Oulanka National Park is a large national park in Northern Finland, near the border with Russia. It is one of the most popular national parks in Finland, despite its relatively remote location. The 80 km Karhunkierros trail through the park (and to Ruka) is legendary and very popular.
Oulanka has several quite large rivers, the most important being the Oulanka river. The altitude differences are small, but there are some rocks and small hills above the rivers, which offer great views.
The national park lies at the Arctic circle, and the weather here is such. Winters are long and cold, with the last snow disappearing in June. Average maximum snow depth is 85 cm, minimum recorded temperature -46 °C. There might also be too much water in the rivers in spring, which will make some parts of the trail hard to pass. In summer, the weather is reasonable and the trails are easily passable. As such, summer is the best time to hike, but is also possible to go hike in late spring (end of May), where you will have the beautiful melting landscape just for yourself, or in early to mid autumn, when the mosquitoes are gone and the leaves are changing colours. Nights do not really take place here from May to August, while days are extremely short around December.
Getting in by car is easy, there are good roads leading to the starting points of all hiking trails, such as Ruka, Oulanka Visitor Centre, Hautajärvi or Juuma. It is possible to park for free at these places. The problem is that these places are (same as the park) very far from all main Finnish cities, which will make driving costly and tiring. Also, most of the hiking trails are from point A to B, so you will most likely have to use a bus or taxi to get back to your car.
The national park is far from transportation hubs. To get to Kuusamo from southern Finland, the most comfortable option is an overnight train to Oulu or Kemijärvi and a coach onwards to Kuusamo (€26.50, €20 if you manage to find online discount fares). From Kuusamo there is (sparse) transport to Ruka, the visitor centre and some trailheads. As Ruka is a ski resort, there may also be dedicated transport to there, at least in winter. From Ruka you can hike Karhunkierros to Oulanka. There is helpful English speaking staff at the Kuusamo bus station.
Oulanka is on the Kuusamo–Salla road (road 950); coming from Kemijärvi you might be able to transfer from a bus to Kuusamo to a bus to Salla. The Ristikallio and Hautajärvi trailheads are by this road, but the visitor centre and Juuma are 13 km away by minor roads (junction at Käylä).
There is a dial-a-ride service available from Ruka to Oulangan luontokeskus and Kiutaköngäs. It can be ordered using the Matkahuolto Trip Planner and Tickets mobile app. The passenger can pick up the ride up to five days. The passenger can check availability at any time, and secure the ride as well as the seat only by ordering transportation. The app always shows the final binding price before confirming the order.
Getting to the trailheads of Karhunkierros by bus is possible. From Kuusamo, there are local buses called "Karhunkierros bus" from Kuusamo bus station to Hautajärvi, Ruka and Juuma in June–August. Outside of this period, the northernmost point which you can get to by bus is the Ristikallio parking area 📍. From Ristikallio you can start a shorter version of the Karhunkierros trail. In summer, the bus goes all the way to Hautajärvi, where the full Karhunkieros trail starts. From there, hike to the first or second hut.
Timetables for trains at vr.fi, for coaches at matkahuolto.fi, for the local buses ruka.fi).
Coaches between Salla and Kuusamo should take you to Hautajärvi (where the UKK trail comes in from Salla) and Ristikallio parking area, check whether there are any services (from the Sallatunturi ski resort to the Kuusamo airport or otherwise).
If you get stuck at Kuusamo bus station, you can always get a taxi. The best way to do this, is to ask at the bus station and they will get you one. It is also wise to book one for the return, as there is not always cell signal in the park. You can book it at Kuusamo bus station or Oulanka visitor centre. There are big taxis available (often the same vehicle as the bus), which are able to fit a bigger group inside. One taxi company is Ruka-Kuusamo taxi ([tel:+35810084200 +358 100-84200]). You can save money on taxi by only taking it to Ruka and going from Ruka to Kuusamo by bus.
Kuusamo has an airport with some flights from the rest of Finland, mostly Helsinki. From every flight, there is an airport bus going to Salla, but it can also drop you off at many places from which you can start a hike in the park. You can find the bus timetable here.
No entrance or hiking fees. The proper camping grounds have fees, while most camping and lodging is free.
Most of the area near the visitor centre and the Karhunkierros trail in general has restrictions. Hiking along trails, using the infrastructure and camping at designated places in the national park is allowed and free. Entry to the border zone (all year) and to the restricted areas of Juuman vuomat (Apr–Dec), Pähkänäs (Apr–15 Aug) and Korvasvaara (Apr–Dec; by the border, near Liikasenvaara) requires a specific permit.
Outside restricted areas you are free to walk ski, paddle and row as you like. Especially in popular areas, keep to existing paths when possible. Biking is restricted to certain routes. Camping is still restricted.
Picking edible mushrooms and berries is allowed. Taking or harming other plants, animals (vertebrates) or soil is forbidden.
Campfires are allowed at designated places, given no wildfire warnings (broadcast in most weather reports) are in effect. Use firewood sparingly. Cooking shelters with chimneys and camping stoves can be used also during wildfire warnings, with due care.
Some fishing is free, but not all methods, not in all waters, and there are restrictions on species and sizes. Check if relevant.
Drone flying requires a permit.
Paper maps should be available in major book and outdoor stores, in the visitor centre, in Customer Service Karhuntassu in Kuusamo and probably at the tourist information in Kuusamo and at Ruka info. They can also be bought on the net from Karttakeskus and delivered by mail (check whether addresses abroad are serviced). There are several map alternatives, with Karhunkierros Trail Waterproof Outdoor Map 1:50,000/1:25,000 probably the best, if it covers the area of your visit and your interests.
Metsähallitus has an online map, with trails and services marked. Also OpenStreetMap covers the area, and there are numerous apps to use that map. The best of these seems to be mapy.cz, which offers to download maps for offline mode and where the trails are very visibly marked (do not count on having 3G coverage on the trail!). All the trails and huts can be found in the Oulanka brouchure, but this is rather a scheme than a real map.
Hiking is the main option to get anywhere in the park except the starting points of the hiking trails. There is one main hiking trail, (Iso) Karhunkierros, leading 80 km from Hautajärvi to Ruka, and numerous branch trails, leading to starting points on the road. There are also some trails isolated from Karhunkierros, mostly day trip trails.
The 17-km Keroharju route leads through the backwoods from Niitselysjärvi 📍 (trailhead on Niitselyksentie, junction at Hautajärvi, 12 km away) to Harjulampi 📍 near Liikasenvaara (9 km farther along Liikasenvaarantie from the visitor centre, then 3.5 km along minor roads).
The border zone is off limits, and there are restricted areas at Korvasvaara and Juuma. As the park is popular, staying on trails is recommended also elsewhere, unless you go somewhere where no trails lead, and know you can manage on your own in the wilderness.
There are good road to the Oulanka visitor centre and the main trailheads, and smaller roads to some lesser ones. Some roads do pass through the park, but they are not built to serve visitors.
In winter, the frozen Oulanka river which runs though the park can be used as a road for snowmobiles. Note ice safety.
You can get maps and some souvenirs at the visitor centre. There are no proper shops in the national park. You can find some supermarkets in Ruka or Kuusamo. There should be kiosks with some provisions at Oulanka Camping Ground and at Juuma Retki-Etappi, but these seem to be available only during summer.
There is a restaurant at Oulanka visitor centre, and numerous restaurants in Ruka, which is however some distance from the park. It should be possible to buy provisions in the kiosks in summer, which means carrying food for two days should be enough on Karhunkierros, but check. Otherwise you have to bring all the supplies with you. It is allowed to pick berries and mushrooms in the park, but it not allowed to fish or hunt animals without permission. It is possible to get fishing permits on this website or buy them at the visitor centre in person.
If hiking for a longer time, water presents an issue. Water from the rivers should not be drunk directly but rather boiled or filtered.
There are numerous hotels in Ruka, a winter resort at the southern end of Karhukierros trail, but there are no hotels north of it or in the park itself.
There are cabins at the Oulanka National Park Camping Ground (4 persons, €50/day; linen €3/person) and in the villages.
There are open wilderness huts along the whole Karhunkierros trail. These are free and maintained by the park staff, including supplying them with firewood (there are fireplaces in the huts). You will have to use your own sleeping bag and mattress when using these. There is a quite a lot of space in them, but they might still get full during the summer. In such case, you will have to go to the next one, sleep outside, or (the least Finnish way to do) ask the people inside to squeeze a bit – the general rule about latecomers' right to the facilities does not work well here, as many of the hikers are ignorant. Come prepared with a tent or walk fast to be in the hut first. There are also Lapp Huts, a pyramid-like wooden structures with fireplace in middle of them, but sleeping in these is not very comfortable. There are also a few reservable wilderness huts, which are locked. For these you have to reserve a bed, pay and ask for a key at the Oulanka visitor centre. Last type of lodging are lean-to shelters, which only offer basic protection against wind, snow and rain.
Camping is possible next to wilderness huts, and doing so might be necessary in season. There is also a proper camping ground in the middle of the park.
Wild camping is not permitted.
See also: Cold weather
There are trails available in this park all year long, which might present a danger for the unprepared traveller. Winter hikes require that somebody in the company has enough experience of hiking in cold weather, and that all of you prepare yourselves. If you go off season you should at least have a sleeping bag with "comfort" temperature well below freezing (well below -20°C in midwinter unless you are sure you will reach a wilderness hut), a good hiking mattress (or two) and several layers of clothing covering the whole body. Ankle boots are an important thing, and these should be at least partially water resistant, because there is a lot of water everywhere and you do not want to walk with your feet wet (although you can dry your shoes at every wilderness hut).
Some parts of the trail are far away from any road, and getting help there might be difficult and take considerable time. There are places without phone coverage, especially in the valleys.