Hauts-de-France (Upper France) (Picard: Heuts-d'Franche) is the northernmost region of France, located to the north of the French capital Paris and situated on the English Channel at the point closest to England. The region also fronts much of the French border with Belgium. The area is sadly known for its central part in the trench warfare of the First World War (1914-1918), perhaps most notoriously the Battle of the Somme, which lasted four and a half months during which more than one million men and women lost their lives. Unsurprisingly, Hauts-de-France hosts a large number of battlefields, war cemeteries and memorials. Less well-known, but still worth your time are the region's many belfries and Gothic churches, and the remnants of France's industrial heartland. Hauts-de-France was created in 2016 by merging Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Picardy.
Destroyed in parts by both world wars, home to heavy industry, and cold by French standards, this is not a major tourist region. Indeed, many who don't know any better view the region as simply an expanse of nothingness to cross on the way to somewhere else. However, those who stop to look closer may find beautiful countryside, fine local foods and beers, and many historical landmarks. War history buffs in particular will be in heaven.
Because of its position between Paris, the Low Countries, and the English Channel, this region has often been the setting for invasions and battles. The two world wars ripped through, leaving a legacy of memorials and mass graves. Notable are the battle-scarred fields of the Somme where French, British, Canadian, Australian, and African soldiers fought the Germans in World War I, and the camp in Compiègne where, during World War II, prisoners were kept while waiting for "transportation to the east".
The current region of Hauts-de-France was created in 2016 after administrative reorganisation grouped Nord-Pas de Calais and Picardy. The latter had been a province dating back to the Middle Ages, and its removal from the map has caused some controversy, with the slogan Touche pas à ma Picardie ! (Hands off my Picardy!) becoming current. The name Hauts-de-France means "heights of France", which refer to the region's northern (high) position on the map, rather than physical height. In fact, this is one of the flattest and most low-lying regions of Europe, an irony not unnoticed by the French press, which has roundly mocked the choice of name.
In common with the rest of the country, the dominant language is French. The local dialects of French (usually known as patois) are Picard in the south and west and the closely-related Ch'ti in the north and east. The latter will be known to anyone who has seen the blockbuster hit film Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis, which is an affectionate and comedic portrayal of the language and culture of the Nord department. In the far north east, along the border with Belgium, there are still some native Dutch speakers, though they speak a dialect called West Flemish, which may be impenetrable if you're more familiar with the Dutch spoken in the Netherlands.
Travelling without knowing French is not a major problem. In general, most local people have at least a basic knowledge of English. They will usually try to communicate with you, being more embarrassed by their own lack of English than annoyed at your lack of French. Anyone in the tourism industry should be proficient in English, as it is often a job requirement. In tourist areas, shopkeepers and restaurateurs are making more of an effort to speak foreign languages and cater to international clients, for example offering menus in English, German and Dutch. There is a huge market for English-speaking tourists mainly because of the location (being right across the water from England and on the way to Paris), and interest (Allied war cemeteries and memorials).
On the Paris-Brussels/London high-speed rail corridor, the region is highly accessible by train.
From London St Pancras, Ebbsfleet and Ashford, most Brussels-bound Eurostar trains stop at Lille (Gare de l'Europe, 50.639444°, 3.075278°. ) and some also stop at Calais (Fréthun, 50.901944°, 1.811944°. ). The journey to Lille from Brussels on a Thalys train takes 30 min.
Travellers coming from Paris Gare du Nord have a choice between the high-speed TGV, stopping at Gare TGV Haute-Picardie, 49.859204°, 2.832244°. , Arras and Lille (Gare de Flandres), and the slower Intercités service, which is more useful for the western and coastal parts of the region.
Don't go to Haute-Picardie without assured onward transport; its isolated location has inspired the nickname gare des betteraves ("beetroot station").
Driving from Paris is straightforward; take the A1 and your wallet, and expect to fork out at least €25 for the toll. Motorists from Belgium have it even easier, with physical proximity and the Schengen Agreement both playing their part. Drivers from Britain can load their cars onto a Eurotunnel train in Folkestone, and drive off in Calais 35 minutes later. Alternatively, there are ferry crossings (see below). The A26 is the famous Autoroute des Anglais, which conveys traffic from the ferries and tunnel south into France and the rest of Europe.
For more detail on the region's autoroute system, see Get around below.
Calais is connected to Dover in England by car and passenger ferry services operated by P&O Ferries and DFDS Seaways. DFDS also operate ferries between Dover and Dunkirk. The crossings take a relaxed 1 hr 30 min, and you get to enjoy a view of Britain, France and Belgium all at the same time.
There are two small international airports in the region, though both are targeted at the domestic market.
Failing this, Paris Charles de Gaulle and Brussels are much larger international airports receiving flights from all over the world, including North America. Both are within easy reach of the region, thanks to high-speed rail.
The TGV provides a local high-speed service from Lille, south to Arras and Picardy, and north-west to Calais. The rest of the regional network is provided by TER Hauts-de-France. The entire system is nationalised under the SNCF, so tickets and schedules are easily synchronised.
Hauts-de-France is well-served by motorways (autoroutes), with the following being the most useful:
Some of the autoroutes are free, notably the A1 and others around Lille, and the A16 between Boulogne and Belgium. The rest of the network is tolled, operated by the private company SANEF. Away from built up areas, you'll find the roads of northern France very quiet indeed, with far-reaching views over desolate fields.
See also: French cuisine
The dish of the region has to be moules frites - a steaming bucket of mussels served with mountains of fries - glorious! Often associated with neighbouring Belgium, it's no surprise they're adored in Hauts-de-France too. The most common variant is moules marinières, which sees the mussels steamed in a white wine, shallot and butter sauce, seasoned with parsley, pepper and garlic. This dish has become so popular, it has spread around France and been given dozens of regional makeovers, trading marinière sauce for cream in Normandy, and rich tomatoes and Mediterranean vegetables in the Provence. But the original recipe is best; perfect for sharing, but so moreish you may not want to.
Another classic dish is the ficelle picarde, an oblong savoury pancake stuffed with ham, emmental or gruyère cheese and mushrooms. Treated as comfort food, you will find it on the menu in restaurants and people's homes.
While you're here, summon your courage and hold your nose to try maroilles, a stinky cows' milk cheese produced in the region. It is an acquired taste, but once done so you can truly say you have experienced the north of France. Besides, it has been made since the 10th century, and was a favourite of four kings of France — if it was good enough for them, why not you? In restaurants, it is served in a chicory salad (often labelled something like salade du Ch'ti), or else on toast, and in bakeries look out for it in tarts.
Unlike most of France, this area is better known for its beer than wine. Luckily the beer is also amazingly cheap compared to certain other places in Europe. A particular local favourite is "Bière de garde," a type of French pale ale. Other good ones to try are 3 Monts and anything from Brasserie de Clerck. A 1L bottle, which looks like a wine bottle, complete with a cork in it, costs only €2 in a Lille supermarket.
Unlike many former industrial regions in western countries, the Hauts-de-France are not dangerous, despite being deeply marred by socio-economic issues caused by the fall of the region's industries. Tourists should feel safe by taking the basic precautions; the vast majority of tourist sites are indeed very safe.
Some areas in and around Lille, Lens, and Valenciennes have had their share of problems over the years, though they tend to be blown out of proportion and don't affect outsiders too much.
Nowadays many people tend to fear going to Calais due to the migrant crisis. The migrants tend to stick to roads near the Channel Tunnel, where there are shantytowns of tents and makeshift shelters, and rarely venture into the city. Travellers using the Channel Tunnel and particularly those driving vehicles with non-French registration plates are advised to check their vehicle thoroughly before entering the Eurotunnel terminal, as migrants have been known to conceal themselves within vehicles that look like they're bound for Britain in an attempt to enter the country illegally.