
Gulay na natong (laing) – This Bicolano recipe is made of finely shredded natong or taro leaves flavored with bangut (anak shrimps) or balaw (small crabs). Sometimes ground pork with a little amount of fat is added; for an appetizing aroma, a few pieces of whole native black peppers are added just before removing the cooking vessel from the fire.
Langkang palusag – Jackfruit, bangut, garlic, onion are placed in the coconut milk and brought to a boil then allowed to simmer until the jackfruit is tender. Stirring of the ingredients need not be done.
Bicol Express – Made of balaw, with a little amount of ground pork and small red chilies (siling labuyo). The amount of pepper placed in the recipe depends upon the capacity of the consumer to savor hot and spicy food.
Pinangat – Diced lobster meat mixed with the meat of young coconut (lukadon), lemongrass (tanglad) and ground garlic, diced onions are added. All these are mixed together in coconut milk. Each lump of this mixture is wrapped in two layers of well-wiped, clean taro (gabi GUH-bee) leaves and pairs of these wrapped lumps are tied together with strips of the paklang (skin of taro stalks). All of these paired wrapped lumps of the flattened mixture are cooked in coconut milk just enough to cover all the packages. Bring the milk to a boil, allow it to simmer until the cooked aroma is smelled.
Ginuygoy – Tender taro leaves (natong na piniripit) are cooked in little water, flavored with dinaelan, and when cooked is seasoned with lemon juice.
Inon-on – Round scad (Bikol: sibubog, Tagalog: galunggong) or any saltwater fish cooked with vinegar or lemon juice, garlic, onions with generous amount of oil and as little water as possible.
Ginaring - Appetizing roast skewered mudfish (talusog).
Gulay na bayawas - Ripe guavas (Bikol: bayawas) chopped into small slices and cooked in coconut milk with melted peanut brittle (sangkaka). Santan is cooked from the coconut mil, peanut brittle is melted to bring the right consistency and pili but is added for making it.
Ibos - Sticky rice (Bikol: pulutan) which is allowed to stand for a couple of hours in coconut milk then wrapped in coils of coconut leaves and then cooked. It is usually dipped in chocolate or eaten with santan.
Sinuman (pronounced see-NOOH-mahn) – sticky rice cooked in melted peanut brittle and coconut milk cooked in the same manner as rice is cooked.
Tabog-tabog – The Bicolano version of buchi, a snack similar to mochi, but filled with sweet potato.
Linubak – mashed unripe bananas which are sweetened with scrapings of peanut brittle.
Olog-olog originally pronounced with an H) – small balls of sticky rice flour cooked in boiling water sweeted with peanut brittles.
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